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Great Wall Hobby 1/72 F-14A - Now Bandwagon 202


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49 minutes ago, Jon020 said:

All those tie downs will need work, but I do have some etch parts for those somewhere

 

Me too Jon, it's the thought of drilling the 'bowl' out underneath them that keeps putting me off using them !

 

You've just reminded me that I have that Italeri kit somewhere too - had forgotten about that! :)

 

When I get some modelling 'budget' spare I'm thinking of getting one of the Kits World 3D printed bases to see how well their carrier deck section looks.

 

Keith

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9 minutes ago, jacques caroff said:

Superb work Jon.

For you, some bases dioramas pics coming from the link below.

The guy is Mario Catania.

 

https://www.facebook.com/tomahawk1970/photos

 

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Hi Jacques,

Thanks for the reminder about these. Yes, they look superb... I'm just not sure Mrs H would be happy with me extending the house mortgage to afford one 😉

But yes, stunning work... and inspiring

Cheers

Jonathan

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On 3/15/2022 at 6:01 PM, Jon020 said:

Hi Jacques,

Thanks for the reminder about these. Yes, they look superb... I'm just not sure Mrs H would be happy with me extending the house mortgage to afford one 😉

But yes, stunning work... and inspiring

Cheers

Jonathan

Ahhahhaa....

You are welcome.

 

Edited by jacques caroff
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Just found your build and scanned through the three pages. Some excellent detail work going on here. I've always liked US Navy aircraft and the Tomcat is a favourite.

 

Well done.

 

Colin

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  • 4 weeks later...

Evening all. I thought I’d just post am update given that progress has been a little slow and sporadic recently, but some bits have been achieved. So….

The wings needed their wing-sweep marks adding. Unlike lots of representation, I tend to opt for a blend of lighter colours than are seen on certain models... but then again, if modelling a late-service example, the marks will be darker due to the graphite (?) lubricant that was used. For this, judging from photos, I kept to a pallet that was similar to the blended colours used on the wing bags themselves. I added the clean wings to the model and swept them. I then applied masking tape where the wing protruded (the clean bit) for both the top and bottom. I then removed the wings, and by comparing this with the layout on the dirty wings, added take to that set too.

For the scuffs, I use small dabs of oilbrusher … white, black and starship filth, blended to lighter colours than the harsh brown and black and shades in between.

51993077550_da9f243900_b.jpgWing scuff marks in progress by Jonathan Hughes, on Flickr

You may note that I’ve drilled a hole in the plasticard wing holders. This is the position of the wing pivot (tested by taking a part from a GWH kit and slotting that in place and then drilling these bits out) With this, I know the centre point of sweep… so I can put a cocktail stick in this, and then wrap some cotton (see last photo) around this and a brush, and then sweep the dots in an arc… shortening the cotton loop to different radii to suit all sweep marks.

After a lot of blending, some reapplying and then further blending with a soft brush, a harder flat brush and then a cotton bud, the result shown is achieved on the upper and lower faces.

51992528951_0fa7b40b28_b.jpgWing scuff marks, dragged and tidied. Top. by Jonathan Hughes, on Flickr

51992807929_50a7b62356_b.jpgWing scuff marks, dragged and tidied. Bottom by Jonathan Hughes, on Flickr

I then set about adding the slats and spoilers using carefully (or not) odourless superglue. Here, I must have managed to get a drop on my finger tip… and in applying a little pressure to the starboard slat managed to pull the paint away.

51992532741_2fdd76d515_b.jpgOne step backwards. Oops by Jonathan Hughes, on Flickr

After putting another £5 in the swear jar, I sanded this area carefully, then lightly masked with some post-it notes and drifted a few light layers of light gull grey over the area. A coat of aqua gloss to this seemed to blend it all back in enough afterwards. It wasn’t my only mistake – more of that in a moment.

So here’s a quick status shot taken at the time after everything had been given a few light coats of Mission Models Semi-gloss with a very light dusting of Mission Models matt over the engine exhaust to de-sheen them… I also applied a cut out mask around the anti-glare panel and gave that a light dusting of matt too… to flatten that a bit further. Anyway, all seen here - with all bits that were in hand at the time.

51993085855_fa0ea72be4_b.jpgParts count. by Jonathan Hughes, on Flickr

I’d started weathering the upper deck, especially the flat area between the engines, with various oil brusher shades (as before) but almost blended to nothing, to just give a hint and tell tale of footfall likely in this area. However, it was at about this point, that I compared this one with my other two tomcats and noticed that something was missing. I’d forgotten the upper section of the compressor ring(?) warning stripe. I rubbed the local area down with some very fine paper (2500) to smooth, and then used some small bits of post-it to mask local areas to apply some aqua gloss to give a good layer for the decals.

51991538552_480b77d1ca_b.jpgAnother oops. Stripe forgotten by Jonathan Hughes, on Flickr

I looked at the GWH decals and quite honestly, I wasn’t impressed. Expecting to see a nice clean straight red line, the decal looked like it had been brushed in stages and it was hardly consistent in width. So… resorting to my preference, I cut out 5 shorter sections from the rest of the DXM set and these settled very well. Using the short sections allowed me to leave the panel joins clear... something that may not be accurate, but hinted at panel replacements perhaps. A very small amount to Daco strong was applied where it sat over the fin leading edges, but I can’t recommend the DXM decals enough, they are excellent… not to say double excellent.

51992598103_18f5d13648_b.jpgStripe applied.... and re blended by Jonathan Hughes, on Flickr

This was given a localised blast of semi gloss and some more oil brusher to blend it all back together again.

As an aside, as I needed to sort out some more ground crew and removed a further one from its 3D print mount, I also set about putting my Verlinden tractor together. Unfortunately, I don’t think I’ll get the figure to sit correctly on the seat so may need to make do with this, but I’ll work on whether I can add something to the floor for him to rest his foot on at the right height. TBD The Verlinden bits needed some clean up but went together well once he mating surfaces were roughed up a bit and using some medium thick superglue. I drilled out the wheels to sit on a 0.6mm wire axle, and then drilled holes through at front and back to accommodate these to allow it to sit right. I think it’ll do. Lots of details to add and fabricate, but something that will suit sitting with my last Tomcat (Wichita 103) if not this one.

51993090595_fcd80e0006_b.jpgVerlinden deck tractor. Reedoak figure by Jonathan Hughes, on Flickr

One task I’m never keen on and need to build up to is unmasking the canopy and windscreen… and cockpit tub of course. But, in this instance, it all went quite well. I’d used the Eduard self adhesive parts and these came off ok. On the canopy, I’d applied Tamiya masking tape on the inside and then filed-in around the Eduard tape with Maskol. The cockpit was masked using plasticar sections I’d cut to shape and Secure with Maskol as a securing sealing but easy to remove bond. But, no all was good. The canopy sill needed painting (a mix of dark grey and black humbrol paints) to blend in with the faded black elsewhere. There was a very small amount of bleed on the windscreen that was carefully scraped away with a flattened (but smooth) end of a cocktail stick.

51992601798_9d78df0266_b.jpgWindscreen and cockpit unmasked by Jonathan Hughes, on Flickr

I then took the canopy piece (it doesn’t have the lower frame fitted at this stage) and dropped that on top. What was evident was how clear the canopy was. I had polished this with Tamiya compound when removing the seam, but it’s a lot clearer and optically better than pervious ones. So, I won’t be needing to use Klear on it.

51991544907_328076e93b_b.jpgBefore frame added, canopy test fit. Passed. by Jonathan Hughes, on Flickr

Moving on with the details, I added some Glue and Glaze into the IR sensor and left he model propped vertically overnight. It didn’t dry as smooth as previously, but it’s good enough and better than the kit (or quickboost) clear plastic bit. I also added the small clear red plastic (Light representation) without too much swearing and only moderate sweating.

51992545831_5c4efe434e_b.jpgIR lens added and light fitted by Jonathan Hughes, on Flickr

Back to the canopy and the Eduard windscreen frame/mirrors, single mirror (although that came from a Eduard for Academy set] and of course the windscreen frame with handle (that I forgot to photograph. The single mirror in the Eduard GWH kit comes on a length of straight frame that is supposed to be painted black and then glued inside the canopy… but that sounds too risky for me. So, I use what I have done before and added a thin strip of black PVC tape instead… it’s hardly visible but does still bulk up the inner part of the canopy as you’d want to, and then you can glue the single mirror to the crown of the tape without fear of damaging the clear plastic.

The frames here were primed, then painted a slightly-dirty black (a mix of tire black and black) so as to not be too dark – a matt “scale” black. Once dry, I carefully applied the mirror faces using my small Molotov pen. Once dry, I carefully went back around the mirror edges with some black and a (very) fine brush. Good enough I think.

You’ll see that these are attached to the end of cocktail sticks (using a thin pva type glue) on the faces that won’t be visible once assembled) to allow handling.

51993097400_26b8a46662_b.jpgCanopy frame and mirrors painted by Jonathan Hughes, on Flickr

The cockpit. The seats were fitted out with the Quinta harnesses and handles. These were applied with a little drop of pva and settled very well. I have left the seat lower harness off the rear seat as the crewman (plane captain) will sit in there… so I need to keep the seat pan clear. But adding the other parts did not interfere with the figure when seated. These seats are Aires and came up nicely. Now… for my academy kit, I’d used the GWH seats and added the Eduard harnesses to detail these up. I then added pilots to that kit, so went back to the Academy kit seats (not so detailed) but allowed the pilots to sit better (not atop the PE harnesses). So, I had the GWH seats to hand, so thought I drop these in. They wouldn’t go in! The area between the thigh cushions on the Aires seats is quite wide, with the ejection loop in between. This sits in nicely around the control stick in the front and the rear of the control coaming (with joystick) in the rear, but the GWH kit seats are a bit narrower in that area and try as I might, I could not get the seats to drop in. Bear in mind that I’ve added rear bulkhead details to both cockpits, so this pushes the seats forward – or it would had I not made use of the seat cut outs at the rear to interface with… whereas the GWH seats didn’t have that. Ok, so that’s probably the problem. Not an issue, but best not to swap seats mid – build… so I’m keeping to the Aires ones shown here. Note also that the RIO coaming is the Aires item for the Hasegawa kit refined to fit here. An option I’d do again for another GWH – A. Although I’m not sure what I’d do for a GWH B or D. Hmmm. Will think about that before opening those kits.

51992828109_115ba36b27_b.jpgCockpit reassembly check. by Jonathan Hughes, on Flickr

51992550641_1f32519d82_b.jpgCockpit view, port side. by Jonathan Hughes, on Flickr

So, that’s about it. The only other test fit was to pop the canopy on in the open position. I’d added a “tongue” at the back of the canopy frame part, to fit in a slot I’d cut in the forward face of the upper deck, and that seemed to work well. The forward tongue of the inner frame sits between the two uprights of the big A frame with a nice interference fit, although I’ll add, or make, a jack item to sit in there to hold the angle reliably.

51992612073_f56c2d2f02_b.jpgCanopy open test fit by Jonathan Hughes, on Flickr

So that’s it. I need to write up an order of assembly now… recognising that the more parts get added, the harder handling the model becomes. I may start with the arrester hook, then the side AoA and Smart probe kit parts (painted but shown here on the sprue sections) as I’ve not done a test fit on those. Then the cockpit pop out platforms (main ladder near the end). The gear and gear doors probably come next, then pylons with the masters nose probe, refuelling probe and lower fold out step near the end. The wings will slot on, as will the horiz stabs. But I’ll give it all some thought first.

51993103630_c3a45bdc98_b.jpgReady for final assembly by Jonathan Hughes, on Flickr

Thanks for reading and sticking with me on this journey.

Jonathan

 

Edited by Jon020
Double entry
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Thanks for your kind comments. We were away this week so no progress until a couple of hours today, carefully dry fitting, checking, fettling and then once happy, adding a few bits with odourless superglue. Still a work in progress and she's becoming progressively more challenging to hold...  but it was always going to be so.

Adding underside details Underside details, side view

That's the underside prior to adding the wheels.... after which it could stand happily.

Taking a stand

So.... hopefully I'll get more progress this long weekend, although the sunshine is pulling me outside more today... writing this sat in the garden.

Thanks all 

Jonathan

 

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  • 2 weeks later...

Good evening all,

Well, the task is now complete and I managed to assemble the aircraft without any breakages… not quite issue free, but points learned along the way.  So, the order I ended up with was:

Nose gear and nose gear doors test fit (fettle until fit)

Arrester hook

Nose gear doors and nose gear fitted. Rear doors simultaneously with gear leg, then retraction strut.

Lower airbrakes (were quite tight)

Cockpit side upper steps

Main gear

Main gear doors

Nose gear forward doors

Pylons

Wheels (Nose then mains)

Side nose air probes (4)

Upper airbrake

Refueling probe

Nose probe (masters)

The stores (ACMI pod and AIM9)

The ladder and central coaming, seats and electrician are all currently a loose fit; the ladder has a wire piece that helps secure it in place without the need for glue.

 

All were secured using Bob Smith Industries odourless CA glue

The forward masters probe I had coated in AK True Metals AK457 Steel “wax”, left that for a bit and then buffed with a cotton bud. This seemed to work well.. and left to “dry” before fitting at the end (as above)

One clash I did find was noticed when I test fitted the wings. I tried the dirty wings first and these were fine. I then test fitted the clean wings and went to sweep them…. No, they got stuck on something (annoying as always went ok before. A quick check found that one of the mounting lugs of the rear main gear doors protruded through too far… as shown below. This was carefully cut away with a sharp Swann Morten blade… cut flush and then all was ok.

52036204331_f14427469b_b.jpgAssembly snag by Jonathan Hughes, on Flickr

The yaw string was needed at the end. My usual choice of thin rigging line wouldn't really work as it's black and wouldn't really show up, so I selected to take a small piece of cotton, separate the three cores of the thread and use just one, and then retwist that. It has separated a bit at the end, but so would the yaw string. It's secured with a blob of Klear.

52036205996_bf9ec85e17_b.jpgYaw string bits by Jonathan Hughes, on Flickr

The job was essentially completed. I still needed to paint the electrician I wanted in the rear seat (which I then did over a few evenings) and test fits were ok. It’d be better to put him in the front but that’d not be possible without some surgery to get his legs/feet around the central panel, so in the back he went.  Interestingly, I had a pair of fully finished GWH seats that I detailed for my Academy kit build but then didn’t use (I used the kit seats with Reedoak crew seated) so I went to fit these, but I couldn’t get them in.. something was snagging. I think it was that I’d detailed the rear bulkheads of each pit, which coincided with the nicely cut away detailed rear face of the Aires seat… but not the GWH seat; so they wouldn’t fit. The Aires ones went in fine; thankfully.

52036491514_bf0a6c440e_b.jpgSeats and occupant by Jonathan Hughes, on Flickr

One issue that bugged me for a while was that the refueling probe sat a bit low. After living with it for a few days, I decided to try to remove it without causing too much damage... using a pair of tweezers on the probe body rocking it back and forth I was able to free and remove it... clean up the residue dry glue, redrill the hole and remount in a slightly steeper position that would then clear the upper deck and be visible from the port side

So, I’ll post a quick selection of “finished” photos here and do a RFI thread separately.

I’ll also think about a summary of what I think of the model. I’ve made some mistakes as I’ve gone along, and some aspects I’d watch for (per this thread) next time. I think there will be a next time as whilst the kit can be complex, the end result looks worthwhile. The Academy kit was easier and gave almost as nice a result at the end… so I’ll do another of those too… but we’ll have a break for a bit first, and get some perspective.

52036461719_baa8d825df_b.jpgReflections by Jonathan Hughes, on Flickr

52035175552_d7dbefe2c3_b.jpgRefuelling probe detail by Jonathan Hughes, on Flickr

52024645146_1e728de297_b.jpgTomcat tailfeathers open by Jonathan Hughes, on Flickr

52011530702_a6e97f2f24_b.jpgBandwagon 202 Port front quarter (Wings dirty) by Jonathan Hughes, on Flickr

52034451640_9c5bddd60b_b.jpgTomcat by Jonathan Hughes, on Flickr

52034789920_e83f65389e_b.jpgElectricals test by Jonathan Hughes, on Flickr

Thanks for reading and for sticking with me on this journey... 9 months in the making!

Jonathan

Edited by Jon020
wrong photo loaded
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  • 4 weeks later...
  • 1 year later...

Wow! I am speechless. I have this similar kit in the stash and after reading the 3 pages, I am afraid to start the build. 
This build will be my reference to build the VF1.

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