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Supermarine Spitfire Mk.1a, Airfix 1:24


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Most of you will probably know that I primarily build 1:144 airliners.

 

However, seeing the size of this box in the model store intrigued me, and I decided to try something new.

 

This is the Airfix Vintage Classics Spitfire in 1:24; I also bought the 1:24 Hurricane to keep him company later on.

 

The Spitfire seems to be a staple on here, but I already have my first question about this kit.

 

The boxart shows two schemes, with a blueish underside, and one with a black underside (possibly half-white, half-black).

 

But this kit has a supplement to the instructions that shows the colour schemes, and both sides of the sheet seem to show the same scheme...

 

I really like the white/black scheme (I have it in 1:72), but I'm wondering if anyone knows about the instructions for 1:24?

 

IMG_4708

 

Notice the boxart with two schemes, and side 1 of the instruction supplement:

 

IMG_4709

 

Then side 2 of the instruction supplement shows this:

 

IMG_4710

 

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The side of the box shows the aircraft in pre-May 1940 colours - note the roundel and lack of fin flash.  The instructions show it in post-June 6th underside colour.  So they could both be right.  As this would be an aircraft painted in service there is room for doubt as to which exact shade the underside should be, but personally I'd be inclined to stick to Sky for it..  You don't say which markings are available on the transfer sheet.  Possibly Airfix have changed the option since the original release but haven't quite caught all the changes in the art.

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This reminds me of many a childhood Christmas. If I was a good boy Santa left me an Airfix 1/24 scale kit under the tree. I'm very much looking forward to seeing this and the Hurricane come together.

 

Richie

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Oh my! That was first released in 1970, a lifetime ago. Is it the oldest kit still on the market, I wonder. Nineteen different boxings, wow!

(I suppose the one new parts release in 2005 means it's not really 51 years of continuous service for a single kit though.)

 

I built it when a mere boy and will be fascinated to see how this one turns out.

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2 hours ago, Graham Boak said:

The side of the box shows the aircraft in pre-May 1940 colours - note the roundel and lack of fin flash.  The instructions show it in post-June 6th underside colour.  So they could both be right.  As this would be an aircraft painted in service there is room for doubt as to which exact shade the underside should be, but personally I'd be inclined to stick to Sky for it..  You don't say which markings are available on the transfer sheet.  Possibly Airfix have changed the option since the original release but haven't quite caught all the changes in the art.

 

They could both be right, but usually, the decal instructions tell you how to do both options.

 

These are the decals that were in the box:

 

IMG_4711

 

The box art shows KLB with the sky underside, and LOB with the black/white underside.

 

But the decal instructions only cover KLB on both sides of the sheet.

 

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Right, I'd missed that because of the darkness of the picture - must turn the brightness up on my screen.

 

What else do you need to know?  The camouflage pattern is the same.  It is a half black, half white scheme split down the centreline of the fuselage.  I don't know how the squadron codes are arranged on the other side of the fuselage, but I suspect Airfix didn't know either.  Unless someone comes online to tell us, take your pick.  On the other example, the box side shows a much bluer underside, perhaps meant to match the earlier BSC Sky Blue, rather than the Sky on the instruction sheet.  Take your pick on that one too.

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This is a lovely kit and can build up to a cracking model, airfix did will on the surface details with this IMHO.  

This was raised on @Johnsons build, if you go to the Aifix site you can download the correct instructions I think.

Chris

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26 minutes ago, bigbadbadge said:

This is a lovely kit and can build up to a cracking model, airfix did will on the surface details with this IMHO.  

This was raised on @Johnsons build, if you go to the Aifix site you can download the correct instructions I think.

Chris

 

It looks great, and there's not as much flash on there as I was expecting, after having seen some reviews on YouTube.  The surface detail is really impressive, I just hope I don't lose too much of it during the sanding sessions.

 

I had a look on the Airfix website, and the community page has similar issues from other users, some have posted screenshots of the correct instructions but they don't load.

 

I've emailed to see if there are updated instructions available.

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This kit used to come with KL-B decals for Al Deere's aircraft, and I note that the decals still have his "Kiwi" emblem on them.

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NeilG, this is what you're missing (from my old MkIa that I built 33 years ago):

spacer.png

 

LO-B from 602Sqn RAF is indeed a white/black split on the undersides, with the name 'Bogus' on the port side of the fuselage below the cockpit. It has standard daytime fighter earth/green camo upper surfaces.

 

Hope that helps!

I'm currently in the middle of a project with three of these kits - two new builds (one MkIa and one MkVb) and my old build is being dismantled, stripped of paint and getting a full refurb and rebuild.

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9 hours ago, Rob Henderson said:

NeilG, this is what you're missing (from my old MkIa that I built 33 years ago):

spacer.png

 

LO-B from 602Sqn RAF is indeed a white/black split on the undersides, with the name 'Bogus' on the port side of the fuselage below the cockpit. It has standard daytime fighter earth/green camo upper surfaces.

 

Hope that helps!

I'm currently in the middle of a project with three of these kits - two new builds (one MkIa and one MkVb) and my old build is being dismantled, stripped of paint and getting a full refurb and rebuild.

 

Thanks for that.

 

I am missing that too, but it was more the stencil data that I was looking for.

 

Airfix replied at 8am this morning with the instructions, which I'm really impressed with.

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Hi Neil,

It's a great kit but has it's challenges. I did a rather OTT build which lasted almost a year.

I also plan to build LO-B with the B&W underside, so I bought the same kit you have. The problem is that for some bizarre reason Airfix got the decal (49) for the name 'BOGUS' painted on the fuselage completely wrong. It should be grey and much bigger. Have a look at this post for photos and profiles of LO-B. Montex include it in their mask set, but it's in white and the masks for the LO-B letters are the wrong size.

If you're interested in DW-K, Fundecals have researched Al Deere's plane very well and their website has a useful download. Or had, as the website is currently being rebuilt. But I do have the PDF file and could email it to you (or anyone else interested) if you want. PM me your email address if interested.

Lastly, for really excellent 1/24 Spitfire stencil decals, Techmod do a brilliant set.

Best of luck whatever you decide to build!

Cheers,

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21 minutes ago, marky sparky said:

My first ever BIG model made as a kid. Happy memories.

 

It must have seemed even bigger as a kid!

 

Hopefully you enjoy this build along with me!

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Some early filler work already:

 

IMG_4724

 

The first few steps are to assemble the engine, including the addition of the propeller.  

 

Each of the propeller blades as some sort of dimple, which is going to need some work to smooth out.

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On 7/20/2021 at 4:39 PM, Graham Boak said:

The side of the box shows the aircraft in pre-May 1940 colours - note the roundel and lack of fin flash.  The instructions show it in post-June 6th underside colour.  So they could both be right.  As this would be an aircraft painted in service there is room for doubt as to which exact shade the underside should be, but personally I'd be inclined to stick to Sky for it..  You don't say which markings are available on the transfer sheet.  Possibly Airfix have changed the option since the original release but haven't quite caught all the changes in the art.

Beige green  surely Graham😬🙄😆

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Okay, step 2, and I'm already stuck.

 

How does the propeller shaft (10) fit into the propeller?

 

It looks like the shaft fits from the inside of the engine, and the propeller connects to it when it's installed:

 

IMG_4725

 

But, do I have a deformed shaft?

 

IMG_4726

 

It's got a lobe on one side of the shaft, giving it an oval shape, whereas the propeller has a circular hole.

 

And they don't fit together...

 

In addition, why is it important not to fit part 9 at this point?

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It looks like part 10 is short shot or deformed, hence it won’t fit. You could cut it off, drill a hole in the base of part 10 and fit a brass or some such rod of the right diameter to fit into the prop.

 

regarding part 9, I suspect you don’t glue this in place as it needs to be adjusted to fit with part 11 in a later stage- look ahead and see if there’s any indication in the next step or two. I’ve never built this kit but that would be my guess.

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34 minutes ago, neilg said:

Okay, step 2, and I'm already stuck.

 

How does the propeller shaft (10) fit into the propeller?

 

It looks like the shaft fits from the inside of the engine, and the propeller connects to it when it's installed:

 

IMG_4725

 

But, do I have a deformed shaft?

 

IMG_4726

 

It's got a lobe on one side of the shaft, giving it an oval shape, whereas the propeller has a circular hole.

 

And they don't fit together...

 

In addition, why is it important not to fit part 9 at this point?

Part 9 has two pipe ends that need to fit into the pipes along the top of part 11.

It's those stubby connectors that need the glue, not the rest of the 'ring' shaped tank.

 

The end of the prop shaft has a ridge of flash still on it - you need to take this off, and carefully examine the rest of the parts for split lines and rough edges as you put it together.

The inner pin (part 10) to my mind is superfluous. You can easily fix the prop shaft in place by gluing it to the inside of the gearbox cuff part 5a. 

I have left part 10 out. It's easier to leave the prop separate until final touches - you can literally glue it into the gearbox as the last thing, and I say this from experience of building this kit five times in total now. It will make fining the engine bay cowling, supporting framework and Merlin engine far easier, and give you chance to smooth up the nose end plate created by joining the fuselage halves together, thus allowing for smooth rotation of the prop.

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2 minutes ago, Rob Henderson said:

Part 9 has two pipe ends that need to fit into the pipes along the top of part 11.

It's those stubby connectors that need the glue, not the rest of the 'ring' shaped tank.

 

The end of the prop shaft has a ridge of flash still on it - you need to take this off, and carefully examine the rest of the parts for split lines and rough edges as you put it together.

The inner pin (part 10) to my mind is superfluous. You can easily fix the prop shaft in place by gluing it to the inside of the gearbox cuff part 5a. 

I have left part 10 out. It's easier to leave the prop separate until final touches - you can literally glue it into the gearbox as the last thing, and I say this from experience of building this kit five times in total now. It will make fining the engine bay cowling, supporting framework and Merlin engine far easier, and give you chance to smooth up the nose end plate created by joining the fuselage halves together, thus allowing for smooth rotation of the prop.

 

Ah ok, I think that's what I'll do - I haven't glued 5A in place, so it's free to turn.

 

If I leave 10 out, I can just push the prop in as the last step right?

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22 minutes ago, neilg said:

 

Ah ok, I think that's what I'll do - I haven't glued 5A in place, so it's free to turn.

 

If I leave 10 out, I can just push the prop in as the last step right?

It's worked for me before, and I'm using the same process on the three I'm building at the moment.

Just take care in making sure the fit of parts will allow smooth and easy fitting of the shaft into part 5a, the last thing you want to end up doing is exerting too much pressure into the engine and causing damage later on because it was a smidge too snug.....or conversely whittling the shaft down to the point where it's too loose.

 

The option suggested by Plasticbasher above is also a very viable route to follow by making a new pin for fixing the issue with part 10.

 

Personally I find leaving the prop off till last makes for an easier time when it comes to painting the camo too.

As an aside, the MVb version of this kit had the build sheet amended and showed the prop being put in place in the second to last build stage #33.

 

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