Nose weight advice needed

[Bob C.]

I was exploring the Uschi van der Rosten site for their wood grain decals and came across something called Three Green Flexible Nose Weight, which seems to be a leaded putty.  Has anyone used this product, and if so, what are your results and opinions?  Here is a link https://www.uschivdr.com/products-in-detail/three-green-flexible-nose-weight/ . 

I have read that if using actual lead weights, superglued to plastic, excess heat can be created that causes expansion that can destroy the plastic, though  that has never happened to me -- yet? 

Thanks for any  input.

Bob C 

Edited August 22, 2021 by Bob C.

[petetasker]

Sounds interesting. I’ve been using Delux Materials Liquid Gravity either wrapped into Blue Tack or secured with a coat of super glue.

[Sturmovik]

10 minutes ago, Bob C. said:

if using actual lead weights, superglued to plastic, excess heat can be created that causes expansion that can destroy the plastic

I read the same thing, Antrum Rats? If so, avoid using CA. I first glue some spare sprues leftover from the model to the base of the fuselage, and then apply epoxy over the sprues with the weights and let it harden.

[Chuck1945]

No experience with this product but let me tell you about CA and heat… I tried to secure some lead wool (short strands of lead used by model railroad folks as ballast) in a 1/72 Me 262 engine pod with thin CA applied liberally. The nacelle sides seriously deformed from heat as it cured 😳

[rossm]

I use PVA - no heat issues at all but it takes a while to go off.

[iainpeden]

I use the weights they use to balance tyres; the ones I get have a sticky side so it's just take off the protective paper a stick. I've been using them for 10 years or so and no problems.

[Sharknose]

I use small coins. Several 5p pieces glued together. 

 

Easy way to know how much it costs to weigh the nose down!

[ckw]

I use the lead tape for balancing golf clubs/tennis rackets. It's self adhesive, but I usually coat with PVA to make sure it stays put.

 

Cheers

 

Colin

[Bertie McBoatface]

I've had a sheet of lead, not from the church roof, for years and just trim bits off to fit. I use woodworking glue or pva because once the superglue I poured in found a way out and made a bit of a mess!

 

Superglue curing is a reaction that gives off heat but I've never noticed the extreme heat mentioned here. Perhaps that's a chemical reaction with the metals, which makes it all a bit unpredicatable.

[psdavidson]

I'm using a very old roll of aquarium plant weight, generally stuck down with CA. No side effects so far.

[Bertie McBoatface]

It's fascinating me just how many different things we use.

[Tigerausfb]

I used to be seen walking along the main roads here looking for the old lead wheel balancing weights they used to use, flatten them out with a hammer and Bob's your Uncle. You just don't see them these days. 

[Pigpen]

2 hours ago, Bertie Psmith said:

Superglue curing is a reaction that gives off heat but I've never noticed the extreme heat mentioned here

Probably just surface area to volume ratio.  As an adhesive where the "thickness" tends to zero the ratio tends to infinity and cooling is not an issue. As a "blob" then it appropriates to a sphere which is the minimum surface area that a solid can have so all that heat from curing is going through to the plastic. Plus perhaps some channelling via the metal to "hot spots".

 

Bottom line is CA wa never intended to be used as a potting compund. I use epoxy resin and some flaahing left over from building work yeara ago.

Edited August 22, 2021 by Pigpen

[Tojo72]

I used lead BB's with super glue,and yes too much glue will cause a melting or distortion to the plastic,in my case it was the nose cone.I dropped in BB's and squirted the glue in,too much glue.

Edited August 22, 2021 by Tojo72

[hsr]

I use #10 shot and super glue. It will sometimes get hot, but I have never had melting. The problem I have it that some times a few pieces will come loose and start rolling around the interior. I had one pieces roll onto the pilot's seat and stick there. It almost looks like the pilot left his helmet on the seat  

[Tail-Dragon]

I have read that is not the heat of curing, but rather a chemical reaction that causes lead corrosion that continues and gradually expands until it splits your pride and joy wide open. Using 5 minute epoxy instead prevents this. There are photos online that show bulged, split seams oozing out nasty, white foamy looking powder, may take years, but why chance it?

[Jackson Duvalier]

Lately I've been mixing lead shot into a Blu Tac matrix.  Easy to stuff into any available nooks and/or crannies.

 

If it results in a chemical reaction in twenty years or so, I'll be sure to report back.

[dnl42]

I use lead shot or Liquid Gravity. I used some clear glue once that half-melted the nose of a 1/48 RQ-4B. It took a lot of putty and work to repair. While I did test the glue on sprues, closing the fuselage up was a disaster.

 

Since then, I use white glue or PVA.

[Paul Thompson]

Thin CA will produce a lot of heat because it cures rapidly. Gel CA doesn't unless you hit it with kicker, or really use a huge amount. Whatever, I've never had overheating using the gel variety.

For those of you using blue tac or plasticine, you should be aware that these can allegedly eat through plastic on their own, given enough time.  Something I've read in several places over the decades, although I've  not used the stuff myself so don't know if it's undoubtedly true. Personally. in small amounts I use gel CA and lead, making sure the lead is embedded so as to avoid future oxidation, but for larger weights, white glue and lead.

 

Paul.

[John B (Sc)]

Like 'rossm' I use small lead shot or old cut-offs from wheel balance weights like 'Tigerausfb'. Rolling them lightly in PVA means they stick well. No plastic reactions seen so far.

This provides about t6he highest density filling easily available.

 

John B

[Tail-Dragon]

Here is the article about lead weights and CA glue - The photo's speak for themselves!

 

Lead weight corrosion and nose weights

 

http://www.ratomodeling.com.br/articles/lead_ca/lead3.jpg

 

http://www.ratomodeling.com.br/articles/lead_ca/lead2.jpg

[alt-92]

(steel) curtain weights and small quantities of fishing weights, and Liquid Gravity here. 
If I can get away with using a supporting stand, I will. 
Back in my Stone Age modelling years, I, youngster that I was, played with the (now not so) bright idea of using depleted AA batteries in the nose of a Revell 1/32 F-14. 
Not repeatable.