The Spadgent Posted October 6, 2021 Author Share Posted October 6, 2021 All valid comments. I think the best course of action here is what ever works baby. 🤗 In Modelling I don’t believe there is a right and wrong way to do anything. It’s a hobby and if it makes you happy go with it. But just to confirm setting to MM in max and also setting the base units to MM tally’s up with Chitu box. I exported as a.STL Digital Model then the print. And a scale comparison. It’s actually the same size as  the kit part but the colour difference fools your eyes. They are about 11 mm ish.  That’s one hurdle jumped. Thanks for the help.  Johnny   1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jo NZ Posted October 6, 2021 Share Posted October 6, 2021 13 hours ago, bootneck said:  As for being called a Numpty for not drawing to full size, at least I am drawing them myself and not downloading other's work; and then blaming them for it.  I must admit that I didn't realise that the on-line tuition was quite that bad! In my defence, I'm printing car bodies for a mate who is creating every NZ Rally winner - and he found an Opel Corsa (not available as a kit) and a Ford Taunus estate - close enough to hack into a MkII Cortina Lotus.... My real grief is not that these guys don't draw in 1:1, it's the fact that they don't draw to any particular scale, don't tell you what it is, and then charge you for it! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Twobad Posted October 7, 2021 Share Posted October 7, 2021 I'm self taught at the CAD thing, but have always drawn the models full size, either in inches or mm depending on the subject and source material. I do export the STLs at the size I intend to print at though, rather than scale within the slicing software.  I find that specific models are required for specific scales anyway, particularly when going smaller. Wall thicknesses are the big bugbear there. What will print at 1:8 will not always work at 1:32. Going in the opposite direction often means that the model would be better broken up into smaller sections for ease of printing, and hollowed out too. Hence, I end up with specific models tailored to each scale, all drawn full scale... 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
malpaso Posted October 7, 2021 Share Posted October 7, 2021 Having done CAD (in architecture) for over 30 years and more recently 3D “intelligent” (haha) modelling, 1:1 is the way to go.  But that said if you are making a scale model ( thinking particularly about product design, the full size item IS the 1/24 ( or whatever) subject.  If designing a tool for model manufacture it will be more intuitive to design the model part thicknesses as 1/1  than have to multiply by the scale factor to get them right.  For example a real car is made of around 0.5mm steel, if you work in 1/1 that’s a 1/24 model thickness of 0.021 mm which would be unworkable.  But considering the other way round the product designer would design the wall thickness as say 2mm even if the outer shape was derived from a scaled down LIDAR scan! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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