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"The Destroyer of Miracle"- IJN 1/700 Yukikaze, Operation "Ten-Ichi-Go", April 1945


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Hi Mates

 

This is the third work I completed this year (the second ship).

Construction started on May 3 and completed by the beginning of July. 

 

Kit: Pit-Road Flyhawk W213C 1/700 Kagero-class destroyer (new version) The completed state was transformed into the 1945 state

Aftermarket parts:
Five-star deluxe set (for Pit-Road old version kit)
Sea soul deluxe set(for Fujimi, Pit-Road old version kit)
Star model resin kit(only etching sheet used)
Sea soul, five-star, rainbow, and Yongxin all kinds of general etching sheets/3D printing
Northstar 1/700 3D printed sailor figures

 

When I visited Flyhawk in late June, I received a set of official deluxe PE/metal parts set for Kagero, but unfortunately I was almost finished by then, and the set was designed for Kagero early stage, so I didn't use it in the end.
If you want to do the early version Kagero class, I strongly recommend waiting for this set of super set, the coverage is quite comprehensive, and one set is satisfactory.
(Poor my purse. I bought so many general-purpose pieces and I don't know by when I will used them up......)

 

The figures are painted in the gray-green Type 3 uniform of the late war. In addition, in order to highlight the feeling of dead end at the end of the war, a lot of messy supply boxes and the like were added on the ship.
IJN ships are all mouse-grey, and the deck is also brown, so it could look quite dark and ugly indeed.

So we must add some elements of different colors to enrich the visual effect.
The signal flag is the JZGA combination, which is the name of Yukikaze.

 

Flyhawk kit detail is as excellent as ever, and the fitting is also very good.

The boss of Flyhawk said that the anti-slip pattern was actually more delicate at the beginning, but Pit-Road strongly urged to change the size and thickness, which I personally think such a waste!
But despite this, the various relief effects are still pass, there is no need to shovel and change PE, and some reliefs are even better than PE details.

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The painting of Yukikaze during the operation "Ten-Ichi-Go" refers to the paintings of IJN master, artist Yukio Mizuno, which was published on the cover of the 45th issue of the Pacific War History series "The Real Ship History of the Imperial Navy" by Gakken.
When Yukikaze escorted Yamato Special Attack, she was the only ship that did not paint the Kissui Emblem on the chimney, but retained the original triangle logo, and the second chimney was painted with two white lines symbolizing the Second Mine Team.
The reason is that the Captain Terauchi hoped to return to base safely as usual, which is also a silent protest against the special attack itself.

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Edited by haneto
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Some details.

 

This time I tried to use Evergreen's 0.13mm clear plastic sheet to reproduce the bridge windows, which looks more refined than a simple etched window frame.

At the same time, the smooth surface of the transparent plastic sheet is closer to the texture of glass, unlike white glue which after drying the transparency is too crooked and distorted.

 

The turret and the torpedo launcher are fixed to the deck with 2mm miniature magnets, which can be rotated very smoothly, but not too loose to fix the angle.

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Edited by haneto
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The custom-made lifting wooden base, with the nameplate, can enhance the presence and sense of luxury of the small destroyer.

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Edited by haneto
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This is the same Kagero-class destroyer, Hamakaze which I built back to 2004.
It is the Aoshima 1/700 "Deluxe Edition" kit, with a very tasteless stainless steel etching film-but there were almost no domestic brand etching parts in those years in China, and imported etching parts were rare and expensive, and they were definitely luxury products to us.

Today I overturned the ship model I built 17 years ago, repaired it (it was smashed by myself a few years ago), and put it together to take a photo to memorize the 17 years revolution in ship model building.

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Finish.

Thanks for watching!
(The ship of World War II is too tiring, next time I will change to a modern ship...)

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Gidday Haneto, these are both extremely good models I think, even the first done seventeen years ago. I think the comparison of the two, showing early and late war versions of the ship is very interesting. Also, that is a clever use of the magnets.

     And I agree with Norseman above. Regards, Jeff.

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That is truly stunning work.

 

I'm dumbfounded and would have readily believed it was an amazingly detailed 1/350 model, if not larger.

 

What did you use for rigging? How did you achieve the catenary on the antenna and other rigging?

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Fantastic work - very well done indeed. If not for the diamond plating detail moulded into the kit deck, you could claim this was 1/350 and only the photograph with your hand would make anyone believe any different - and it would be a very well executed model at twice the size.

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Thank you all for your nice comment and encouragement!

To be honest, it was unimaginable to archive this result back to say 10 years ago.

Really thanks to so many ship modelling accessories now available by Chinese domestic brands, AND more importantly they are CHEAP.

A deluxe super set including PE, resin parts and metal parts for a 1/700 destroyer is around 10-12 pounds here in China.

So if you have a chance to visit(hope the board will be re-opened soon), do grab as many as you can. :) 

 

On 7/6/2021 at 9:40 PM, dnl42 said:

That is truly stunning work.

 

I'm dumbfounded and would have readily believed it was an amazingly detailed 1/350 model, if not larger.

 

What did you use for rigging? How did you achieve the catenary on the antenna and other rigging?

Talking about the rigging, sorry I forgot to mention that I used the Modelkasten metal rigging 0.047mm.

I think it's the champion among all similar products: accurate diameter, very fine texture, easy to cut/glue, difficult to distort, etc.

I highly recommend it to any ship model builders.

 

As for the catenary, it was same metal rigging by jelly type CA glue, you need to hold it for 5-6 seconds by a tweezer so that the angle will be fixed.

For those on tunnel, I used fatter metal rigging 0.06mm. Drilling a small hole say 0.15mm on the tunnel surface will help you to glue the catenary into it more easily.

Nothing special but a little patience indeed.

 

I may update some in progress pictures later which might be helpful. :)

 

Have a nice weekend!

 

Yufei

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Great work, it needs the hand next to it as otherwise I wouldnt believe this was 1/700. Also love the 17 year progress photo, we seem quite spoilt these days, but even with that, you've completely smashed that build (and the older one). Would love a wip of your next (ww2) subject. And soon!

 

David

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I will have to agree with everyone. This is an outstanding piece of work,Without your hand to show scale I would have thought it was a much bigger ship.Well DONE Sir!

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