What guage and color EZ Line for 1/48?

[Spitfires Forever]

Hello All

I have decided to kick up my modeling sklls a notch by adding antennae wire to my kits. After detailing out the cockpit and wheel wells (I don't generally spend the price of a new kit on resin details unless really needed) I find that not having the antennae wire shows a lack of a finishing touch that can really add to a model's appearance. So, my question is: what color and guage of EZ Line should I use for my 1/48 aircraft? Also, any tutorials on application of the EZ Line? Maybe if I can get good at it I can finally build my SH Albacore....well maybe in the next life at the rate I build!  Anyway, all information would be apprciated greatly.

Cheers.

 

[Lord Riot]

Mine just says ‘Black, Fine’ (not ‘heavy’) and looks like this on a 1/48 model:

 

 

To fix it in place I use superglue (CA Zap a Gap) - just hold it in place for a few seconds with tweezers or similar then it should be firmly attached enough to stretch to the other end and glue the same. 

[Rolls-Royce]

Nice looking Canberra!

[darthspud]

Very nice Canberra

[JackG]

Actual wires are probably a grey colour, but for scale model I prefer black.    I believe these are the diameters for EZ line:

Fine  –  .010″ = 0.25mm
Heavy – .020″ = 0.5mm

 

So definitely fine,  but even at 1/48 scale, that is quite large diameter wire at 0.48 inches or 12mm.

 

I'm sure others will suggest an alternate favourite brand, but another I'm familiar with is Uschi:

Standard:  .005'' = 0.13mm
Fine:          .003'' = 0.08mm
Superfine:  .001'' = 0.03mm

 

regards,

Jack

[Tbolt]

I use the Uschi fine, but super fine would be closer to scale.

[Ray_W]

 

 

On these last two 1/48 builds, I used Infini Elastic Black Lycra Rigging. On the E-3 the 0.082 mm (full size equivalent 3.9 mm) and the G-6 the 0.048 mm (full size equivalent 2.3 mm). 

 

 

I used the heavier one on the E-3 because looking at images from the period it just looks to be, to my eye. I do not get too hung up on the actual size because these products are typically of a flat section (hard to detect in these micro sizes) and being a very stretchable material it is difficult to know the actual finish size on the model anyway. They are very fine and in the supplied black they remain noticeable without overpowering the look of the model. I now leave them in the supplied blackish colour. Brush painting is a challenge as they are so flexible. Marking pen and even with a supporting underside tissue sort of works. You can try pre-painting. I am happy as is.

 

I expect all these products are similar - Uschi, EZ line, Infini and the versions now offered by the Spanish companies.

 

 

 

It is a great experience using them. Glues extremely well and quickly with CA. No accelerator necessary. I typically pre-drill small holes (0.2 or 0.3 mm diameter) for securing the end of the rigging or aerial wire . A butt join will work. I just prefer the extra strength and location. Put the thread in the hole and small dab of CA and let capillary action do the rest

 

I make the aerial wire tensioner spring bodies and rigging ferrules from a stretched plastic Q-Tip handle (single use plastic - get them while you can). You can use eyelets if you wish and glue them in place and loop the thread through the eyelet and back through the ferrule. In the image following, I predrilled the top of the aerial mast and CA glued in place a fine piece of copper wire. Fed the Lycra thread through the stretched Q-Tip ferrule, looped around the mast wire and back through the ferrule. Tensioned it up. A small dab of CA on the ferrule and all was done. Insulators are dabs of a CA/talc mix.

 

 

Threading the stuff can be challenging due to its flexibility. I found if I CA glued a very fine piece of copper wire to the thread I could easily thread it. Having this solid end to work with is a bonus when handling. 

 

 

 

When you tension it up, it loads up nicely without putting too much force on the attachment points.

 

There is a whole discussion on actual aerial wire and rigging diameters (often of a more aerodynamic flat section). The Lycra material is meeting my needs. Ultra fine fishing line and stretched sprue aerial wires have now gone the way of polystyrene tube glue - rare and special circumstances. This stuff is too easy to use.

 

Ray

[Tail-Dragon]

I use Uschi's fine thread (.02 mm) (one bobbin is 145 feet of thread!) , which is great, not visibly flat or jagged as is EZ Line, but is murder to thread into holes. I found the easiest way to install it is take a piece of .005 brass wire, and bend it almost double, tie your thread onto the hook, secure the knot with a dab of thin super glue, and trim excess. Squeeze the two wire ends together to make a single post (.010" thick) and trim, It can be installed flush in a #80 (.013") drilled hole with superglue and will never come out, 

Edited August 6, 2021 by Tail-Dragon

[Spitfires Forever]

13 hours ago, Ray_W said:

 

 

On these last two 1/48 builds, I used Infini Elastic Black Lycra Rigging. On the E-3 the 0.082 mm (full size equivalent 3.9 mm) and the G-6 the 0.048 mm (full size equivalent 2.3 mm). 

 

 

I used the heavier one on the E-3 because looking at images from the period it just looks to be, to my eye. I do not get too hung up on the actual size because these products are typically of a flat section (hard to detect in these micro sizes) and being a very stretchable material it is difficult to know the actual finish size on the model anyway. They are very fine and in the supplied black they remain noticeable without overpowering the look of the model. I now leave them in the supplied blackish colour. Brush painting is a challenge as they are so flexible. Marking pen and even with a supporting underside tissue sort of works. You can try pre-painting. I am happy as is.

 

I expect all these products are similar - Uschi, EZ line, Infini and the versions now offered by the Spanish companies.

 

 

 

It is a great experience using them. Glues extremely well and quickly with CA. No accelerator necessary. I typically pre-drill small holes (0.2 or 0.3 mm diameter) for securing the end of the rigging or aerial wire . A butt join will work. I just prefer the extra strength and location. Put the thread in the hole and small dab of CA and let capillary action do the rest

 

I make the aerial wire tensioner spring bodies and rigging ferrules from a stretched plastic Q-Tip handle (single use plastic - get them while you can). You can use eyelets if you wish and glue them in place and loop the thread through the eyelet and back through the ferrule. In the image following, I predrilled the top of the aerial mast and CA glued in place a fine piece of copper wire. Fed the Lycra thread through the stretched Q-Tip ferrule, looped around the mast wire and back through the ferrule. Tensioned it up. A small dab of CA on the ferrule and all was done. Insulators are dabs of a CA/talc mix.

 

 

Threading the stuff can be challenging due to its flexibility. I found if I CA glued a very fine piece of copper wire to the thread I could easily thread it. Having this solid end to work with is a bonus when handling. 

 

 

 

When you tension it up, it loads up nicely without putting too much force on the attachment points.

 

There is a whole discussion on actual aerial wire and rigging diameters (often of a more aerodynamic flat section). The Lycra material is meeting my needs. Ultra fine fishing line and stretched sprue aerial wires have now gone the way of polystyrene tube glue - rare and special circumstances. This stuff is too easy to use.

 

Ray

Thanks for the tutorial, I don't think I will do as good a job on mine but I will start with my P-51B and see how that goes. Gotta start somewhere right?

Cheers

[Bozothenutter]

On 8/6/2021 at 6:44 AM, Ray_W said:

 

 

On these last two 1/48 builds, I used Infini Elastic Black Lycra Rigging. On the E-3 the 0.082 mm (full size equivalent 3.9 mm) and the G-6 the 0.048 mm (full size equivalent 2.3 mm). 

 

 

I used the heavier one on the E-3 because looking at images from the period it just looks to be, to my eye. I do not get too hung up on the actual size because these products are typically of a flat section (hard to detect in these micro sizes) and being a very stretchable material it is difficult to know the actual finish size on the model anyway. They are very fine and in the supplied black they remain noticeable without overpowering the look of the model. I now leave them in the supplied blackish colour. Brush painting is a challenge as they are so flexible. Marking pen and even with a supporting underside tissue sort of works. You can try pre-painting. I am happy as is.

 

I expect all these products are similar - Uschi, EZ line, Infini and the versions now offered by the Spanish companies.

 

 

 

It is a great experience using them. Glues extremely well and quickly with CA. No accelerator necessary. I typically pre-drill small holes (0.2 or 0.3 mm diameter) for securing the end of the rigging or aerial wire . A butt join will work. I just prefer the extra strength and location. Put the thread in the hole and small dab of CA and let capillary action do the rest

 

I make the aerial wire tensioner spring bodies and rigging ferrules from a stretched plastic Q-Tip handle (single use plastic - get them while you can). You can use eyelets if you wish and glue them in place and loop the thread through the eyelet and back through the ferrule. In the image following, I predrilled the top of the aerial mast and CA glued in place a fine piece of copper wire. Fed the Lycra thread through the stretched Q-Tip ferrule, looped around the mast wire and back through the ferrule. Tensioned it up. A small dab of CA on the ferrule and all was done. Insulators are dabs of a CA/talc mix.

 

 

Threading the stuff can be challenging due to its flexibility. I found if I CA glued a very fine piece of copper wire to the thread I could easily thread it. Having this solid end to work with is a bonus when handling. 

 

 

 

When you tension it up, it loads up nicely without putting too much force on the attachment points.

 

There is a whole discussion on actual aerial wire and rigging diameters (often of a more aerodynamic flat section). The Lycra material is meeting my needs. Ultra fine fishing line and stretched sprue aerial wires have now gone the way of polystyrene tube glue - rare and special circumstances. This stuff is too easy to use.

 

Ray

Thank you for the tutorial and clear explanation!

Saved for future reference!

[Daedalus72]

I have just built a Roden Sea Gladiator and Airfix Tiger Moth, my first two biplanes. On the Gladiator I used knitting in elastic and on the Tiger, Uschi

elastic thread.

I found that in both cases, it was easier to apply the glue to the thread, rather than put it in the hole, as the glue was more controllable and made less mess on the surface of the model.

Regarding aerials, I have until recently used fishing line eg on Wessex HF aerials, but will be using elastic thread in future as it is far easier to stick.

The main drawback I had was the end of the thread sometimes curled up when the glue was applied.