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AZ Models 1/72 Spitfire Mk14e


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As a real beginner, I looked here for some info on this kit. I found two really good builds but…….

One used aftermarket which I don’t want to do and the other was a fantastic introduction to the world of moulding.

Both of these were informative but I didn’t quite get what I wanted - a warts and all idiot’s guide. If there is any appetite for this kind of WIP written by an old, ham fisted newcomer to the hobby, I’m prepared to put my myself on the line - especially as this particular kit has its own little foibles!

 

Bill

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I built the Mk18 version of the same kit a few years back. It requires patience and a lot of dry fitting. The wing fuselage joint will need some care and a lot of trimming. 

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Thanks, Mr T. I’ve done a bit of dry fitting already and - well, I won’t be rushing this. 
 

Looks like at least 2 people are interested so I’ll go for it. 
 

Be gentle with me.

 

Bill

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A few sprue shots, but these have been shown elsewhere. Quite a bit of flash and very prominent pin marks.

 

AZ Spitfire

 

 

 

AZ Spitfire

 

AZ Spitfire

 

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The instruction sheet is a bit baffling to me. This, for the cockpit build. There are no locating pins on the parts and nothing really to show how the completed assembly should look. 

 

AZ Spitfire

 

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The two bulkheads (10&11) should be perpendicular to the floor piece, the seat support goes on as shown and when the seat is attached it will tilt back with the upper edge against the bulkhead. The armor backplate has been omitted by AZ. Hopefully this makes sense.

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I eventually got there. There was a lot of flash cleaned off, then painted and dry fitted. The lollipop stick is supposed to be the bulkhead that’s missing behind the seat.

AZ Spit

 

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Despite lots of wiggling and cajoling I couldn’t get the fuselage halves to fit. It didn’t help that the locating lines for the cockpit assembly are almost non existent. So I taped the fuselage halves together and located the assembly from below. Still didn’t fit so I started reducing each side of both bulkheads, constantly checking, until it located in the correct position. That was just a matter of perseverance. Once it fitted but before committing to glue, I noted what Mr T warned about above and checked fuselage to wing fit.

 

To do this, dry fitted the wing elements. They fitted well once I removed pin marks, seam lines and flash. 

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I wonder if the fit issues were made worse by the angle of the instrument panel frame, it should be straight up and down. As it is, it is throwing the whole cockpit off kilter and means your frame with the seat mounting is too far back. That frame should also be straight up and down and line up with the 'step' in the cockpit edge.

 

Mark.

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Good point well made😱. Assembly removed, squared up and replaced. Fuselage joined up a treat after a few light wipes with a file.

 

Az

 

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Muddling Moving on (thanks Harry) fuselage fits to wing sort of OK one side at a time but sadly not both at once. Taking Mr Ts advice I’m slowly trimming and check fitting at regular intervals. Also, optimistically looking ahead, the illustrated tabs and corresponding cut outs for the tail planes don’t exist - just plain faces to mate. (I take it there’s a better, almost identical kit to this with one set of instructions between them?) Anyway, from what I can see on various images there is no dihedral on the tail planes? Plain 90’?

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9 hours ago, BillF67 said:

Moving on (thanks Harry) fuselage fits to wing sort of OK one side at a time but sadly not both at once.

 

Given you're experiences with this kit, makes me glad I didn't get one of them!

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10 hours ago, BillF67 said:

Anyway, from what I can see on various images there is no dihedral on the tail planes? Plain 90’?

Correct. 

And yes - no alignment marks, pins, slots or tabs on any part. Welcome to short-run AZ/KP kits :)  
They do build up nicely though if you take the time to test-fit, fettle, test-fit some more and so on. 

 

 

 

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So don't worry, this is all part of the game :D

 

Butt-joins on the tailplane aren't that much of an issue with regular Tamiya white cap resin cement. Just make sure you straighten the mating surfaces, and keep them aligned while it's drying. 

Or, alternatively you could drill a pin into the attachment points - but I've never seen the need to do so. 

 

 

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Thanks for that, Harry and Alt. I hope to end up with something reasonable. I have to say that in some respects this is more fun than a simple slot together. Finally getting something to fit is most satisfying. I’m also probably being a lot more careful fitting than the majority of folk on here as my filling and sanding skills leave much to be desired so far. The less I have to do, the better. I would also hate to lose some of the very good detail - this kit isn’t all bad by any means!

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Posted (edited)

Hopefully of interest to the beginners (again), this newbie has printed his own decals, albeit from an existing, properly purchased (!) sheet. Really easy. Inkjet printer, decal paper and inkjet varnish (both readily and fairly cheaply available online). I wanted this facility as my decals of choice ((17 Sqn) are quite hard to come by and not cheap so I wanted some spares just in case. I scanned the image, but I suppose/suspect it will work equally well just photocopying - I’m sure wiser heads than me will know if this is true.

 

P.S. I also wanted to be able to “back up” really old decals (some of my kits are pretty ancient) just in case the originals were useless. This seems like a good way of doing it?

 

Bill

Edited by BillF67
Updated info
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Back to the model. Waiting for some filler to go off around the fuselage/wing join (mercifully very little) I looked at part(s) no. 26. Don’t know why they number these in the instructions because they aren’t numbered on the sprues!

 

These are 2 halves of the air intake. One half sort of OK, just a bit of flash. The other half, more like just a bit of intake. Not really, but the front opening was non existent so I had to use my little drill to open a hole then carefully remove as mush as I could.

51345997525_4be26d30b6_b.jpg

 

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I was going to edit mush out - but it seems appropriate😎

 

I got this far then decided it would be easier to finish off once attached to the fuselage. Not sure exactly where it attaches yet but I’m sure I can work it out.

Az

 

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Got them together - it isn’t that rough in real life, and I haven’t properly cleaned up yet. Also sorted where exactly this goes. Actually looks like I might do this.

Intake1

 

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I hope someone out there can help, please? Messrs A&Z provided a set of transfers to enhance the bodywork of the model. What that didn’t provide was a set of instructions showing where they go😖

 

Would anyone be able to point me to where I might find them?

 

VMT

 

Bill

 

51346193904_775fe1b03e_b.jpg

 

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Underneath mainly filled and tidied, waiting for tailplanes. Another thing I’ve picked up (newbie tip) is where there’s a joint to fill, mask both sides quite close to the join. Then you can use a spatula, finger, whatever your choice to fill and smooth to a good degree. When dry, take off masking tape and there is minimal sanding - and no real damage to detail.

 

Under

 

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2 hours ago, BillF67 said:

Would anyone be able to point me to where I might find them?

I may have something of a placement guide left over from a previous AZ/KP build. 

Stand by.

--

They do switch stencil sheets now and then, so here's two.

 

Link to full size Mk.V stencil placement

 

Link to full size Mk.IX stencil placement and stencil sheet numbers to match

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Spot on, Alt, and many thanks. I’m sure things wouldn’t have changed too much? I’ve tried hard on this so a bit of extra effort on the transfers seems only right!

 

VMT for persevering👍.

 

Bill

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Most of the stencils themselves are standard - it's often the numbering that will change somewhat between editions.

The one with the stencil sheet numbers might help in matching what you've got in the box.

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More advice needed please🙏
 

The prop blades are obviously “handed” and from the images I’ve been able to find, angled. Unfortunately, as moulded, there is no indication of how these should be assembled - all a bit free form.

 

Could anyone advise on what these should look like?

 

VMT

 

Bill

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Vol 2 All the Spitfire questions here - Page 70 - WWII - Britmodeller.com

 

The photo in the last posting shows a Merlin-engined Spitfire.  The Griffon goes the other way round.  The blades will have one straighter edge: this goes forward and is called the leading edge.

 

Your best bet, as always, is to find photos of the type of aircraft you are modelling, and study those.

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