Tamiya Peugeot 307 wrc decals

[alteregoni]

Hi all! 

 

So the decals were cooked. Especially white stripe ones cracked even in slightest movement. Also they were really stuck on backing papers. Seems that adhesive was dried out. I have used much older Tamiya decals without issue, but these are gone. 

Or might be that this was user error. 

 

Does anyone know is there original "Marlboro" looking decals available on any brand? Problem is, that everything is already painted in red. 

Cheers Pekka

[Ade H]

I just checked Hiroboy for you to see if any decals for other kits may be usable, but none is white as far as I can tell: all black (mostly for McLaren schemes) or white italic (obviously not suitable). I suggest that you either have some custom masks made (or make your own if it's just obfuscated barcode logos) and paint them or try to buy replacement decals from your country's Tamiya distributor (which is not easy based on my experience of this country's distributor, but yours may be more helpful).

 

Having recently suffered the same as you with white decals in Tamiya's Suzuki kit, I will be avoiding this combination in future.

Edited September 11, 2021 by Ade H

[alteregoni]

I have too searched in depths of internet but was not able to find any. Tons of different scheme are viable, but then is this color issue. 

 

I'v used Tamiya Strong Decal softener, and still decal cracked. Even when I tried to correct position it split in halves. 

While ago I build Italeri old Scania to my brother, and decals were really suspicious, but they were great. And that kit was from 90'. Is it something to do with white color of the decal, don't know,or it this Tamiya's own decal issue... 

[Ade H]

In my bitter experience, when Tamiya wants white decals, its supplier layers it very thickly, and that's what makes them so inflexible. Strong decal solvent may even be counter productive. Mine broke with Ammo's solvent.

 

I was going to ask if you could post a photo or otherwise describe exactly which decals you need, in case my assumptions are wrong and my advice inappropriate. I've just searched for photos of your kit and I'd say that there are solutions, but I would need to know exactly which decals failed.

[keefr22]

I'm not 100% sure what you're looking for, but Modelworks say they have this sheet of generic Marlboro logos in stock - it says 1/18 & 1/20 but some may be a suitable size?

 

https://www.modelworks.co.uk/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=226&search=marlboro

 

However the 307 ran in many events with just white squares in place of the Marlboro logos and they should be easy enough to mask and spray along with the stripes.

 

Alternatively Spotmodel have a few different aftermarket decal sheets for the 307 in defferent schemes.

 

Keith

 

 

 

[alteregoni]

1 hour ago, Ade H said:

In my bitter experience, when Tamiya wants white decals, its supplier layers it very thickly, and that's what makes them so inflexible. Strong decal solvent may even be counter productive. Mine broke with Ammo's solvent.

 

I was going to ask if you could post a photo or otherwise describe exactly which decals you need, in case my assumptions are wrong and my advice inappropriate. I've just searched for photos of your kit and I'd say that there are solutions, but I would need to know exactly which decals failed.

Sorry about bad picture. Decals what i meant are just like number 11 on the left. And it goes there where my majestic photo shop skills show 

 

So some bending to do. And yes, I guess those could be painted also, but there are many of those so masking job is not so tempting. And it already clear coated once to protect those white decals to become pink. So paint layers could come quite big, if you want those parts to be white. Also I'm planning to put some 2k clear on top of everything. 

[Ade H]

Thanks very much for taking the photo. That helps a lot. I appreciate your concerns, but I would still recommend that you mask and paint all of those white stripes (which is what I would have done anyway if I had this kit). If these decals are as thick as I suspect, you're not going to make things any thicker with paint.

A varnish would not have prevented the white decals from looking pink if they are not opaque, though, unless I misunderstood your rationale. If white decals are not opaque, there's no easy magic fix.

Edited September 11, 2021 by Ade H

[alteregoni]

Yes I really have to talk to myself😂, am I really upp to task to paint those white stripes. The trust is not huge to my skills in this job. 

There is one "Astra"  decal set from Studio 27 and Renessaince, what goes with red, but it is not really good looking scheme. Well it is Gardemaisters car thou... 

Maybe I start interior and se if seat decals etc. are okey. 

 

Pekka

 

[Windy37]

Hi Pekka , I built this kit when it was new on the market and added black Marlboro lettering from an aftermarket decal supplier, the name of which I have long forgot !  I have been building a Marlboro backed Nissan rally car , which can be found on the Work In Progress section on here . I bought a generic Marlboro decal kit from Spotmodels and it has sizes to fit a variety of kit sizes . I , like the others , would mask up and spray those white stripes if you are concerned about applying them . On my 307 I used the decal stripes , but it was brand new then . 
Hope this helps  , Gary . 

[keefr22]

4 hours ago, Ade H said:

A varnish would not have prevented the white decals from looking pink if they are not opaque, though, unless I misunderstood your rationale. If white decals are not opaque, there's no easy magic fix.

 

I fully agree, I've seen a couple of youtube video builders suggest clear coats will prevent paint bleed through on white decals - I think that's absolute nonsense!

 

Only way I've ever got round this is to mask and spray white areas under the decals (if there's lettering or the like on the white decals which means the areas can't just be sprayed white) or to trace the kit decals and cut out backing sheets from white decal paper.

 

Keith

[alteregoni]

Thanks for the info, is it due clear eating through decals then? 

I found some decals to go with red from ebay. Some French manufacturer called Rallye-Miniatyre. Never heard of that before, thou they have web shop and Facebook account. 

But don't know anymore, what to do. I afraid that I'm too weak hearted to paint white stripes. Body is very close to go swimming in brake fluid😜. 

Little bit fell on Studio 27 "Yacco" livery.

 

This build had been one those "those" build's.

I failed painting, surprise suprise, 😅white stripe on rear wing. So paint stripping it goes. And what idiot of me did? Dip it into thinner!! 🎉🎉🎉😭😁. And guess what? Yes, correct melted a little bit. Cladly I realized my fatal error quite soon, and washed thinner away pretty fast. But of course surface on that piece was little bit critty. So some major putty worth there. 

But we live and learn. 

 

Huge thanks all of for the help and tips! Really appreciate it. 

 

Pekka

 

Edit. Ps

Is brake fluid best way to strip paint? I'v used Tamiya LP paints and primer is MR.Surfacer 

 

Edited September 11, 2021 by alteregoni

[Ade H]

I hear you! I have had many of "those" builds. We certainly live and learn, often accompanied by a ba-dunk sound as the omnishambles mysteriously slips off the desk into a waiting bin! 😢

Is brake fluid best? If it works, that's fine. There is, I'm told, a specific type to use and some types to avoid but I'm not sure what. I use isopropanol, old toothbrushes, and elbow grease because it's cheap, not too toxic, and needs no further cleaning before paint.

17 minutes ago, alteregoni said:

is it due clear eating through decals then?

It won't harm them from underneath, no. It's just that Keith and I can't see the point of using it in an attempt to stop red paint showing through. Either it will show through white decals or it won't. At least with paint, you have control over opacity, whereas decals are what they are.

That's not saying that a varnish is never worthwhile, as it can be used to stop decal solvent from melting paint. Which I've managed to do! 😳

[alteregoni]

Thanks! I give isopropanol a go! 

[keefr22]

The brake fluid I use for stripping painted bodies (quite often!) is DOT4, like this;

 

https://www.halfords.com/motoring/engine-oils-and-fluids/brake-clutch-fluid/comma-dot-4-brake-fluid-500ml-124440.html?istCompanyId=b8708c57-7a02-4cf6-b2c0-dc36b54a327e&istFeedId=367c5610-f937-4c81-8609-f84582324cd6&istItemId=rtartpir&istBid=t&_$ja=tsid:|cid:14297415498|agid:124576971583|tid:pla-328085909409|crid:539302034289|nw:u|rnd:11748972447960574595|dvc:c|adp:|mt:|loc:1007460&gclid=CjwKCAjwp_GJBhBmEiwALWBQk1BBMAw_1-4J_FPDunAssw2WkOSpdsXI02beHAJn8zem4-ij7TuXOBoC8HkQAvD_BwE

 

Keith

[alteregoni]

Thank you for the tip. I will get Dot4 fluid also. I think I'v used that fluid to strip Tamiya acryl paint, and Tamiya primer went of with brake cleaner (isopropanol?) Sometimes I have just sanded paint down, but that is not what I prefer, because you can lose shape and detail on piece itself. 

 

Has anyone tried those paint strippers that Zero and other sell? Are they same stuff than these? I have also industrial paint stripper, but it could effect plastic.