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Vallejo Washes


Slammer88

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Hi everyone,

 

I just wonder if it's possible to recreate the Model Wash'es with any Model Air or Model Color paint by over-diluting or some other way, so that color variation will be much more and will be more economical, as I have tons of these colors in my stock.

 

Anyone tried such a thing before?

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2 hours ago, Slammer88 said:

Hi everyone,

 

I just wonder if it's possible to recreate the Model Wash'es with any Model Air or Model Color paint by over-diluting or some other way, so that color variation will be much more and will be more economical, as I have tons of these colors in my stock.

 

Anyone tried such a thing before?

Vallejo do an acrylic glaze, medium,  which thins down the their paint for glazes.

 

I have some vallejo washes, I wasn't that taken,  maybe I need to ad flow improver.   Water is quite 'thick' due to surface tension,. ,  by this I've found using oil paint diluted with lighter fuel works really well, lighter fuel is really 'thin'  I have used it neat over Model Color with no problems, it dries really fast and have then over varnished with Windsor and Newton Galleria acrylic with no issues.

 

If you want to make a Vallejo wash I'd suggest experimenting with a mix of acrylic vanish, water and a bit of flow improver.. if no flow improver, a tiny amount of washing up liquid at a push will do the same.    

 

PS re this http://barracudacals.blogspot.com/2015/12/how-to-paint-resin-seat-with-molded-in.html

"

To really pop out the detail and bring the belts to life, a wash is now applied using my patented ,exclusive, super secret, never-before-seen-on-TV Future Wash.  This is the best was I've ever used on detail areas. It works wonders in gearbays and cockpits and wheel hubs and the like. Its not good for external panel washes, though.

 

Mix 1 part Future floor wax (now called Pledge Floor Care and by other brand names such as Johnson's Klear overseas.) with 1 part water. Add a small amount of Acrylic black paint (I use Vallejo) and stir to make a very pale wash. Try it on some test pieces. Flood the area with the wash and watch it collect in corners, creating subtle gradated shadows when it dries. The advantage is that the pigment never breaks up like enamel washes do. Experiment with the concentration til you find what works for you. If its too subtle. Go back and apply a second coat once the first has dried." 

 

this dries glossy, but you can see the idea.  

 

A lot of modelling products can be made, or other ones used,  just companies know they can sell small bottle or pots as for more if they have 'modeller' written on it..... what, me, cynical? 

 

 

HTH

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