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Was a ‘Sundowner’… now a ‘Silver King’ - ##finished##


Dansk

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Thanks guys. 
 

I’m nearing the end of stencil data on the airframe, man theres a lot on a Phantom. 🤪

Think I’m gonna be cutting this GB fine with walkways, weathering, weaponry and seats and so much still ahead.

 

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@DaveJL, I’ve used a hybrid mix of furball and Tamiya kit stencil decals to make what I consider looks coolest.

Last shot is with a ton of microsol applied.

 

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I’ve been puncturing them all prior to applying to allow the solutions to really have chance to get to them, so I don’t know if it’s psychological but they seem to go down better than previous Tamiya decals have? 

 

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If they still look heavy after a couple, of microsol coats I’m gonna try my new nuclear strength tamiya super strong decal softener. 

 

The bonus/negative (depending on which way you look at it) of having man-flu is that lots of online shopping time is suddenly available. One spree resulted in some new Foam Yoga blocks. I love these things for easily prodding in parts for painting. I can recommend them.

 

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So this one can retire - my first one I got from my wife over two years ago when i started modelling again. It’s certainly had its share of usage. 

 

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…might have bought a few more modelling related goodies in my downtime too 🤫

Edited by Dansk
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Looks great mate. I've had issues with Tamiya decals in the past too, I find them rather thick. The only decal I used from my recent F-16 build was the refuelling probe stencil and it silvered and all sorts. It's possibly a weak point, if there is such a thing, on Tamiya kits.

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On 10/24/2021 at 10:06 PM, Jens said:

Some have think black outlines, some don't. Another aircraft with these markings does not have a think black outline to the yellow fin tip.

 

Jens

Thanks Jens, yes theres several varations, different tail tops too. I have a cunning plan to get a small keyline if thats the way I go, and thats to use the black keyline seperators from the Tamiya decal sheet, let’s see. 

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2 minutes ago, DaveJL said:

Looks great mate. I've had issues with Tamiya decals in the past too, I find them rather thick. The only decal I used from my recent F-16 build was the refuelling probe stencil and it silvered and all sorts. It's possibly a weak point, if there is such a thing, on Tamiya kits.


Yeah Me too Dave as you saw in the GB. They should get cartograph to make them, as the design of them and the detail in those stencils is awesome.

I’m wondering if their own super strong setting solution will be a magic ingredient.

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1 minute ago, Dansk said:


Yeah Me too Dave as you saw in the GB. They should get cartograph to make them, as the design of them and the detail in those stencils is awesome.

I’m wondering if their own super strong setting solution will be a magic ingredient.

Fingers crossed! I've tried a lot of stuff and they still seem to remain either too thick or start silvering.

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  • Dansk changed the title to Was a ‘Sundowner’… now a ‘Silver King’ - decalling stencil data
7 hours ago, modelling minion said:

Really nice work Paul, I hope that Tamiya's decals don't give you the issues they did on your F-16.

Oh do tell!!


a bunch of laquer paint, and a future project kit, I’ll show you a picture when it arrives, it’s awesome. 😉

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Thanks Ray.

Ok all fuselage decalling is done (just pylons, tanks and loadout to go)

The full on blasting of various solvents has got the decals to get down really pretty good i think. Tamiyas stencil data being as flat as if not better than furballs. I threw dacos products solvent, microsol and tamiya extra strong setter at them for good measure :)

 

I didnt take any photos tonight but i have a slightly lightened milky faded area around the decals where i attacked them with solvent, perhaps not surprising with the gallons I have thrown at them.

 

I’ve had this before on a c-47 ages ago and a Coat of future made it completley dissappear, too however that was on top of a coat of future in the first place (this time its humbrol thinners) so maybe that can work again. Well I’m not too worried as a new application of solvent makes them dissappear too and this is gonna be a trashed faded patchy subject so its all gonna blend into the weathering i think.


I need a spot of advice at this stage…

 

- what do you guys ‘clean’ the surface with at this point? I have bits of dust and hairs and all sorts that I want to remove before the next gloss coat

but my usual go to of using isopropyl alcohol before primer will react I think?

 

- i’m also thinking of keying the surface with 3000 / 4000 grit before the next gloss coat, the thinking being to to clean it and to key it for an even coat and to lightly take any undulations away. Is this a good idea post decaling-before a protective coat?

 

thanks for any input in advance 🙏🙌

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7 hours ago, Dansk said:

what do you guys ‘clean’ the surface with at this point? I have bits of dust and hairs and all sorts that I want to remove before the next gloss coat

but my usual go to of using isopropyl alcohol before primer will react I think?

I use Iso alcohol 70% and yet to have a reaction after several years. The Iso should evaporate pretty quick, if you're still worried then use bottled water after the Iso. Should neutralize any issue’s. 
 

Dennis

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Caution is the word. I use iso and it’s mostly fine. But it did dissolve Mr Surfacer. I repaired the damage but am now more cautious. Test a non critical area first.

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6 hours ago, Johnson said:

Caution is the word. I use iso and it’s mostly fine. But it did dissolve Mr Surfacer. I repaired the damage but am now more cautious. Test a non critical area first.

 

Hmm, this I did not know...sounds like a little experimentation w/ some alcohol and cotton swabs is in order.

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On 10/27/2021 at 8:59 AM, Dansk said:

what do you guys ‘clean’ the surface with at this point? I have bits of dust and hairs and all sorts that I want to remove before the next gloss coat

but my usual go to of using isopropyl alcohol before primer will react I think?

 

Hi Paul, I never seem to need anything more than warm water to clean up the surfaces at this stage. I will also, often, polish the surfaces lightly with a clean microfibre cloth. Carefully and even, possibly, avoiding some decals so as to not damage them. If there is a greasy finger mark or something like that, then some very dilute dishwashing liquid in water using a cotton bud (Q-tip) or the edge of a soft cloth followed by the same using clean water.  Then the usual pre-paint process of crank up the air brush pressure and blow off any debris or lint as needed. If anything remains fixed in the coat then I might use some 3000 to sand out before the top coat targeting just the problem spot. 

 

On 10/27/2021 at 8:59 AM, Dansk said:

i’m also thinking of keying the surface with 3000 / 4000 grit before the next gloss coat, the thinking being to to clean it and to key it for an even coat and to lightly take any undulations away. Is this a good idea post decaling-before a protective coat?

 

Scary. 

 

Ray

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Thanks for all the good advice chaps.

i used a mixture of all comments really. I liked the washing up liquid too ray but only saw that after ipa experiments.

ipa has to be used ultra fast and ultra discretely in my experiments, i dont really like it as this stage on paint it's potent if you're not careful.

anyway After I’d finished all the airframe decaling, and gave it the necesssary clean ups with ipa and ultrasoft keying i gave it a couple of coats of humbrol gloss coat and 24 hours + to cure and things looked really good.

 

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i retouched a few ipa test areas and bits that needed cleaning up and addressed a few parts that needed paint 

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I masked and painted the yellow tail top and wing tips.

as it happened a newish jar of ak laquer yellow i had purchased last week was coincidentally the exact perfect match! amazing.

 

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(i've cleaned this up above now where the yellow went astray)

 

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I’ve really had a tough time with decaling in this build (and my last). It’s my nemesis it seems.

after masking and painting the walkways (trying to avoid using the decals) pulling away the tape and masks resulted in the decals under coats of cured varnish coming away thats so crazy. wtf. Maybe i should have de-tacked the tape more.

 

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so i’ve stripped off all the damaged ones 

and have replaced them with scraps left on the decal sheets. it meant losing the drop yellow shadow on all numerals now,

 

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90% off here..

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(That humbrol gloss actually changes the tone a lot we can see from this above around the removed decal.)

 

Its funny when cleaning up, that I have gone a little heavy here and there through the paint, but when weathered this will be fine as its such a trashy look the inspiration shots i have chosen to follow from the start, that this will actually add a nice base for it. (trying to look on the bright side) 🙂

 

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so we’re back in a happy place now, I wont let this thing beat me.

 

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The walkways i trashed a touch and it’s all now sealed up again under a coat of tamiya clear as I ’speak’.

 

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so panel lines are next.

 

 

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  • Dansk changed the title to Was a ‘Sundowner’… now a ‘Silver King’ - glossed and ready for a panel line wash

I am very sorry to see the decals have been the source of more issues for you Paul, though not technically the fault of the decals this time. I have wondered myself how either decals or paint can be removed by low tack masking tape from under a couple of coats of varnish, one of life's great (and crap) mysteries. As Dennis said though it will all add to the weathered look of the aircraft, which is looking good already.

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Thank you gentlemen. 
My next build will be a stencil-light WWII build with painted markings (I am considering to park/postpone my Tomcat build to avoid stress and rush.)

Craig @modelling minion remember I said previously that I’d tell you what my other purchases were when they arrived? well the awesome kit is not here yet but aftermarket is. I have cunningly put in ‘easter egg’ aftermarket for it in the photo thread above for you, your mission should you choose to accept it is to tell me what the kit is. :coolio: This message will self destruct in 10 seconds

 

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34 minutes ago, helios16v said:

Nice save Paul.

Thanks chris 👍

 

39 minutes ago, modelling minion said:

Well the only non Phantom related product I can see if the aftermarket instrument panel. 

Now I can't read what it says on the packet but my guess would be for a 1/32 Mustang.

it was actually randomn it was there in the shots craig, The AM arrived i got excited opened it and then carried on building (it hasnt got a box to live in yet).

Theres actually three bits of AM in the shots, admittidly blurred and discrete… but I think it is possible to decypher. You can make out some info.

two in that shot you refer to (gun barrels behind the IP) and another shot further up has a brassin wheels box visible.

I’m opening up this up to Mr. aftermarket @trickyrich as if he hasn ‘t got enough to do… what’s my next kit rich?

 

 

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