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1/32 BE2c Scratch build


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Great work so far. As for weathering the IP, there’s nothing wrong with factory fresh, doesn’t have to look lived in. I almost never weather my aircraft builds but for some reason always ( well almost always) heavily weather any armour I build. 

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Hi everybody, I had hoped to get a lot done this week but have been plagued by migraines. Today I actually woke up with a clear head and got a little bit done. The wicker seat will have to wait for now, it looks like the kind of job that could be a major headache even when in the best of health!

What I did manage was to whittle a rudder bar from styrene and add the footboards and a few bits and bobs. Hopefully 2 photographs of the same thing makes up a little for the lack on any meaningful progress. This one definitely will not be all over by Christmas!

51500420798_9145babd2f_c.jpg20210921_181715 by Richard Williams, on Flickr

 

51500194661_afc03cd9cd_c.jpg20210921_181401 by Richard Williams, on Flickr

Hopefully I shall have a bit more to show soon!

Many thanks for looking.

Richie

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12 minutes ago, bigbadbadge said:

The woodwork looks absolutely lovely and the floor plates and Rudder bar look fab too,  great work Richie.

Chris

Thanks Chris, the floor plates are foil from a cigarette packet. I love using bits I find laying around! I am glad you like the rudder bar, this is the third one I made after one pinged off and vanished into thin air and another got broken by over zealous filing. 

 

I can't help but think that somewhere a mischievous spirit is sitting atop a massive horde of tiny model parts! 🤔 

 

Richie 

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51 minutes ago, RichieW said:

I can't help but think that somewhere a mischievous spirit is sitting atop a massive horde of tiny model parts! 🤔 

It's that bloomin carpet monster,  you should be okay now you have made a sacrifice to it!!!

 

Cigarette pack foil, wicked, I love finding and using things too.  

Great work 

Chris

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  • 4 weeks later...
On 21/09/2021 at 23:46, hendie said:

Looking the part Richie. Don't worry, the seat is actually pretty easy once you get started,  and I found it very enjoyable to make.

You were so right it was great fun, more of which later!

 

Well it's been an age since I last did an update. In fact I didn't get any modelling done at all between the last update and a couple of days ago, life often has a way of b*ggering up one's hobby time!

 

Thanks for bearing with me, it's been a while since I have been able to do any modelling but I've managed to get some seats made in the last few days.

The pilot's seat is folded metal but the observer sat on a wicker seat of the type we all know and love.

For the pilot's seat I just cut out some aluminium sheet and added some score lines to make folding easier. This was done with a scalpel, 6 strokes for a cut line and just one for a fold line. By bending the sheet back and forth along the cut lines the required part was easily removed. The seat was then folded and CA'd together before coating with primer. I made a few before I was happy, this photo shows the process but neither of these got used. I will show you the finished item later.

 

51588364198_8dd67a0d74_z.jpgBE2c seats by Richard Williams, on Flickr


The wicker seat involved a bit of trickery courtesy of Hendie's Sopwith Camel build. The seats footprint was drawn onto 0.5mm styrene sheet and holes were drilled to receive the uprights. A length of 0.5mm brass rod was inserted into a 1mm copper tube to prevent it kinking while I bent it into shape round a pen top. The brass rod was then bent again to create the uprights. Two more lengths of rod were added to complete the main frame. The copper tube was later treated to a coat of Mr Dissolved putty to represent the leather padding.

 

51587308947_755f2458eb_z.jpgBE2c seats by Richard Williams, on Flickr

Aluminium wire mesh was then folded around the frame, CA'd into place and carefully snipped into shape with scissors. I left a lot of excess styrene base for ease of handling.

51588363703_e99e264622_z.jpgBE2c seats by Richard Williams, on Flickr

Seat cushions were made from milliput and the piping was added with 0.3mm lead wire. I found it best to glue one side of the 'piping' down before bending the next part of the shape. The wicker weave was done with Prym elastic, probably not the most exciting job but it didn't take as long as I thought..

 

51587309522_f47cf9bb46_z.jpgBE2c seats by Richard Williams, on Flickr



A lick of paint when I got home from work today and the seats are done.

 

51588512571_71c4e562ca_z.jpgScratched 1/32 BE2c seats by Richard Williams, on Flickr

 



Scratched 1/32 BE2c seats by Richard Williams, on Flickr

Quite a lengthy post for so little progress but I was so excited to be back at the bench at long last. Unfortunately I won't get any time at all next week but hopefully there won't be such a long wait for the next update.

Thanks for reading,
Richie

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An excellent update Richie, loving the seats and cushions,  is the Aluminium mesh tge type used for car body/filler repairs? 

Lovely details on the seats and will have to remember when doing my Camels. 

 

Great work fella, I was starting to worry after not seeing one of your updates for a while, glad you are back on this ace build. 

Chris

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23 minutes ago, bigbadbadge said:

An excellent update Richie, loving the seats and cushions,  is the Aluminium mesh tge type used for car body/filler repairs? 

Lovely details on the seats and will have to remember when doing my Camels. 

 

Great work fella, I was starting to worry after not seeing one of your updates for a while, glad you are back on this ace build. 

Chris

Cheers Chris, it's great to be back at it at last. I had a spate of migraines that went on for weeks but all good now. :)

 

The wire mesh was from 4d model shop, I think sculptors  use it. It's very cheap, holds its shape well and is available with different size holes.

 

Richie

 

 

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3 minutes ago, RichieW said:

Cheers Chris, it's great to be back at it at last. I had a spate of migraines that went on for weeks but all good now. :)

 

The wire mesh was from 4d model shop, I think sculptors  use it. It's very cheap, holds its shape well and is available with different size holes.

 

Richie

 

 

Crikey fella, hope you're feeling better now, thanks for the tip too.

Chris

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  • 1 year later...

Well it's been over a year since I was able to do any modelling. Nothing more sinister than losing my work space while my better half worked from home but she took pity on me a few weeks ago and I have spent many happy hours tinkering with bits and bobs.

 

52463486320_653b799aa9_z.jpgTail fin, fuel tank and bamboo struts. by Richard Williams, on Flickr

 

The struts are made from bamboo coffee stirrers and have 0.5mm brass pins in each end. The amin fuel tank is styrene card with reinforcing straps from 1mm Tamiya tape and punched 0.5 mm rivets.

 

The tail fin took a couple of days to make, the rib tapes are made from strips of white decal paper. When held up to the light the lengthy build time becomes a little more excusable.

 

52463304699_ab9ddb6d4b_z.jpgBe2c Translucent tail fin. by Richard Williams, on Flickr

 

I intend to make the wings in the same way so the model will be naturally translucent and look different in changing light like the real thing. It will be a very long process but if it works it will/ might be worth it.

 

Finally I made the firewall from 0.15mm aluminium sheet and the gravity tank. The gravity tank is laminated styrene, the only part that might be visible is the filler cap, generally speaking a colossal waste of time but I'm still finding my way with scratch building and need to practice as much as possible. More importantly it was fun to do, it's great to be back in the swing of things. 

 

 

52483338152_0de1573557_z.jpgBE2c gravity tank and firewall by Richard Williams, on Flickr

 

Thanks for dropping by and sorry for the long lay off. I hope to be able to keep updating this project, I am a very slow worker so the next episode will be a week or two.

 

Richie

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More fantastic work Richie, the see-through effects of the tail plane look wonderful as does that fuel tank too.  The struts look great and a cracking idea to use the coffee stirrers. 

Really pleased to see this one back on here.

Great work

Chris

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Thanks Chris, I really appreciate your kind feedback. I'm hoping to get the tail feathers made next, I have a feeling it is going to be a fiddly, sweary, time consuming job! ;)

 

Cheers

Richie

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Thanks Matti, it's been a while but I'm settling back into a routine. Keeping my fingers crossed my better half doesn't decide she needs to use my modelling bench as a work desk again! 😅 

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1 minute ago, billn53 said:

Pray tell, don't leave us in suspense! How did you do the translucent tailfin? (Unless, of course, it is a trade secret).

No trade secrets here! I made the structure from styrene strips and rods. The outer curve was made by bending a styrene strip around the scale plan. I used pins on a balsa block, like in the old Keilcraft stick and tissue models. This was then put in boiling water for 15 minutes. I kept replacing the boiling water to keep it hot then put it in ice cold water. It held the shape really well, gluing the rest of structure enabled me to fine tune the shape. The skin is 0.13mm evergreen styrene. A thin coat of MRP paint were 60:40 white to bleached CDL was airbrushed, white decal rip tapes added and then a final couple of thin coats added. 

 

I have experimented with 0.2mm styrene and it too remains translucent.  Good news because the fuselage is going to need it to add strength enough to take pins for wing attachments and various other bits and bobs.

 

Hope that clears it up....pun intended! :)

 

Cheers

Richie

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1 hour ago, Bandsaw Steve said:

Good to see this one back on track.

Cheers mate, likewise with your Mirage but you are much closer to the finish line than me. Only fitting considering the Mirage was round 1,400 mph faster than this old crate! :)

 

Cheers

Richie

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