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64 1/2 Mustang Convertible.


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My first Ebay purchase finally arrived from Nevada. Took a while and cost more than I really wanted to pay,more for postage and duties than the actual kit, but it is the car I would love to do. It came in a small box so I was worried for a minute but it is quite a deep box and on opening everything is nicely packed in. At first glance it is a bit dated but as it is from the mid 90s originally this is to be expected.

A quick story on why this particular car. I was stuck in traffic in the most romantic of places, Hatfield Tescos access road, when I heard rumbling coming up along side me on the outside lane. A car passed and it was a Trans Am. Meh, not a big fan, but on its tail was this car and it's been on my "lottery win wish list" since then.

The colour I want to do it in is Caspian Blue (see Kitkent's photos in the reference thread) but I am struggling to find it at the moment. I already bought a colour way off and Guardsman Blue as a back up if I can't get it.

Anyway, here's the obligatory sprue shots and I will start making this soon,once I finished a bike I am doing. (I also have 2 and a bit tanks to finish but my military mojo has gone for now.)

 

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Thanks for looking in and all the best in your builds.👍

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Cheers Andy. Looks to be a simple and straightforward kit but I'm sure,being a car novice,I'll be tapping you up for advice when needed.👍

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4 hours ago, Stef N. said:

Cheers Andy. Looks to be a simple and straightforward kit but I'm sure,being a car novice,I'll be tapping you up for advice when needed.👍

Anytime mate 👍 

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A great choice!  I'll be hoping to pick up some detailing ideas for my baby version :popcorn:

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8 hours ago, Stef N. said:

If you are interested I stumbled upon this website after searching for car colours. Loads of great photos, especially the interior.

 

https://www.vanguardmotorsales.com/vehicles/3845/1965-ford-mustang-convertible

 

Thanks for that Stef - it is great resource :thumbsup2:

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  • 2 weeks later...

Nothing much happening so far. Life getting in the way of everything at the moment.Cleaned up the body and dry fitted some of the parts. I was going to paint the shell and the tub seperately but upon dry fitting there is going to be a gap that will need filling between the tub and the side walls. A problem to fix in the near future.

 

Anyway, tested some paints and whittled it down to a choice of two.

 

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Tamiya Lacquer LP-47 Pearl Blue.

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Tamiya Lacquer LP-41 Mica Blue.

 

I'm veering to the lighter Mica Blue. I was expecting it to be a bit glittery but it's turned out to be a great colour.

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  • 3 weeks later...

Right, I can finally start this properly. My other kit is 99% finished, made a pigs ear out of a decal so a bit of painting to do, but nothing major. Anyway, dry fitted the chassis, body, tub and bonnet and the fit is very good, if a little awkward to get them to all align. Luckily, the gaps between the doors and the tub are not as bad as first view so I can paint most in separate sub assemblies. It should be a fun build with a nice amount of detail.

 

One tiny problem is I keep finding hidden seams. I can't see them very well but I can feel them. (They're a bit more obvious in tank building.) Some good priming is going to be essential.

 

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There's often a sharp seam running along the top of the fenders. Paint has a habit of running away from it if it's not rounded off slightly

The door gaps are another area that often need attention on older moulds. Sanding across the gap reveals a bit of sinking that can show badly on a gloss finish. It usually sands back flat though. Running the folded edge of a bit of 600 grit paper along the door gap itself helps paint hold on there as well. 

 

Apologies if I'm preaching to the converted, I've learned all the above the hard way.

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It's all helpful Tony. I've built many a tank and bike but a novice when it comes to cars. 👍

I did find the sharp seam on the fenders. I am trying to not be too heavy handed but keep missing bits. I could feel them during dry fitting. 

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I've started putting a single thin layer of primer over the body shells before I really start on the paint job proper. For some reason all the seams are much more obvious when you have primer on it than when you are looking at bare plastic. And if you do a different colour primer to the plastic it's usually easier to tell when you have rid of the seams. Once you're happy, apply the primer-paint-clear process as you would normally.

 

Of course that doesn't mean that some seams won't appear soon after... but you should get more this way.

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Same for me.  While the primer helps paint adhesion, for me the main purpose of the primer is to highlight areas that I need to touch up/clean up prior to paint (particularly useful for fuselage join seams).

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That looks the best option I think. I have some Mr Hobby grey primer, and although not the super smooth stuff, most will get rubbed smoother anyway. And it will be much easier to work on than shiny white plastic.

 

Another quick question if any of you know. What is the glossy coating left after de-chroming and does anything fully remove it? It's quite thick on this kit and dulls a few of the details but if it is on for good not a big problem.

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9 hours ago, Stef N. said:

Another quick question if any of you know. What is the glossy coating left after de-chroming and does anything fully remove it? It's quite thick on this kit and dulls a few of the details but if it is on for good not a big problem.

 

I've just been dealing with the same on a Pyro car kit produced in 1967.  I used oven cleaning gel (which is strong caustic soda), to remove it.  Initially, the gel didn't seem to have been that effective, but once it had been washed off and fully dried, the varnish flaked off easily enough (helped by a gentle prod with a cocktail stick in some tighter spots).

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Engine all painted and put aside for a while. The colours based on an unmodified engine, not entirely accurate, but near enough. Not a bad little engine but ripe for extra details but that will be left for a later day. Used a bit of Mr Surfacer 500 to add a texture to the engine and I can see why people recommend it.

 

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I'm following the instructions pretty closely, not sure why, so tub will be next and will be trying a few different paint techniques to get the differing textures of leather, carpet and metal.

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I'm sure I'm not the first or last person to have done this but I chose a colour for the interior that I was happy with. Then a good masking and paint job on the tub, seats etc that went really well and left aside overnight to dry. 

Sadly the next day I realise that it doesn't work at all. I don't like it and it is far too overpowering, rather than complimentary, for the exterior blue. 

Nevermind, learning the hard way is sometimes the best way.... 

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Posted (edited)

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Aaargh.Too blue. X-3 Royal Blue.

 

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That's better imo. A bit calmer and more realistic. X-4 Blue plus XF18 Medium Blue. A wash/pin wash once dried will bring out some out the contours and shapes.

 

Edited by Stef N.
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