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Challenger 2 in Berlin camouflage


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Hi all, 

 

I’ve linked below pictures of my most recent armour completion, a 1/35 Rye Field Models Challenger 2 in Berlin brigade camouflage. 
I decided to keep weathering to a minimum as such a scheme has never been used in battle so could never get too dirty. 
 

Any critique would be welcome. I haven’t done many armour models so there’s still a lot of room for improvement. 
 

Thanks

Luke

 

B4015-B6-B-2-A0-B-4-B74-8066-F94019-B898
F4-DFE55-D-334-C-4643-A04-B-F336-FFA52-E
7-EB7-A07-A-7-E7-A-4505-AF5-D-BA3-C0-EC2
0465-C041-D09-C-4-BC2-B328-59416524-F4-D

A3-B327-D0-C33-E-4-A62-A57-C-B1-CE6962-D

FBA7133-D-833-F-4-FA1-8263-3-D821492-B12
 

 

Edited by Ruttman
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You have a good grasp of fine dust on skirts. Perhaps you could expand a bit about your method.

 

Can I make a constructive suggestion though?

 

My second thought was that there seems to be some unweathered upper surfaces which look stark and monochromatic. I have had this problem myself, when I wanted to strike the right note with parts which needed to look comparatively clean, and ending up foregoing them because I wasn't sure how to tackle them subtly. It was only photographing my models which revealed things which I hadn't seen or considered. I always remind myself that there is almost no such thing as a completely clean surface on a used vehicle.

Edited by Ade H
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23 hours ago, Ruttman said:

Any critique would be welcome. I haven’t done many armour models so there’s still a lot of room for improvement. 

Well, if you're a novice AFV modeller, you've done a good job on this, as the Berlin scheme isn't easy to do. As for room for improvement, that applies to even the best of us. We're always learning.

 

John.

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On 20/08/2021 at 14:17, Ade H said:

You have a good grasp of fine dust on skirts. Perhaps you could expand a bit about your method.

 

Can I make a constructive suggestion though?

 

My second thought was that there seems to be some unweathered upper surfaces which look stark and monochromatic. I have had this problem myself, when I wanted to strike the right note with parts which needed to look comparatively clean, and ending up foregoing them because I wasn't sure how to tackle them subtly. It was only photographing my models which revealed things which I hadn't seen or considered. I always remind myself that there is almost no such thing as a completely clean surface on a used vehicle.


Thanks, I’d have to agree with your recommendation for the upper surfaces. How would you recommend making it more dirty? It has to be quite subtle as this scheme has never been used in war and so won’t ever have been left long enough uncleaned for too much grime to accumulate. 

Edited by Ruttman
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On 21/08/2021 at 12:09, ivan-o said:

Nice job👍And to take on that colour scheme without to much experience well done🤗


Thank you. I’ve built quite a few aircraft so I have decent experience with painting and masking; it’s the heavier weathering on the lower hull and side skirts of tanks which I tend to struggle with on armour

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If we were talking about a model which was not yet painted, I would have recommended beginning with intershading to vary each camo colour. This bakes in some of the most subtle effects of weathering and makes every post-painting task easier because you're not having to fight with a monochrome surface. But after painting, even on a completely finished model, you can use OPR (oil paint rendering). Then your effects can be as subtle and as finely targeted as you need. As you have not made very many AFVs, I appreciate that you may not be sure how to do that, so my recommendation is to watch some of Mike Rinaldi's YT videos, (search YT for Rinaldi Studio Press). If you also want some tips from me, I'm happy to help, although it may get a bit long and boring! 😉

Edited by Ade H
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Nice job.  A couple of minor comments just for anyone else doing a build.  You've painted the rubber pad on the engine deck grey/blue and it should be rubber.  It's called a 'resilient rail' and is made from rubber - it's designed to reduce the shock if the barrel is depressed to the limit stops when over the back decks.

 

Other little one is the fire extinguishers.  They either need to be black if you have covers on them, or red if the extinguishers are exposed.  

 

You've also got the commanders primary sight facing back to front!  Thats the box in top of the turret in front of the cupola.  You need to turn it around!!   

 

 

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  • 3 weeks later...
On 8/26/2021 at 7:01 PM, dov said:

Telll me: Which time perode was it actually? I have no idea, not my time.  On WW2 mostly. Or IDF.

Wonderful done.

Happy modelling 

 

On 8/25/2021 at 1:44 PM, Bertie Psmith said:

I didn't know the Berlin camo was in service for that long. Learn something here every time.

 

It looks fine to me. On the subject of the upper structure weathering, have you considered modulating the big flat spaces with oils?

 

It wasnt.  Ajax Squadron of 1RTR are experimenting with disruptive patterns and re did the Berlin scheme recently.  The scheme dates from the Cold war era (for you youngsters). Not sure of they still have their Challys painted in it, or of they have gone back to good old green.

 

As far as I am aware, the only MBTs done in the Berlin scheme were Mk10 Chiefys located in......... Berlin of course, so I'm guessing that was around 1976/77 ish.  Not sure when the Mk11s came into service off the top of my head.  The first Mk10 painted in the Berlin scheme was done as a bit of an experiment and the CO thought it rather effective, so they did all of the urban located Chiefys in the scheme.  The Tankies hated it apparently but got to quite like it after a while.  

 

I'm sure someone will come along and fill in the details and make some minor corrections to my scribblings, but that's broadly the facts.

Edited by simmerit
correction to typo
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