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Silent Running Dewey#1. 3D Studio Max & 3D Printed Adventures. ( Kind of Scratch Build )


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Dewey #1

Silent Running

Modelled in 3D Studio Max & Printed with Elegoo Mars 2Pro

 

Hi guys and welcome to my build of Dewey#1 one of the drones from the film Silent Running.

If you don't know the movie there is a brief write up about it HERE.

It has been one of my favourite films since I was a kid back in the 70s and 80s.

I have been hankering after a kit of "The Drones" for years and have been holding off buying the wonderful looking kits from Destiny models  as they are just out of my budget. especially if I want all three.

With that said The family unfortunately came down with the dreaded Covid and over the last 8 or 9 days I have been isolated from them and it really bought this film back into my mind. Although I'm not quite as isolated as Bruce Dern was. but I have been feeling a bit like this.

wip_02

So with itchy fingers and an urge to jump into 3D Printing thanks to Alan @hendie & Tony @TheBaron I found myself the proud owner of .

MICK ( Mars )

An Elegoo Mars 2 pro

51544353909_cdb6734053_b.jpg

and

FREDDIE (Mercury)

Elegoo mercury plus 

51555999485_92d19b43ce_b.jpg

Quite apt I'm naming my digital friends. 😀 

I'm totally new to 3D printing and really have no idea what I'm doing aside from help over thee past week or so from the wonderful folk on Brit Modeller and of course You tube.

I have a good Knowledge of 3D Studio Max but rarely get the opportunity to model High Poly robots these days so this is a real departure and treat.

I have another build on the go that I'm also adding 3D elements to. The Vintage Airfix Hawker Demon. WIP can be found HERE. Follow along if you fancy it. 

Well There is no scale in the build notes as I don't really have one. The drones in the movie were about waist height. alas my printer is not so big so Currently the middle section is printing off at around eight or nine CM. we shall see I guess.

Here are some cool movie pictures as I have no box to show.

wip_03

I love this one.

wip_01

And this is the little guy himself. I believe this is the destiny models version. Cools isn't he. Hopefully I can get something like.

tumblr_mjzq2qcrlC1s2b5hco1_1280

You'll note there is a little light on the top right of his head. I'll need to do some "plunge" moulding for this so I'll ask the help of Bill @perdu to lead my way in the dark. Other than that I'm planning to make a full kit with possible additions of wires etc. 

Unfortunately I took a Lateral flow test this morning and I have succumbed to the virus. I don't feel to terrible but I'll be stuck in the house for the next ten days.   

What a to do.  😈

 

Please join with me and see if I can pull this off.

 

All the best and happy modelling.

 

Johnny.

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Well I started like this.

51547731414_130399e20a_b.jpg

to be fair the plans are for drone number #3 but the shape is pretty much the same for all 3 so it's a good start. I don't really have a lot of blueprints or sizes so I'm getting research from the movie and eyeballing a lot of the details.

I wasn't happy with the way I modelled this so last night I did the whole thing again. I know it may look the same but it is different in structure.

Currently we are here.

51567913762_d0e4b1477f_b.jpg

My plan is to print off sections of the drone and assemble them later on. I'd like this to be about 15cm wide but we shall see. The build plate of the Elegoo isn't quite that big so making smaller chunks is a necessity.

I could print him off in one lump but where is the fun in that? 😇

Here are some more shots so you can see some of the details.

I'm planning on putting sockets under there so I can at least position the legs.

51568952978_f5809e0dcf_b.jpg

there are details everywhere. Each drone is slightly different so I'm trying to get these as accurate as I can.

51568952963_613f864cfc_b.jpg

 

51567913772_c565c1a9e7_b.jpg

Here are some of the wires.

51568952923_bc5d5ebcfc_b.jpg

I was worried about smoothing groups from max but found that if you have enough polygons, Chitu box re factors everything anyway and ends up working. Well it did on my tiny Demon wheels so lets hope it works on something BIGGER. 

The 3D modelling was going fine but I'm reluctant to carry on without a valid test that this will actually print. As of Writing my reluctances are still valid as we are only an hour in to my first attept.

I was planning on printing three test bits.

The vent.

51567913697_549e12062a_b.jpg

and I have split the main section into two parts, Front and Back.

51568952828_92737b02f2_b.jpg

Stupidly I took the picture of the back section facing its hollow side. 🤦‍♂️

Chitu Box does a "hollow out" operand but  it looks a little hoaky to me so I decided to do it myself. 

Here's the first test in Chitu Box.

51568953088_9ec3320c7e_b.jpg

I did all the supports by hand as I have seen a lot of tutorials saying the auto ones are a bit bobbins. I guess the proof is in the pudding. 

I'll let you know how it goes. Luckily I'm not feeling too bad. My taste has gone all funny and I feel a little woozy but that's probably the resin fumes. 😬

 

Take care chums. Hope you're all having a grand old weekend.

 

Johnny. 

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One of my favourite films too. I found some free Hewey etc paper prints on line years ago and made them up.

They were quite nice. Darned if I can remember what happened to them though.

I'll be sitting in pod 3 watching your progress on this one. DO NOT eject pod 3! Thank you.

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Impressive CAD drawings... Look like I'm lost this time...

My joker is my son, learning 3D animation.... 

I'll surely be told "You boomers did'nt understand how easy it is !! " 

Easy... You bet... I'll try one day...

Keep on printing my dear Spad !! Drink a lot od Schweppes indian tonic, It'll help !!

Sincerely.

CC

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There's a film I've not watched since I was a teenager. I remember it had a big effect on my sponge like grey matter at the time, slightly different feel to Red Dwarf, which I think had just hit our screens about the same time. Watching with interest!

 

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I think you may have gone slightly overboard on the number of supports there Johnny.  I'll put that down to your covid related wooze factor.  Still, better to have excess cleanup to do rather than a failed print.

 

Seems like you're already at ease with this printing malarkey - it's really not that difficult is it?  

I'm more a fan of 50's & 60's sci-fi, Robby, B9, Daleks etc. Oooh there's a thought - I can print some Daleks to go with my first ever scratch build/ first ever BM topic.

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The observant amongst us in the parish of  BM might have noticed a :( sad smilogon back on message #1.

 

Does not mean I won't be assisting if I can, does mean oh gorskyblat™ on reading that you have hit the low spots Johnty.

 

Call on me at any time, my knowledge base is yours of course mate.

 

(Do not expect me to make house calls for a while)

 

I can hardly remember the film, let alone Dewey or the other cast members, you no doubt will fill me in.

 

On observing your stills I am at a loss to imagine where pull/plunge moulding will help, your self-appointed task is to show me when you need it.

 

See you along the line, do get better dear chap.

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Nice!:popcorn:

 

We had 3 Roombas at one point, labeled Huey, Dewey and Louie in honor of this movie. While our Chocolate Labs tolerated them, our 1st GSD decided they needed killing...

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2 hours ago, giemme said:

Plunge molding is going to be a lot easier than this 3D malarkey, Johnny .... :D 

 

Nice start :clap:

 

Take care

Oh I don’t know about that. It terrifies me. I was thinking about the buck. The resin will melt with hot plastic on top but could I print a buck and wrap in tin foil? 🤔

2 hours ago, Pete in Lincs said:

One of my favourite films too. I found some free Hewey etc paper prints on line years ago and made them up.

They were quite nice. Darned if I can remember what happened to them though.

I'll be sitting in pod 3 watching your progress on this one. DO NOT eject pod 3! Thank you.

Pod 3 is safe!  Thanks nice to have you aboard. I might need to make a little tree too. 🌳

1 hour ago, corsaircorp said:

Impressive CAD drawings... Look like I'm lost this time...

My joker is my son, learning 3D animation.... 

I'll surely be told "You boomers did'nt understand how easy it is !! " 

Easy... You bet... I'll try one day...

Keep on printing my dear Spad !! Drink a lot od Schweppes indian tonic, It'll help !!

Sincerely.

CC

Tonic you say?  Hmmm ok I’ll give it a shot.

1 hour ago, Quiet Mike said:

There's a film I've not watched since I was a teenager. I remember it had a big effect on my sponge like grey matter at the time, slightly different feel to Red Dwarf, which I think had just hit our screens about the same time. Watching with interest!

 

Very different things for sure but I do love em both. Ooh maybe I could do red dwarf too. And space bug. 🤓😀

1 hour ago, hendie said:

I think you may have gone slightly overboard on the number of supports there Johnny.  I'll put that down to your covid related wooze factor.  Still, better to have excess cleanup to do rather than a failed print.

 

Seems like you're already at ease with this printing malarkey - it's really not that difficult is it?  

I'm more a fan of 50's & 60's sci-fi, Robby, B9, Daleks etc. Oooh there's a thought - I can print some Daleks to go with my first ever scratch build/ first ever BM topic.

Thanks Alan. There’s a guy on the tube that I’ve been watching that insists that a successful print with OTT supports is better that a fail, like you said.  So I figured as it’s my first big thing I’d do a few heavy anchors, some mediums in between then a bunch of lights.  It’s a big flat surface and I’ve heard of ahem “sagging” and no body want. “Sagging”  all the points of contact are inside the model so no damage to the outer print. 2 hours to go, looks like it’s working.  Btw. K9 is on the cards as is a Robby the robot. But that glass dome. 😩

also I’m now intrigued to go see your first build. 😀

1 hour ago, perdu said:

The observant amongst us in the parish of  BM might have noticed a :( sad smilogon back on message #1.

 

Does not mean I won't be assisting if I can, does mean oh gorskyblat™ on reading that you have hit the low spots Johnty.

 

Call on me at any time, my knowledge base is yours of course mate.

 

(Do not expect me to make house calls for a while)

 

I can hardly remember the film, let alone Dewey or the other cast members, you no doubt will fill me in.

 

On observing your stills I am at a loss to imagine where pull/plunge moulding will help, your self-appointed task is to show me when you need it.

 

See you along the line, do get better dear chap.

No worries Bill. I’m just glad to have you around. This can be my bus. 🤗  The plunge part will be the light cowl. If you look at the pic of Dewey. On the right of the big number one at the top, you can see the light. Looks like a 70s lampost. You can see him using it in the painting. 💡 😇

1 hour ago, dnl42 said:

Nice!:popcorn:

 

We had 3 Roombas at one point, labeled Huey, Dewey and Louie in honor of this movie. While our Chocolate Labs tolerated them, our 1st GSD decided they needed killing...

Poor Roombas! 🐶 🤣😬

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I loved Silent Running as a kid.  It always amused me that the agro ships in the original Battlestar Galactica (another childhood favorite) were re-uses of the Silent Running model.

 

Re: the virus, I truly hope that you are one of the fortunate mild symptom cases!

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10 hours ago, corsaircorp said:

Yup, the Gin is not mandatory....:penguin:

Well, I mean, it's up to you... :hmmm:

CC

Thanks Alain I think I’ll stay off the booze for a bit I feel wobbly enough. Perhaps this 3D printing lark is all a bizarre fever dream. 🤣😵💫

10 hours ago, hendie said:

 

this should be the link...

 

 

Wow!!!! Something tells me I’d seen your Dalek before even though I didn’t comment. Must have been the days before I was a member. Totally amazing. I have a few of the old Sevans kits. I have a built Dalek too. Looks very much like what you have but yours is much more elegantly constructed. 💙💙

3 hours ago, opus999 said:

I loved Silent Running as a kid.  It always amused me that the agro ships in the original Battlestar Galactica (another childhood favorite) were re-uses of the Silent Running model.

 

Re: the virus, I truly hope that you are one of the fortunate mild symptom cases!

They re used a lot of stuff back then. Hammer were buggers for using the same set on multiple films. 
and thanks for the well wishes. I’m running between hot and cold this morning. Trying to distract myself with modelling. 🤞🤞🤞🤞

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Morning! 🥵🥶 that is how the virus has me this morning. In between head aches. But I’m sure a bit of BM will distract me. (Even if I do have to write this all again). 😞 “do it in word” I can hear @Mike saying. I know, I know it’s my fault. 😩 still I hate myself a little bit for pressing buttons Willy nilly. The interwebs don’t like Willy nilly. 😂 ( I’ll post in sections so don’t reply before you see “over and out”. At the end of the post. Very overlook hotel. 🤣😜

The cut and thrust was this.

The print took quite a while, six hours to be exact.

here she is two or so hours in.

51571315486_0364b15803_b.jpg

Very happy that the base has stuck. Now I’ll go through some setting later on. 
Fast forward four or so hours and we have this beauty.

51571554748_36a74c229c_b.jpg

She’s not without her issues mind. But as you can see in comparison to my first print of some wheels for my demon she’s huge!  
After Mick had finished it was time for Freddie.

( I’m not sure I like this naming convention. 😋)

51572242610_01bb4e19ee_b.jpg

cleaned of excess resin and left to dry. I’m rather smitten already. ❤️

51571998489_80e868ac3d_b.jpg

Now if you look at the supports you can see that they are a little bit bent. Hmmmm🤔

From the rear you can see some bowed resin.

51571998484_0550c740f5_b.jpg

What was the song Quinn sang about “ Bow legged women” ? 🤣💃 any way I have some theories but as mentioned before I’m more Art than CAD and I tend not to be all exacting with my construction so if I break some rules then I apologise up front. 
before I begin let’s remove the supports.

”Remove the supports”  “how do you know she’s a witch “ etc🤣🤣

51571998524_33a501bc53_b.jpg

As @perdu would say. “ There’s a lot aye they”

well yes there is. But spinning her around you can see why. The supports came away really well and the inside doesn’t matter if it’s pitted with marks.

51570509977_9623006ab6_b.jpg

Trying to get this in its worse light you can see the bow to the left and the top.

It’s not awful and they can be sanded back but I’d like this not to happen. 
my thoughts are after wielding said section, all the weight is at the top and she does have some heft even hollowed.

51571315451_520b3842e2_b.jpg

Now I’d put all this weight at the highest point, looking back I’m thinking this is a bad idea.

also having the hollow part where I did I created a kind of bucket for the liquid resin to be lifted and dropped on every slice. Hmmmm another bad idea?

Better men than I @hendie , @TheBaron  I’m looking at you . 👀 might know if it is actually a bad idea. Looking at the shots though you can see the bow at the top is bent toward the plate? Hmmm tension from the side wall bowing out maybe? 
I set my lower exposure to 60 and my main exposure to 3.5.  Mainly to be sure of good adhesion to the plate and because she was a big piece. You can see the slight bow here too.

51570510052_c3fc9ce044_b.jpg

Sanding will fix this but realistically I would rather not.  Reading up on print design in products this morning. (I’m so exotic I know) I came across this.

A little snippet.

51572068254_132aca4e62_b.jpg

Basically talking about what was going on with my Dewey part. ❤️
It seems it’s not uncommon for warping to happen like this in all types of moulding.

adding Ribs, bosses? (For screws I think but it’ll help the edges)  and the triangle one I can’t remember the name of might help my back section keep in shape. We shall see.

 

🤔😀

 

Well I’m having a great deal of fun regardless. Hopefully if I’m not totally taken down by Ze Virus I’ll have another update tonight. Either this or the demon. 
 

Hope you’re all having a great weekend.

Take care chums.

 

”Over and out”

 

Johnny.

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4 hours ago, The Spadgent said:

I’m looking at you .

Hmmm. :laugh:

Johnny - I wouldn't have the temerity to pretend omniscience in an area I'm still only paddling in the shallows of but that does indeed look like a large slab of geometry to be dragging up and down in the resin as a single part; certainly I've encountered similar issues on smaller parts at times due to having < @hendie can insert a proper grown-up description here using the correct engineering terms> large planar surfaces acting as a drag on the z-axis each time the printer raises and lowers the platen, causing deformation.

 

I'd be tempted to break that design down into simpler sub-components  to allow the resin to flow around it in manner creating less pressure/resistance on certain regions during printing. Looking at the combination of 'walls' and 'floors' you have there, they might break down into about three sections in order to print more efficiently as a series of vertically oriented planes and assembled together again afterwards to produce the overall design.

 

When it comes to sticking 3d printed parts together, the strongest and easiest method by far is to also use the printing resin as a glue (indeed it works equally well as a filler if you're as clumsy as me) and get yourself something like this to cure it in place. 405nm is the wavelength to watchout for iirc, and 1MW rating. Being of the same material as the print itself it's invisible once sanded back.

 

HTH,

Tony

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Tony's suggestion of multiple parts is a good one and worth considering. 

I've had some issues previously when printing large parts - the end covers for the rails on Pegasus spring to mind so you are not alone.  The thing about failed parts is that they can/should be useful. The key is examining what's failed and trying to determine a root cause.  In that respect, while they may be failed parts, they are and should be good learning tools.

Unfortunately, it can be difficult to spot potential problems in advance, but often, in retrospect it's 'doh! well that makes sense, though sometimes finding a root cause can be a lot more  of a challenge.

 

Looking at the result, I have a couple of suggestions for you. 

  1. Once that fourth wall starts printing, in essence you are dipping a big bucket in and out of the vat. With each dip it's going to hold more resin and that weight will increase with each dip.  You could add a small hole or slot on that 4th wall to allow resin to drain.
  2. In the front view you have 4 distinct sections.  From screen shots above it looks like you will be adding panels in each of those sections?  Therefore, there's no need to have that section fully closed off. Instead of each full panel, why don't you just have a ledge around the perimeter for your infill panel to fix to?  That would also allow the resin to drain as there is no more bucket Delilah.
  3. If you want a belt and braces approach, you could add ribs on the back side to prevent the walls bellowing out. The ribs don't need to be full depth - think of them more as tie-bars, and place them more towards the back side - and they can always be removed later. Don't make the ribs too thick though as that will present other problems to you.

 

I hope that makes sense?  I'm in a bit of a rush at the mo' otherwise I could have done some screenshots to make things clearer.

 

What layer height were you using?   Often, if I have any questions about a prints success, I'll run a draft print at 0.5mm to check the design, and if that turns out fine, I'll run another at finer settings.

 

 

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On 10/9/2021 at 11:20 AM, The Spadgent said:

You'll note there is a little light on the top right of his head. I'll need to do some "plunge" moulding for this

 

Or do you?  I know the clear transparent resin can have issues with yellowing, but have you thought of using one of the colored transparent resins?   The blues and greens look quite cool, though I think a transparent red in that area would work

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Very nice progress so far.

 

Re: the warping and sagging, I've recently printed some Gonk droids that have a similar boxy shape, and I added an internal frame to lessen the chances of the sides distorting. They all printed out fairly well, with only a little light sanding needed on the outer faces to remove any print lines.

 

51220936488_6d31e3b5bb_c.jpg51307225380_ff69406f3d_c.jpg

 

Andy:cat:

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On 10/10/2021 at 10:14, Anthony Kesterton said:

Fantastic film and great to see your 3D printing work. Getting flat/straight surfaces seems to be quite difficult so watching this with interest!

Thanks. Odd isn’t it you’d think flat bits would be easy.  Well you live and learn. 😀

On 10/10/2021 at 12:26, TheBaron said:

Hmmm. :laugh:

Johnny - I wouldn't have the temerity to pretend omniscience in an area I'm still only paddling in the shallows of but that does indeed look like a large slab of geometry to be dragging up and down in the resin as a single part; certainly I've encountered similar issues on smaller parts at times due to having < @hendie can insert a proper grown-up description here using the correct engineering terms> large planar surfaces acting as a drag on the z-axis each time the printer raises and lowers the platen, causing deformation.

 

I'd be tempted to break that design down into simpler sub-components  to allow the resin to flow around it in manner creating less pressure/resistance on certain regions during printing. Looking at the combination of 'walls' and 'floors' you have there, they might break down into about three sections in order to print more efficiently as a series of vertically oriented planes and assembled together again afterwards to produce the overall design.

 

When it comes to sticking 3d printed parts together, the strongest and easiest method by far is to also use the printing resin as a glue (indeed it works equally well as a filler if you're as clumsy as me) and get yourself something like this to cure it in place. 405nm is the wavelength to watchout for iirc, and 1MW rating. Being of the same material as the print itself it's invisible once sanded back.

 

HTH,

Tony

Thanks Tony. I was going to use rocket glue to stick it but I’ll try this method too. I’m not sure I’ll break it into many more bits but I did have an idea. 💡

22 hours ago, hendie said:

Tony's suggestion of multiple parts is a good one and worth considering. 

I've had some issues previously when printing large parts - the end covers for the rails on Pegasus spring to mind so you are not alone.  The thing about failed parts is that they can/should be useful. The key is examining what's failed and trying to determine a root cause.  In that respect, while they may be failed parts, they are and should be good learning tools.

Unfortunately, it can be difficult to spot potential problems in advance, but often, in retrospect it's 'doh! well that makes sense, though sometimes finding a root cause can be a lot more  of a challenge.

 

Looking at the result, I have a couple of suggestions for you. 

  1. Once that fourth wall starts printing, in essence you are dipping a big bucket in and out of the vat. With each dip it's going to hold more resin and that weight will increase with each dip.  You could add a small hole or slot on that 4th wall to allow resin to drain.
  2. In the front view you have 4 distinct sections.  From screen shots above it looks like you will be adding panels in each of those sections?  Therefore, there's no need to have that section fully closed off. Instead of each full panel, why don't you just have a ledge around the perimeter for your infill panel to fix to?  That would also allow the resin to drain as there is no more bucket Delilah.
  3. If you want a belt and braces approach, you could add ribs on the back side to prevent the walls bellowing out. The ribs don't need to be full depth - think of them more as tie-bars, and place them more towards the back side - and they can always be removed later. Don't make the ribs too thick though as that will present other problems to you.

 

I hope that makes sense?  I'm in a bit of a rush at the mo' otherwise I could have done some screenshots to make things clearer.

 

What layer height were you using?   Often, if I have any questions about a prints success, I'll run a draft print at 0.5mm to check the design, and if that turns out fine, I'll run another at finer settings.

 

 

What a wonderful insight. I was lying in bed after posting the thread and having the same thoughts you had written in this very post. As they were printing I was reading what you had written.  I’ll show you my results in the next post. 

21 hours ago, Pete in Lincs said:

Dur, yep. What they said. (well above my pay grade, but it sounds like it makes sense).

It's a big beasty though isn't it? Nice.

It really does make a lot of sense. I thought it was all gobbledegook  before I got into the whole print thang. But in reality it’s actually quite simple you just need to see it from a certain angle.  Yes he’s going to be about the size I wanted. 😀

15 hours ago, hendie said:

 

Or do you?  I know the clear transparent resin can have issues with yellowing, but have you thought of using one of the colored transparent resins?   The blues and greens look quite cool, though I think a transparent red in that area would work

Hmmmm you think the clear resin prints out good enough? I’d like to see the bulb behind. 

12 hours ago, Corsairfoxfouruncle said:

One of my favorite films actually, I think I need to follow this build. 

Great! Glad to have you aboard.

1 hour ago, Andy Moore said:

Very nice progress so far.

 

Re: the warping and sagging, I've recently printed some Gonk droids that have a similar boxy shape, and I added an internal frame to lessen the chances of the sides distorting. They all printed out fairly well, with only a little light sanding needed on the outer faces to remove any print lines.

 

51220936488_6d31e3b5bb_c.jpg51307225380_ff69406f3d_c.jpg

 

Andy:cat:

Oh Andy thank you. If you see my next post you’ll see what I mean. Your builds have been a real inspiration to me and I was actually thinking about your gonk (sounds weird writing it down) while I was pondering the side sections last night. What you have printed is pretty much what I had in mind. I follow your Flickr so only saw the pics of gonk as he went along (wasn’t sure if he was printed) . I think I’ll seek out your WIP on BM to get some more helpful insight. 
 

thanks for the wonderful help all.

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Afternoon chums. 😀

Positive PCR result this morning so kicking and screaming (really) work has told me to book the week off. I did a bit of tidy up this morning but that’s me done for a few days.( I have worked from home since LD one)   This virus is so weird, my head felt about fifty percent bigger yesterday and full of snot now that’s gone and I feel like I’m made of glass and my eyeball hurt? Go figure. 
 

Any hoo if my body lets me I can do bits of this. 
yesterday had some fun moments.

Looking at the max file I could see why the main section was bent.🤪 because I told it to be.

51576499051_f6841e6e49_b.jpg

Such a plonker. You can also see how thick the resin will be on the top section. I’ll re build the internals for the next droid.

So after reading the info about ribs etc I decided to hit the vents next.

51576738848_742099d821_b.jpg

Instead of having a solid slab of resin for the base I figured I’d test out the technique.

I put a lot less support on this one and at my exposure lower too 45 base 2.5 main.

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A little wobble on the edge but the structure is a lot better. 

tilted on two angles too to help drainage and to lessen the print lines of the flat bits.

seems to work well.

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And tother side.

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you can see by adding a few more supports that wobble will vanish. The vents were exactly as I’d built them in max which was good and bad in equal measure. 
good, they look spot on.

bad, it doesn’t quite fit the hole! 😩 

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The reason being I totally miss judged the tolerances. Also the inner void angles down at the top . My vent model didn’t. In max my model parts effortlessly slide into each other in reality not so much.  A little bit of sanding and a bit of gentle persuasion and it fits.

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Here we are in place. 

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I have now fixed the size of the Digital part so for the other droids I’ll be fine. 😇

Next up was the back of Dewey , not the most detail but I can test out my ideas. The same ones @hendie was having. 

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as you can see I have made holes where panels will fit over. I can also dig holes in the front part too to make it less “bucket” next time around.

inside I did ribs and side buttresses.

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With these adjustments and the lower exposure times this one was set to run for three hours. Fifty percent less than the front. Nice! 😎

Heres what the slice looks like so as I said you really don’t need to worry about smoothing groups.

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Manual supports again but more refined as I’m getting the hang of what I’m doing.

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No warping and very little wobble. And even so it’ll all be hidden.

The detail came out well what little there is. 

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A nice solid structure on the inside.

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And another shot of the detail with my sweaty covid hand just for scale.

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A quick dry fit and the front and back are there.

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And the front.

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As mentioned I’m not going to re print the front as the bits I need are fine but I’ll re build the digital portion for when I make the other two.

 

Thank you all for tagging along and helping me with print probs. I haven’t had this much fun in yonks.

 

Johnny Covids

 

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