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1/48 Bulgarian PZL P.24B - Mirage Hobby ***FINISHED***


Ray_W

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More very nice work Ray, very nice indeed,

I like your choice of red, really nice colour.

I think your idea for the canopy is very good and should make for even more of an interesting model, though I believe you have missed a trick by buying packets of blueberries, that was the moment to "have to" but some lovely sticky cakes because of the plastic boxes they came in.😁

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Ray,

Are you saying the kit doesn't have a full canopy?  Hopefully my Greek version does. 

I won't be doing mine in this GB. The kit hasn't arrived.  It is two weeks over due. I'm 

Hoping it is just the lockdown situation we are in here.

I got my Little trainer done which was a difficult kit. I must update the images because I have a better 

paint finish on the cowelling now.

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8 hours ago, Greg Law said:

Are you saying the kit doesn't have a full canopy?  Hopefully my Greek version does. 

 

Hi Greg,

 

You do get the full canopy looking at the instructions for the Mirage Greek version. It is a shame the same wasn't offered for the Bulgarian version as I would of soon removed that front glazing panel like so:

 

PZL P24B Construction 58

 

 

Ray

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The exhaust manifold just about consumed the weekend. I spent a lot of time trying to make the supplied white metal parts work and in the end I gave up. I should of followed my proposal as I mentioned in an earlier post and saved some time. I cut all the exhaust pipes off and removed any remaining stubs and repositioned the pipes to coincide with the cylinder head exhaust ports and with the exhaust outlets in the correct position at the lower strut. Lots of trial and error to ensure it fits. A day gone but much better result.

 

PZL P24B Construction 59

 

And, painted up even better. You will see that I squeezed the round outlets to the more correct oval shape.

 

PZL P24B Construction 60

 

What a pleasure to have it all glued in place. Yes you're right, all the interior detail will disappear, yet it is kinda cute.

 

PZL P24B Construction 63

 

Big news was finishing the "power egg", that is, without the PE latches. I will fit those towards the end of the build. I am sure to knock them off and then you have the problem of that little bit of residual glue that needs to be cleaned up on that beautiful red surface.  

 

PZL P24B Construction 62

 

PZL P24B Construction 61

 

Now it is time for another mini-project - the canopy. 

 

I decided to change tack, I have so many spare Bf-109 canopies from all my Eduard 109's that one became a donor for the side panels. You can see below that both donor panels are cut out and one is already sized with a curve sanded into it to match the spline.

 

PZL P24B Construction 64

 

Here are both the rear side glazing panels test fitted. Ignore my Mr Surfacer 500 fun and games, just me playing with some minor imperfections.

 

PZL P24B Construction 66

 

This should work nicely.

 

PZL P24B Construction 65

 

An evening's work fitting, polishing, adding some front framing and we will see how it looks.

 

Ray

 

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2 hours ago, Ray_W said:

I will fit those towards the end of the build. I am sure to knock them off and then you have the problem of that little bit of residual glue that needs to be cleaned up on that beautiful red surface.  

 

I've recently started using Kristal Klear (PVA), to stick small details to my shiny car kits. It seems to grip OK, but doesn't damage the gloss finish.

 

Cheers

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54 minutes ago, coneheadff said:

How did you achieve that shiny red nose cowl?

 

Good surface preparation (easy because it was a cowling) and then Mr Color gloss lacquer thinned with Mr Color Levelling Thinner. As @dnl42 has said, I too prefer Gunze lacquers. It takes much of the guess work and variability out of airbrush painting.

 

One thing to watch for with high gloss coats and the recent kits is that the process used for cutting the moulding dies leaves the slightest stipple in the injected plastic. You can see it in the red engine fairing and the spat side walls, both of which were not sanded.  Not a big deal for me with this kit as it does need to be a little less shiny.

 

12 minutes ago, dnl42 said:

The spats and cowling are superb!

 

In fact too shiny! I will have to tone them down a touch.

 

33 minutes ago, CliffB said:

I've recently started using Kristal Klear (PVA), to stick small details to my shiny car kits.

 

Great advice. I was thinking of using slightly diluted PVA on this job. I will also airbrush a coat of Gunze GX-100 over the top to provide some more support.

 

Ray

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18 minutes ago, modelling minion said:

Very good use of spare 109 canopies, nice to see spare parts being put to good use. 

 

I must admit it was difficult to cut one up, but then again, how many 109 canopies do you need in one lifetime? 🤔

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We're now ready to go to some paint.

 

PZL P24B Construction 67

 

I extended the front spigot to ensure I have room for adjustment on the cowling/engine fitment while still maintaining a robust joint The top post I glued into the front plate is to provide some adjustment for tilt. When it's time, I will glue the engine assembly in place with 5 minute epoxy or gel CA to provide a little time for adjustment.

 

PZL P24B Construction 68

 

I replaced the kit MG's with brass and polystyrene.

 

PZL P24B Construction 69

 

Replaced the rear skid cylinder rod and rudder trim tab with brass.

 

PZL P24B Construction 73

 

One pleasing aspect of the build is that the struts fit very nicely in their own right. This means they do not need to be in place for the painting, simplifying the masking and providing great access in doing the fuselage stripe. 

 

PZL P24B Construction 75

 

I had read on someone's build of this kit that the struts needed to be extended. Not in my case. Slightly profiled on the end to fit into the fuselage sockets and narrow the wing fairings fractionally to fit between the wing ribbing. Here is everything just sitting in place.

 

PZL P24B Construction 71

 

Time to mask the canopy and then some undercoat. No doubt a few minor imperfections to fix and then into the main colours and have some fun with those red stripes down the side of the fuselage.

 

Ray

 

 

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55 minutes ago, Toryu said:

That's gonna be a beautiful model! Very precise craftmanship.

 

Thanks for the kind remarks. It is coming together nicely.

 

Finished the black undercoat and then masked and sprayed the Bulgarian tri-colour rudder.  Mirage do provide some decals. I think painting is easier.

 

PZL P24B Construction 76

 

You can see I have applied the red for the fuselage stripe. Quite a bit wider than required. Nothing more frustrating than missing a bit that will go under the mask. 

 

PZL P24B Construction 77

 

Time to cut some masks and give it a good 24 hours before application. No need to rush.

 

Ray

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1 hour ago, modelling minion said:

I have no doubt that the red one of your P-24 will be just as good

Here's hoping. This one is super thin.

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That's coming along nicely.  I agree that painting the tail is the best way to do it. I'm kind of glad my kit hasn't turned up in time. My build would look shabby next to your effort.

Once (IF) it does turn up I will be using your build as an example. I will do it in WIP.

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11 hours ago, CliffB said:

Great work Ray.  Your colours are looking nice and strong over the black primer

 

Thanks Cliff.

 

I experimented with the Polish Khaki for the upper surfaces in readiness to spray the wheel spats.

 

I have the Hataka Orange Line series paint for Polish aircraft. I decided to darken the C011 Light Polish Khaki a fraction with the C010 Dark Polish Khaki as this aircraft is to be portrayed early in its life, Ratio was approximately 5 parts C011 : 1 part C010. This brought out a little more of the tinge of green closer to FS34088 while preserving the Polish Khaki basis. I thinned the Hataka with Mr Color Leveling Thinner. Seems to not present a problem. Laid down nicely and dried quickly.

 

PZL P24B Construction 78

 

Wheel spats are masked. I gave the spats a light coat of gloss clear GX-100 to seal the mask edges then Mr Finishing Surfacer 1500 Black to reduce the red, being careful not to build it up on the mask edge.  Now ready for the Khaki. I will let that dry a little longer before using the Hataka.

 

PZL P24B Construction 79

 

 

PostScript: Nice stage to reach, masks off and the tricky pattern on the wheels spats is done. I'll let it dry properly and then mask the circular lower strut mount and finish it in aluminium and all should be good.

 

PZL P24B Construction 80

 

Ray

 

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11 hours ago, Greg Law said:

Once (IF) it does turn up I will be using your build as an example.

 

Hi Greg,

Nice choice of kit and an interesting subject.  One to enjoy. You could build it straight from the box and be very happy. It does shine with a few small enhancements. 

Ray

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1 hour ago, modelling minion said:

The khaki you have used looks good, I know that it can be controversial as to what colour to use but yours looks good.

 

Yes, quite a difficult subject. One of those things where you read as much as you can access and then put a stake in the ground and say, "this is what I'll do".  I think that Hataka, being a Polish company, is a good starting point.

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