Revell Hertz Shelby Mustang, somewhat modified.

[Pete in Lincs]

1 hour ago, TonyW said:

but I could watch it back to back for a day or two.

At least! I first saw the film at the cinema and was enthralled by the chase. It still does it for me.

[TonyW]

Slow progress at the moment, the Hippy base got raised a bit and that's about it for the last couple of days. It's worth another picture at any rate.

 

 

Some dressmaking needles in a few sizes and some different gauge fine wires have turned up so hood pins can't be far away.

 

Tony.

[Pete in Lincs]

10 minutes ago, TonyW said:

It's worth another picture at any rate.

It certainly is. It has vibes of Art Deco to my eye. And all the better for it. The early Mustang is a work of art. 

[keefr22]

3 hours ago, Pete in Lincs said:

to my eye

 

 It makes my eyes go funny....  

 

Really though I think it looks pretty cool....

 

Keith

[TonyW]

Back on the Mustangs today see's a bit more done on the Blue Meanie.

 

Hood pins need making and although I haven't managed to make any today, I have learned how not to. I bought some .2 and .3 jewellery wire that has proved not big enough for the pins. The only other wire I had here was a bit too big a gauge. What I need is not too big and not too thin. Baby Bears wire!

 

 

Although a bit of ham fisted finger juggling can bend wire to something like the right shape, I'll be making a jig for the next batch, once the new wire arrives.

 

Although using a dab of Molotow ink to replicate the round plate of the hood pins worked, I've made new ones that are just that bit rounder. A piece of Bare Metal Foil was stuck on some thin paper and then rounds were punched out with the smallest punch I have. Picking up the round with a needle, dead centre, I then pushed the needle through the holes on the hood and secured the chrome circle with a dab of superglue. The white hood has one fitted. The slightly off centre one is a Molotow effort.

 

The panel beneath the trunk lid got painted in a subtly different blue. Something just didn't look right at the rear. This was an effort to sort that. I quite like it.

 

 

 

 

And to finish, a side view. What a beautiful shape the first fastback was.

The front end will sit a little lower once things are buttoned up. The chassis to body fit isn't the greatest.

 

 

Next up is the glass. The rear panel is OK. The windscreen isn't quite wide enough and the fit around the A post is poor. I'll be having a go at making my own glazing.

It's a bit involved as there's a subtle double curve going on front and rear. That's for later though.

 

More as it happens.

 

Tony.

 

 

[Spiny]

Those pins look really intricate and fiddly - sooner you than me making them but the end result is very good, even on the ones you've rejected. Mind you, the rest of the car doesn't look bad either...

[keefr22]

I well remember the eye strain (and swearing) that came with home made bonnet pins - are you trying to get them workable too? That was really fun...!!

 

Older (although maybe not wiser) I now rejoice when 3D printing brings us super fine, ready to glue ones...!! 🤣

 

I agree that the side view, in that colou color, on those wheels, is stunning! 

 

Keith

 

[TonyW]

I've done working pins in the past. A conversation piece at the model club at the time, but not the most durable of ideas. These ones, assuming I get to grips with them, will be fixed to the hoods in question. 

I'm also probably going to fix the hood shut as this build is turning more about the color and shape for me, rather than a detailfest.

I can get involved with engines and stuff later in the GB, the Revell Boss 302 would be a better starting point than this one for instance.

 

Here's a sole survivor hood pin effort, Monograms '69 Superbee. A twenty year old build now. The pins looked good while they lasted. A logical build for added hoodpins as the real deal had a lift off fibreglass hood. The pins, plates and wires and whatnots have fallen by the wayside over the years. Ho Hum, I'll get around to a bit of repair at some point.

 

 

[81-er]

That Superbee is stunning

 

James

[keefr22]

22 minutes ago, 81-er said:

That Superbee is stunning

 

James

 

What James said....!! Stunning indeed! 👍

 

I did a similar lift off bonnet (British car! ) on a replica model of one of my real Mk2 Escorts - the whole thing hs long gone, and it's one that I really must get around to doing again. But with dummy pins!

 

Keith

[nearsightedjohn]

Hi Tony,

I see what you mean about the too-narrow front glass on this Revell kit. When I did a quick test-fit, there seems to be about .02" - .03" space per side between glass and side frames on the body.  I thought about cutting this front window into three pieces and mounting the side separately but probably a suicidal idea with crack-happy clear styrene.  I'll either live with it or try using .005" - .010" thick clear styrene sheet stock cut to shape and bonded inside the body. 

 

I have been enjoying watching your build so far.  If I was ever blessed to own another 1:1 Mustang in my life, it would be in the shade of blue like your build here.

[TonyW]

I tried cutting the glass John. No joy. The side parts are just too thick to use and the screen still won't fit after cutting. I'll be having a go at resolving the issue today, I have three cars here, all needing screens so I had better get on with the job.

 

I use Overhead Projector Film when I can. It works really well for flat glass and single curvature stuff. A box lasts forever. It's incredibly clear and very thin. Downsides are that you need to remove the film on the plastic that enables pens to write on it. It comes off easily enough with warm soapy water. Then there's the curvature issue. It won't work on something like a '59 Impala screen! It won't stick with polystyrene glue either, or superglue. My solution is to make it a snap fit inside suitably thinned screen or door posts. Fiddly, but worth it when it works.

 

I've mocked up a piece for the Mustang and it looks like it might not work. Too much double curve going on. If not, I'll be digging out my heat gun and burning my fingers a bit while attempting to shape a good enough screen or two.

 

I'll report back with any progress later.

 

Tony..

[vppelt68]

I've learned to expect miracles from you Tony!

[TonyW]

I've made a couple of male plunge mould parts using air drying clay to back the kit front and rear clear parts. All very Henry Moore looking, I hope they get the job done. They should be dry enough tomorrow.

 

 

There's three different clear plastics shown in the picture. I'm hoping the thinnest will take a bit of heat induced curve to it. One way or another, I'll get the hang of making screens.

 

Here's the kit supplied rear glass in place. Not bad, and perfectly useable as is, if you don't mind the distortion at the corners. 

 

 

However. Trying the OHP Film in its place gives an idea how much improvement is possible. The film is crystal clear and a fraction of the thickness of the kit part.

 

 

The film won't follow the shape of the rear glass opening without going flat in the centre. I really hope I can get the film to give a bit to follow the double curve enough to be able to use it. I'll find out tomorrow!

[Six97s]

I've read that PET bottles are good for heat forming.   I need to have a go at some point, I have a '59 Buick with a cracked screen.

[vppelt68]

Those '59-'60 GM windshields must be on the top of the list of most difficult shapes ever.

[TonyW]

51 minutes ago, vppelt68 said:

Those '59-'60 GM windshields must be on the top of the list of most difficult shapes ever.

 

It's right up there. How about the Aurora though? Restored from a wreck by a mate, the hardest thing to recreate was the front screen. I have no idea how he did it.

 

https://www.andysaunders.net/aurora/

[vppelt68]

Edit: ...in mass produced automobiles

[Stef N.]

1 hour ago, TonyW said:

 

It's right up there. How about the Aurora though? Restored from a wreck by a mate, the hardest thing to recreate was the front screen. I have no idea how he did it.

 

https://www.andysaunders.net/aurora/

Blimey!! Designed by Homer Simpson.😀

[TonyW]

Today see's the screen moulding actually take place!

 

Here's how things went.

 

First up, clean off the tacky film from the OHP sheet. I should think it's possible to get OHP sheets without this layer, but I have a box of this stuff here and I'll make do for now. Bathroom cleaner and tissue got the stuff off easily.

 

 

Here's the film I'm using...

 

 

I then made a Hi Tec moulding frame. A couple of bits of stiff card with a postcard sized cuttout on each, with the OHP sheet clamped into it. I set this over a box to hold it steady and to give a bit of depth to mould into.

 

 

A Hot Air Gun was then fired downwards at the film, watching the reflections to see how the plastic behaved. You soon get the feel for when it's ready. It goes a bit wavy. Then I plunged the clay backed mould into the centre of the sheet, while still keeping the heat on. Once the mould has gone as deep as it needs, move the heat away and hold the part while it cools. The plastic tries to revert to flat if you don't let it cool.

The above picture shows attempt one. The plastic pulled back once I released downward pressure when it wasn't yet set.

 

 

 

The second attempt worked. I pushed the mould deeper and held it while it cooled.

 

Here's the first try out on a car body. I trimmed the new screen and taped it into place for the picture. The double curve is there and its all crystal clear.

 

Oh Happy Day!

 

 

The final thing will need closer trimming as the clear part needs to be butted right up tight to the windscreen frame.

 

 

The method works, and with the thinnest plastic sheet as well. I'm very happy indeed.

 

I'll wait until I can photograph a full beginning to end sequence and then post it in the Car section.

 

Tony.

[dbostream]

Happy to see it worked out well for you.

[Stef N.]

Thanks for that "how to" Tony. One that definitely may come in handy.👍

[Six97s]

That's a huge improvement over the kit "glass".

[keefr22]

Good job !!

 

Keith

[nearsightedjohn]

Tony, I’m really impressed with this replacement window technique. I can imagine using this on all auto kits to help diminish the “toy” look of thick injection molded clear windows.

Question on the “clay cores” you’re making: do they follow the contours of the underside surface of the kit supplied windows or are you making a female mold cavity of the outside kit window surfaces and casting your clay cores using these female cavities? It seems like your thin replacement windows would be undersized if they are formed to the insides of the kit windows. If you’re doing it this way, does it work because the thin replacement windows are just super flexible?