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SS Hydrograaf, 1:100, 3D, hydrographic ship of Royal Dutch Navy


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I have adjusted the bulwark reinforcement legs to fit the plan.

Drawing of the pipes on the deck, probably of the steam for the windlass, and the skylight in front of the castle.

Various modifications. And I continued the drawing of the hull plates.

 

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The hull is almost finished.  

 

At this level of design, the devil is in the details... especially the design of the sheets which must perfectly fit the skin of the hull. This is a necessary step.

 

The design of the metal sheets adds to the precision of the model compared to a smooth hull, as do many other small details that contribute to the overall effect and give a real impression of realism on the retina. 

 

This is a far cry from the beginning of the project and the initial sketch which is rather insipid. The 3D drawing makes it possible to apprehend this phenomenon of scale, the more precise the details, the more "alive" the model will be. 

 

But the second step, printing, must restore all this visual information, in a real ship...

 

Here again nothing is simple, the path between the drawing and the final printing is full of pitfalls, the printing and painting procedure must be prepared well in advance when choosing the 3D drawing, it is necessary to anticipate. 

 

Questions arise, which object to print apart from painting and gluing it easily, the adjustments are also to be closely monitored, this is not the strong point of resin printing. etc.. 

Then there is the method of assembly of the model, because the parts are nevertheless numerous at the end.

 

This is where the experience gained from drawing and printing plays a major role. 

 

Don't think that drawing and printing a complex object such as a ship can be done by snapping your fingers, as some might think. Not so simple. 

 

That's the beauty of it, otherwise there would be no interest in the end for the model maker.   


The sketches of the design at the beginning of the project:

 

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The hull is hollowed out to avoid the use of resin, and especially to avoid printing problems, suction of the part and deterioration of the surface of the edges. 

 

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I have provided a very flat layout for easy positioning of the superstructures. Feedback from the SS Nomadic.

 

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You can see the holes for positioning the windsocks and some accessories not present on this drawing for the moment, mast, ventilation sleeves, chimneys of the coal stoves for heating, compasses .

 

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It took me a few more hours to perfect the 3D print file of the half-hulls.

 

I cut the ship in half and placed reinforcement pillars inside, and made a hole to glue a small threaded rod to hold it on its support once finished.

 

The ship is 40 cm long, so I made two 20 cm elements to fit in the printer.

 

I also made a vent in the cut, the half circle that you can see to avoid a suction effect that occurs between the part, the printing plate and the film in the tray. This suction can take off the part during printing, a catastrophe, and if it does not take off, it can make lines on the outside of the hull, damaging the surface of the hull and even deforming it, it's very ugly. 

 

It took me a while to find this vent trick. The hole will be filled with putty later on during assembly.

 

This is a test print, getting it right the first time is rare, but it happens.  😇

 

It takes 20 cl of resin (a beer with a "false neck..") to print these two pieces with the supports in 10h30, for a total cost of 7 euros.

 

A litre of standard grey Elegoo resin is around 34 - 35 euros.

 

Verdict tomorrow morning when I wake up!  😜

 

https://www.amazon.fr/dp/B08PD13JP5/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_1ZMA45RPAJQZFNCYQ4E1?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

 

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The printing is very nice, without any hitches, for this first one of this very nice ship. One of my best. 


It's that you get better with experience, probably. 

 

The quality and stability of this printer is also a big part of it.

 

I've had time to glue the half-shells, it's always tricky to sand the section to remove the 3 layers of adhesive and stay flat.

 

I'll still have to work on the cutting area but it's not bad.

 

The day started well this morning when I woke up. 

 

It's always magical to materialize a virtual thing that you've worked hard on for dozens of hours on a screen. It's a shock to touch it in real life! It's like a gift we give ourselves every time, like a child. 

 

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Thanks Kev! 

 

Some pictures from the beginning of the 20th century where the ship is more or less in its original configuration.

 

Thanks to my friend Roland for finding these photos in very good definition.

 

On this HD photo, I have the original shape of the anchor which has nothing to do with the current one.

 

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3D printing of the deck equipment.

 

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I have started a bit of painting. I made a yellow that roughly matches from an old can of Heller 9027 paint, which I lightened a bit with Revell 05 off-white. 

 

Otherwise Revell SM 364 green. And three shades for the deck. Quite a lot of masking as everything is done in the air.

 

The matte antifouling  Humbrol Matte 60 has been varnished with matte to stabilise it.

 

Nothing is glued. I'm painting the black hull tomorrow probably.

 

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I make a short pose on the Hydrograaf, I work on a tug boat the USS Nokomis for my friend Alain Nova73 who is going to make a part of one of his remarkable diorama. I'm only doing the hull, He will draw the rest.

 

One of his jewels:

http://www.shipmodels.info/mws_forum/viewtopic.php?f=59&t=154402

 

Not easy because I don't really have the plans of the hull, only partially.

 

So it will be far from perfect, but for waterline 1:350 it will be fine.

 

I'm a bit like a musician without a score.

 

https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B32-8ZWvIt6USm9hV05adGNzNXM/view?resourcekey=0-2oWytSsFRNuIzFGqjQ2rbA

 

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Some progress on the paintwork.

 

At the beginning of his career the border was painted white, as for the name sometimes white, sometimes yellow.

 

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One picture of this ship alongside during WW2, may be in England:

 

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I painted the yellow, there was a lot of masking to do. The rail will be painted black with a brush.

 

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Tks Steve, Guy.

 

Yes Guy, it's a real pleasure to control the model from A to Z, and especially to make it in the version you want. The documentation does the rest.
I'll have a hard time going back to commercial models, even if I modify them with 3D to get the most accurate model possible at a given moment.

However, I still have a stock waiting for me.

 

Quite a bit of paint work today and the original anchor design is quite different to the one now.

 

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Today and yesterday:

 

Drawings of the main deck forward vents and the 2 chimneys of the 2 coal stoves.

 

A lot of small painting details, steering wheel, spare steering gear (not finished), fitting and gluing of some elements, anchors, mooring bollards, propellers, rudder, forward companionway under forecastle. Forward fairleads in place.

 

Tested 4 different anchor sizes, 110%, 100%, 90%, 80%.

 

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Beginning of the windlass design which is a bit specific with an anchor chain that runs under the wildcat instead of over it like most windlasses.  The chain is guided by an extension from the downpipe to the chain well.

 

There are also 2 small mooring bollards which are probably mounted on a movable arm, but I don't have enough details, this would be used to redirect a line from the forward fairlead into the windlass headstock. It's ingenious.

 

As for the rest, the electric motor with an electro-brake has been added to get rid of the steam engine, which is still present but disconnected. 

 

The two arms were probably used to control the steam engine and the control valves, to turn or to unscrew.


This is also ingenious, as only one man can pull up the anchor and see what is happening at the hawse, see when the anchor is weighed, in which direction the chain goes, port or starboard, and so tell the bridge whether to put the helm to portside or starboard side, opposite engine very slowly forward, in order to help the windlass and avoid scraping the underside of the hull or the bow with the chain.


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I started to glue the elements, like the railing.

 

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The fact that it is possible at these scales is very recent indeed.

 

It was made possible by the advent of low cost but good quality 3D printers. 

 

A new step will be taken with Anycubic's new small low-coast printer using the DLP technique which will be released very soon. I've pre-ordered it, I hope to have it by the end of the year (Christmas).

 

https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/anycubic-official/photon-ultra

 

My budget allows me to do so because I don't buy any more models on the market for the moment, my stock is full anyway.

 

It is a good complement to the Anycubic MonoX, it will allow me to print small parts with even more precision:

 

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Don't be so hard on yourself. 😂

 

When you create things with your own hands or/and from your mind, artistic or not, it makes you feel much better about yourself. It is very rewarding. 

 

Passivity, even when playing, in front of a screen is not the healthiest thing, it doesn't feed the soul, in my opinion, of course.

 

It has to be accompanied by personal creativity. But I have no lessons to give you.

 

What I like most is to draw and to see my drawings come to life in a physical form, it's a real challenge and a real pleasure every time, to hold them in my hands.

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