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1/32 BE2c Scratch build


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13 hours ago, bigbadbadge said:

If so might be better to leave, however will it bug you if you don't?

Good luck with what ever you decide Richie.

 

13 hours ago, Bandsaw Steve said:

I didn’t notice any issues with the band. I would leave it for fear of doing more harm than good. They may have been hand-painted in any case. 

Thanks Steve and Chris, sadly I decided late last night to mask and repaint and in my hurry ended up with some overspray. I will need to correct that but that will cause some loss of translucency. Only very minor as a roundel will be painted over part of it. I should have left it, lesson learned!

 

1 hour ago, AngryJazz said:

Wow this is some impressive work!

Thank you so much for taking time to read and comment. Much appreciated!

 

I finished work early today, hurrah! I will correct the overspray and hopefully paint the roundels and finish adding the retaining studs tonight. I forgot to add the 'leather' reinforcements around the rudder control horns so I must add them too.

 

Richie 

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I'd be tempted to do it now because it's clearly bugging you - if you use a water-based acrylic it should wipe off or scratch off with a cocktail stick if it goes pear-shaped. It looks like you just need a triangle of black with the base at the rear of the band and the apex at the stitching to straighten it off a bit.

 

Wonderful work. The translucent fuselage is gorgeous - you will have to backlight it on your shelf!

 

Regards,

Adrian

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51 minutes ago, AdrianMF said:

Wonderful work. The translucent fuselage is gorgeous - you will have to backlight it on your shelf!

Thanks so much Adrian, sadly my shelf is where models get shot down by dusters and even next door's cat so it will get put in a box and hidden away. 😔

 

I have been doing a bit of careful masking and repainting. I'm praying peeling the masks off will reveal success. There may be cursing if not!

 

Richie

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-I wish you the best to definitvely overcome this  last minute paint trouble. You've found the right solution. In modelling problems come often from what seems like simple routine 

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20 hours ago, IPMS19 said:

-I wish you the best to definitvely overcome this  last minute paint trouble. You've found the right solution. In modelling problems come often from what seems like simple routine 

Many thanks, yes the simple routines seem to cause me the most trouble. I think I rush them, get careless anet d cock things up. 

 

I did a bit of touching up after masking more carefully and am more happy with the result. Not perfect by any means but acceptable to me.

I can't paint the roundels on yet but I did finish adding all the little studs. I think there are 95 on each side all individually placed. I was relieved to have such a dull, repetitious task requiring very little skill. I am more relieved now that part is finished. 

 

52740421368_5f3d5d75f8_c.jpg20230311_112457 by Richard Williams, on Flickr

 

An improvement but I can't help thinking brush painting would have been a lot easier and produced better results.

 

Richie

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Hi everybody, Spring is in the air and the undercarriage has been on my mind, sorry couldn't help myself!

 

The wheels needed to be made complete with wheel covers suggesting the spokes underneath. I faffed about a good deal with experiments involving styrene circles, wire and deep fill car primer but results were not very pretty shocking.

 

After much experimentation I cut circles with my new toy (DSPIAE circle cutter) and made a sandwhich of 3 discs. The inner disc is 17mm and the outers 18mm, this enables the tyre to be seated on the wheel. The great thing about this tool is that you can cut concentric circles but you can also use it to mark the centre of a circle.

 

52754613557_bf5d3d2202_c.jpg20230317_125131 by Richard Williams, on Flickr

 

The tyre is just a rubber O ring.

 

For the conical wheel covers I cut discs from 0.2mm styrene with the centre marked. I calculated the circumference of the discs, divided by 19 and marked segments round the edge.

 

52755560160_768e2098b3_c.jpg20230317_125617 by Richard Williams, on Flickr

 

With the centre marked it is easy to drill a 0.5mm hole (the same width as my pencil lead) and mark out the 'spokes' all starting from dead centre. The spokes don't show through to the edge of the wheel cover so a limiting line was marked on each. If I knew where my compass was this would have been much simpler.

 

52755559990_7dd089c2f0_c.jpg20230317_132414 by Richard Williams, on Flickr

 

Cutting out one slice gives a 36 spoke wheel (18 each side)

 

52755151956_f7f6322aaa_c.jpg20230317_212541 by Richard Williams, on Flickr

 

Continuity errors are down to the photos being from many failed attempts. :(

 

The spokes are the embossed with a ball point pen. Using a steel ruler the wheel cover is gently folded along each line to give a conical shape. The edges are then CA'd together and the join reinforced with tissue paper soaked in more CA glue.

 

After gluing to the main wheel body, a shot of primer and matt black we have wheels.

 

52755395019_03da8a51c2_c.jpg20230318_142424 by Richard Williams, on Flickr

 

Work continues on the fuselage, the engine bearers were a little splayed so the nose is clamped in a vice until the araldite I glued a cross brace to goes off. Hopefully you can just about see the tiny brass punched rivets representing screw heads along the wood strip at the bottom of the fuselage. They should run around the outside of the lower surface too but I'm not entirely sure I can be bothered as they will never be seen. The tail fin is just sitting in place and will be glued once the serial number has been added.

 

52755559875_46eb51f2be_c.jpg20230318_145848 by Richard Williams, on Flickr

 

That about sums it up, many hours spent but most of it on failed attempts to make wheel covers. 

 

Thanks for reading, the next update should feature some vac forming and possibly a spot of engine action.

 

Richie

 

 

Edited by RichieW
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7 minutes ago, IPMS19 said:

- Thank you for the lesson.....To be kept in mind

It was quite easy to do once I had the method sorted out. Hope it can be of use to you soon. 

 

 

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1 hour ago, bigbadbadge said:

Great update Richie, the work on the wheels is fantastic,  they look great, would love to get one of those cutters myself.

Fuselage is looking great with the tail on and all the studs etc.

Cracking work

Chris

Cheers Chris, I'm getting there slowly. First impressions of the circle cutter are very good, it's beautifully made and easy to use.

 

39 minutes ago, Bandsaw Steve said:

Great work! The wheels look very convincing. 👍

Cheers mate, I'm well chuffed with them. Wish they hadn't taken, including all the fails, 2 days to make but if they worked out first time I wouldn't be sipping this rather nice glass of rum in celebration! ;)

 

Richie

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Still on the undercarriage, the BE2c tail skid is horrendously complicated.

 

52760415756_ac8715d801_c.jpgBE2C tail skid - photo by James Fahey. by Richard Williams, on Flickr

 

Many compromises were needed in order to make a structurally sound part. I abandoned the idea of using EZline for the bungee suspension and opted for 0.5mm brass rod instead. The wooden skid was whittled from a cocktail stick and the metal fittings simulated with paint.

 

The main support was made in the same way as the main undercarriage legs.

 

52760780468_fc2b236f6c_c.jpgBE2c tail skid under construction by Richard Williams, on Flickr

 

52760292326_9d27b67975_c.jpg1/32 BE2c tail skid by Richard Williams, on Flickr

 

I'm really pleased with the result, it's a good enough representation of a tail skid. Certainly good enough for me. Just the 4 metal support legs to add, these don't need to be structural so I may just use styrene rod.

 

52760625514_f2ee3c3464_c.jpg20230320_195725 by Richard Williams, on Flickr

 

 

The main undercarriage was the devil's own job to fit but after fighting with it all yesterday morning I managed to beat it into submission and she is up on her feet.

 

52760783065_630f878214_c.jpg20230320_195659 by Richard Williams, on Flickr

 

Thanks for dropping by

Richie

 

 

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The tailskid and undercarriage are works of art. I have found that making strong tail skids in this scale difficult because they are so fragile when they are so small. Your solution looks really strong.

 

P

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Thanks chaps, I have memorialised the beautiful moment when 2 scratch built BE2s sat atop the WIP page. Surely a historic BM moment!

 

52761321401_98b1746613_c.jpgScreenshot_20230320_211528_Chrome by Richard Williams, on Flickr

 

Got to dash...back to the bench to finish the tail skid. :)

 

Richie

 

 

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Just now, bigbadbadge said:

Certainly is an historic moment Richie, it's great you captured that in your screen shot too. 

Chris

 I may have been a little bit mischievous in my promotion of scratch building this morning. ;)

 

52761456281_d4eea2c37e_c.jpgScreenshot_20230321_093123_Chrome by Richard Williams, on Flickr

 

Back to normal!

 

Richie

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10 minutes ago, hendie said:

craftsmanship. Great work on that tail skid  Richi

Cheers Hendie, I'm having fun and games trying to complete the supporting arms at the moment. I'll get them done but there may be a bit of swearing and cursing involved. 

 

Richie

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29 minutes ago, hendie said:

craftsmanship. Great work on that tail skid  Richi

Don’t worry about the scratchbuilding craftsmanship, it’s the scratchbuilding salesmanship I’m impressed with!

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18 minutes ago, Brandy said:

Nice work on the landing gear! Unfortunately though someone has posted since I commented on Phoenix' post!

 

Ian

Cheers Ian, I may just have fixed that! :)

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Thanks so much for the interest and good humour everybody, it really does the mojo a power of good. It makes such a big difference.

 

I went to the bench at 10 this morning and it has taken until now (4pm) to finish the tail skid.

 

52762367999_a62b63d793_c.jpgTail skid completed by Richard Williams, on Flickr

 

The four supporting arms were made from copper tube which I chose over brass as it is easier to drill and bend without splitting.

 

I was a bit too absorbed to take progress pics but what I did was cut 4 lengths of tube and squash the ends. One end of each had a 0.5mm hole drilled and a short length of brass rod inserted. The front arms were then positioned in mounting holes in the fuselage via the brass pins which enabled me to bend them so they lined up. With these in position the process was repeated for the rear arms. It all sounds simple enough and it actually was but the alignment took hours to get right.  According to the extreme close up there is a bit of touching up to do but the Mk I eyeballs don't agree. I'll go with nature I think or I will never finish!

 

52762818498_a97fb36a11_c.jpg1/32 BE2c scratch build by Richard Williams, on Flickr

 

I've had a really enjoyable few days at the bench but that's me done for the week. 

 

Thanks for dropping by, all criticisms, tips and p*ss taking gratefully received

Richie

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