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1/24 Hasegawa Nissan Bluebird 1600 SSS


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It's been a while since my last build. We've been busy with a complicated house move and there's plenty still to do making the new place habitable. I don't need other distractions, but then I noticed @fightersweep was having a stash reduction. Amongst the many aircraft, was this temptation:

 

 

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I love these early 70s Datsuns and the price was right, so I steamed in. I could have done with it being lost in the post for a few months but it arrived disappointingly promptly and has been tempting me ever since. I really shouldn't be getting into this right at the moment. I don't even have my modelling desk properly set-up and the lighting in the room is rubbish, but I suppose it's good painting weather and I could just make a start on the body in the sunshine...

 

 

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Check this out; boxy and lovely. The moulding quality looks really good and it has some crisp detailing, but it's hard to spot any imperfections due to the bright red plastic. Two light coats of Tamiya Fine Surface primer later and it's considerably easier on the eye. 

 

 

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Unusually for me, I'll build this one pretty much OOB, even down to painting it red courtesy of a clearance bargain Nissan red rattle can from Halfords. The forecast is possibly a little humid but I'll go for it anyway and cut it back as required. The primer coat is probably the best it'll look for a while though... 

 

This might be a slow build so don't be hanging on my every word.  

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Nice to see this kit getting some TLC instead of collecting dust in my stash. I'll tag along with this build if I may? Also nice to see the bodyshell with some primer on. It really highlights the nicely done details of the kit as we would expect from Hasegawa. When I opened the box initially, I screamed like a big girl as soon as I saw that red plastic bodyshell. Nothing quite like red plastic to make a quality kit look like it came out of the Starfix factory.

 

Great also to see a 70s Datsun being built. I do love 1970s Japanese cars.

 

Cheers!

Steve 

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Yes, the shell is free of mould lines and didn't need any rectification work so far. It's high quality, just a shame that Hasegawa kits always seem to be curbside, but I knew that before buying it because they're all the same. 

 

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Another spurt of progress today making hay while the sun shines. 

 

Listen up for my top tip paint technique:

 

Step 1: Slot the body over an old rattle can to elevate it, then spit a few light coats of red over it in the open air.

Step 2: Realise the dust has got up when I wasn't looking, so wait overnight and flat down as necessary.

Step 3: Repeat the process but this time spray it inside away from the wind, then place a climate controlled spray oven/pigeon defeat device on top to ensure that perfect finish.

 

 

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Wait a few hours and...

 

 

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Ta-da! It's gone from shiny red to primer to flat-ish red. I'm actually happy with the finish cos it'll polish up grand. I specifically don't want a high gloss finish because 50 year old Datsuns didn't look like that. What I need to do now is step away from the shell and let it cure for a few days. I may be flirting with disaster but I'll be returning to add a vinyl roof... it simply must have a vinyl roof, right? I'll use thin tape the make the seams then shoot some flat black over the top and actively hope for orange peel. What can possibly go wrong? 

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11 hours ago, Anteater said:

actively hope for orange peel. What can possibly go wrong? 

 

You do realise that you will get a perfect finish because you don't want one on this occasion 

Looking good so far looking forward to the next update now!

 

  Stay safe           Roger

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So...

 

Time for the vinyl roof. Two strips of the narrowest Trimline tape to represent the seams, careful masking followed by a coat of primer and a couple of coats of Simoniz Matt Black (which dries to a satin finish at best). 

 

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And...

 

 

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I think I'll get away with that. I suppose the most important question is whether there is a clear contrast between the "vinyl" sheen and the bodywork sheen. 

 

 

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I was bit concerned it might just look like a black painted roof but I'm hoping the seam detailing makes all the difference in fooling the eye. I debated spraying a coat of Matt varnish on top but that's bound to go wrong and I'm not sure it's necessary. 

 

I've cut back the red paintwork and polished it up, but I may dull it down a touch again by going back over with the cutting compound. I don't want it to look too shiny...

 

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For my eyes it looks great. If you're going to dull the red down, the vinyl roof should be matt to keep the effect. I would keep it as it is and add some chrome. Some people outthere gave a lot of TLC  even for japaneese sedans 🤗😇

Marco F 

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I don't know if the roof needs a bit more texture or a bit of matt varnish (just my view)?  The seams have turned out well and it might be that, as Marco said, once the chrome trim is added it will look more like vinyl.  I've got every confidence that the finished model will look great.

 

I know you could buy scale adhesive vinyl, which I've seen applied to 1:18 scale American cars to good effect.  But I've never seen it on sale in the UK and I don't know if it would be too thick and over-scale for 1:24 models.  Plus I bet it's a nightmare to stick down smoothly, so I think going for paint is the right thing to do.

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The roof has more texture than appears so in the photos, but saying that, it's probably got the correct degree of scale texture. Arguably, I might have painted it too well... 

 

But I'll resist the temptation to mess about with it anymore. 😀

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Update time.

 

All the dregs of my Revell and Tamiya silver paints had dried up or gone useless for one reason or another, so I ordered 5 different types this week in order to re-stock. Mr Hobby Aqueous No.8 was the first I opened and seemed to do the trick for the difficult task of picking out the chrome trims. 

 

 

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Now I know what you're going to say... the Nissan Bluebird 1600 SSS had chrome window surrounds on the doors, and I would agree. However, in model form it makes the doors look a little clumsy and you (or at at least I) will end up with a large expanse of silver paint all the way from the waistline to the guttering. And that doesn't look right. 

 

However, some of the lower-end Datsun 510 models didn't have these trims, only boasting a waistline trim and guttering. So that's what I've done. 

 

 

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I prefer it. Your thoughts may vary. But it's my car! I've also cut the paint back as far as I dare on the bonnet and bootlid to improve the finish. I'm definitely not going any further there. 

 

Annoyingly, my eye is drawn to the black spot on the vinyl roof which seems to be a mark on my camera's sensor. I have no idea how that has got there.

 

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Black things get painted black.

 

 

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Old Datsuns have groovy wheeltrims; fact. However, the chrome sprue makes these give off a bit too much glare. The trims require black portions which only accentuate the startling brightness of the chrome.

 

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They wouldn't stay clean for long on the road so I oversprayed them in matt coat and added a black wash, and I think they look all the better for it. The rear lights are also on the chrome sprue, sans lenses. I was sceptical about this but with sufficient coats of coloured clear they look ok. I repainted the chrome surrounds afterwards to tone them down a bit. It's easier that way.   

 

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The grille has had its black inserts painted (ooh... just been handed a G&T, excellent, I've drunk all this week's beer already), a job I wasn't looking forward to. However, you can basically blodge it on and then wipe it off the bars that stand proud before it dries. Perfect! 

 

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You know the black bits I painted black? Well the interior was too uniformly satin black so I've picked out the seat centre panels in tar black for a bit of contrast, as per the original. I've also carpeted the floor, and will probably carpet the parcel shelf too. 

 

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Laterz. 

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1 hour ago, Anteater said:

I've drunk all this week's beer already), a job I wasn't looking forward to.

Really?😮😜

 

Nice job on the interior. It's always tricky to make a completely black interior look interesting.

 

Nick

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Managed to get a few hours on this yesterday.

 

The dash is nearly done, just the steering wheel centre badge to add. The instrument decals were a challenge as usual. Why are they always cut microscopically larger than the instrument cut outs into which they should fit. Just why is that?

 

I've gone for the wooden wheel option to add a bit of colour, and picked out the radio knobs.

 

 

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The chassis is pretty simply, and includes my pet hate of a moulded-in front and centre exhaust. Oh well, a fast assembly even if I would prefer more complexity. 

 

A bit of weathering and it's good to go. 

 

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More soon. 

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I really like the weathering on the underside,  just a shame you'll never see it.  With regards to the decals for the instruments some people use punch and dies to get the exact size, but they are horrendously expensive. 

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Groovy face!

 

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My matt black painting isn't perfect around the inboard headlamps but I can only see the flaw down the camera lens. Every time I look at it directly the chrome reflects back and hides the issue. So it'll stay like that. 

 

The interior tub is now glued to the chassis and the wheels are on. It'll have a good realistic stance on those skinny tyres. The steering column is correctly located but the wheel sits a little too low compared to the real thing. Ideally it probably wants a bigger diameter wheel but I'll go with it as-is. 

 

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Thanks.

 

Now, you know how I said the height of the steering wheel was bothering me but I was going to leave it? That was the cue for you lot to tell me not to do half a job, and do it properly instead! While I was handling the tub today when clearing my desk, the wheel and column fell off... can't have been glued very well... So it was the perfect opportunity to set it at a different angle, this time using superglue. 

 

That's going nowhere and it looks a lot better.  

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My bargain hole punches have arrived. 

 

The wing mirrors are on a chrome sprue, but as the sprue attaches on the mirror face, once it's cut off it's no longer reflective. Logic fail. I've painted the mirror housings matt black because I prefer that. I tried painting the mirror surface silver, but it didn't really convince. As they are 3mm diameter, the problem can be solved with a hole punch and some tin foil. Reasonably happy with that, even in extreme close-up...  

 

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