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1/72 Airfix Avro Vulcan B.2 **NEW TOOL** Andy


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Well after a 12 month wait she's finally here!  I've been wanting to build this for a long while so when I heard there was a new release I had to order.

 

Not too sure when I will start.  I really need to make some room, then decide, wheels up or down.  I will be building the camo version as opposed to the white look.

 

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Hi Andy, looking forward to your build :)

 

I'm sure I can speak for both of us in saying please feel free to pop into mine or @Adam Poultney's threads if you need any help with the build or aircraft details. We're both building the box art aircraft but in different time periods and configurations.

 

Adam's will be especially useful as he's done the research for the version you are building.

 

@general melchett's test build of the kit is also well worth looking at despite him having built a different aircraft.

 

Cheers,

 WV908

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7 minutes ago, WV908 said:

Hi Andy, looking forward to your build :)

 

I'm sure I can speak for both of us in saying please feel free to pop into mine or @Adam Poultney's threads if you need any help with the build or aircraft details. We're both building the box art aircraft but in different time periods and configurations.

 

Adam's will be especially useful as he's done the research for the version you are building.

 

@general melchett's test build of the kit is also well worth looking at despite him having built a different aircraft.

 

Cheers,

 WV908

Thanks, I'm sure I will need some assistance along the way as I'm still learning on every build. 👍

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Hi, can't wait to see you make a start on this one. The more Vulcans on this forum, the better. As @WV908has pointed out, I've already done the fairly in depth research for this scheme, and I don't think he mentioned that I researched an alternative scheme for XM594 c.1973 that can be applied with the kit decals so you can use the regular bomb bay if you want (might make it easier to mount on a stand if you go gear up). 

If you have any questions, I'm following this thread so just ask and I'll try my best to give you an answer.

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I've finally started!  My desk needed a remodel as I had less and less room to build anything.

 

cockpit started, first cockpit build in probably over 12 months.  Not going to spend too much time on this as none of it will be seen, but I will include all the required parts to complete.

 

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  • Andy350 changed the title to 1/72 Avro Vulcan B.2 **NEW TOOL**

So I've put together the cockpit and nose section, not much to show as mine is closed up.  Had to use a bit of filler as the nose cap had a slight lip, this can now cure while I continue with the fuselage.

 

I will be building this with undercarriage down, at first I thought about using the "Blue Steel" rocket, but I am really tempted to leave this off.  I am planning on having the bomb bay doors closed.

 

51308749501_28fa61d3dc_b.jpg

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As I was waiting on the nose section to cure I thought I would make a start on the fuselage.  I must say that the setup will make this a very sturdy model, it was a real enjoyment build the load bay and wing supports.  It's a shame that this will be hidden, but at least I know it will be here.  Everything here went together really well.

 

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Time for the Dremel!!!

 

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Then decided the smaller add on would be better

 

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Came up well, ready for the "Blue Steel" housing.

 

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All went in really well, to be expected.  Ready for the undercarriage bays and intakes.

 

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On 09/07/2021 at 17:08, Adam Poultney said:

Hi, can't wait to see you make a start on this one. The more Vulcans on this forum, the better. As @WV908has pointed out, I've already done the fairly in depth research for this scheme, and I don't think he mentioned that I researched an alternative scheme for XM594 c.1973 that can be applied with the kit decals so you can use the regular bomb bay if you want (might make it easier to mount on a stand if you go gear up). 

If you have any questions, I'm following this thread so just ask and I'll try my best to give you an answer.

Hi Adam, I had a good read of your posts, very interesting and in-depth, as you can see I know very little about this one.  I did find your points about removing the nose lines useful. 👍 

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Can someone that has built this scale please advise on painting.  I need to pickup the paints but not sure what and how many to get.  It seems that you can now buy the 14ml pots, the larger 50ml ones plus the droppers.  I've used the 14ml Humbrol acrylics before with the acrylic thinner, if I use the enamel should I be using enamel thinner?

 

Also, it asks for 63 Matt Ochre, but the Airfix site does not list this colour.  Is this a Radome colour?

 

These are the near matches from the Airfix site.

 

No 103 Cream - Matt - Tinlet No 1 (14ml)

No 154 Insignia Yellow - Matt - Tinlet No 1 (14ml)

No 24 Trainer Yellow - Matt -14ml Acrylic plus

 

Looks like I made the first balls up, when I fitted the weights to the nose i must have rushed and mixed up the step No with the weight.  So part No 16 now has 16grms in the nose and not the suggested 40grms.  Not sure what to do, maybe drill a whole through the underside drop in some weights and fill????

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Well I thought this was going too well.

 

drilled a large hole big enough to inject some glue to stop the lead shot from moving around.  Will fix with plastic putty and sand.

 

51310920983_0637bc926a_c.jpg

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9 hours ago, Andy350 said:

Can someone that has built this scale please advise on painting.  I need to pickup the paints but not sure what and how many to get.  It seems that you can now buy the 14ml pots, the larger 50ml ones plus the droppers.  I've used the 14ml Humbrol acrylics before with the acrylic thinner, if I use the enamel should I be using enamel thinner?

 

Also, it asks for 63 Matt Ochre, but the Airfix site does not list this colour.  Is this a Radome colour?

 

These are the near matches from the Airfix site.

 

No 103 Cream - Matt - Tinlet No 1 (14ml)

No 154 Insignia Yellow - Matt - Tinlet No 1 (14ml)

No 24 Trainer Yellow - Matt -14ml Acrylic plus

 

Looks like I made the first balls up, when I fitted the weights to the nose i must have rushed and mixed up the step No with the weight.  So part No 16 now has 16grms in the nose and not the suggested 40grms.  Not sure what to do, maybe drill a whole through the underside drop in some weights and fill????

Try looking here for an equivelant paint

 

http://www.ipmsstockholm.org/colorcharts/colorcharts_2.asp

 

Gondor

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At the stage where I will be requiring some painting before the next stage of assembly.  Bit unsure at this point, need to prime, paint the white on the intakes, before using the template.  Any advice more than welcomed here!

 

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Pre-fit seems very good so no issues here.

 

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Waiting on some primer, and some No 130.  Thought I would address the messy nose (due to my own lack of skills this seems to a common area for me)  Have a few join lines that I need to remove.

 

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Hmmm, cockpit won't close down, I wonder what the problem is 🤨

 

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Yep, the seat were not lower enough, they won't come out that well.

 

At least I will have the room to make the cockpit area a little nicer.

 

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Fitting the seats back in might be a challenge.

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16 minutes ago, Adam Poultney said:

I imagine your canopy problems come from the seats not being properly fitted. You need to remove quite a bit of material from the tabs to get a good fit

 

I was too trusting that when the seats went in they were in the right place, should have done a proper test fit.

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4 minutes ago, Andy350 said:

 

I was too trusting that when the seats went in they were in the right place, should have done a proper test fit.

I only caught this on mine with a test fit and proper look at the joints

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Can anyone advise the best way to mask the cockpit please.  I tried all sorts before, and this is an area that I have struggled with before.  A pre-cut mask kit would be ideal as these have given me the best results.  Need to get this right as it will standout of terrible.

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4 hours ago, Andy350 said:

Can anyone advise the best way to mask the cockpit please.  I tried all sorts before, and this is an area that I have struggled with before.  A pre-cut mask kit would be ideal as these have given me the best results.  Need to get this right as it will standout of terrible.

If you can do your own masks, probably save you some pounds, but the pre-cut ones are generally good, most modellers I have seen spray the interior colour first on the outside, although with 1/72 spraying on the primer when you have positioned the masks is good enough, I always tend to run a clear varnish such as Johnsons Klear around the edge of the mask before painting or spraying as this prevents paint creep underneath the mask

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44 minutes ago, kev67 said:

If you can do your own masks, probably save you some pounds, but the pre-cut ones are generally good, most modellers I have seen spray the interior colour first on the outside, although with 1/72 spraying on the primer when you have positioned the masks is good enough, I always tend to run a clear varnish such as Johnsons Klear around the edge of the mask before painting or spraying as this prevents paint creep underneath the mask

Hi Kev.  Good advice about the Klear, I've not seen this anywhere.  Could I use a clear coat varnish for the same effect?  I've ordered some new surgical blades which should help with cutting the masks. 

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Painted the inner parts of the intakes.  I've used Humbrol 130 enamel.  I need to be patient on this and wait at least 24 hours before masking and applying the camo.

 

A bit of an after thought, I'm going to have to fill in the joins for the inner divider (have no idea what this bit is called)

 

51315773459_3556dea3f3_b.jpg

 

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Thinking very far ahead but, I was thinking of creating a tarmac section to keep this on, then I got to think about a basic diorama for this.  Maybe to keep in a case.  Found this which gives me some inspiration.  Maybe I will wait and see how the build goes first.

 

 

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4 hours ago, Andy350 said:

Hi Kev.  Good advice about the Klear, I've not seen this anywhere.  Could I use a clear coat varnish for the same effect?  I've ordered some new surgical blades which should help with cutting the masks. 

Any thing that is clear will do 

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