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Silent Running Dewey#1. 3D Studio Max & 3D Printed Adventures. ( Kind of Scratch Build )


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13 hours ago, giemme said:

Excellent weathering, Johnny  Robot! :clap: :D

 

Ciao 

Thanks G! Much appreciated. 😎

11 hours ago, 81-er said:

Great work, Johnny, he's looking thoroughly well worn now!

 

Is this the previous mancave that you're moving back to, or a different room entirely? Either way, good luck!

 

James

Thanks James, I’m happy with the look now. It’s a totally new room.  Top of the house again but at the back this time. 😍

7 hours ago, hendie said:

top class stains Johnny.  Weathering par excellence.

Thanks Alan. Really enjoying having the freedom to weather my heart out. 😍⛈🌤

1 hour ago, Pete in Lincs said:

Fabulous look. I think the legs are about right now. Slightly dusty is better than too dusty or not dusty enough.

As for that room, I blame that Dalek I can see in there. :dalek1:

Eek! I did a bit more to the legs. (See the next post) hope you approve. 😇 I love my old Dalek. He’s a Sevans one. It’s possible I might build him again but part of me wants to leave him be. 🐝

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Ok so the grotto is set up for work and….. not work. 🤩🥸

Back to back school desks.

52255719507_e62f887fd0_b.jpg

And the other side.

52255720342_decfd21448_b.jpg

I’ve just fitted some new lights instead of that ’orrid chintzy one that I hobbled together from old scrap bits years ago. 
I’ll post a pic next time. 💡💡💡

Right where were we. Legs!!🦵

I did the same treatment of leaky oil which seems to have kicked back the dust. 😍

52255719877_082a49304e_b.jpg

And the other.

52255719867_86f285e0cc_b.jpg

And a bit of an action shot. 

52256710708_ca217e5cde_b.jpg

A friend shared this the other day.

Which really resonated as I was at that point saving plants from my daughters room while she’s away with explorers. 
This little fella was dead as a door nail.

52256684271_99842364a6_b.jpg

Now!!!😇🌱🌿🍃

Any road up. Next steps for Dewey. The arm does articulate but try as I might I couldn’t make it rigid enough to be moveable regardless of everyone’s wonderful suggestions.

52256710213_6d688a5c5e_b.jpg

So I made the executive decision to use GG and have it posed.

52257178120_64898a2354_b.jpg

It’ll look a bit like this but the other way up. 🤩

Next the lamp.

52256710283_69c0e65a1e_b.jpg

looks good but I have decided to use some BMF to add some shiny.

52256684326_caa5055b93_b.jpg

I Think that’s better. 😇😀

Now time for another first. Translucent resin. 

52255720512_7fa65e397b_b.jpg

just gotta build the cover.

a few mins prodding the mouse and this popped out.

52257179335_62e48e8f20_b.jpg

I decided to use @Fritag’s method of making the supports in Max.

52255720692_05690163f9_b.jpg 52256967649_155853d92a_b.jpg

Thinking about it it would never have worked as it needed supports under the main canopy but regardless I got my first failed print. 😩 The supports I think we’re just too thin. I decided to go back to what I know and use Chitu box to support.

 

Now. What happened next I didn’t expect.

the prints worked fine BUT see through. Not really. 😩

52255720442_b6f0e7810b_b.jpg

This one has a bit of a bad print on it. I did a few on the same plate but still you can see it’s opaqueness. 
I wasn’t sure if it was because it was printed at an angle, or the text, or something else, so I made a flat one and printed straight onto the bed. Now that one turned out more see through. 
 

Hmmmmm.

 

I tried sanding alas no joy. The prints were better before I washed and cured but you just have to wash and cure.

i did one last thing and it kind of worked. 
pledge! 
I dipped both versions on pledge and let them dry. Did this twice and we have this.

The one with writing.

52255720302_bded14ce6d_b.jpg

And the one without.

52256711103_6e30f9231e_b.jpg

Now neither are perfect and I can hear Bill saying I should plunge one but I really wanted this to be fully printed. 
maybe I should? 
Here’s a dry fit of the clearer one.

52257178695_990eea0607_b.jpg

And the more detailed but more opaque.

52256710773_9bb7b64b90_b.jpg

I like the latter so if anyone has any smart ideas how to print clear resin more … err. clear. Pipe up. I’ll dwell on it while I finish off the other bits and bobs. 


Time for Only Murders in the building!!

Gotta dash. 
 

More soon.

 

Take it easy my dudes.

 

Johnny. 🤖🖤

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I'm supposed to be working now so just a very quick drive by and comment.

1st thing... what are your print settings and cure time.

How do the parts look straight out of the vat before curing?

Did you give the resin a really good shake before pouring it in to the vat?

 

I'm not sure I have any photos available but from memory I was still quite impressed with clear printed parts. I'll check to see if I have any examples to share later

 

I'm not sure whether this is just an old wife's tale or not, but have heard that you can reduce yellowing by curing the parts while underwater?

Maybe try printing with shorter exposure times (deliberate undercure) then submerge them for a final cure?

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19 minutes ago, hendie said:

I'm supposed to be working now so just a very quick drive by and comment.

Thanks. Appreciated. 😀

19 minutes ago, hendie said:

1st thing... what are your print settings and cure time.

Same as regular. 🤔

20 minutes ago, hendie said:

How do the parts look straight out of the vat before curing?

Better but not great.

21 minutes ago, hendie said:

Did you give the resin a really good shake before pouring it in to the vat?

yeah. Just in case. The liquid resin was super clear. 

 

21 minutes ago, hendie said:

I'm not sure whether this is just an old wife's tale or not, but have heard that you can reduce yellowing by curing the parts while underwater?

Ooh I heard that too and forgot about it. 🤔

 

22 minutes ago, hendie said:

Maybe try printing with shorter exposure times (deliberate undercure) then submerge them for a final cure?

Hmmmmm worth a shot. 🤗

 

 Thanks again.😇😇😇

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You might try dipping it in Klear acrylic floor wax if it is the surface that is causing the opaqueness, but given that it's translucent rather than transparent resin, that might not improve things much. At any rate, I think the lens suits the wear and tear that the model shows generally....

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Johnny, from I've read so far there are a few things to try, and/or avoid.

Reduce your exposure time.

IPA can exacerbate the yellowing if left in it for too long. I used a product called Green Stuff (and ultrasonic bath) when using clear resin for washing. If using IPA then keep the wash to a minimum.

Use the minimum UV post cure you can get away with - you may need to run some trials on that. Maybe print 6 or 7 parts then put 1 under UV to see how long it takes to yellow, then back off from there for the next piece and so on?

Finally, I've read that some folks are deliberately under curing, then coating the piece with a UV resistant gloss coat. (Mr Color do a UV resistant gloss coat).

 

 

 

 

 

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2 hours ago, xebec said:

You might try dipping it in Klear acrylic floor wax if it is the surface that is causing the opaqueness, but given that it's translucent rather than transparent resin, that might not improve things much. At any rate, I think the lens suits the wear and tear that the model shows generally....

I did do it in Klear. It’s flash floor polish but the same stuff and it did make it better. I can’t find a different Elegoo transparent resin. Only translucent. ? Are there two different types?  I tend to agree about the wear but I’m still going to try and get it a little clearer. Thanks for the help.

 

 John

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17 minutes ago, hendie said:

Johnny, from I've read so far there are a few things to try, and/or avoid.

Reduce your exposure time.

IPA can exacerbate the yellowing if left in it for too long. I used a product called Green Stuff (and ultrasonic bath) when using clear resin for washing. If using IPA then keep the wash to a minimum.

Use the minimum UV post cure you can get away with - you may need to run some trials on that. Maybe print 6 or 7 parts then put 1 under UV to see how long it takes to yellow, then back off from there for the next piece and so on?

Finally, I've read that some folks are deliberately under curing, then coating the piece with a UV resistant gloss coat. (Mr Color do a UV resistant gloss coat).

 

 

 

 

 

Thanks Alan. I have e re built the light a little thicker and without the ridges to see what that gives me, it was really thin and I don’t think it was doing it any favours.  I have dropped the exposure time too.  Fingers crossed for the morning.

 

 Thanks for the help. 🤩

 

 Johnny

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Can't help with the 3D printing, but I have to say that the weathering on this little guy is outstanding!  Like the new grotto too.  I worked for a little over 2 years in the same room as my model desk and it was sheer agony. :P

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52 minutes ago, The Spadgent said:

I did do it in Klear. It’s flash floor polish but the same stuff and it did make it better. I can’t find a different Elegoo transparent resin. Only translucent. ? Are there two different types?  I tend to agree about the wear but I’m still going to try and get it a little clearer. Thanks for the help.

 

 John

Ah, I missed that part....my mistake. I know several companies make  resin they list as transparent- anycubic for example- but I couldn't tell you if it would come out any more transparent than what you have there. I think if you really want a clear printed part, in the end you'll probably need to sand and polish. 

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damn it!!!!

Printed at a lower exposure. 1.5sec and I got this this morning.

52259987456_b3a7375325_b.jpg

Not bad. 
dipped in ipa for 3sec 2 sec 1 sec and none. Just to see what happened.

the longer time the more cloudy. ( no pic 😩)

 

decided to cure on the window sill, then remembered about the water trick.

 

submerged all in water, put the bins out to get ready for work, came back and.

 

52259017087_2a027e87b6_b.jpg

 
what the hell????? 😩😩😩😩😩😩

 

 

so printing more as we speak. 🙈🙈🙈🙈😢😢🙉🙉🙉

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ouch.  The lower exposure time has certainly made a difference judging by those photos so I think you're heading in the right direction.

I got it wrong, it wasn't Green Stuff, it was an all purpose cleaner called Simple Green that I used to clean the parts. (from Amazon). I could leave it in that stuff for a while with no yellowing. I usually ran the parts in the ultrasonic bath for 10 minutes or so to clean off the excess gunk.

043318130229.jpg?vkey=fhndap4cXrr1RaM1Gj

 

Your 3s, 2s, & 1s seem very short times for cleaning.  I wonder if residue on the parts was (partly) responsible for that frosting after sunlight?

 

Do you have one of those UV pens available?   I wonder if hitting it with some high(er) powered UV for a shorter time would be of benefit.

I think coating the parts with a UV resistant clear coat is part of the answer.  You just have to figure out how to get the parts in a cured enough state without yellowing. 

As an FYI, I've found that parts that have not had any postcuring continue to shrink and eventually start splitting after some weeks/months so I believe it is important not to skip the post cure step.     

 

please continue the trailblazing adventure Johnny - we're all going to benefit from your hard work! 

 

 

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Something that might be worth a try. I just did a translucent stand for a GB recently of a water wave that I printed in 2 parts. there was a definite gap between the two when glued together. I had just gotten a UV flashlight and tried filling the gap with the clear resin and using the handheld UV light to cure the seam. 2 seconds per section. worked great but where I had filled the gap the resin cured absolutely clear just needed to clean the excess residue off with a cotton bud and IPA and it still remained clear. Don't know if this will be of any help.

Here's a pick

52248359460_290c8c3402_c.jpg

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18 hours ago, opus999 said:

Can't help with the 3D printing, but I have to say that the weathering on this little guy is outstanding!  Like the new grotto too.  I worked for a little over 2 years in the same room as my model desk and it was sheer agony. :P

Thanks. I have worked at home for about two and a half years now so I can resist. (A little) 😉

18 hours ago, xebec said:

Ah, I missed that part....my mistake. I know several companies make  resin they list as transparent- anycubic for example- but I couldn't tell you if it would come out any more transparent than what you have there. I think if you really want a clear printed part, in the end you'll probably need to sand and polish. 

Sanding and polishing is fine if your shape is that way inclined. I wouldn’t like to sand and polish the inside of this lamp cover. 😩 we’ll get there.

11 hours ago, giemme said:

Legs looking spot on now, IMO :clap: :clap: 

 

Ciao

Thanks G. Just gotta get one over on this clear resin CrAzy. 😉

6 hours ago, hendie said:

ouch.  The lower exposure time has certainly made a difference judging by those photos so I think you're heading in the right direction.

I got it wrong, it wasn't Green Stuff, it was an all purpose cleaner called Simple Green that I used to clean the parts. (from Amazon). I could leave it in that stuff for a while with no yellowing. I usually ran the parts in the ultrasonic bath for 10 minutes or so to clean off the excess gunk.

043318130229.jpg?vkey=fhndap4cXrr1RaM1Gj

 

Your 3s, 2s, & 1s seem very short times for cleaning.  I wonder if residue on the parts was (partly) responsible for that frosting after sunlight?

 

Do you have one of those UV pens available?   I wonder if hitting it with some high(er) powered UV for a shorter time would be of benefit.

I think coating the parts with a UV resistant clear coat is part of the answer.  You just have to figure out how to get the parts in a cured enough state without yellowing. 

As an FYI, I've found that parts that have not had any postcuring continue to shrink and eventually start splitting after some weeks/months so I believe it is important not to skip the post cure step.     

 

please continue the trailblazing adventure Johnny - we're all going to benefit from your hard work! 

 

 

Thanks for the info Alan. The ipa I think is the whole reason for the frosting. The longer it was in the more opaque it got. The water was the killer. Couldn’t belive it. 
btw. Post curing? Not sure what that is. 

5 hours ago, LorenSharp said:

Something that might be worth a try. I just did a translucent stand for a GB recently of a water wave that I printed in 2 parts. there was a definite gap between the two when glued together. I had just gotten a UV flashlight and tried filling the gap with the clear resin and using the handheld UV light to cure the seam. 2 seconds per section. worked great but where I had filled the gap the resin cured absolutely clear just needed to clean the excess residue off with a cotton bud and IPA and it still remained clear. Don't know if this will be of any help.

Here's a pick

52248359460_290c8c3402_c.jpg

Yes I think I just found a similar thing. I’ll post up my findings. Thanks for sharing.

 

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Blimey! What a day. Life, work, parenting and now this BS. I need a holiday. 🤪

Be boring other wise though eh. 😉

 

Right here we are. Printed again.

52261083323_6ac4662b12_b.jpg

Clear although a little yellow. I can live with that.  I decided that I would clip the base off and use that as a test in the IPA. Just a dip. And it instantly clouded. I tried a dipped bud in some IPA to clean off excess from a lamp mould and that started going cloudy too. 🤔

I decided to use a bud dipped in resin to lightly coat the lamp. It went clear again. 🤔🤔🤔

so.

I decided to sack off the ipa. Let them drip dry then did some cure tests in the Mercury.10sec, 30sec, 1 min. And not at all but left on the sunny sill.

52260095647_8458d9578c_b.jpg

They were in different states of cured but looked better than anything this far.

🤩 here is the one that is dry to the touch that cured for 1min in the Mercury and spend a day on the sill.

52261340709_57337e8047_b.jpg

Now. The best of the water spoiled ones I did a test with. I remember Gemma had some frosted festoon lights in the garden that I fixed with Tamiya ts13. Coated and they went clear. 

52261066111_4e3d7fcb69_b.jpg

so this got a spray with top coat and….

52260095692_de5c9bec01_b.jpg

Not as good as the others but lots better. 
🤔🤔🤔🤔🤔🤔

so I sprayed one of the better ones with a gloss coat to see what happened.

52261066116_38fd858c91_b.jpg

This was the one I coated in resin with a cotton bud.  You can see the blobs but it’s pretty clear. 😎

i think I’ll see what happens to the one I’m thinking of using. Maybe if I lowered the exposure time to 1 sec I’d get no yellow at all. Might give it a try.

 

ooooh things are never easy.

 

 Forging ahead. 😶🌫️

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2 hours ago, The Spadgent said:

Post curing? Not sure what that is. 

 

After the parts come out of the vat depending upon your exposure times they may not be fully cured.  

I used to use a UV lamp (for curing nails!) to complete the cure cycle - that's what I term post cure.

 I found that nail lamp had a tendency to warp parts due to the heat generated so I stopped using it and used daylight instead. However, depending upon part shape, wall thickness etc. sunlight can still warp parts too. Now I use a lightsaber ( as Tony called it) to do my post curing until I can smugglebuy an elegoo wash and cure station.

 

By accident I found something interesting - I always print more than I need to compensate for my cack handedness and had a bunch of parts lying around that I hadn't bothered to postcure.. after some time (many weeks or more) I found that some of the parts had started to develop cracks. My hypothesis is that the resin was not fully cured and continued to shrink and warp to a point where some of the weaker molecular bonds gave way leading to the development of cracks.

I also found that even after curing the parts continue to shrink to some degree. The amount of shrink will depend a lot on part geometry and wall thickness as well as some other factors.  For example, on my Pegasus build when the window frames were first printed I got my dimensions wrong and they were just slightly oversized and wouldn't fit into the window opening without some flexing and distortion. A few days later I went to fit them again to try and measure how much I had to reduce them by and found that they fitted perfectly!

Likewise with the wheels I just printed for the Man from UNCLE car - they were a nice snug fit in the tire but a week or so has now passed and I noticed last night that they are now a loose fit.  

 

A word of caution if I may. I've read a post or two where some users have reported parts "dissolving" after some length of time.  I read one just the other day where the user reported a print started dissolving after nearly two years. They all seem to put it down to uncured resin left inside the part which eventually starts to break down the surrounding cured resin.  I can't say I've experienced this myself but I always try and ensure parts are fully cured, and avoid having cavities that can't be cleaned out post printing.

 

 

Phew... to your current dilemma though - it looks like you're on the right path to getting quality clear parts. Keep trailblazing - I'm right behind you!

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On 03/08/2022 at 22:43, hendie said:

 

After the parts come out of the vat depending upon your exposure times they may not be fully cured.  

I used to use a UV lamp (for curing nails!) to complete the cure cycle - that's what I term post cure.

 I found that nail lamp had a tendency to warp parts due to the heat generated so I stopped using it and used daylight instead. However, depending upon part shape, wall thickness etc. sunlight can still warp parts too. Now I use a lightsaber ( as Tony called it) to do my post curing until I can smugglebuy an elegoo wash and cure station.

 

By accident I found something interesting - I always print more than I need to compensate for my cack handedness and had a bunch of parts lying around that I hadn't bothered to postcure.. after some time (many weeks or more) I found that some of the parts had started to develop cracks. My hypothesis is that the resin was not fully cured and continued to shrink and warp to a point where some of the weaker molecular bonds gave way leading to the development of cracks.

I also found that even after curing the parts continue to shrink to some degree. The amount of shrink will depend a lot on part geometry and wall thickness as well as some other factors.  For example, on my Pegasus build when the window frames were first printed I got my dimensions wrong and they were just slightly oversized and wouldn't fit into the window opening without some flexing and distortion. A few days later I went to fit them again to try and measure how much I had to reduce them by and found that they fitted perfectly!

Likewise with the wheels I just printed for the Man from UNCLE car - they were a nice snug fit in the tire but a week or so has now passed and I noticed last night that they are now a loose fit.  

 

A word of caution if I may. I've read a post or two where some users have reported parts "dissolving" after some length of time.  I read one just the other day where the user reported a print started dissolving after nearly two years. They all seem to put it down to uncured resin left inside the part which eventually starts to break down the surrounding cured resin.  I can't say I've experienced this myself but I always try and ensure parts are fully cured, and avoid having cavities that can't be cleaned out post printing.

 

 

Phew... to your current dilemma though - it looks like you're on the right path to getting quality clear parts. Keep trailblazing - I'm right behind you!

Gotcha!!! Thanks Alan. You sir are the true trailblazer. I am simply throwing stuff at the wall and seeing what sticks. 🤪😉

 

 Strangely I have had a bit of a Victor Frankenstein moment tonight. Based around what @LorenSharp posted earlier. I decided to give that idea a go with an old brush on an old print and got some very interesting results. 
 I’m doing more tests.

note to self 1.25 seconds exposure time is not enough. 😩

52265678986_76a6903610_b.jpg

 

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3 minutes ago, The Spadgent said:

Gotcha!!! Thanks Alan. You sir are the true trailblazer. I am simply throwing stuff at the wall and seeing what sticks. 🤪😉

 

 Strangely I have had a bit of a Victor Frankenstein moment tonight. Based around what @LorenSharp posted earlier. I decided to give that idea a go with an old brush on an old print and got some very interesting results. 
 I’m doing more tests.

note to self 1.25 seconds exposure time is not enough. 😩

52265678986_76a6903610_b.jpg

 

I'd recommend 1.5-1.8 sec. Now the UV torch I found on Amazon for about 10US. Using that, just did a 2 count waving it about 5cm above the part. Don't know if that would be of any help. Also used a disposable 3ml pipette to apply the resin to fill the gap.

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19 hours ago, LorenSharp said:

I'd recommend 1.5-1.8 sec. Now the UV torch I found on Amazon for about 10US. Using that, just did a 2 count waving it about 5cm above the part. Don't know if that would be of any help. Also used a disposable 3ml pipette to apply the resin to fill the gap.

I had started printing before reading this and I had gone with 1.75sec so in the middle. 😇 The 2 second cure sounds rather short. Maybe the “zapper” thing is more intense than the Mercury dry station. I’ll do some tests but will do one at 2 seconds to see. Thanks for your help. 😇🤩

 

 Johnny

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I was doing tests last night and I did make a post. Alas the dreaded “This could not be posted” happened then the “500 error” thing . then!!! When I went to re post I deleted what I had written so. bottom! I went to bed. 🤣 so I shall try again today.

 The fourteen!!!

52266194669_0cf7481f1c_b.jpg

This set has a newly modelled main section that is more rounded using the old ribbed embossed section and a thinner mould overall. 0.5mm.

It was set at an exposure of 1.75sec as mentioned in the previous post. And I think these are the best prints yet. 😍

Darting around the cave like Peter Cushing in a hammer Frankenstein I was testing, dipping, washing curing. All in the search for the elusive clear parts. 

52265932176_5675e3bc98_b.jpg

I have done lots of tests and almost by accident I think I may have found the solution. 
 

I need to put in a bit more time today to find out. The cave seems to be full of malformed semi transparent bits of resin!!!! “It’s alive!! Allivvve!!!”  
 

 

probably. 😅

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47 minutes ago, The Spadgent said:

I had started printing before reading this and I had gone with 1.75sec so in the middle. 😇 The 2 second cure sounds rather short. Maybe the “zapper” thing is more intense than the Mercury dry station. I’ll do some tests but will do one at 2 seconds to see. Thanks for your help. 😇🤩

 

 Johnny

 

34 minutes ago, The Spadgent said:

I was doing tests last night and I did make a post. Alas the dreaded “This could not be posted” happened then the “500 error” thing . then!!! When I went to re post I deleted what I had written so. bottom! I went to bed. 🤣 so I shall try again today.

 The fourteen!!!

52266194669_0cf7481f1c_b.jpg

This set has a newly modelled main section that is more rounded using the old ribbed embossed section and a thinner mould overall. 0.5mm.

It was set at an exposure of 1.75sec as mentioned in the previous post. And I think these are the best prints yet. 😍

Darting around the cave like Peter Cushing in a hammer Frankenstein I was testing, dipping, washing curing. All in the search for the elusive clear parts. 

52265932176_5675e3bc98_b.jpg

I have done lots of tests and almost by accident I think I may have found the solution. 
 

I need to put in a bit more time today to find out. The cave seems to be full of malformed semi transparent bits of resin!!!! “It’s alive!! Allivvve!!!”  
 

 

probably. 😅

I should have clarified the 2 count step. My error. I would use the hand held UV light and do a 2 count , then check, adjust from there. I think it was in the 9-10 sec range before I was satisfied., at least with clear I haven't tried it on regular resin yet I just got my  Wash Plus for bigger prints(eventually), but I haven't had a chance to re-test using it as opposed to the flashlight. I do know that all other prints come out light years better than the way I was doing it ( Swishing in a vat of IPA , using a toothbrush, then  using a fingernail curing light). We're both in the right Church, now just have to figure out which is the right pew.

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4 hours ago, LorenSharp said:

 

I should have clarified the 2 count step. My error. I would use the hand held UV light and do a 2 count , then check, adjust from there. I think it was in the 9-10 sec range before I was satisfied., at least with clear I haven't tried it on regular resin yet I just got my  Wash Plus for bigger prints(eventually), but I haven't had a chance to re-test using it as opposed to the flashlight. I do know that all other prints come out light years better than the way I was doing it ( Swishing in a vat of IPA , using a toothbrush, then  using a fingernail curing light). We're both in the right Church, now just have to figure out which is the right pew.

Thanks for the info. It’s been super useful. I’m getting much better results now compared to a few days ago but even after curing (4minutes) as a test my resin seems tacky. ? I’ll leave over night and see what happens. 😇 moving closer to that pew. 🙏

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