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Revell 1/24 GT350 H (Hertz) - Completed


HoolioPaulio

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The body is prepped for its first primer layer to see if any tidying up is required.  First the side scoops were installed

 

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Then I strengthened behind the front and real lights

 

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Then drilled them out, for the fronts I used a 5mm drill bit so they have a conical shape (but you can't tell on the pic)

 

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And the rears just a square hole, and I made slits in the light covers.  I used a little pin vise, a lot of swearing, and not enough patience.  So one of the covers is in for repair at the moment, hopefully I can save it.

 

IgaeRa6.jpg

 

The body and hood have been washed, will try and get some primer on tomorrow.

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OK, after some priming, sanding, filling, sanding, and priming with have progress.  Primed in Ultimate black

 

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Then a base coat of (bear with me here) Vallejo Bright Brass

 

fDpaDqn.jpg

 

That's drying, now, further updates to follow...

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Hmm, bit of a disaster, while sanding the top coat smooth I went through some of the red back to the brass.  But it didn't look like I had sanded through, more like it pulled off, so I decided to sand it more and the candy red began sluffing off like a snake shedding skin.  I got back to the brass layer very easily with barely any damage to the brass.  I'm not sure what went wrong with the candy red, but bit of a silver lining really.  I like the finished colour it gave, but not on this Mustang, and it didn't fit with my over all plan for it.  While the test spoon matched the car, it looked more orange/brown on the car than it did on the spoon.  It will actually work well on another project I'm keeping in the back of my mind.  For now I've got to decide what to do to get the colour I was aiming for, and whether to try and strip all the paint of and start a again or just paint over the brass.  Although previously I've not found anything in my arsenal that can strip Ultimate primer once its dry, so it might be just a strip back to the primer and start again.

 

This is a picture of the stripped car, with a chunk of the candy red, if anyone has any ideas what might have gone wrong feel free to shout up.  It was Vallejo candy red over Vallejo light brass, then Microscale gloss on top.  Never had this issue before with Vallejo and Microscale...

 

7t3bNGK.jpg

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That's a shame as it did look good with the candy red on. I'm not familiar with Vallejo paints, but you haven't got an acrylic candy over lacquer brass paint have you? It doesn't often pay to mix paints, and that failure to adhere is something I would expect to be at risk of happening if you put water-based paint over lacquer without keying the surface first (and you shouldn't sand metallic which would rule out that method anyway!).

 

Sorry if I've missed it and you tried earlier, but I always like to do a test spray of the layers being used on a cheap plastic teaspoon before committing to a model body - maybe something to try with your next paint scheme?

 

The other question is whether you gave it long enough to cure properly before sanding. I always try to leave at least two weeks before sanding (following instructions on Halfords spray cans), and will also apply the smell test (put the body under your nose, and if you can smell the paint it's too soon to sand).

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Thanks Spiny, but apart from curing time pretty much all those bases were covered.  Both paints were Vallejo water based.  I often do a test or two over plastic spoons, but as I'm always working with the same type of stuff I've never tried sanding a test spoon, I just use it for colour mixing tests.  Usually the Vallejo acrylics are sandable within 30 minutes, they have no real odour even when spraying so can't use the sniff test with them.

 

I have just noticed though, the candy red is a water based acrylic polyurethane, and I think more aimed at RC car painting as its designed to resist impact and fuel spills so probably stays a bit flexible to avoid cracking.  It doesn't say anything about drying time on the bottle.  I had left it 2 days before top coating, but maybe it needs a lot longer.  I'll try sanding the test spoon as thats been done for months, and isn't scraping off with my nail.

 

Anyway, as much as I liked the colour for a future build it didn't work on the Mustang for what I'm planning.

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Man that's crazy about that paint just peeling off like that. I work alot with lacquers and enamels for most of my automotive subjects as they tend to get alot of wet sanding and tend to stay away from the acrylic side of the house for that very reason. Looking forward to your recovery efforts HP.

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So while re priming the body I rechecked the instructions and realised I missed the pieces that would have been chrome that go behind the head lights.  They are only 1mm thick, but I still didn't want the headlights to look too sunk in without them.  So I initially tried to drill them out to then glue in place.  However, putting a 6mm hole in an 8mm disk of plastic 1mm think is not as easy as it sounds (and it sounds damn difficult).  Predictably the first one snapped during drilling, so out came the plasticard.  Drilled the hole first, then trimmed round it with my snips to get the bulk off, then patiently sanded it until it fit...

 

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With a new test spoon done I'm ready to retry the body, with hopefully the correct colour this time...

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OK, so paint take two went very well, and is the colour I was after.  Starting with Vallejo gunmetal base

 

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Followed by Tamiya clear red

 

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All chrome parts were stripped earlier, and have now been airbrushed with Molotow, and will get a layer of gloss in a day or two after fully curing.  All other parts have been primed in black ready for details.  Couple of days for the body to fully go off and I'll gloss it ready for decals.

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So there is still a lot of work to be done with setting compound, and I'm not sure I'll get them all smooth, but I'm so pleased with how well the gold decals go with the paint :)

 

0hr1MXV.jpg

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  • HoolioPaulio changed the title to Revell 1/24 GT350 H (Hertz) - Completed

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