Revell Audi R10 TDi Le Mans Gift Set (05682) 1:24

[Mike]

Audi R10 TDi Le Mans Gift Set (05682)

1:24 Revell

 

 

The R10 was the numerical and physical successor to the R8 chassis that saw success in the Le Mans Prototype 1 (LMP1) category from the 2006 season after unveiling in late 2005, until 2009, when it too was replaced by the updated R15 design due to the reducing level of success that it was experiencing by that time.  All three vehicles were similar in looks, but under the hood they were all very different machines.  The R10 was longer than its predecessor due to the space requirements of the extended V12 TDi engine, which was bored out to 5.5 litres and fed air from twin compressors working in parallel.  It output over 700bhp at maximum power, and due to various oddities, the intakes were reduced in area to essentially even the playing field a little.  There were issues to weight too, but those were resolved so that it could take part in racing, where it excelled despite being “held back” by the regulations, which extended to the aerodynamic systems that could be employed too.  Why does racing have to be so complex?

 

The type won many races during the time it was employed, all the while improving the reputation of the diesel engine that was flavour of the month with many governments and regulators at the time.  After the retirement of the chassis from the factory team, they continued to be employed by independent teams until 2010, where the lack of restrictions led to the engines failing due to the increased torque output by the un-knobbled engines that were finally able to breathe properly.  Their qualifying laps however were impressive, but that doesn’t win trophies.   The R15 that replaced it had a short but interesting career that began with a win, but more changes to regulations led to be being replaced by the R18, which had an enclosed cockpit with a much different look.

 

The Kit

This is a re-release of the kit that was originally tooled in 2007 when the R10 was still at the height of its success.  This edition adds a 3D Puzzle diorama backdrop that has the famous Dunlop bridge depicted, plus a set of six acrylic “thumb-pots” of paint, a paint brush and some glue as befits the Gift Set name.  It arrives in a deep end-opening box, and inside are seven sprues plus two bodyshell parts in dull silver styrene, a sprue of clear parts, four flexible “rubber” tyres, and an instruction booklet with colour painting and decaling guide at the rear.  The 3D base is shrink-wrapped with a page of instructions, and comprises three folded A3 sheets of glossy-surfaced foamboard that is printed in colour on both sides.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Construction begins with the V12 diesel, which is a big lump and made up from a substantial number of parts, with the rear suspension wishbones and drive-shafts projecting from the sides of the transmission block.  The complex 6-outlet exhaust manifolds have the turbos at the convergence point, with an exit pipe running aftwards to be joined by the exhausts at the rear later on.  The complex rear empennage incorporates the supports for the rear spoiler and the rear light clusters, and these are made up first to be fitted to the rear of the floor tray after the engine has been installed along with its axles and brake disk assemblies.  The ovalised rectangular exhausts pop out above the diffuser area, and are surrounded by the aforementioned aerodynamic panels, which are linked together by the twin-level spoiler, then put to the side while the cockpit tub and some of the internals are put together.

 

The fuel tank behind the driver is detailed with a filler-cap, two small radiator baths are put together, and the dash is outfitted with some equipment and eight decals to add detail, with the lower tub prepared with the top surface of the front wing, some suspension wishbones, struts and other components such as brake disks and callipers inserted into the lower half.  A steering arm snaps onto posts on the hubs to ensure they both point in the same direction, then the fuel tank is inserted into the rear of the monocoque, the seat along with its moulded-in belts and some nicely done decals to lay over the top are placed into their slot, the pedal group attaches to pegs in the floor, then the horizontal dash goes over the top.

 

Moving back to the lower rear, the radiators and their intake trunking are placed in the pods on the left and right, preparing it for the joining of the assemblies together later on.  Meantime, more assemblies are needed, with the tyres the first to be made up.  The hubs are paired, with the rear pair slightly larger and wider than the front hubs, as are the tyres that fit over them.  This allows you to paint the hubs beforehand, so there’s no tricky masking to do later.  The vertical portion of the dash is made next, comprising two parts with two carbon-fibre decals, and the highly expensive steering “wheel” that more closely resembles a yoke, which has four decals of its own to represent the complex electronic displays that modern racing cars use.

 

The front bodyshell is moulded in two halves, front and rear, with most of the shapes moulded into the parts, however there are some aspects that would have been difficult or impossible to mould in one piece, which is why there are some additional parts in the intakes for the radiators on the sides and in between the nose and the wheel pods.  The vertical dash and another panel are inserted into the upper body too, and in the front, the clear lenses and their surrounds are glued into the light recesses, then covered over with a clear aerodynamic panel once they are painted.  The front bodyshell is then placed over the monocoque and front axle, taking care to guide the seat back inside the driver cut-out and avoid damaging the decals and paint.  The front wheels just snap into place at this point, although that depends on whether you’re painting as you go along.  The tyres will benefit from a little trimming off the slightly off-centre flash on the rear rim, and a buff with a sanding stick on the contact patch will imitate the scrubbing that is usually visible on even a fresh set.

 

The rear bodyshell is detailed next, with a pair of intake horns on the front of the rear wheel sponsons, with a little paint and decaling, depending on which team you are portraying.  The front of the vehicle is then joined to the rear chassis and the rear bodyshell can be glued in place or left loose to show off the engine if you wish.  Adding the three antennae on the nose and the two wing mirrors with separate glazing parts finish off the build, with the separate glazing allowing easy painting of the mirrors with Molotow Chrome, or Stuart Semple’s Mirror paint to accurately depict the reflective surface.

 

 

Markings

There are two livery options for this successful diesel, from two separate Le Mans races in 2006.  The main differences are the red shade of the side-pods and the colour of the roll-over bars, as well as the racing number.  From the box you can build one of the following:

 

• Team 8, Winner 24 hours of Le Mans, 2006
• Team 7, 3rd 24 hours of Le Mans, 2006

 

 

 

Decals are by Cartograf, which is a guarantee of good registration, sharpness and colour density, with a thin gloss carrier film cut close to the printed areas.  The decals include lots of carbon-fibre panels, a lot of decals for the instruments, and a full set of markings for the tyres.  The carbon-fibre doesn’t show up well on the scan above, so I have added a photo from my phone below that shows the pattern to much better effect.

 

 

 

The Diorama Base

Supplied on three folded A3 sheets of foam board with glossy colour printing on both sides, the parts just push out from the backing, and fit together with slots and tabs, staying there thanks to friction and the squishy nature of the foam.  The base comprises two layers with faceted wood-printed sides, and a nameplate for the front of the base.  There are also pieces of armco, a stack of tyres and even a little wire fence, plus a large section of a Dunlop themed (and shaped) bridge, the likes of which are seen at many race tracks.  The completed base can be seen in the corner of the box top as well as below.

 

 

 

 

Conclusion

This is a nice contemporary kit of the R10, and once a few sink-marks have been dealt with long with the seams between the add-in panels for the aerodynamics, a good replica with a well-detailed engine can be made.  The base is quite impressive too, and will give a more appealing finish than the vehicle on its own, providing you have the space in your cabinet of course.

 

Highly recommended.

 

Currently, Revell are unable to ship to the UK from their online shop due to recent changes in import regulations, but there are many shops stocking their products where you can pick up the kits either in the flesh or online.

 

 

Revell model kits are available from all good toy and model retailers. For further information visit

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