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Engines, engines, engines


kpnuts
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Hi all some people have said they thought my engines looked very realistic (I think it helps in that most of my life I've been around or worked on either motorcycle or car engines) so I thought if anyone wants to know how I do any aspect of weathering an engine they could just ask or if it would help maybe I could try and post a video (pretty rubbish at social media) 

Here is a random sample of the hundreds of engines I must have modeled over the years 

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15 hours ago, kpnuts said:

It's a great kit mate.

It does look very nice in the box, I  have packed away for now as I have to pick up my half built Beetle model, a replica of my last Beetle , one day soon. 

It would be great to see the engines tutorial and will help with both my planned car builds.

Thanks so much

Chris

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Hi all so the first installment, I'm basically the laziest modeler ever and if there's a short cut or an easy way to do something I'm there.

So heres the first bit of aging an engine, since I'm working on an engine atm I decided to use that as the first example.

First requirement talcum powder.

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Here's our nice clean engine

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I use enamels so in this case I dip the brush in white spirit before picking up some talc(you can use water but you would have to matt the engine first as the water will just bead otherwise) I then dab the loaded brush on the engine (really load it all up with the white spirit and talc)once that's done flood with white spirit till it looks how you want.

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I used gun metal from ABT

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To highlight the bolt heads.

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I then dust it all with Uschi powders

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Then buff that with a soft brush

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My ref pic

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This is going to end up being a very long post as I have lots of stuff to add to it (assuming you want it)

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talcum powder yields an impressive result.

 

i can remember adding it to testor's gloss enamel to get a flat (well, less shiny) black for upholstery when i didn't have an extra 10 cents for a dedicated bottle of flat.

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2 hours ago, s.e.charles said:

i can remember adding it to testor's gloss enamel to get a flat (well, less shiny) black for upholstery when i didn't have an extra 10 cents for a dedicated bottle of flat.

As a sub-teen modeler, I once got in trouble for trying this with some of my mother's scented (and very expensive) talcum powder. But shortly after this incident, my allowance was raised and I was able to afford flat paints from then on.

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Thanks for sharing !

 

Very interesting, so the talcum powder and white spirit mix sort of "white/grey washes" the black color ?

 

After the mix had dried, does it stay on or does it rub off easily ? Can you touch it without leaving fingerprints ?

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Hi all well I have been given lots of ref pics of this engine and none of them are as distressed as this is, so a bit of white spirit and a cotton bud and it's looking more like it should.

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So next method, here is the sacrificial engine for this example (and for most of the others)

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OK as I said at the start of this I use mostly enamels so I can't say if this works with acrylics (although I've found in the past adding washing up liquid to the solution tends to have the same effect as white spirit)

If you want an engine that looks like it's been in a dusty environment (as in my mad to the max bike) 

Get an empty tin or bottle into that pour some matt colour of the earth in the area your engine has been driving in ( for the mad to the max bike I used sand as it was set in a desert, for this I've used earth)

Add talcum powder to it and mix keep adding talc till you get paste like consistency then add white spirit keep stirring till you get the consistency of milk, add the talc to the paint first don't thin it till you've added the talc as the talc doesn't seem to take the colour if you thin the paint first.

OK so use a big brush and load it with this mixture and dab it all over the engine(really cover it so it gets in all the nooks and crannies, then load your brush with white spirit (this is the important bit hold engine as it will be in the car or bike and flood the engine with white spirit just let gravity do its thing.

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This is how it looks when dry

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All the plastic parts I dab with ABT copper oxide blue patina

And again blend with white spirit

I also add ABT engine grease anywhere you might expect an oil leak

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Sorry for such a long wait before a progress report but I have to wait till I'm doing something that relates to this topic.

OK so for headers I use ak real metal steel

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Ak real metal gold

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And valejo Arctic blue

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First paint the headers with AK steel ( if I was doing bike headers I would buff the steel up first) (the AK range of metal finishes are amazing and all can be buffed) (the buffing works even better if you have of the paint on the cotton bud or cloth you are buffing the work with) 

Slightly off point my airbrush died so I decided to try and replicate finishes without one.

So get some of the AK gold on your brush(medium flat brush) work most of it off on a tissue and dry brush only on the first bends of the headers.

Next get a cotton bud dip it in AK steel and rub most of it off then dip it in the Arctic blue and starting at the dry brushed gold blend from the gold down towards the exhaust.

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Here's how it should look.

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If on a motorcycle you would blend less and the header would be highly polished.

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