Bf109E Canopy

[fishplanebeer]

My next project that I'm now planning is a downed Bf109E from the BoB with one of the new SH kits as the basis. I've never attempted a diorama before so that will be a challenge in itself but I have a question about the Bf109E canopy.

 

Many of the pics of downed 'Emils' show the centre and rear sections of the canopy missing and I think I read somewhere that these could be jettisoned by the pilot prior to landing so is this the case or have I imagined this? In the pics I've seen there is no evidence of the missing canopy sections close to the aircraft just the aerial wire dangling from the fin connection point which would support this. However I just want to check as if they could be jettisoned then I wouldn't have to include the missing sections as part of the diorama.

 

Regards

Colin.

 

Ps. does anyone know who produces realistic artificial hay/long grass as my plan is to show the aircraft is a hay field?

[dov]

For diorama I only can suggest model railway products. To all quality and perfection degrees you can imagine! 1/87, if you consider 72 scale it is fine! Also 48 is good, depending on materials you consider.

The canopy: Jetison, because otherwise you may get trapped!

 

[Black Knight]

10 minutes ago, fishplanebeer said:

 

Many of the pics of downed 'Emils' show the centre and rear sections of the canopy missing and I think I read somewhere that these could be jettisoned by the pilot prior to landing so is this the case or have I imagined this? In the pics I've seen there is no evidence of the missing canopy sections close to the aircraft just the aerial wire dangling from the fin connection point which would support this. However I just want to check as if they could be jettisoned then I wouldn't have to include the missing sections as part of the diorama.

 

Yes, the two could be jettisoned. The cockpit had a single lever the pilot could pull. I suppose it was down to personal decision and circumstance if the pilot jettisoned the canopy

 

Look for 'Static Grass' in model railway shops. You can get it in various lengths and colours. I used some long grass for the crops in this 1/72 diorama

[fishplanebeer]

That's great, I'm assuming then that when the rear canopy section was jettisoned the aerial cable was also cut/disconnected in some way from it to avoid the canopy remaining connected to the tail and ripping a section of it away? From the pics I have the cable still seems to be attached to the fin so this would confirm this, unless it naturally broke away from the aerial in the slip stream?

 

Regards

Colin.

[Hepster]

The canopy could be jettisoned because, being hinged like it is, a belly landing that goes wrong and finishes upside down traps the pilot.  Spits and Hurries can slide their canopies back to avoid this.

 

 

[Bertie McBoatface]

HF aerial wires have weak links at both ends for this sort of situation. They protect the masts and airframe if something violently tugs on the wire, such as a canopy falling away or a clumsy man falling off the spine of a Wessex . 

[Bertie McBoatface]

6 minutes ago, Hepster said:

The canopy could be jettisoned because, being hinged like it is, a belly landing that goes wrong and finishes upside down traps the pilot.  Spits and Hurries can slide their canopies back to avoid this.

 

 

Jettisoning the rearmost section of the Bf109 canopy also to gave a clear exit for parachuting, which is a feature that might have saved many Spitfire and Hurricane pilots.

[fishplanebeer]

Sounds as if the aerial wire could have remained attached to the tail or come away with the rear canopy section so for the purposes of the diorama I'll go with the former to add a wee bit more detail. I think that the angled bulkhead behind pilots head had an opening to allow for storage of small items/effects so if this is correct I plan to have this open and damaged as well.

 

Regards

Colin.

[Merlin]

Sounds great, I rarely see BOB crash dioramas,

Not aware of the kit and it looks good so will get a few.

It looks like you get a correct main cowling for once, make sure you thin out the interior at the nose vents and allow the true shape to occur, see WW2 photos of which there are hundreds, the aft edge is NOT an arc, it is straight then a curved 'corner' and then it arcs downwards , a sort of semi flared nostril look, or shallow otters ears ! Ignore restored White 14 and the next one,  consult Hendons. Also the kidney blister at top rear edge , the sides of that feather down, see hendon or this pic , and note the gap genuine and on all emils :-

 

You also get an Emil fin edge, straight all the way to the aerial post, unlike the entire Eduard range which have a Freda/Gustav fin ! (Eduard were told but said its right, it isnt !)..silly to be defensive and not then realise the mistake and correct it.

A good make of static grass applicator should pull the straw upwards, needs good power, Koch a good one, see the you tube video comparing them. Do apply some wear to the wingtip edges as that straw will strip paint.

Colourcoats have the correct RLM colours, matched to Merrick/Kiroff the bible, apart from Phoenix Precision paints I have not seen correct Luft RLM colours anywhere as yet. Hannants might have so, as they are a bit more careful what they match to. Would need to consult my samples. The rlm65 light blue though only Jamie has that correct, repeat ..only Jamie at Sovereign Hobbies Colourcoats has that correct !

Dont go doing washes on those rivets or even panel lines, Messerschmitt rivets were almost impossible to see, so at 1/72 they would be invisible, so no black dots please, and it will look far more real.

 

I may well feature it in my planned website of BoB aircraft and scenes, if its realistic.

 

Merlin

 

[fishplanebeer]

Paints will be Colourcoats throughout which is probably the easiest decision to make for this project, the rest will be something of a challenge as I've never done a diorama before and for a one off I'm not willing to go to the not inconsiderable expense of buying one of the bespoke 'static applicators' that apparently can make the grass stand up.

 

The example I have in mind is 'Red 14' of 5/JG52 which crash landed in a hay field on 12th August 1940 and had some nice bullet holes (entry and exit) in the fuselage calling for careful use of my Dremel to thin the plastic down and then using a fine/sharp pointed blade to carefully create the damage.

 

I doubt it will be up to the standard you are after for your web site as anyone's first attempt at anything will always be a first step and not the finished article but I'll see how it goes.

 

Regards

Colin.

 

Ps. the rear of the cowling was not a smooth flat fit (as is often shown with most kits) instead having  a deliberate gap or step to facilitate the movement of air over the engine etc. If you look closely at period pics looking forward from the cockpit area you'll see what I mean

[Merlin]

Quote

Ps. the rear of the cowling was not a smooth flat fit (as is often shown with most kits) instead having  a deliberate gap or step to facilitate the movement of air over the engine etc. If you look closely at period pics looking forward from the cockpit area you'll see what I mean

Hi,.... as I also said,  and showed pic to illustrate.

Quote

and note the gap genuine and on all emils

No kit has replicated this, or even got the 'nostrils' correct, except Airfix 1/24, though iI think the Special Hobbys have, or so I hope, three on the way.

 

Note paint around bullet holes flakes off in semicircular ways, not zig zag, upon both entry and exit. Do scale holes, everyone seems to use a large drill and the realism is gone, by avoiding a current fad, and with thought and observation, something very good and realistic can result. Avoid neat silver, add some grey in, avoid coarse pigments, sparkly metallics is ancient modelling now, etc, The fact that you are using Colourcoats is an excellent stage. Those rivets are very clever manufacturing at 1/72 BUT would not be seen at all, I just bought the kits for the shape, having overcome my excitement over the rivets I will mute them down, and certainly dark washes a no no, even panel lines are tricky to see at that scale, no dark washes either on panel lines, all except cowling lines and other gaps as such perhaps, Stitch dashes on fabric surfaces, rub down, would be hardly visible but dont erase,  consult WW2 pics, the best reference we have. Asisbiz site loads of pics and also of this aircraft. Reduce the raised gun trough edges, again they were flush with a visible line. Thin the prop thicknesses down towards tips, something few ever think to do on any prop a/c.  Also note the demarcation line was SOFT on Luft and not dead straight and HARD on RAF, again sheep mode sees the opposite happen. Luft was a tad wavy as hand applied on the skins I have studied up close. The demarcation line on the cowlings was often as such and may well be for red 14., ref Asisbiz. Just google red 14 JG52 Asisbiz and that should get you to his page.  Luft decals I wish were printed in a very light cream/ivory as their Weiss was such and not arctic white, the black was a very dark grey, not jet black. Drill out the trestle hole at Spant 8. The cream colour ring around tail wheel inner rubber area would be a nice touch, many had this but check with red 14. Me109Es had an RLM02 interior , though instances of RLM66 exist and that also was the inst panel in 02 as well as 66 and it makes for a clearer view of the bezels, check with pics. I intend to hand paint mine as such.

Do you intend to add figures, as they can make it or break it, us aircraft modellers find figure painting a mystic art as its a different approach with blending of highlights midtones and shadows, BUT use oils, apply to a piece of car, let the oil wick out,  and you have 3 days to blend, no tide marks, undercoat in a good matt enamel paint of a similar shade of colour, doesnt have to be exact, let cure HARD, then apply midtone and wipe off as much as you can with a clean flat brush, seems odd but essential, the colour will remain, but then is thin, vital for the blending, and apply the highlight (midtone + white, or whatever the sutable mix is for the highlight) in MINUTE amounts, and twizzle the 000 brush tip to blend, you can always add more, can't do any of that with acrylics, they always seem to have a notable change from midtone to highlight, tide marks ! Ditto then the SHADOWS, it will blend as if you have a minute airbrush in use with a pixie operating it. Dont use white for eyes and a dot, use grey or even flesh and a dark blob for the iris cropped at the eyelids. Teeth ivory not white. 5 o'clock shadow a minute amount of black into the mixes. Oils will in fact dry matt ! Get more tips from an oil painting figures forum. BMSS for example. Some good books exist on oils. Shep Paine did one many years ago. Its all about Highlights midtones shadows properly blended, no tide marks, thin layers of oils is the most easy and realistic way I still reckon.

 

HTH.

 

Merlin