Charles H Posted September 30, 2021 Share Posted September 30, 2021 Hi everyone. Please, a few newbie questions, as I feel overwhelmed with differing information I've read and watched in general, about some basic painting-related questions (1:72 aircraft). Firstly, I will use the term "enamel" to mean oil-based here, and "acrylic" to mean water-based. All test decals were applied using Tamiya softener-type decal adhesive. Sorry for length; trying to ensure there is no confusion what I've used and done, right or wrong - absolutely all observations here are purely my own. All coats had a lot more drying time than necessary. Building an Italeri "Gulf War" scheme Panavia Tornado, I've used two coats Humbrol enamel 01 primer, thinned with Humbrol enamel thinners, followed by three water-thinned topcoats of Vallejo [matt] acrylic Model Colour "brown sand". Happy with result! I then experimented on scrap parts, which I had previously painted in exactly the same way. First I put a coat of Humbrol enamel clear gloss Cote on a small area, and placed a spare decal half on top of this, and half on top of the uncoated acrylic topcoat. Despite absolutely understanding decals are supposed to seat better on gloss finish than on matt, I can't tell any difference at all, sorry! Furthermore, when I applied enamel clear matt coat over the gloss coat, it still looks very different to the uncoated acrylic topcoat. I could theorise this method is more important/effective when setting decals over matt or satin enamel topcoat, also previously coated with enamel clear gloss cote(?)... but I've actually done this on the only other model I've ever made recently (Hasegawa Mig-29). The decals looked great, but the Humbrol matt clear cote (3 coats) does not seem to have effectively covered the gloss clear Cote. It still looks "toy-ishly" glossy! ________________________________________________________________________________________________________________ I've never used Panel Line Accent Color before, but wish to try it (Tamiya dark grey; #87199; says it is oil-based) on my Tornado, as I love results shown on BM! I'm colour-blind, so have to "paint by numbers" only (weathering will be totally beyond me), but that is no barrier to accentuating panels. Again, an avalanche of differing information. I have not yet experimented on scrap, sorry. It is my understanding that it is safe to use this over the [Tornado's] Vallejo acrylic topcoat, that I leave it to dry for 30 minutes or so, then clean up inevitable "bleeds" with white spirits or turpentine, or even lighter fluid. I propose using white spirits. This means I am assuming it won't harm the Vallejo acrylic, either! ANY comments appreciated, please! cheers, Charles Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ckw Posted September 30, 2021 Share Posted September 30, 2021 9 minutes ago, Charles H said: Despite absolutely understanding decals are supposed to seat better on gloss finish than on matt, I can't tell any difference at all, sorry! The surface does not need to be glossy - just smooth. Some matt finishes can be a little rough, glossing can smooth it out. Also decals vary as to their ability to conform to the surface. You'll doubtless find what works well on one kit does not work on another. 13 minutes ago, Charles H said: but the Humbrol matt clear cote (3 coats) does not seem to have effectively covered the gloss clear Cote. It still looks "toy-ishly" glossy! Humbrol is tricky - their quality control seems to have collapsed in recent years. One jar works as expected, the next won't. One thing though - you need to stir Humbrol a long time. And then as much again. I suggest you try something else - Winsor and Newton Galleria flat gives a nice hassle free matt finish. Cheers Colin Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Charles H Posted September 30, 2021 Author Share Posted September 30, 2021 Colin (ckw) - thank you! You have helped me before. Once again, I think the message to me is to CHECK pretty much everything on scrap, on EVERY kit, and not just "assume" anything. I'm sheepish to say... I don't recall actually shaking or stirring either the gloss or matt Humbrol clear Cotes. I think I just didn't think - as in assuming they were simply homogenous (like pasteurised milk)! Of course I will try this simple but vital experiment immediately. "Normal" paint I stir very thoroughly, just like house paint... but somehow this didn't extend to the Humbrol clear Cotes. Secondly... finally I hear you (and others) about things Humbrol. Naively, as a kid, all I knew was Humbrol paints and Airfix kits, through my father; maybe Frog "stringbag" kits too, but IIRC I never had any of them. I was incredibly naive in just about everything, and am only now learning (modeling-wise) that this is so. I will suss out availability of other brands, including Winsor and Newton Galleria. Literally, the Tornado was the first time I have EVER used an acrylic paint, AND the first time it wasn't Humbrol enamel. Most of my Humbrol tins are very old, too - not that I notice anything much better in the newer ones I have. Here in Adelaide, currently, model paint is not in very good stock, and I believe there are quite a few rules about international shipping these days. Thanks again for Lesson One, Colin! I'll report soon about my "stirring" homework... and I do very much like the Vallejo matt Model Colour on my Tornado. regards, Charles Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ckw Posted September 30, 2021 Share Posted September 30, 2021 21 minutes ago, Charles H said: I don't recall actually shaking or stirring either the gloss or matt Humbrol clear Cotes. Matt varnishes are particularly important to stir well as the agent that actually makes the varnish matt tends to settle to the bottom - without out a good stir. you're applying gloss! Humbrol is a sad story - their authentic range from many many years ago was one of the best paints I ever used. Unfortunately I've now used up my stock. Certainly the composition of modern Humbrol has changed - possibly ingredients have changed due to cost cutting or health and safety ... maybe both. The most annoying thing is the inconsistency - one tin of paint is just fine, others an unusable gloopy mess. Cheers Colin Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Space Ranger Posted September 30, 2021 Share Posted September 30, 2021 I would advise you to check out Paul Budzik's "Scale Modeling Workshop" videos on YouTube for hints and tips. He has what is in my opinion the very best tutorial on decal application: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=L_rdwH1EGus 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Charles H Posted October 1, 2021 Author Share Posted October 1, 2021 Space Ranger - heading to the link you provided now. Thank you very much! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Space Ranger Posted October 1, 2021 Share Posted October 1, 2021 2 hours ago, Charles H said: Space Ranger - heading to the link you provided now. Thank you very much! You're most welcome. Be sure to check out his other videos as well. They comprise an advanced course in model building. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Charles H Posted October 1, 2021 Author Share Posted October 1, 2021 Space Ranger - I am on my fourth video, I've subscribed to the channel (a first for me). Indeed, a most excellent resource, thank you again! cheers, Charles 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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