Silent Running Dewey#1. 3D Studio Max & 3D Printed Adventures. ( Kind of Scratch Build )

[perdu]

Ian Allan, even Gwyn didn't mind having an occasional wander through there, sadly lost huh.

 

Still awfy handy for Wagamama and New St, was that your scooter?

 

I don't think there is a cat in hell's chance of Dewey being ferrous based so sadly I concur no rather wonderful rust effects for him.

 

But I must apologise for missing a large chunk of Dewey's birth pangs, nice to see where your 3D skills have gotten you to.

 

(yes, spotted old Tommy)

[The Spadgent]

On 20/02/2022 at 21:48, corsaircorp said:

Great progresses Dear Spad....

I hope that Eunice did'nt cause any damage at your home...

CC

Thanks CC. No damage thank heavens. 

On 21/02/2022 at 07:50, giemme said:

Spectacular paint/chipping job, Johnny!   

 

Ciao

Thanks G. Can’t wait to get back on this.

14 hours ago, perdu said:

Ian Allan, even Gwyn didn't mind having an occasional wander through there, sadly lost huh.

 

Still awfy handy for Wagamama and New St, was that your scooter?

 

I don't think there is a cat in hell's chance of Dewey being ferrous based so sadly I concur no rather wonderful rust effects for him.

 

But I must apologise for missing a large chunk of Dewey's birth pangs, nice to see where your 3D skills have gotten you to.

 

(yes, spotted old Tommy)

Thanks Bill. I liked Ian Allen, it was nice to browse at lunch times. And the cheap table was always good for a bargain. 
my scooter? Hell no I was going out for liquid refreshment, that would have been a sight to behold. 😱🙃 

I think it was the right choice to not have him rusty in the end. More soon after the Hind is complete. Nice to have you along for the ride Mind. 🤩

 

 Johnny

 

[Will Vale]

Cool paintwork and project. You and Andy are making 3D printers look very desirable.

 

Will

[The Spadgent]

On 22/03/2022 at 08:21, Will Vale said:

Cool paintwork and project. You and Andy are making 3D printers look very desirable.

 

Will

Thanks. Sorry for the delay. I have been building aeroplanes for the last few months. After my dual Tiger moth build I’ll be back on this like a shot. 😇

 

 Johnny.

[The Spadgent]

Good evening. I just can’t wait till the Tiger moths are complete so I’ve decided to dip in and out of both builds. 
The moths are HERE if you fancy a look in. 😉

While the paint dries on those two guess who’s back?

😍😍😍

I had to re read the build thread as I don’t really have any instructions to follow. After that I had to decide whether to have a moving arm or a static arm. I threw caution to the wind and went with the former. It’ll probably be a disaster but I’ll never know if I don’t try. So reference at the ready I booted up Max and set about building the sections. I’ll bolt them together with plastic rod. 🤞🤞🤞

 Here’s the structure after a few hours Modelling.

I did rig it in max but forgot to take a pic. Hopefully it will all fold out and twist too.

You can see the backing plate here.

The little claw will fit in here and hopefully be positional.

Here are all the components before they get imported into Chitu box.

Quite the collection. 😀

Another hour doing the supports and placement. Oh I also made the lower button panel.

Luckily all parts fit on the build plate.😮‍💨

now I just have to wait. 

See you tomorrow. It’s great to be backs 😇

 

Any questions please ask. All the best and as always. Happy modelling.

 

 Johnny

[Back in the Saddle]

I haven’t tried 3d printing yet but thoroughly enjoy the process of designing 2d decals for my BA tail fins. Maybe I should give this a go one day!

 

Good to see the progress on both this build and the Moths - as ever, they are all coming together beautifully.👍

[The Spadgent]

7 hours ago, Back in the Saddle said:

I haven’t tried 3d printing yet but thoroughly enjoy the process of designing 2d decals for my BA tail fins. Maybe I should give this a go one day!

 

Good to see the progress on both this build and the Moths - as ever, they are all coming together beautifully.👍

3D printing is great fun and there are quite a few of us on BM to help out if you get stuck. I’m still learning but I think I have the basics down. Glad you’re enjoying the builds. 😀 I need to check over your builds too. Feels like it’s been forever since I dropped in.  Sorry. 
 

Johnny

[The Spadgent]

Well that was a long first day back at work. 🫣😮‍💨 But look what was waiting for me when I woke up this morning. 🤩

Huzzah!  No failed prints and the detail looks good. Washed off in the Mercury. Or (Freddie) 

Ready for curing. 

Snipped off and a little bit of a tidy. The alignment of the moving parts got tested. And you know what? 

perfect. 😇 I might need to use a slightly bigger rod to create more friction but overall the joints “just” work. 😀

Everything was going so well until I noticed the front of the furthest arm looked a little small. Closest bit at the bottom up there. Upon checking it was indeed too small. I’d scaled the whole thing up at the last minute by about 30% guess which bit got left out of the selection. 😫🥺

Never mind a bit more time and a few extra bits made and we’re here.

These are the base for the main head light and the wiring panel that lives below. I made extras just in case. 

you can really see the difference in size of the old and new parts. Also I have an odd anomaly. If you zoom in to the wiring panel the model has holes all the way through to allow me to push wires through. These didn’t print correctly but last time I printed holes in the joints without error. Maybe it’s the orientation? Not to worry though as I can drill them out using the marks as a good starting point. 😀

 

 almost time to try clear resin🫥 will it work? Maybe? Watch this space.

 

 All comments welcome.

 

 Take care and as always.

 Happy modelling.

 

 Johnny

[hendie]

Nice job Johnny. I like the articulation. 

Small through holes are always a challenge. I think you are right about the orientation being the culprit here. 

You might want to print a few extras with the clear resin - it can yellow quite substantially  if overcured.  I've read of people curing clear resin under water which supposedly minimizes the yellowing but haven't tried that myself... the window cill worked for me

[Mike]

Love it.  Where's mine again?

[giemme]

Now movable parts too?  There's no stopping you, is there?   

Ciao

[The Spadgent]

9 hours ago, hendie said:

Nice job Johnny. I like the articulation. 

Small through holes are always a challenge. I think you are right about the orientation being the culprit here. 

You might want to print a few extras with the clear resin - it can yellow quite substantially  if overcured.  I've read of people curing clear resin under water which supposedly minimizes the yellowing but haven't tried that myself... the window cill worked for me

Thanks. 😃 The holes that worked were side on if that makes sense and the ones that didn’t were face on to the plate. Maybe that’s it? I’ve drilled them now so all good. Thanks for the clear resin tip. I’ll print extra for sure. Read on. 🙃

9 hours ago, Mike said:

Love it.  Where's mine again?

Thanks Mike. I’ll let you know when he’s finished. 😇

8 hours ago, giemme said:

Now movable parts too?  There's no stopping you, is there?   

Ciao

Thanks Giorgio. They do move but I need to find a way to make them stiff. 😅. ( @CedB where are yooooou ) 🤣

[The Spadgent]

A bit more tonight but hindered by the one and only monster of ze Carpet. 👹🧌

All the bits sanded and titled have a quick dry fit. Lovely! 🤓

The arm sits ok on the main bracket.

And pulls out well. Only dry fitted so it looks a little rickety. 

Next up was to try and fit the grabber into the swivel hand part. 😫 During this i managed to simply drop one heading off the grabber on the floor. I without a word of a lie I swear I saw a little portal to @perdu’s bench open up and it slipped right through. I fear I now have a carpet wizard! 🧙‍♂️🪄😆

search as I might I couldn’t find it. Even checked in my trousers. 🥺

 nothing for it but to create spares. I did a few extras too. Just in case.

And that’s about it for tonight. If anyone has any bright ideas ahem @hendie @perdu about how I might get some friction on my moving arm parts I’m all ears. I did try squeezing the rod with pliers and pulling it into the centre to give some resistance. That kind of worked but I’m still open for more elegant solutions. 
 

Thanks for dropping in. Take care y’all.

 

 Johnny

[hendie]

49 minutes ago, The Spadgent said:

how I might get some friction on my moving arm parts I’m all ears.

 

   Male and female pin contrivance?

Plastic tube slipped into the joint, then push something a little bit large into the tube hole so that the tube is forced to swell inside the joint thereby creating the necessary rubbingness you are looking for?

Or do you have any small machine screws of the right diameter?  If the thread cuts into both the upper and lower arm joint holes it may provide enough friction to keep you smiling?

You should still be able to remove the screw heads afterwards if you can't live with them from an accuracy standpoint

 

 

I was going to write about how you need something to interfere with both your arms, but thought better of it, so I didn't. 

 

  crap!

 

 

 

 

 

 

[The Spadgent]

1 hour ago, hendie said:

 

   Male and female pin contrivance?

Plastic tube slipped into the joint, then push something a little bit large into the tube hole so that the tube is forced to swell inside the joint thereby creating the necessary rubbingness you are looking for?

Or do you have any small machine screws of the right diameter?  If the thread cuts into both the upper and lower arm joint holes it may provide enough friction to keep you smiling?

You should still be able to remove the screw heads afterwards if you can't live with them from an accuracy standpoint

 

 

I was going to write about how you need something to interfere with both your arms, but thought better of it, so I didn't. 

 

  crap!

 

 

 

 

 

 

I thought about that. Maybe a tube bud the hole is probably 0.8mm the rod that fits is about 0.7mm so I’m struggling to find something so tiny. Maybe some tape around the rod? 
 

The screw idea might work if I have anything small enough. 🤔

 

 Thanks for the great ideas. 😀😇
 

Hmmmm all fun and games.

[perdu]

9 hours ago, hendie said:

Male and female pin contrivance?

Hmm, in my engineering years if a drilling to take a pivot was a little loose a firm favourite (Bad truly crapulous pun, sorry) was to put the pin on the bench and gently roll it along under the face of a flat file.

 

The principle is that in indenting the surface with file teeth other pieces of the surface between the teeth would squish up off the surface and make its overall diameter fractionally thicker/wider so use a fairly coarse file.

 

You are not trying to take plastic off, remember so dont go bull at a gate at the rodding.

 

Slaters used to make reddish browny red plastic rod which had a structure internally which would crack under stress, as above and still retain lots of its strength, that would solve your problem because it came in sizes which were more optimistic than accurate.

 

There was always a slightly thicker one in the pack than you'd expect, in its absence try thickening under rolling stress as above.

 

Good luck mon ami, oh by the way, no unexpected resinous pieces have appeared yet, but we know that Carpet Space has a disassociated time factor so I will keep the old peepers peeled.

[Hunter Rose]

Man this is seriously tempting me to ge a 3d printer! Great work 😎

[hendie]

Another idea you could try... increase the width of the flanges on the bracket holding the arm. At the moment you have a slip fit between the bracket and the upper arm - if you narrow the slot the arm fits into in order to create a slight interference, that may be enough to grip the arm in position, and that would leave the "pin" just for alignment. 

K&S do a 0.81mm brass rod if that helps.

 

Taking Bills approach - if you're using plastic rod you could take a pair of snips and pinch (but don't cut through) the rod several times along it's length, creating high spots, or even melt it in a couple of places to do the same thing.  I'm not sure how long that would last though as plastic has a tendency to creep when under stress

 

 

[The Spadgent]

10 hours ago, perdu said:

Hmm, in my engineering years if a drilling to take a pivot was a little loose a firm favourite (Bad truly crapulous pun, sorry) was to put the pin on the bench and gently roll it along under the face of a flat file.

 

The principle is that in indenting the surface with file teeth other pieces of the surface between the teeth would squish up off the surface and make its overall diameter fractionally thicker/wider so use a fairly coarse file.

 

You are not trying to take plastic off, remember so dont go bull at a gate at the rodding.

 

Slaters used to make reddish browny red plastic rod which had a structure internally which would crack under stress, as above and still retain lots of its strength, that would solve your problem because it came in sizes which were more optimistic than accurate.

 

There was always a slightly thicker one in the pack than you'd expect, in its absence try thickening under rolling stress as above.

 

Good luck mon ami, oh by the way, no unexpected resinous pieces have appeared yet, but we know that Carpet Space has a disassociated time factor so I will keep the old peepers peeled.

That is a good idea. It’s kind of like my pinching the rod with the pliers but better. 
mid I had metal rod that would be better too. I’ll have a looksie. Thanks Bill. 🤩

6 hours ago, Hunter Rose said:

Man this is seriously tempting me to ge a 3d printer! Great work 😎

Do it! 😉

4 hours ago, hendie said:

Another idea you could try... increase the width of the flanges on the bracket holding the arm. At the moment you have a slip fit between the bracket and the upper arm - if you narrow the slot the arm fits into in order to create a slight interference, that may be enough to grip the arm in position, and that would leave the "pin" just for alignment. 

K&S do a 0.81mm brass rod if that helps.

 

Taking Bills approach - if you're using plastic rod you could take a pair of snips and pinch (but don't cut through) the rod several times along it's length, creating high spots, or even melt it in a couple of places to do the same thing.  I'm not sure how long that would last though as plastic has a tendency to creep when under stress

 

 

Oh my! That is another good idea! 🤩🤩🤩 I’ll go and give that a go too.  Thanks Alan.

Fencing tonight so it’ll be tomorrow for a proper test.

 

Johnny. 🪄

[Pete in Lincs]

21 hours ago, The Spadgent said:

They do move but I need to find a way to make them stiff. 😅. ( @CedB where are yooooou )

He's just turned up (after an overlong absence) on @TheBaron's Sea Vixen thread. Hoorah!

 

Nice printing, Johnny and nice plastic tweaking suggestions, guys.

[Cerberus]

 

On 04/05/2022 at 22:42, The Spadgent said:

That kind of worked but I’m still open for more elegant solutions. 

 

You could try dramatically increasing the size of the pivot rod, and then just fit it with a very tight interference fit (but it will still gradually work loose over time) a friction pivot point tends to work on the basis of a large surface area, a large contact area, so the pivot rod needs to be bigger, quite a bit bigger, might work though if you manage to get a good tight fit, without breaking anything.

 

 Another option would be to use pivot springs/Torsion springs, those little round springs with two tabs/arms, if you set them in opposition to each other on a pivot point, they will in effect allow you to lock the arms in any position that you like, but will still allow some movement, the problem here is fitting them in such a way that they are hidden, or hard to see, from looking at the pictures of your arms, and how they have been constructed, I'm not too sure of how easy that would be, there doesn't seem to be a lot of room to fit other things.

 

 I'm not sure that either of those are much help...

 

 Silent Running, a damn good film, very thought provoking 

 

 

 

[Bigdave22014]

How about using a tube and expanding the ends?

[Back in the Saddle]

On 03/05/2022 at 23:29, The Spadgent said:

3D printing is great fun and there are quite a few of us on BM to help out if you get stuck. I’m still learning but I think I have the basics down. Glad you’re enjoying the builds. 😀 I need to check over your builds too. Feels like it’s been forever since I dropped in.  Sorry. 

Thanks for the offer to help - if I go down this route at any point I will be asking for advice and re-reading threads like this again!

 

Don't worry about my builds - there's not much going on at the moment! 😁

 

Very nice progress on the articulated arm. Shame about the carpet monster (or Perdu's thieving wizards...!)

[CedB]

Nice build Jont and coming along really well  

I like Silent Running too - cute 'bots!

[perdu]

Still no little bits of unexpected resinousness.

 

FYI I am busy trying to make constraints constrain properly in Fusion360

 

I will get there but it doesnt help that the Handbook I bought is for an earlier, slightly different version of the software and the terms/headings in Design it uses are not available in my version.

 

as I said I will get there...

 

Now, the pivot pin.

Some of us require a diameter so we can scour our dwindling supplies of old style red Slater's Rod for your use.