How are the mighty fallen! - British Mk. V Tank - FINISHED, COMPLETED AND DONE!

[Lazy Modeller]

Ill stay away from that GB I think don't understand s... about them all... to much talking for my lousy English...don't understand all that chatting for...too much things and placers and so on...

Cheers

LM

[Bertie McBoatface]

37 minutes ago, Lazy Modeller said:

Ill stay away from that GB I think don't understand s... about them all... to much talking for my lousy English...don't understand all that chatting for...too much things and placers and so on...

Cheers

LM

 

I don't blame you. It's very complicated!

[Model Mate]

I feel your pain, and I'm probably in a similar position re oils/acrylics for figures. At the moment, I've been azimuthal pre-shading (like you) using enamels, spraying/hairy-stick painting acrylic for the block colours and then using oils for shadow wash(es) and this approach seems to be working for me for now.

Your Tommy looks pretty good if you ask me - I think with a judicious oil wash he'd look really good - stick with it! Vallejo IJN brown seems to be a decent match for WW1 British uniforms I think by the way.

For the flesh bits, I've been using Vallejo "medium flesh" and "basic skin tone". The medium flesh is a bit well-tanned, so I mix with the other (which is a light pink - modeller's sun tan) for the base coat. Then the shadow areas are the medium flesh, darkened a little with some brown, and the highlights are neat "basic skin tone". A burnt umber wash goes quite well over this, which is just as well, as it's also what I wash the uniform with. The uniform then gets an additional wash with slightly darkened burnt umber (or raw umber instead). If you leave it for a couple of hours and then "dry-brush" with a clean, slightly-white-spirit-dampened flat brush, the highlights get cleaned back to the base colour. Finish off with light matt varnish and it all becomes clear.

But really, stick with what you're doing; the tank looks fantastic, and the figure doesn't look out of place. I'm sure you'll end up with a brilliant overall result.

[Bertie McBoatface]

I really got into a 'flow state' today. I spent three hours fettling, improving and polishing the fourteen parts of the officer figure. I hope no-one will be able to find a parting line on this one! 

 

 

You will have counted only thirteen but the huge collar on the guy's trench coat was a separate item of such an awkward shape that it was easier to glue it to the torso before thinning it down.

 

 

Look at that; they moulded veins on the back of his hand. And just to remind you all of the true size of this masterpiece from Master Box...

 

 

How about that? I took the photo before I tidied it up, by the way.

 

 

The face is also really good for the scale and medium. 

 

 

The medium, injection moulded plastic, does impose its limitations. Without slide moulding, which I think is impractical on something so small and organic, they can't detail the sides.

 

 

However, with a bit of patience and a few sharp objects, it's possible to carve your own detail. And he's got a big collar on his coat remember, as well as a battle bowler so this won't be subject to much scrutiny when it's all put together.

 

And that reminds me, it might be possible to assemble this bloke and his legs as separate sub assemblies and paint him in two pieces - with the airbrush! We'll find out for sure tomorrow.

 

 

[THEscaleSHOW]

20 hours ago, Bertie Psmith said:

I really got into a 'flow state' today. I spent three hours fettling, improving and polishing the fourteen parts of the officer figure. I hope no-one will be able to find a parting line on this one! 

 

 

You will have counted only thirteen but the huge collar on the guy's trench coat was a separate item of such an awkward shape that it was easier to glue it to the torso before thinning it down.

 

 

Look at that; they moulded veins on the back of his hand. And just to remind you all of the true size of this masterpiece from Master Box...

 

 

How about that? I took the photo before I tidied it up, by the way.

 

 

The face is also really good for the scale and medium. 

 

 

The medium, injection moulded plastic, does impose its limitations. Without slide moulding, which I think is impractical on something so small and organic, they can't detail the sides.

 

 

However, with a bit of patience and a few sharp objects, it's possible to carve your own detail. And he's got a big collar on his coat remember, as well as a battle bowler so this won't be subject to much scrutiny when it's all put together.

 

And that reminds me, it might be possible to assemble this bloke and his legs as separate sub assemblies and paint him in two pieces - with the airbrush! We'll find out for sure tomorrow.

 

 

Hello Bertie

 

Thanks for pictures of the figure.
The set is very nice and the info can be used well.
As for the painting, so this is indeed always a small challenge - especially the skin tones.
Do not make yourself crazy, I can tell you from experience that only steady practice brings success.
You will get better from figure to figure with the necessary nerves and will, I guarantee you.
To apply the base color quickly and easily, I always use my AB.
A good primer is important.
Some take a light one and thus have the eyes "almost" ready, the others darker and thus achieve the first shadows.
If acrylic glazes are not your case, I would do the fine details with oil paints. They are also much easier to blend than acrylic.
I have posted 2 pictures-maybe you can use them.
In any case, good luck!

MD

 

in all 3, the base (horizontal from the front), the shadow (45° oblique from below) and the highlights (45° oblique from above) are painted only with the AB.
Left somewhat reddish, middle brownish, right yellowish base depending on taste and use.
The head in the middle already has eyes, an iris is unnecessary at this scale in my opinion.
Use for each layer 70% diluted color in matte. This works well later for the oils.

 

I have zoomed the head extra large so that you can see the individual colors well.
These are the final details with oil colors.
Apply only one tone at a time, then wait about 15-20 minutes and blend with a clean brush (preferably with a half-round tip) with the acrylic base.
The brush should be dry without thinner, otherwise everything smears into a single lump of paint.

 

Cheers!

[Bertie McBoatface]

With the New Year full of GB's to which I've signed up, I'm going to give myself a deadline here. This project must be finished before the holidays and this thread will come to an end on Christmas Eve! That's quite a tight schedule I'm setting so I'll have to buck myself up a bit! (So far today, I've done nowt!)

 

 

[Bertie McBoatface]

3 hours ago, THEscaleSHOW said:

Hello Bertie

 

Thanks for pictures of the figure.
The set is very nice and the info can be used well.
As for the painting, so this is indeed always a small challenge - especially the skin tones.
Do not make yourself crazy, I can tell you from experience that only steady practice brings success.
You will get better from figure to figure with the necessary nerves and will, I guarantee you.
To apply the base color quickly and easily, I always use my AB.
A good primer is important.
Some take a light one and thus have the eyes "almost" ready, the others darker and thus achieve the first shadows.
If acrylic glazes are not your case, I would do the fine details with oil paints. They are also much easier to blend than acrylic.
I have posted 2 pictures-maybe you can use them.
In any case, good luck!

MD

 

in all 3, the base (horizontal from the front), the shadow (45° oblique from below) and the highlights (45° oblique from above) are painted only with the AB.
Left somewhat reddish, middle brownish, right yellowish base depending on taste and use.
The head in the middle already has eyes, an iris is unnecessary at this scale in my opinion.
Use for each layer 70% diluted color in matte. This works well later for the oils.

 

I have zoomed the head extra large so that you can see the individual colors well.
These are the final details with oil colors.
Apply only one tone at a time, then wait about 15-20 minutes and blend with a clean brush (preferably with a half-round tip) with the acrylic base.
The brush should be dry without thinner, otherwise everything smears into a single lump of paint.

 

Cheers!

 

Thank you for taking the trouble to write this magnificent introduction to figure painting. It must have taken hours!

[Bertie McBoatface]

3 hours ago, THEscaleSHOW said:

Do not make yourself crazy

 

Alas, that advice comes far too late. 😜 😜 😜 😜 😜 😜 😜 😜 😜 😜 😜 😜 😜 😜 😜 😜 😜 😜 😜         

[Bertie McBoatface]

I bucked up just a tiny bit and even though I wasn't in the mood, forced myself to the desk. As soon as I sat down, I found I was in the mood and enjoyed a little bit of careful assembly.

 

 

I actually sub-assembled the officer. Next I'll sort out the joints with UV setting resin and then paint him in pieces. Otherwise that beautifully cut trench coat will obstruct my access with paintbrush or airbrush to both his head and his legs. On the other hand, that coat will also conceal the final joins at head and waist while the tin hat will hide its own joint to the top of his head. Brilliant design on the part of the sculptor.

 

You'll notice that the head on a pole is upside down? That's so I can make the neck join without having to hold the actual head in my fingers. If I did that I wouldn't be able to see what I was doing and I'd inevitably get glue on the collar or have him facing backwards or something.

 

If he comes out alright, I could use him with his back to the tank and arm stretched out towards it, saying to his troops, "That, my lads, is why you don't want to volunteer for the Tank Regiment! Rather dangerous, what!"

 

[JeroenS]

Or, he says, "You're late one more time Jonesy and I'm sending you off in one of these!"

[Bertie McBoatface]

9 minutes ago, JeroenS said:

Or, he says, "You're late one more time Jonesy and I'm sending you off in one of these!"

That’s a better idea! 😂

[Bertie McBoatface]

I'm mostly fettling and sub-assembling figures today, which doesn't seem to need photographs. Or many words either!

[Bertie McBoatface]

5 hours ago, Bertie Psmith said:

I'm mostly fettling and sub-assembling figures today, which doesn't seem to need photographs. Or many words either!

 

I now have two figures ready for priming. And eyestrain.

[Bertie McBoatface]

Apropos of nothing

[Bertie McBoatface]

 

Just to let you know that work is being done here, albeit very slowly and painstakingly. I'm taking an average of one old movie to fettle and sub-assemble each figure to this point, say a couple of hours. Figure modelling certainly gives you value for money in terms of time.

 

I should be priming in a day or so which is when I will resume detailed pictures and narrative for you.

 

[Bertie McBoatface]

I'm two-thirds of the way through bod the last! I've seldom worked so hard with so little visible results. Unfortunately, I have to keep stopping because of eyestrain. I had a posterior vitreous detachment a few months ago and my right, and best eye is still full of debris, which means I'm really over-working the left one. I've just fitted a stronger lens into my angle-poise magnifier/light, which is a help. I reckon I'll be finished the close work by tonight and then I'll prime them all tomorrow. 

 

I've decided I like the first one I did. That soldier that I ruined with the oil paints? I like his body language and I want to keep him. The paint is STILL wet, or at least soft enough to wipe off with a dry finger, so I daren't prime over the top of that. I'll have to find a way to strip it all off before tomorrow.

 

IPA first and oven cleaner as last resort.

[Bertie McBoatface]

8 minutes ago, Bertie Psmith said:

IPA first and oven cleaner as last resort.

 

The IPA (isopropyl alcohol) is working well, already the paint is coming away with just a gentle scrub, which is all I dare give it!

[echen]

Please take care, mate. Modelling is important - but not as important as your vision.

[Bertie McBoatface]

57 minutes ago, echen said:

Please take care, mate. Modelling is important - but not as important as your vision.

 

Thanks for your concern, old bean, but I asked the optician whether I should stop moddelling for a while and he said "Heavens, no!" It doesn't make any difference really and I'm stuck with a Sargasso of floaters for months yet. I only really notice it on the microscopic stuff.

 

I can always switch projects and do some Vulcan work - I can see that thing from a mile away! 

[Bertie McBoatface]

 

Hip hip!  Hurrah!

 

All the sub-assembling is now finished. I need to do a final inspection in daylight and attend to some gaps and probably a few details I've missed and then we are GO for painting once again.

 

The earlier Tommy cleaned up well, losing only his rifle sling, and speaking of rifles...

 

 

This is the front sling swivel on one of the rifles. You see that it's not perpendicular to the stock, which is half a matchstick wide? That's because it's swivelled, as intended. Those guys at Master Box are something else. I'll definitely be buying more of their stuff.

 

(I have no connection, except admiration, with the company by the way)

[Bertie McBoatface]

After today, there are 40 days until the end of the year. That's my deadline. Easy-peasy lemon-squeezy!

[Bertie McBoatface]

I did it! I primed the six figures!

 

 

First we have the one that I messed up in oils. The new rifle sling is even better than before, being attached to the correct point on the stock.

 

My only concern with this one is that there might be a few traces of linseed oil under that primer which could cause problems later if it decides to bleed through. I'm not too worried though as it would be only a tiny amount, deep in the crevices and the primer is pretty solid stuff. We'll see. Cross your fingers for me.

 

 

Grandad looks a bit of a mess. It's fascinating how a primer coat really exposes the flaws in a figure. In this case it's mostly flaws on the casting as opposed to my errors. I may still use him if I can make the grainy bits and holes look like really battered cloth. He was only an afterthought anyway so it won't break my heart to lose him. He's also noticeably overscale.

 

       

 

Here are the torsos of a couple of the others. Notice how difficult it is to make sense of all that equipment and the folds of the jerkins etc. Tomorrow, when they have been zenithally painted in Tamiya white, it should be much easier to 'read' them.

 

I can't do more tonight as I want that primer to be fully cured before I start layering on multiple coats of lacquer. (Also, I'm not really fit for complicated work as I'm now suffering from early onset whiskey. Oops! Time for bed.)

 

 

[JeroenS]

I was actually looking forward to the old geezer! I hope you'll be able to use him. 

[Bertie McBoatface]

1 hour ago, JeroenS said:

I was actually looking forward to the old geezer! I hope you'll be able to use him. 

He can make a guest appearance at least. 

[Bertie McBoatface]

 

It's been vitally important to keep the four sets of legs, torso, head and (slightly) helmet together. Mix them up and I could easily have soldiers advancing to the rear.

 

They all have their sewing needle 'spurs' on now, which makes life interesting and raises the amount of swearing here quite noticeably

 

 

I took this photo to remind me of a useful trick when you are going to use a long untouched pot of paint. Put it in your trouser pocket and take the dog for a long walk. In this case several walks as I carried it for a couple of days. The gentle agitation plus body heat really revitalises old paints.

 

 

That's the white layer sprayed obliquely from above.

 

 

And then the very thinned glaze of khaki which allows the shading from the grey 'sketch' above to show through. (It's actually darker than that but I had the lights on max for the airbrushing)

 

 

I experimented with spraying some different hues (Desert Yellow) on the leather jerkin and the puttees. It worked out ok but is hard to see in the picture. I'll be making much more contrast all over the figures when I get to the hand brushing. I'm going to do it in small sessions interspersed with work on the tank and groundwork, because I need a break from these guys, and I suspect so do you.

 

While I had the airbrush out I also sprayed the tank tracks with my special mixture of black, red and dark iron - no primer needed when using lacquer thinners. It was good to have the box of tank bits out again. I'd forgotten what it looks like.