Bertie McBoatface Posted August 6, 2021 Author Share Posted August 6, 2021 Good morning, I'd left these oil paints on the windowsill for about 36 hours instead of the usual twelve. They had given up a lot of oil as you see. This is presumably why they work so well on canvas? In fact they were well on the way to being dried up. I dug into the centres though and found useable paint. Curiously, after their long sunbathing sessions, and being diluted with Daler Rowney Low Odour Thinners, they were drying a little TOO fast for comfort. @Troy Smith. The low odour thinners are made from 'petroleum distillates' are much thinner than white spirit and far more volatile. They dry rather fast I put a drop on a wick and found that it burned with a clean flame. Tony, this stuff is lighter fluid! You win. Meet my mule. A St Charmond that I lost interest in is my current practice object for AFV work. It's been a while since I played with oils so I wanted to make most of my mistakes and trials on this one. It's not quite abandoned and is slowly reaching a state of 'Finished but not prominently displayed'. Application of Burnt Umber to surface. This is too glossy a substrate really. I wished I'd bothered to overspray it satin after the decaling. On a glossy surface the oil moves too fast and far and I have to be delicate. On a matt surface it sticks too well and sometimes won't move enough. Satin if, for me the perfect finish for this. I've begun to draw the 'grease' away from the axle bearing. I use a soft makeup brush bought in bulk on Amazon from China. It's not worth getting good ones, these are adequate and they tend not to last more that a few goes. A little bit more blending and I've gone back to the bearing housing and wiped the muck off the grease nipple, as a good engineer would. You can push the paint around for ages. I tried scratching it with a cocktail stick to demonstrate the possibilities. Next time I do that I'll use a pin. Other side, I used Yellow Ochre first. Followed by the Burnt Umber for a bit of colour variation. I forgot to photograph that when I'd done, sorry. I'll be going back and forth with the oils for a few days yet so you'll see the multi coloured effects later, with luck. I can't stay on one area for too long due to the risk of smudging the wet oils so I moved onto the roof. The commanders hatch . Guys in filthy greasy overalls would have perched their bums on either side of the opening on long drives. Not the rear though, as that stiffener would have been uncomfortable and obviously not the front. Oops! That might be too much. Yes. I over did it a little. But with this stuff, you can take a little off with a damp brush without going right back to the start as you would with enamel washes. Better. Finished. This sequence took about two minutes. There are some expensive brushes in there but most cost me about 20 to 50 pence each. The Chinese flats and fine points are called "One Happy Choice", which is charming and true for me. These are some experiments with oils paints used to make dust effects (see the bolt heads on the roof), and rain streaking. I'm thinking that one box of artist's colours will do everything that those very expensive 'Weathering Products' will do. And do it better? Perhaps I'll do a model from the primer stage, entirely in oil paints. That would be fascinating. And finally, cleaning the palette takes a second or two. Its an old vacformed food tray from the supermarket. Recycled. Reused. 6 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
echen Posted August 6, 2021 Share Posted August 6, 2021 1 hour ago, Bertie Psmith said: And finally, cleaning the palette takes a second or two. Its an old vacformed food tray from the supermarket. Recycled. Reused. I was using the inside of jam-jar lids til I got a pound shop pallette because it had smaller containers. Very effective weathering, just right. Easy to overdo, as I have found to my cost. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bertie McBoatface Posted August 6, 2021 Author Share Posted August 6, 2021 3 minutes ago, echen said: Very effective weathering, just right. Easy to overdo Thank you. And yes, I get carried away too. That's the great benefit of using oils, you have several hours to change your mind and reduce the effect. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Model Mate Posted August 6, 2021 Share Posted August 6, 2021 yes; oils and pastels are all you need I reckon. I've never really been tempted by weathering paints/washes/pigments. For mud for instance, I grind up some ochre, black and brick-red pastels (just rub them on some sandpaper) and mix to get a mud brown. Dab it all over and fix with light dots of white spirit. For heavier mud, I'll mix in a little grey tile grout and sometimes a dash of PVA too. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bertie McBoatface Posted August 6, 2021 Author Share Posted August 6, 2021 18 minutes ago, Model Mate said: yes; oils and pastels are all you need I reckon. I've never really been tempted by weathering paints/washes/pigments. For mud for instance, I grind up some ochre, black and brick-red pastels (just rub them on some sandpaper) and mix to get a mud brown. Dab it all over and fix with light dots of white spirit. For heavier mud, I'll mix in a little grey tile grout and sometimes a dash of PVA too. I enjoy the creativity involved with making my own recipes for stuff. I do, however collect paint like a jackdaw when I know I could learn to mix my own. They look so nice in my drawers. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Troy Smith Posted August 6, 2021 Share Posted August 6, 2021 6 hours ago, Bertie Psmith said: The low odour thinners are made from 'petroleum distillates' are much thinner than white spirit and far more volatile. They dry rather fast I put a drop on a wick and found that it burned with a clean flame. Tony, this stuff is lighter fluid! You win. whose Tony? .... I suspect that the low odour thinners is not quite lighter fuel, but a heavier molecule... in short ..at standard temp/pressure, Methane, CH4, 1 carbon, gas. Butane - C4H10, 4 carbon, Gas, but liquid when compressed in your lighter., Hexane C6H14, 6 carbon, and what lighter fuel is, note Boiling point: 69 °C. Petrol is a mix, approx C8, IE Octane* , White Spirit is in the parrafin range, approx C15/15 carbon, diesel in C-25 to C30, tar is C45to C50, ..... but all these are saturated hydrocarbons, the bigger they get, the less volatile unsurprisingly. The point of this little digression, I suspect that low odour thinners are a slightly heavier molecule than lighter fuel, but all the above are intermixable, so you could tweak your wash evaporation rate by adding a little White Spirit to low odour thinners for example... which perhaps would be of some practical use? Standard DIY White Spirit is fairly greasy gunk really, if you think of it as Parrafin, that makes sense, and is a mix of saturated Hydrocarbons around C15, and you can see why it is not the best thing to thin enamel with. * though plain Octane, as in straight chain, scores -20 on the Octane scale, 100 Octane is 2,2,4 Tri Methyl Pentane, (an Octane isomer) plain Octane causes knocking as it combusts in unevenly, 2,2,4- TMP has methyl side groups that make it combust more evenly. This is from memory, and I'm sure wiki can provide far more on this if you to explore further... Appreciate the detail and images of how the various wash mixes work in practice as well. cheers T 1 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bertie McBoatface Posted August 6, 2021 Author Share Posted August 6, 2021 5 minutes ago, Troy Smith said: whose Tony? .... Sorry Troy. I got 3/4 of the letters right. Thanks for the chemistry reminder. I vaguely remember that stuff from a classroom long ago and far away. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bertie McBoatface Posted August 6, 2021 Author Share Posted August 6, 2021 8 minutes ago, Troy Smith said: which perhaps would be of some practical use? Definitely worth knowing. Standard DIY White Spirit is fairly greasy gunk really, if you think of it as Paraffin, that makes sense, and is a mix of saturated Hydrocarbons around C15, and you can see why it is not the best thing to thin enamel with. Of course. I never thought of that. I once knew someone who thinned enamels with petrol, for airbrushing, which struck me as lunacy, but he did get a good finish. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bertie McBoatface Posted August 7, 2021 Author Share Posted August 7, 2021 Today I've been playing. Just messing about with paint in lots of different ways, wet, dry, thick, thin, etc, etc. It's said that the best way to learn something is to work it out for yourself, so that's what I've been doing. I really can't describe what I've been doing in any particular photo except to say that they are in sequential order. I think the tank is getting more interesting the more that I do this and while I certainly can't replicate the processes yet, perhaps one day I will gain that skill. 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 I've numbered the pictures in case you need to refer to them in a reply. That's all folks. 5 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
echen Posted August 7, 2021 Share Posted August 7, 2021 1-9. Terrific work. Nice subtle weathering. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bertie McBoatface Posted August 7, 2021 Author Share Posted August 7, 2021 36 minutes ago, echen said: 1-9. Terrific work. Nice subtle weathering. Thank you. I'm glad you like it. I think tomorrow I'll seal this lot in with a satin coat and then continue with ...? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
diablo rsv Posted August 8, 2021 Share Posted August 8, 2021 Nice work Bertie, I made this one a while back and it was one of my most enjoyable builds, It looks as though you are enjoying yours as much as I did mine. Wayne Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bertie McBoatface Posted August 9, 2021 Author Share Posted August 9, 2021 Good afternoon, Well I've made some progress, learned some stuff, had some fun (and a li'l anxiety). So that's a good day! First thing I wanted to do was to change the texture of the surface to which I was applying oils. So I sprayed several coats of Tamiya Flat Clear XF-86. Unfortunately, when it dried it was shill a bit shiny, let's say I ended up with satin. TThis, I think, is because the pot of matt varnish has been over diluted with thinner and there's not much of the cloudiness left. Time to bring in the reserve pot and relabel tis one 'Satin' or use it for experiments... See below. But first, while the 'satin' coat is drying, let's have a play with those grousers; wooden blocks that were bolted to the tracks for unditching purposes. Apparently they weren't much help and fitting them under fire (!) was not a pleasant task. But they did it, the crazy, heroic Tommies. Hard, hard men. I wanted to make the grousers look more woody. I remembered watching a painter 'wood graining' some painted walls a long time ago and tried that method. Stupidly, I dis it back to front and varnished the wood before graining it, as you see in the sequence above. At least they all look a little different from each other now! I'll return to them later and see what I can do. The effect is more suited to a wooden propeller of an instrument panel in a Bentley but we'll see what they look like tomorrow. How about that exhaust! That was the result of Vallejo Rust Texture stippled on. Good base colour, very dark orange/brown and a gritty texture that reminded me of rusty water. (Thinks: Where can I buy Iron Filings). And then four colours of acrylic rust colours rom Lifecolour, wet blended sequentially from the darkest to the lightest. Then a dry brush of Vallejo steel to pick out the mounting brackets and make it look like metal. Which it does. See also the track plates. NOW, lets have a look at these oils. Do I really need to wick out the oil for hours? Well, lets try a quicker way. The kitchen roll took some oil away very quickly, especially when I dribbled the Odourless Thinner over them. Good enough. It was oilier than last time and on the previous gloss surface I thing would have been difficult to control. On the satin surface it was ok. On a matt surface it might be perfect. Maybe next time. I did sometimes go OTT! But as always with oils, it comes off easily with a damp brush. Dampened with thinners obviously, not water! Then I tried again and got a big brown grease stain under my ball mountings. Some other pics of today's oily experiments. I stole the Idea for the big oil leak from the Port engine. I once left the oil filler cap of a diesel escort and drove 20 miles. It was just like this. And now we move onto the muddy parts. Those mud chutes really have to get some treatment, preferably without wrecking what I've managed to achieve so far. I'm a stranger to this so I was a bit nervous and did experiments on my 'mule' before soiling my Whippet. I began with prepared solutions from Vallejo; thick mud and also their splash mud. It was really hard to get the amount of mud and its placement right. I poked it on with small brushes, wiped it on with bigger flat brushes, stippled it and eventually flicked it on with a toothbrush. Not mine of course, I used the one I keep for guests. The combination of methods seemed to work out ok. But while wet it looked awful so I took my real dog out for a walk while it dried. When we got home it was dry and looks quite good. I'm comparing it with earth movers I've studied on building sites and to my mind it's close. Examining the palette, I see that the stuff contains an acrylic paste, some fine grit particles and pigment. So there's no need to buy more of this expensive preparation. Acrylic paste, I can buy by the kilo from any art shop, even the Works has it. Appropriate texture particles lie by the side of every farm track around here, conveniently sorted by the rain into different grain sizes, and pigment is in every pot of paint or ink. So I can easily and enjoyably whip up a different recipe for every situation, and save money too. Yes. Today has been a good one. Even if the most interesting work was on the wrong model! I must see if I can duplicate this on the other side of the St Charmond. If so I'll know I can do it all over my Whippet. p.s. I'm trialling the use of small pics in groups because sometimes I get a bit fed up with scrolling down through a huge page full of big pictures. What do you, the readers think? 6 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bertie McBoatface Posted August 10, 2021 Author Share Posted August 10, 2021 Good afternoon. Today has been a day of small and great progress. First came some housekeeping; just a change in the location of my overhead lighting. Now it's actually over my head and the difference is startling. Its a long tube light so I don't even cast a shadow if I'm leaning over the work. Ideal. It's still a little blue on the photographs unfortunately but I hope to find the way to adjust for that on the camera. One day... Then I tried to replicate yesterday's mud work on the St Charmond. This took only minutes and was successful enough for me to muddy up the Whippet with confidence. You can see why the design wasn't much good at crossing trenched. There's so much suspension between the too-short tracks that I think it would have gotten stuck on a bowling green. And then, just as I was about to hit the Whippet with a bucketful of mud, I had an IDEA. This photo shows an example of infantry and armour training together in France The Tommies have been invited to the 'TANKODROME' (which is a real word!), or 'driving ground' to familiarise themselves with their new Big Friends. I was working on a representation of the scene ad a diorama base for my previously completed Mk IV, but would there be space for the Whippet too? Yes there is! It's a bit of a squeeze but like all dioramas, a little compressed reality just adds to the drama. This means that the mud I apply to the Whippet must match the groundwork and that on the Mk IV. Since I've only got that one little tub, we will now see if making my own is as easy as I claimed yesterday. That's a grim looking picture! I'd started on the figures last year before shelving the idea at the back of a cupboard, so that's a help. I wont be including as many as on the photograph above but I'll try to suggest that 'party atmosphere' by staging the guys in little groups of mates, chatting about the tanks and whatever else, while they wait for their busses home. Like a school trip after the serious work has been done. So, it appears that this careless blitzbuild which was supposed to occupy me until the Phantom STGB, has now expanded to an indefinite length. Progress, and updates, will obviously slow down When the GB gets going but I'll try to maintain momentum on both projects at once with perhaps an update on each per week. We'll just have to see how it goes. Tomorrow, I'll get down to The Works or Rymans and get some gel medium to make some of Flander's fields. If that fails, I have a back up plan so I'm hoping to have the tanks well secured to the base by nightfall. Update Thursday? 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
echen Posted August 10, 2021 Share Posted August 10, 2021 21 minutes ago, Bertie Psmith said: we will now see if making my own is as easy as I claimed yesterday I paint on dark earth then sprinkle powdered earth, ground up brick or concrete or talcum powder. Once its dry I remove any excess before adding any other muddy type colours to vary the appearance. It can get too raised when I get carried away with it but it is quite adjustable. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bertie McBoatface Posted August 10, 2021 Author Share Posted August 10, 2021 54 minutes ago, echen said: I paint on dark earth then sprinkle powdered earth, ground up brick or concrete or talcum powder. Once its dry I remove any excess before adding any other muddy type colours to vary the appearance. It can get too raised when I get carried away with it but it is quite adjustable. There are infinite variations in the earth recipes. I've been using PVA + plaster + earth + paint. Its a bit gloopy though and the particles get submerged in the medium. That's why I liked the idea of using acrylic gel medium, which shrinks down and leaves the particles sticking up more. However, there's none to be had in my little town this evening so I'll see what I can come up with, using your suggestion of sprinkles. "Do what you can, with what you have, where you are." FDR 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Troy Smith Posted August 10, 2021 Share Posted August 10, 2021 3 hours ago, Bertie Psmith said: However, there's none to be had in my little town this evening so I'll see what I can come up with, using your suggestion of sprinkles. "Do what you can, with what you have, where you are." FDR perhaps acrylic varnish? Which is really thinned down acrylic medium AFAIK. I recently found my W&N 'Matt' was not dead matt, a small amount of talc added achieved a dead matt. You have a test mule, and the other ingredients. My next weathering experiment will be wet mud, so interested to see DIY recipe's.... as alluded to here. On 09/08/2021 at 18:00, Bertie Psmith said: Examining the palette, I see that the stuff contains an acrylic paste, some fine grit particles and pigment. So there's no need to buy more of this expensive preparation. Acrylic paste, I can buy by the kilo from any art shop, even the Works has it. Appropriate texture particles lie by the side of every farm track around here, conveniently sorted by the rain into different grain sizes, and pigment is in every pot of paint or ink. So I can easily and enjoyably whip up a different recipe for every situation, and save money too. Thanks for taking the time do document all this is such detail, very informative. cheers T 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bertie McBoatface Posted August 10, 2021 Author Share Posted August 10, 2021 12 minutes ago, Troy Smith said: Thanks for taking the time do document all this is such detail, very informative. Don't mention it Troy, I'm enjoying the writing as much as the moddelling. However, without the interest shown by you and others who post on the topic, I'd never have got this far, so it goes both ways. I've done some interesting things tonight but I can't access my camera because of: A.) the fall-out and B.) the current extreme instability of a huge blob of jelly, rocks, and splinters. I'll tell you all, all tomorrow. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bertie McBoatface Posted August 11, 2021 Author Share Posted August 11, 2021 14 hours ago, Troy Smith said: perhaps acrylic varnish? Which is really thinned down acrylic medium AFAIK. I recently found my W&N 'Matt' was not dead matt, a small amount of talc added achieved a dead matt. You have a test mule, and the other ingredients. My next weathering experiment will be wet mud, so interested to see DIY recipe's.... as alluded to here. I won't try your talc suggestion as I have suffered in the past from matt varnich 'blooming' when insufficiently stirred. I don't want to risk that happening again if I overdo the talc. I have another bottle of flat clear and also the Humbrol equivalent. Acrylic varnish? Interesting, the kind that's designed for kitchen floors. I can definitely foresee some uses for that stuff. But not in this case. My own recipe gloop. I used PVA glue and in a big yoghurt pot mixed it with the rest of my ingredients, by eye, by guesswork. First came Polyfilla to thicken it up a lot. Then a big squirt of cheap black acrylic paint, so that if anything flakes off when this is all over, it won't leave a shining white spot in the mud. Then I thought I'd put in some particles, sand, grit and stones. That wasn't a good idea as it made the mix harder to work with, and most of it fell to the bottom of the pot anyway. Any that did get onto my base just stayed out of sight so I gained nothing by this. I won't do that again. I used a thinner mix for the road and the sides of the base. Sprinkles onto the wet surface is much the better way. It puts the texture where you want it. I protected the tanks with clingfilm, and pressed them into position leaving a dent. This will top them seeming to be on tiptoes on the top of the rocks. I added a few larger lumps of slate and a handful of sawdust from a wood chipper for extra variety. Then I went over the surface with a toothpick, pressing each rock into the gloop. This was the difficult part, knowing when to leave it alone! I had no idea about the drying time but as the base was made of foamed polystyrene, and was waterproof, I thought it might ake a long time. And it did! Overnight wasn't quite long enough so it's now in the pantry out of my way while it fully hardens. Note the enhanced perspective which I built in when I was following the reference photo more closely. I was going to have the photographer taking the picture, as one of the figures. Irrelevant now, I'll claim it as a narrowing farm track used as a baby trench for training purposes. I hated leaving this mess on my desk overnight. That was the fallout I mentioned yesterday. It now seems to have migrated all over the flat! One of the Mk IV's footprints This is what it looked like this morning. Despite the occasional wet patch, I shook, tapped and dusted off the surplus. I thought of useing acrylic varnish as a final sealer to hold the particles down, but then realised that I'd be painting it all anyway. I'll simply shoot some primer over it when I'm happy that it's dry. So with nothing much else to do, I started painting my Goblin. As you do... 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bertie McBoatface Posted August 12, 2021 Author Share Posted August 12, 2021 Major progress today. The two tanks are now glued down to their completed base and left in the cupboard to dry fully before I can safely mess about with my toy soldiers. This was where I was at close of play yesterday. The ground was made but drying. I primed the base with two thick coars of Stynylrez primer in black so that the underneath of overhanging stones would be shadowed. Then a coat of white primer brightened up the top surfaces. It looked like the moon, in black and white but I don't seem to have taken many pictures today. I thought I had but I can't find many now. (These senior moments are beginning to bother me.) There's a strange wet patch in the road? Where's my dog? The next thing was to paint all the stones with a brush in colours that more or less matched the soil. It only took a few minutes with very wet Vallejo paint which quickly ran into the primer coata. I sprayed and then wet blended some random browns and greens on top. This gave me quite an organic looking surface but this blue artificial light has hardly picked that up, sorry. I became very enthusiastic with the wet applied paints and risked it all for an oil stain. I think it's interesting. Maybe I'll have a couple of figures looking worried about the oil. (Of course the oil covers up that strange discoloured patch from before.) The tanks, like the one in the inspiration photo will be dusty rather than muddy. It's a nice dry day in the summer of 1918 and the ground is chalky. The initial dusting was a single sweep with an airbrush, while I was spraying this colour on the base, mostly the road. Time for a little vegetation. The green wash I'd applied around the sand particles looks like very short grass on sheep-grazed upland fields. This was a happy accident and I wanted some longer tufts of scrub. The easiest way was to use these prepared, self-adhesive grass tufts. They were very handy for camouflaging the bits of base that weren't quite right. This is starting to come together nicely. Those tufts are so simple but really effective. A little tiny bit of 'battle damage' To turn Thick Mud into thin dust I diluted with thinners and flow improver. Worked a treat. Just enough to make the tank look like it belongs on that ground. And that's where we are tonight. I have nine days until the Phantom STGB begins, and I need maybe 15 figures to animate the scene. I'm running out of gas, it's still 106 miles to Chicago, it's past my bedtime, and I'm wearing a truss... 5 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bertie McBoatface Posted August 13, 2021 Author Share Posted August 13, 2021 Things are desperate here. When I made the Mk IV I bought a few different boxes of WWI soldiers to populate it as in the old picture. They were in various warlike poses but I wanted them playing and exploring so I shuffled the arms and legs and heads and hats and hands etc. Now I cant figure out how to put them together. The boxes from different manufacturers aren't compatible so there are little weedy soldiers and great hulking beasts. And some thin guys with one huge arm! Etc. And they are such weird shapes that you can't even get hold of them; they spend half the time dropped on my carpet. And the ones I did put together last year? Well, I can't even work out where they are supposed to go on the tank(s)! Help meeeee! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bertie McBoatface Posted August 13, 2021 Author Share Posted August 13, 2021 49 minutes ago, Bertie Psmith said: Help meeeee! I just took the dog for a walk before lunch. I wanted to get away from the troops for a while. Anyway, I met a friend on his lunch break from working at home. He's employed by one of the banks - he told me he's been trying to sort out his figures all morning too! True story! 😄 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
echen Posted August 13, 2021 Share Posted August 13, 2021 Difficult to give a view without seeing the troops. Maybe try limiting mix and match to the same manufacturer? They all seem to produce varying sizes and call them one scale. I've got some Plastic Soldier Company, Zvezda and Preiser figures, all allegedly 1/72 but they vary either side of some 1/76 Airfix ones that came with an 88. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bertie McBoatface Posted August 13, 2021 Author Share Posted August 13, 2021 1 hour ago, echen said: Difficult to give a view without seeing the troops. Maybe try limiting mix and match to the same manufacturer? They all seem to produce varying sizes and call them one scale. I've got some Plastic Soldier Company, Zvezda and Preiser figures, all allegedly 1/72 but they vary either side of some 1/76 Airfix ones that came with an 88. Indeed. Sorry about the lack of photos. I'll take some when I get past the box of right arms, box of left arms point. Lol! What has helped me was a two hour nap. I was very tired. I'm thinking better now. Yes, I will sort my tubs of limbs back into their manufacturers, and then I'll try making the best use of the poses provided with minimal modifications. That worked ok with the figures in The M31/Dingo dio. I've just been too ambitious here. In the old days when figures were basically torsos with four tubular limbs, it was easier to make gross changes but modern figures are sculpted into much more interesting poses and won't (for me) go together in any other way. However, a bloke sitting firing a maxim gun can perhaps be made into a bloke sitting eating a sandwich instead. I will fill their hands with corned beef butties which they will eat in a warlike manner! I am not a sculptor but an assembler of kits; one should remember one's limitations, what! This diorama is half experiment, half KUTA and has developed without a coherent design from the beginning. The lesson to draw from this is for me to have a plan from the start, perhaps based on the poses of a few good resin figures. The little people are the first things the viewer looks at so they should, I now think, be the starting point of the thing. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Maginot Posted August 13, 2021 Share Posted August 13, 2021 Blimey! I had no idea vehicle modelling, or any kind of modelling, was like this. Jolly nice result all the same. Scuse me for finding this build so late. On 7/29/2021 at 5:11 AM, Bertie Psmith said: The kit came slowly on a boat from China which saved me some money but may have given me some grief. Yes, well, feel your pain here. I've got some parcels coming from certain republics located between the Baltic and the Black Sea that must be transiting via the outer spiral arm. Still, it's exciting when they do finally turn up. A few ragged holes and squished corners heighten the dramatic experience, though I must say that the postal fairy has looked after the precious contents... so far. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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