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Kovozávody Prostějov Škoda D.1 plastikovy model 1/72 - the has found a destination.


ColonelKrypton

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A couple of weeks ago I stumbled over this upcoming High Wing group build and had just happened to be in to poke around my local hobby store. My preference is generally early aviation and WW1 types and as I was poking around the bargain bin a couple of inexpensive Fokker E.V kits caught my eye. Just as I reached for one of the Fokkers I happened to spy a small model box of an interesting parasol winged aeroplane that I was not familiar with. 

 

The kit was one of Ko Pro's earlier releases of the Skoda D.1. After a quick look, it looked like it may have been a copy of one of the first issues of kit or at least the box art indicated so. However, on the side of the box the "made in Czechoslovakia" was scratched out with a black maker and a sticker on the box indicated that it was "made in the Czech Republic" dating this issue to sometime around or after 1993. Old stock perhaps?

 

For those that don't know and I certainly didn't at that time, the Skoda D.1 was a license built version of the French Dewoitine D.21 which in turn was a development of Dewoitine D.12 which was a one of the various developments of the Dewoitine D.1. The D.1 was the first aeroplane designed by Emile Dewoitine and was a parasol winged monoplane having a metal oval section fuselage with  duralumin sheet skinning and fabric covered wing.

 

This kit itself is made of a white plastic that is neither too soft nor too hard and has very little flash. Surface detail is not over done and quite acceptable for kit in this scale. The only real issue is that there is a bit of a depression on the upper mid wing - not too obvious but in such a location that I am not going to bother try to fix it as the repair would undoubtedly do more to damage the surrounding area than to actually fix this minor complexion issue. There is a total of a couple dozen parts most of which are various small bits like struts and the like plus two machine guns which I will not be using.  Parts fit is not "fall together" Tamiya but should not present any challenges other than the need to spend the time dry fitting and adjusting as needed.

 

Decals are well beyond yellowing and fast approaching an interesting shade of orange. I don't have anything suitable in the spare decals box so I will need to either paint on the marking, roll my own, or a combination of both.

 

p?i=ead452e2561ecd3086eddb8bf390a3fb

 

A search for reference did not find much and as far as colour schemes only a few artists colour profile renditions. My initial thoughts are to finish with a basic silver aluminum finish and a red tail similar to this:

 

https://www.airplanephoto.net/camouflage/d-1/img00004.htm

 

Lack of reference material is probably a good thing as it will keep me from trying to add too much extra detail which will hopefully make for a simpler build.

 

cheers, Graham

 

Edited by ColonelKrypton
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Welcome to the Group Build, Graham.

I used to have of these kits, but never quite got round to building it, so I'll be following your build with particular interest :popcorn:

 

Cheers

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  • ColonelKrypton changed the title to Kovozávody Prostějov Škoda D.1 plastikovy model 1/72 - some progress and something to fuss over
On 8/13/2021 at 8:00 PM, stevehnz said:

https://www.hobbyshop.cz/shop/en/1-72-decals-air/15891-apc72117-skoda-d1-1-72-decal.html

A couple of options there. He is good to deal with. I'll be keen to see this come together.

Steve.

 

Steve,

 

I have already stumbled over those decals and they are tempting but I think I will have a go at making my own - I have some decal paper a printer and have already been playing. Nothing ventured nothing gained.

 

cheers, Graham

 

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My preferred scale for WW1 and early aeroplane types is 1/48 but I kicking myself out of my comfort zone and pushing myself to work in smaller scales. The goal is to have a go at something interesting in 1/144 scale and have made a stop on my journey to warm up with some 1/72 scale kits. 

 

This kit's interior is pretty basic and barren, nothing more than a floor, seat, stick, rudder bar, and nondescript instrument panel with a few half hearted circles and knobs.

 

I didn't want to take this kit too seriously but I just couldn't let that boring interior stand as is. So, the first point of order was to add some interior structure so as to make it a bit more interesting and less boring.

 

After a few hours of fussing with 0.010" square rod for stringers and some 0.015" sheet to make some formers and bits from the bits box the basic interior structure was put in order.  Since I did not have any reference material showing and interior shot of the Skoda D.1 the next best thing I could I do was use an interior shot of a modern refurbished Dewontine D.26 that being of the same basic lineage will at least provide a guide. And, the external detail of rivets and panels provided a basic guide as well.  Keeping it simple I did not scrape out any of the fuselage interior - the scale thickness of the plastic sides is on the order of several inches. Consequently with my added  interior structure the interior will be a bit crowded but that is OK as I really only wanted to add enough detail to make the interior more interesting without getting carried with worrying too much about scale.  I cheated, I didn't really use 0.010" square but rather 0.010" round rod but you can't really tell the difference ;)

 

p?i=a258035f2989e1f64ed3a5999d72bd5f

 

I do a lot of scratch building wee bitty parts. Sometimes it is difficult to get these small bits squarely aligned. I have a couple of 2" machinists squares that work a treat but something even simpler is a couple of large nuts.  Something along the line of stainless steel nuts for 3/4" or so bolts. The sides are surprisingly square to the faces but some nuts are better than others. I have a few smaller on hand for the same purpose and they are also handy as small weights for holding bits in place.  The picture shows a couple that I made from 1" Stainless hex rod.

 

p?i=118bb7ac90c9227add6f399b751b8037

 

And now something to ponder over...

 

The quality of this kit is OK. It has it's faults but considering it is a 30+ year old kit first produced in Czechoslovakia and then Czech Republic it is certainly not in the same class as the finest modern offerings of Tamiya or Eduard. Noted earlier is a sink mark on the top side of the wing and now after much test fitting I have discovered some distortion along the upper area of the fuselage. Seems the right side is wee bit taller than the left side. Once you know what to look for you can easily see the difference. Whether this was a result of a fault in the mold or post molding it is unknown. The result is that it will be necessary to do some blending but the challenge will be to do so without messing up the fine surface detail. The fuselage and wing have very fine raised detail - certainly out of scale but is actually not overdone and looks the part. A couple of coats of primer and paint should temper some of this external raised detail. Keeping that in mind it will be challenging to blend that upper spine distortion while protecting that detail. I will certainly have to accept some imperfection and it will be hard to decide between too much and too little.

 

In the photo you can see difference as the dark grey line ( 2B pencil rubbed on the edge ).

 

p?i=f58c3bf4525d2dd4a4bf6444f18d3ae0

 

cheers, Graham 

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Nice work so far Graham - your added details are a big improvement :thumbsup2:

 

FWIW, my approach to your fuselage joint problem would be to completely remove all the raised detail that straddles the joint, removing the detail all the way back to the next intact panel line.  You are in effect creating a smooth panel at the top of the fuselage (which you can then easily fill and sand as you need too).   It's a compromise, but I find that having a whole panel smooth (rather than trying to retain or restore partial detail), generally looks better because it looks intentional.  The effect would be exactly the same as you've already got on the leading edge of the tail fin.  I hope that makes sense!

 

Cheers

 

 

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  • ColonelKrypton changed the title to Kovozávody Prostějov Škoda D.1 plastikovy model 1/72 - a bit slow but still moving along

The weather of late has been hot and humid. This is typical of late summer in Eastern Ontario as the tropical storms and hurricanes that form in the South Atlantic  move up the Eastern US seaboard pumping hot and humid air from the Gulf up into the lower Great Lakes, Southern Ontario and Eastern Quebec. Tends to make one not want to do too much - the dog days of summer.

 

In any case, I was able to park my butt in front of the workbench and tinker with a few things. The cockpit floor and seat are now fettled and fussed over and fitted in place as is the control column and rudder bar. the control column was made from a #0 insect pin ( about 0.3mm diameter ) with the plastic head filed down to shape. The hand piece is a bit large perhaps but once the fuselage is put together there will not be much seen. Control column was mounted to a 0.025" bit of plastic rod with a 0.3mm through hole to hold the control column and the rudder bar a simple piece of 0.015" plastic rod and all mounted in place with a bit of CA. End result is a bit crude, a bit skewed, and a bit off center but like everything else in the cockpit will not be that visible once the fuselage is all buttoned up.

 

p?i=bcb158ee03e26c16c8e8322676754ffd

 

When working with small bits of metal and plastic and using CA to glue these bits together I find it invaluable to use a bit a CA accelerator to "set" everything in place after a bit of fussing. I first use a bit of Tamiya light green cap Extra Thin Quick Dry cement to tack the plastic bits in place and then apply a wee bit of thick CA with a fine needle. Then using my DIY CA accelerator applicator I can apply a wee tiny drop or whiff of accelerator to fix the bits in place. The applicator is made from an eye dropper squeeze bulb and a fine tip CA applicator tube.

A picture paints a thousand words...

 

p?i=a09f76ea51ade840f87c87e1ea76e84c

 

Next up will be to fit the instrument panel such as it is and then the interior will be ready for primer and paint this weekend, maybe...

 

cheers, Graham

 

Edited by ColonelKrypton
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  • ColonelKrypton changed the title to Kovozávody Prostějov Škoda D.1 plastikovy model 1/72 - best laid schemes o’ Mice an’ Men Gang aft agley

Has it really been over a month since my last post? Time flies and it seems as though I am always busy working on one thing or another.

 

My reference to Robert Burns is not without note. Living in small rural farming town and Fall upon us, the cooler weather has prompted me to start those end of summer tasks preparing for the much cooler days ahead including preparing traps for those tim'rous wee beasties that try to nest in our dwelling. 

 

Progress on the Skoda has been slow in part due to other distractions but also to the many cycles of filling and sanding the worst bits of the fit of this kit. Overall the kit is not that bad for such an old kit and one of Eastern European origin. The raised surface detail is delicate but in 1/72 scale perhaps a bit too thick. A bit of paint should temper that and help make that detail look the part.

 

At the moment I now have the interior painted, the fuselage closed up, landing gear attached, and tail planes fitted in place with offending seams faired in. Gaps between the tail planes and fuselage where quite large and were filled with bits of stretched sprue and Mr. Hobby dissolved putty - the sprue to fill the bulk of gaps and the dissolved putty to smooth it all up.

 

I tried to use as much of the bits and pieces from the kit as possible and my first attempt at using the supplied kit bits for the tail plane struts was less than satisfactory. These were replaced with 0.5mm brass rod which while maybe a wee bit too big in diameter worked out much better.

 

The blob of plastic in the kit representing the tail skid was just that - a short curved bit that was really too short and didn't look the part. I replaced that with one made from 0.8mm brass rod filed flat and formed into something that better looked the part.  The Brass rod was held in a slide lock pin vise making the job of filing it flat very easy. The challenge when working with small bits is hanging on to them while you do the work. I find these slide lock pin vises very handing for holding to small bits.  After filing flat and forming to shape, two holes where drilled with a #80 drill ( about 0.35mm )

 

p?i=d0163ba4b3d33c4580a7893a5c069638

 

Just above the pin vises are two jewellers burs. I find these very hand for deburring and countersinking tiny holes and they work equally well on brass as on plastic.

 

The two holes where to let me pin the tail skid in place on the fuselage.

 

p?i=1793214479ca203956f47ff413d976a1

 

A wee drop of CA and the tailskid is fixed in place.

 

p?i=e9c23ecd24239e1009fb665e36dc81e4

 

I have made two attempts at fitting the cabane and main wing struts but each time failed. First attempt was using the kits provided plastic bits but I failed miserably. Second attempt was using purpose made bit from Evergreen styrene rod but this too ended with a less than stellar result.

 

I have since had a bit of brain storm and am preparing attempt three hoping that three times will be the charm.  

 

I had been hoping to have had it all assembled and painted and fussing over markings but that is not the case. This has not been too difficult a kit, just a lot of fussing over fit. Interest has been on and off and I would really like to get it done so that I can get on with what I really wanted to build for this group build - Super Secret Project V.  Not really something from a secret project but the V is clue.

 

More to follow.

 

cheers, Graham

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  • ColonelKrypton changed the title to Kovozávody Prostějov Škoda D.1 plastikovy model 1/72 - third time's the charm, mounted, strutted, and braced.

Seems that the third time was the charm for getting the wings and struts on.

 

Replaced the plastic strut bits with brass, 0.5mm brass rod for the cabane struts and flattened 1.4mm thin wall Albion Alloys brass tube for the main struts. All round, much easier to manage and considerably stronger as well. In hindsight, I should have filed the rod I used for cabane struts flat to be resemble the more aerodynamic struts off the original. 

 

p?i=f68357525787ead1d3846634af870cdc

 

My preferred scale for early and WW1 aeroplane types is 1/48 scale.  I have been challenging myself to build stuff outside of my usual comfort zone hence my choice of 1/72 for these types. I am finding that some of the ways I build 1/48 don't always scale the way I would have thought to 1/72.  In the end however, I think that by challenging myself to build in this smaller scale will help in the way I build in the larger scale if I ever go back.

 

The Skoda D.1 had a minimum of rigging, three wire on the landing gear, two crossing wires on the main struts and similar two crossing wires on the cabane struts. I had considered only adding the rigging on the landing gear but in the end decided to add the rigging to main struts but ignore the bracing on the cabane struts as being just a bit too fiddly especially after having made three attempts at getting the struts and wing mounted.

 

p?i=6b60534e0cbba5d2be4f2bf66f14e476

 

A bit more fussing with some detail sanding and spot filling and it will be ready for primer and paint.

 

p?i=cdf803384f166aa9d39ac1b486015222

 

Til next time,

 

cheers, Graham

 

 

 

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On 9/27/2021 at 4:20 AM, CliffB said:

It's the first time that I've seen flattened hollow tube used.

 

Flattened thin wall tubing is a common way for making struts but probably more common with the WW1 type builders in the larger 1/48 and 1/32 scale. Typically you would put a small diameter wire or brass rod in the tube before squeezing.

 

The goal is to produce a somewhat streamlined shape - the wire or rod keeps the tube from being compressed too flat. I tried that here in 1/72 scale but the strut appeared to be too thick so I went with no rod and squeezed a wee bit more producing a more flat shape rather than streamlined. The end result was something looked the part and that was the goal.

 

Albion Alloys had a product called the Strutter that is used to squeeze the tube to an airfoil like shape. I don't have one and I am not sure it is still available.  There is a video on Youtube showing it's use:

 

 

 

There have been other similar tools available but I couldn't point anyone in the right direction in order to get one.  Seems a good idea that sells out quickly but then they're gone.

 

cheers, Graham

 

 

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9 hours ago, ColonelKrypton said:

Flattened thin wall tubing is a common way for making struts but probably more common with the WW1 type builders in the larger 1/48 and 1/32 scale. Typically you would put a small diameter wire or brass rod in the tube before squeezing.

 

 

Thanks Graham, that was all very helpful.

Luckily, I've still got a collection of Strutz to work through, but I have just recently noticed @AdrianMF (IIRC), also using the tube flattening technique to produce some very effective exhaust stubs :coolio:.

 

P1120595.JPG

 

Cheers

 

 

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I am familiar with Strutz but have never been lucky enough to have and use any. 

 

My recollection is that it was made in UK and there was just not enough demand so production stopped. I seem to recall that it was manually made using draw plates much like a jeweler would use to draw metal into various wire shapes.

 

There are jewelers draw plates available that could be used. A 38% oval draw plate of 3mm to 1mm size. For example Contenti in the US lists these:

 

https://contenti.com/oval-drawplates   The 38% oval 3mm to 1mm is listed on sale on for about $60 USD. A bit pricey but an option if it was going to be used frequently. Drawing plates do require a bit of effort to use and good sturdy vise and workbench although it would be easy to pull something like the Albion Alloys thin wall tubing through one once you got started.

 

3D printing a squeeze die is another option like this one:  https://www.shapeways.com/product/N6N2WG6JA/1-32-fokker-d-vii-quot-strut-smasher-quot-tool   but is sized for 1/32.

 

My mantra is to usually "keep it simple stupid" i.e. KISS so for now I think I will just stay with the simple method of squashing the thin wall tubing in a smooth jaw vise with or without the internal rod as needed.

 

cheers, Graham 

 

 

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  • ColonelKrypton changed the title to Kovozávody Prostějov Škoda D.1 plastikovy model 1/72 - primed, first colour coat, and starting to fuss over decals

The Fall weather has been rather nice of late. After a few wet and dreary days there was finally sun and drier conditions so it was time to break out the airbrush and get the Skoda primed.

 

Of late my preferred primer is Alclad II Black primer with microfiller and also in white.  I can use either black or white as is or mix a grey as deemed appropriate for the job at hand. These primers are lacquer and go on smooth, cover well, and are airbrush ready right out of the bottle. They dry to a somewhat semi gloss egg shell finish

 

Since the Skoda was going to have a bare metal aluminum and silver finish I used the black. Left for 24 hours and then the first colour coat of Tamiya AS-12 Bare Metal Silver from a spray can. 

 

p?i=933b48a90c200bcefaed81665c2f0089

 

Lighting in the workshop is a bit on the dull side and primarily fluorescent and makes the colour look a little more like a metallic grey in the photos but it is actually quite a nice bare metal silver.

 

p?i=b0197ae5f4c413d2ae2e759640fd155a

 

Colour looks a little better in the this second photo and you can also see some of the molding sinks in the wing upper surface that I mentioned in an earlier post. Hindsight is 20-20 and after having primed and colour coated, the surface detail of the kit could have done with a wee bit of light sanding knock it back a bit but just a bit mind you. I wonder if all KP kits of this type suffer from the same molding sinks?  Likely not as it is probably not a mold issue but rather technique.

 

p?i=fd0a57972e578ea71289a751030d5c6e

 

Next up is to mask and paint the tail, paint the wheels, and decide what to do about the propeller. I have started to fuss over markings and have something prepared to make my own decals. Hopefully it will all work out. 

 

In most photographs of the original aircraft a somewhat odd shaped fixed pitch all metal propeller is seen. The example in my kit is recognizable but being the same color as rest of aeroplane it would not be very interesting.  I did find a couple of reference photos where the aeroplane was fitted with a wood propeller so I think I will go that route. I will need to dig through the spare bits to find something suitable. 

 

The end is sight.

 

cheers, Graham

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This is looking very nice Graham and I'm sure the big colourful decals will help to disguise any slight imperfections in the wing surface :thumbsup2:

I'm also a fan of Alclad primers and usually use the white one as the 'white paint' for airliners etc.

 

Cheers

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13 hours ago, CliffB said:

I'm also a fan of Alclad primers and usually use the white one as the 'white paint' for airliners etc.

 

That is an interesting idea; I had never considered that use. I will have to remember that and give it  a try when the opportunity presents itself.

 

cheers, Graham

 

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On 10/5/2021 at 4:48 AM, CliffB said:

and I'm sure the big colourful decals will help to disguise any slight imperfections in the wing surface

 

I don't there are any decals big or thick enough to hide the deep voids in this kits wing surface.  I just accepted it for what it was and carried on. 

 

After letting the silver coat dry thoroughly, I masked and sprayed the red on the tail surfaces.  Tamiya spray can TS-49 Bright Red was used as it looked like a good match to the red seen in one of the few colour profiles I could find of this aircraft.  Blue was another choice but I thought red would be brighter and more interesting a colour.

 

p?i=605761485f725c5784ab8ef96529ccbb

 

And then it was time to turn my attention to decals.  I purposely choose to finish this as a non specific aircraft and therefore limited my markings to only a few but hopefully enough to make it interesting. National insignia on the upper and lower wing and on the tail plane plus a lion on each fuselage side. I had considered ordering a set APC's really nice decals for the Skoda D.1 but wasn't sure if the mail would get them to me on time. Sometimes the mail seems to take months and other times it is lickety split fast. 

 

So, I hunted around on the internet and found some .jpg images that I could suitably scale and print my own off on a laser printer and white decal paper. The trouble with working with .jpg or similar file formats is that when scaled they can get a bit ragged or pixelated around the edges and colour can be weird. After some fussing and considering that I might just bite the bullet and draw my own from scratch using InkScape, I managed to produce something that looked like they were going to work.

 

Sometime ago I purchased a Dspiae stepless circle cutter. Using a centering gauge I attempted to cut out the round insignia. I got close but always seemed to be out about half a mm leaving a white edge around part of the insignia. Falling back to the age old technique of scissors and using a pair of curved blade cuticle scissors I worked through the tedious and fiddly work of cutting out the insignia. The large ones on the wings were the easiest and look like they turned out OK; the small ones on the tail were a bit more fussy and I can see a wee bit of white in places around the outside edge.   The decals went on OK but required several applications of Solvaset to get them to snuggle down acceptably.

 

p?i=0e2539709203095b43326636d2e58f58

 

Sorry, a bit out of focus ;)

 

Next up was getting the wheels painted and for this I did make good use of the Dspiae circle cutter to cut masks. I don't know how I managed previously. This thing makes it so easy.  While cutting masks for the wheels I discovered that one wheel is a wee bit larger than the other - no problem, just make a tiny adjustment to the cutter and voila! a proper size mask in two tries. My favourite cutting board for this type of work is a white ceramic tile; the tile in the photo is about 200 x 250 mm and has a smooth but not shiny surface.

 

p?i=e0ff67246d2a9fbd4d6ff2edd0d66b34

 

Yet to do, paint the leather coaming around the cockpit, install the windscreen ( if I can find it, seems to have wondered off somewhere ;( ), paint up a suitable propeller, and a bit of dark washes around the radiator and such and touch up the rigging and tailskid with a bit more contrasting steel colour. 

 

If all continues to go as planned then my next post should be the completed Skoda D.1.

 

til next time, cheers, Graham 

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  • ColonelKrypton changed the title to Kovozávody Prostějov Škoda D.1 plastikovy model 1/72 - in the home stretch ...
  • ColonelKrypton changed the title to Kovozávody Prostějov Škoda D.1 plastikovy model 1/72 - the end is in sight...

Finally at the point where I am able to finish off the last wee bits needing attention in order to finish this build.

 

A bit of detail paint on the tail skid, leather cockpit coaming, a bit of dark wash on the radiator and other grilles and finally the propeller.

 

The kit provided propeller is the one most often found on pictures of the Skoda D.1. It was an all aluminum fixed pitch propeller of domestic design and manufacture. It has an odd twist shape to it and is not the most attractive of propellers. However, there are a few pictures of the Skoda D.1 with a wood propeller. I choose to use a wood propeller to make my build a bit different and add a bit more colour. A suitable looking propeller was found in the bits box; it's most likely source was one one Roden's WW1 kits, likely one the Albatross'. 

 

After a couple of attempts at painting said propeller I got to a point where it was looking presentable. Next step was to paint the visible part of the propeller. I cut a mask having a 2.5mm hole using my Dspiae stepless circle cutter which fit nicely over the exposed part of the propeller hub and it was set for a bit of paint. Only thing I had at hand which was suitable to paint over the acrylic I used on the propeller was a bit of AK Interactive True Metal Iron thinned with a bit of odorless mineral spirits and applied with a 10/0 paint brush. After a night of drying I will apply a bit of dark wash to hopefully bring out a bit of the details. 

 

p?i=16d859567319dde25dbbb54b25f6bf41

 

I also spent a some time making a very simple display stand using a wood frame plaque from the Dollar Store covered with a bit of heavy paper that was run through my laser printer to produce a simple representation of a grass covered aerodrome field.

 

Final pictures will follow after I tidy things up and take a few pictures of the finished Skoda D.1

 

cheers, Graham

 

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