1/35 Ian McQue's Remora flying boat [scratch build]

[voozet]

The hull painted wih primer. I  could say: finally.

So far I have used an airbrush and acrylic Vallejo primers but these were able to peel off with strong weatharing. Now i used mr surfacer spray for the first time and overall i am satisfied. With an accent on 'overall'.

 

 

The paint extracts the details well, especially since I managed not to flood them.

 

 

 

An unpleasant surprise was that the drawings made with the marker are resistant to paint. You can see them despite being covered with a several layers of primer. I think it's a matter of the chemical composition of the marker ink. I think any of my primers would have a problem with that. And to be honest I don't know what to do with it. I'll think about it tomorrow like a certain Scarlett. Maybe you have any suggestions?

 

It also exstracts my mistakes 😉 The photo below shows cracks in the plastic and errors during puttying/ sanding. I do not want to correct it again, so I will use it to imitate damages of the hull plates.

 

Orange peel has appeared in some places but this may be due to the low temperature in the garage. This is an extreme example.

 

I installed a makeshift handle in the deck openings so as not to touch the model while painting. But this made it impossible to paint the harder-to-reach places. That would have been easier with an airbrush I think.

 

The advantage is undoubtedly the short drying and hardening time. But all in all, I'm not sure if a spray primer is a good solution for me. 

 

I guess I will not paint it again because now I'm going to use a different primer as a base color. It will be an acrylic Red Rust from Green Stuff World. I heard many positive opinions about it, now I will check how true they are. My models tend to be very rusty so that is also a solution for the future: combining primer and base color in one paint.

 

I've made also next small steps with the hooded crewman.

The primer makes imperfections clearly visible, so first I check what I have to do and what I can do. Red marker makes it even easier to see 😁

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

And repeat: after drying, carving with a knife and sanding. 

 

Dude looks a bit like a kendo fighter doesn't he? I have protected face and hands against another layer of paint so as not to flood the details.

 

And after next priming.

 

Thanks for looking. 

W.

[Hunter Rose]

Ooo primer! Nice seeing it all one colour.

That's a shame about the red marker, is it possible to maybe sand it off then reprime? 

[Pete in Lincs]

I agree. I think you'll have to sand back down to the plastic to get rid of the marker ink. 

You don't want to do more cosmetic stuff but primer always shows up cracks etc so you'll need filler and then sanding anyway.

Having said that, it looks great in a single colour. Just like it was meant to be that shape. The figure looks good too.

[voozet]

2 hours ago, Hunter Rose said:

That's a shame about the red marker, is it possible to maybe sand it off then reprime? 

 

1 hour ago, Pete in Lincs said:

I think you'll have to sand back down to the plastic to get rid of the marker ink. 

I see several possible ways to fix this. One of them is what you propose. Or I can just tape it over and paint it with a next primer. It will look like an extra sheet/plate. I can also leave it unchanged. The lined area shows that this part of the hull will be covered by the rudder. Theoretically - also a marker ink. The next layer of paint will be red-rusty, so it will work like a filter: even if the marker penetrates the paint, it will be barely visible or invisible.

[Hunter Rose]

2 minutes ago, voozet said:

Or I can just tape it over and paint it with a next primer. It will look like an extra sheet/plate

 

Yeah that sounds like a simple solution if you know the new primer will cover the marker, think that's what I'd do

[Konrad Popławski]

Ink markesrs can be easly removed with isopropanol alkochol. But use a good quality one like 99,9% from Kryptontek, . Good IPA You can easly obtain it Poland: https://allegro.pl/oferta/alkohol-izopropylowy-izopropanol-ipa-1000-ml-99-9-9276450430 . Then steal some cotton pads from whife makeup stuff 🥸 adsn use it.

In your case it will probably remove some of the primer (optimal was using it before priming). I strongly sugest give it a try. One more thing: priming is good it shows all imperfections as it should do before painting. Now you can spot all mistakes and fix tem. All is fine - it is a natural proces.

Next time use a very thin (far from complete covarage) citadel wargaming primer. Its super durable (You know wargaming miniatures must be protected well - all that constant finger touching and accidental falls on the floor ). And then Your final primer - it will adhere to surface much better.

Last thing - try using darker tone of the primer thirst - get benefits from preashading

 

mr surfacer 1500 is my favorite finish primer (yes i use preprimers and then finishing primers). You MUST use dedicated thiner with retarder (already inside it): mr leveling thinner. Aceton is not a good option here. You need nitrocellulose solvent. Belive me it makes a diffrence.

[voozet]

Thanks for the advice.

Where the marker is not covered by anything, I washed it with isopropanol, as advised by @Konrad Popławski. It actually removed the paint, which is good news, because I was wondering how to wash off this type of primer if something went wrong. Now I know it

 

16 hours ago, Konrad Popławski said:

Last thing - try using darker tone of the primer thirst - get benefits from preashading

 

That's the plan only that a light gray primer is what you call a pre-primer. Now I painted all the elements of the model with a next primer, which is also the base color for creating rust. I will try to diversify this layer as much as possible, and then I will apply glossy varnish and chipping medium. I assumed the hull would be blue, and roughly 30 percent of the surface would be exposed rust.

 

 

As expected, the red tone paint hid the remaining ink marks completely. The only question is whether they will not reappear on a paint of a different color 🤔

 

 

 

Thanks for looking.

W.

 

 

[Alan R]

I love that!

Looks real, if a fantasy ship can be real

 

Cheers,

Alan.

[voozet]

@Alan R thanks a lot!

 

**************

The first step of painting was to diversificate the first layer of color, i.e. rust, which would be exposed in places. Boredom 😁

 

I rarely paint so I'm never sure of my skills. That's why I started with small parts in case something went wrong. This gives me time to practice before painting the hull.

The wooden part of the deck seems to be finished.

 

There will be a lot more work with the rudders. First I painted them with acrylic paints and maked chippings.

 

 

 

Next step will be oil washes and pigments.

Thanks for looking.

W.

 

[Lazy Modeller]

Astonishing work! Love every bit!

Cheers

Lazy modeler was here!

[Hunter Rose]

That looks really good! Love a rusty finish 

[Pete in Lincs]

The paint brings it all together. Fabulous to watch.

[voozet]

Thanks for kind words. This is important to me because painting is outside my comfort zone. Building is easy for me, painting unfortunately not. I paint because I have to.

Now I'm in the process of choosing the hull and deck color scheme. I started with quite a mistake. I applied a coat of Vallejo Pale Blue on the rusty cargo platform. But as I started scratching, I realized I forgot about the chipping medium. Besides, I started to doubt if I chose the right color.

 

 

As part of the test, I painted deck hatch with the Vallejo off white. This is how the comparison of both elements looks like (none of them are finished, they still need weathering). In my opinion, white will be better.

 

In the meantime, I also started painting barrels. GSW rusty red primer then Vallejo flat brown and then sealed with satin varnish.

 

Edit:

The rudders are finished.

 

 

Thanks for looking.

W.

Edited January 29, 2022 by voozet
Photos added

[voozet]

I have finished painting the cargo platform and the oil drums that will be placed on it. Pale blue didn't look good in my opinion, that's why I repainted it, using vallejo off white, before that I put a layer of chipping medium. And I did the chippings again, this time exposing a layer of pale blue and earlier coats of rust. Then i weathered it using pigments and AK's engine oil enamel color.

 

 

 

I painted the yellow drums with Tamiya X-14, and then vallejo game color yellow ink (with a drop of light rust wash). The blue are painted with vallejo game color electric blue and then game color blue ink.

 

 

 

I also installed a fire hose box.

 

 

 

Thanks for looking.

W.

 

 

[Pete in Lincs]

Fabulous painting. 

[voozet]

Thanks Pete.

 

I couldn't delay painting the hull anymore so finally started it

I use AK Worn Effects for chipping, that's why I had to paint in stages. I used to use two AK's products once: Heavy chippings and Worn effects. I liked the first one more so I quickly finished it and I was forced to use Worn Effects. It was then that I noticed that it is actually much better, because if the paint is still wet, it works like heavy chippings medium, and when the paint dries a bit - it is perfect for small scratches. In this case, I will be doing really big rusty surfaces so I have to paint and scratch on the same day. That's why I work in stages.

I started with the port side (I guess that's what it's called in English).

 

This time I want to weathering a bit differently than usual. In the meantime, I've become a huge fan of pigments. I have a few rusty Vallejo and AK Interactive products, and a few that I made myself from dry pastels. The advantage of this is that it simulates the color and texture of the rust at the same time. Here you can see the matting effect of the pigment (the application is not finished, it is just started but I like it very much).

 

 

And here are some details.

 

However, here you can see a crack in the hull, which is my mistake in puttying. In my opinion, with such rusty hull plates, the cracks and gaps are natural, so I'm not going to fix it

 

In the following days I will be painting the rear of the ship and the starboard. Then the pigments, varnish and washes.

Thanks for looking.

[Pete in Lincs]

1 hour ago, voozet said:

I started with the port side (I guess that's what it's called in English).

It is. AFAIR, it was the side that was against the Port or Dock. The righthand side (pre rudder ships) had the steering board fitted, Hence, Starboard.

I like the rust. I've had a go with pastels too. Good fun. Good decision on the crack. It's not like it will sink, will it?

[Hunter Rose]

2 hours ago, voozet said:

I've become a huge fan of pigments

 

Yeah they're like magic dust! Once I started using them they blew my mind and became a big part of my modelling process. 

 

It's looking great! Even at this early stage the patchy rustyness of it all is very effective 

[voozet]

1 hour ago, Pete in Lincs said:

I like the rust. I've had a go with pastels too. Good fun

 

13 minutes ago, Hunter Rose said:

Yeah they're like magic dust!

I have a box of dry pastels from the time when I was painter 😝, many are crumbled. I beat them in a kitchen mortar, creating the colors I need.

 

1 hour ago, Pete in Lincs said:

it was the side that was against the Port or Dock. The righthand side (pre rudder ships) had the steering board fitted, Hence, Starboard

Thanks for the clarification. In Polish they are 'sterburta' and 'bakburta' but the names are supposedly derived from Dutch (don't ask me why Dutch).

1 hour ago, Pete in Lincs said:

It's not like it will sink, will it?

I don't sink.. yyyy... think so.

[Andrés S.]

That you are not sure of your painting skills?   😳😳😳

 

In my opinion your painting skills are as high as building. I mean very high.

 

Andrés S.

 

[Andy Moore]

 

 

It's looking great in paint. Well, it was looking great before as well, but even more so now. I love all the chipping and weathering effects you're applying.

 

Andy

[Richard E]

22 hours ago, voozet said:

However, here you can see a crack in the hull, which is my mistake in puttying. In my opinion, with such rusty hull plates, the cracks and gaps are natural, so I'm not going to fix it

 

 

 

 

Truly outstanding work and your perseverance is paying off.

 

Thinking about some of the cracks, could you add some engineer's chalk marks showing where repairs need to be made next time the boat is in dock for long enough?

[voozet]

On 06/02/2022 at 18:03, Richard E said:

could you add some engineer's chalk marks showing where repairs need to be made

Of course I could but I have no idea what these marks look like. I tried to find on the internet but google only found chalk shops 🙂

[Richard E]

1 hour ago, voozet said:

Of course I could but I have no idea what these marks look like. I tried to find on the internet but google only found chalk shops 🙂

 

Hopefully these might help

 

[The Chief Smeg]

On 2/7/2022 at 10:44 PM, Richard E said:

 

Hopefully these might help

 

These are Weld symbols, never knew they would be chalked onto stuff to indicate repairs - I work on big things for my day job, but this kind of marked repair is for REALLY big things