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Ferrari 330 P4 - Fujimi 1:24 by fnick


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So sorry to see this happen to you.  I agree with Keith in that stuff was sign written, or were vinyl stickers.  Hope you get it sorted.

Trevor

PS I don't do clearcoat over decals on any of my models.

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Oh no, it was all going so well!

 

If you think you can salvage it that would be seriously impressive, but I think the path of least resistance must be to buy another decal sheet and strip it back to start again... 

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Thanks for the comments and advice all. Much appreciated.

 

Another layer of clear added and decal sanded back and smooth

 

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With some super thin layers of paint it might you never know just be possible...

 

Nick

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You beat me to it, but I was going to say that your summary of the process looked right. I was going to clarify too that you're probably best off using a 3000/4000 grit sanding medium like you would for flatting back orange peel, but it looks as though you used something similar there.

 

Just to be clear, for the best end result you would need to get a new set of decals, and probably end up going right back to a bare plastic body. But you should still be able to get a decent result touching up the decal (this is where a 10/0 brush and magnifying headset will really come in handy). The white will be the hardest to get an exact colour match, but you should be able to get reasonably close. For the black, it's unlike that any difference in colour will be visible. After you've touched up the paint (and tested the touch up with the clear for a reaction) add a couple of mist coats then go with the heavier wet coats. The existing clear will help to protect the decal to quite a degree so you should run less risk of further damage than when you first painted it.

 

Good luck, you've done the scary bit so it should get better from here.

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1 hour ago, Spiny said:

going right back to a bare plastic body

To be quite honest it would be nice if I didn't have to do that on a model! 😥. Yes I know get the violins out! 😄 If I can get a decent result by touching up the decals then I'll settle for decent!

 

Nick

 

 

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3 hours ago, Fnick said:

Thanks for the comments and advice all. Much appreciated.

 

Another layer of clear added and decal sanded back and smooth

 

spacer.png

 

With some super thin layers of paint it might you never know just be possible...

 

Nick

Good luck.  Hope it works out OK for you.

Trevor

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Evening all

 

Did a quick trial of painting the white scratches. I think even if I can get a matching white (which is going to be very difficult as the decal is slightly translucent and the red is showing through) the cracks will still be visible...

 

I've ordered some new decals. I'll sand all of them down. Although I'm tempted to have another go and putting the clear over the decals think I might put the clear on first, sand and polish and then put the decals on top...

 

Need to sleep on it.

 

Nick

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On 29/07/2021 at 22:15, Fnick said:

I might put the clear on first, sand and polish and then put the decals on top...

 

That would be my choice.

Trevior

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2 hours ago, klubman01 said:

That would be my choice

Going to be mine too! Those decals looked pretty good straight on the paint so I'm hoping they won't look too bad on a  polished clear coat.

 

Nick

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Were they Cartograf decals Nick as the same thing happened to me on a bike? Cartograf crinkled and will need redoing, while Hobby Design worked perfectly. Odd and got me trying to figure out what to do with the rest.

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Hi Stef

 

they came from a company called lemansdecals.com (ordered off a certain auction website!). Give that some parts of the decals seemed to be ok suggests the first mist coat was too heavy. If I was to start from scratch I would do a few very light mist coats before going onto wetter coats. Not saying that would necessarily work though! 🙂 but that is what I would try.

 

Nick

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Hi Nick sorry to see you had issues with the clear coat over the decals. Out of interest many of my car builds have been clear coated and then I've applied the decals on top of the clear. Granted the decals don't have the protection of a clear coat but as my finished builds go into a display case I don't see any problem. Tbh I don't think you would be able to see the difference in any of my builds whatever process I've used and because the clear leaves a nice gloss finish the decals lay down perfectly. Hope this makes sense mate 🤔👍

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Evening all

 

P4 finally clear coated! I'll let that cure for a few days. Despite decals mishap still pleased with how it's looking...

 

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Now that all the spraying is done on this I'm back on the Cadillac (should probably start a build log for that one...) for its clear coating (I'm going through cans of TS-13 like there's no tomorrow! 😄)

 

Thanks for looking, Nick

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Excellent finish you have there. And the decals don't look too bad - not sure whether that's a trick of the camera or whether they really don't look bad unless you go into ultra-close up.

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Trick of the camera!😄 The front one also has had some white paint in the cracks so it looks better that in actually is. 

Two others are not too bad but will still need sanding down. Replacements are on their way.

 

Nick

 

 

 

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Very much a thread of ups & downs. In spite of your hassles, I just like the look of what you've got so far, maybe why I went out & bought one of these off Hobbysearch 1999.co.jp, though I'll likely want to convert mine to the Spyder that Chris Amon & Lorenzo Bandini won the Daytona 24 hours with in 1967. I'll pay more attention to this now. :)

Steve.

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That's a great recovery Nick, I know that up close you will always see any imperfections yourself as everyone is always more critical of their own builds than anyone else

I'd be more than happy with that finish if it was one of mine, well done :) 

Love the curves and overall shape of cars from this period

 

Ian :) 

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Something I found out, having lost the dashboard part...duh. While making a new one from scratch I found some good interior shots and realized that the main instrument nacelle has 3 instruments house in it, plus there's a single a bit over to the left side of the cluster. There's some good info here.  At this point I'm not sure where I'm going to find dials for them :🤔.  Hoping I can get close to the finish you've got on the bodywork!

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