Sd.Kfz.9 & Sd.Ah.115

[dov]

Thank you!

I built some recovery tanks too. They are underestimated. Great challenge too. If you get a good plastic kit for the 116 trailer and maybe the cran, the 100 too.

The supply and maintenance of tanks is an interesting field.

Happy modelling 

[dov]

To add: Just on my recent HB kit, the Sd.Kfz.6:

In comparison to Dragon (my 251 was one), HB is molding more detail, specially for attachment areas.

So you know definitly where to place, in which direction to place.

Just a detail, which may cause some headache, otherwise.

The building of a clean halftrack, is to me like building an aircarft without payload.

So, you can see the shape. Like a lady in a bikini.

Happy modelling

[NIK122]

Good evening all. Well it's been a while but I've not been idle. I've been pugging away at this kit almost on a daily basses. With 24 individually painted and weathered road wheels and idlers, the sprockets and front wheels and two sets of 47 link tracks consisting of 188 parts its been a mammoth task. There is still a little more weathering to do and a coat of matt to apply but here are some shots.  Sorry about the quality of photography. I really need to get the hang of getting everything in focus.

Below is a comparison shot of the kit front wheels next to the DefModel weighted resin offerings. The central piece from the kit just needs the pin on the back removing before being attached. I also needed to drill out the back of the hub to accept the axel.

The finished wheels on the model. The axel stub length needed shortening before gluing. I've used AK light dust deposit wash to them. The engine has had a little weathering but not too much as only the sides will be visible when the kits finished. The rust effect on the manifolds was created using AK track rust pigment. 

The tracks were a bore to build but I enjoyed painting them more than I thought I would. The paint was Tamiya gun metal followed by AK track rust pigment. The rubber blocks were picked out in matt black by hand. This was all then sealed in with clear matt varnish and finished with a thin application on light dust wash.

The AK German panzer grey modulation set was used for the Dunkelgrau but I excluded the darkest and lightest of the six tones. I did drybrush the lightest colour on the road wheel details but I'm not convinced it shows after the light dust wash.

The only problem that I encountered was the instructions for the length of the winch cable. I think it was supposed to be cut to 40cm which seemed far too long. I opted for 20cm but regretted it after it was painted and applied as it just didn't fill up the spool. In the end I wrapped plasticard around the drum and then attached the cable rather than cut and paint more cord. 

Finally a shot of the rear. The winch selector handle was added with fuse wire. There are some photos of a restored FAMO online which show the handles painted red. Is this period correct? I have painted them red anyway as I think it gives some additional interest to this area. 

Feel free to ask any questions and as always thank you for looking

[vytautas]

Looks really good. I like the colors

 

Vytautas

[Lazy Modeller]

Its getting really nice! I simply love those half-trucks...

Cheers

LM

 

[NIK122]

Good morning. It's full steam ahead at the moment after a couple of days spent unexpectedly at home. I'm waiting on a set of accessory hand tools for the crew cab at the moment so I've been concentrating on the fire wall and engine bay. The fire wall has a lot of missing details that I've had a go at creating with a mix of fuse wire, Aber photo etch, sprew and spares. I've focused on adding what will be seen through the open engine covers on completion. This area, as you can see, has a lot going on that the kit sadly doesn't offer. 

 

The choice of fuse wire was a little heavy I think but there is no going back now. The device below is connected to the oil separator for the airbrake, which is located to the left of the steering column. I'm not sure what it does but there are plenty of reference pictures for it available. According to Aber if you are lucky enough to have a copy of Nuts n Bolts Vol12, then I believe there maybe scale drawings of it available.  

The oil separator, bottom left. There are a couple of etch details still to add to it and some other details can be seen ie the suppressor and fuel valve bracket according to Nuts n Bolts 43.  

Painting the engine bay was always going to be a problem if following the instructions. Thankfully I didn't glue the engine in as it's impossible to fit the engine deck and mud guard piece with the engine in situe with out slightly twisting it. With a lot of dry fitting and testing I opted for gluing the fire wall, engine deck, lower engine side panels and radiator together avoiding the instructions. This leaves an assembly that can be painted and then masked easily at a later date. The hood taped in place for fit and square helps with taking this route.

The radiator with photo etch dry fitted.

The whole assembly can be dropped into place as one piece with a little care.

Here is where I did hit a snag. The engine drops into place beautifully without the radiator in the way but not with it. The engine thankfully does still fit without force, although unceremoniously.

Finally with the above in place I've added this linkage which (it's a guess), controls track braking when steering? Some problems fitting this as I cut a corner with the triangular fire wall bracing. I made it straight rather than the complex series of shapes that it is to fit around the link. Again this was made with spares and Aber photo etch.

That's it for now. Hopefully next time the engine bay will be painted and there will be something to show in the crew cab. Thanks for looking

[Ned]

This is looking really nice so far. I like your engine bay detailing.

Are you still looking for a Dragon Bison? Hobbylink Japan sent me an email saying they were back in stock and I almost ordered one, but when I got round to it 2 days later they'd already run out again. I've pre-bought one now so I'll get one if any more turn up.

[Maginot]

Looking very good. Great finish on the tracks and chasis.

[NIK122]

1 hour ago, Ned said:

This is looking really nice so far. I like your engine bay detailing.

Are you still looking for a Dragon Bison? Hobbylink Japan sent me an email saying they were back in stock and I almost ordered one, but when I got round to it 2 days later they'd already run out again. I've pre-bought one now so I'll get one if any more turn up.

Thank you for the kind words Ned. I have got a Bison 1 for the trailer. It took some patience and a little more than I would have liked to spend. That being said the kit is exceptionally detailed. I've purchased all sorts of AM for the tractor and trailer but the Bison 1 will build straight from the box. Stay tuned. 

[NIK122]

Good morning and bon weekend all. Continuing from where I last left off here are some shots of the last additions to the engine bay and it painted and dry fitted to the chassis.

The model provides this structure below to sit the air filter on. For a Tamiya kit the positioning of it is very vague. The vertical part is too short for the shelf to fit on top of the tab on the side wall of the engine compartment and too long for it to fit below. As the air filter sits too high in the engine bay I trimmed the part to be fixed under the tab as shown.

The air filter below still sat too high in the engine bay so about 3mm was removed from the bottom of it. With the additional detail added to the fire wall the air filter hose provided with the kit was no good and after trying to change its shape was binned. I've instead used electrical wire sheathing with some fuse wire inside it to help keep its shape. The give in using something flexible helped enormously with fitting the filter to the shelf. Additional detail added to the hinges to beef them up and two Aber wing nuts finish it off. Reference picture below. 

The air filter in position. This required removing the photo etch fire extinguisher mount that I had added before which after a closer look at period photos wasn't there anyway. Annoyingly trying to clean up the super glue residue from the fire wall was difficult.  

Finally painting. A little modulation, oils and light dust wash. Thankfully the damage caused by the super glue on the fire wall isn't too obvious.

Last but not least the radiator hoses were added using Wave A springs from a previous M.ak model project. I confess that I nearly lost the will to live doing this. It was incredibly fiddly and the whole front section will require a light clamp to marry it to the chassis. A point of note is that the hoses aren't ribbed in reality but once the bonnet is added I think I can live with it. Also, with the attachment points molded on the engine and radiator why could Tamiya not of provided the hoses? 

Well that is it for now. Thanks for looking

Edited November 20, 2021 by NIK122

[NIK122]

Hi all. Just a short update whilst I'm waiting for bits and pieces in the post. The flat bed is coming together but as there is little to show in mods here's a little that's been done to the tailgate. I had a choice of ladders from Aber and the Royal model aftermarket sets and I've gone with the Royal model set. Both sets offer two ladders. Maybe they know something I don't but I can only find images with one ladder on the tailgate so this is what I've gone with. Reference below. I think this shows a later model as there are no pressed crosses in the sheet metal and its possibly why there is only one ladder. Later war resource shortages? This may explain why there is the rectangular frame added to strengthen the tailgate that isn't provided in the kit. I thought about adding it but have chosen not to.

Hinges formed around a dress making pin.

The completed ladder extended. It would have been nice if the step folded out but where do you draw the line?

And folded. A spare etch foot pedal was used for the tread plate. 

Thanks for looking

 

Well I think it's time for some new glasses! Please ignore my musings on tailgate ladders from earlier in this post. I've looked through my reference material hundreds of times and ignored the obvious colour image that settles the question. Sometimes you can't see for looking it would seem. I've got some work to do!

 

Edited November 22, 2021 by NIK122

[NIK122]

Hello. A little late but Happy new year. Its been a while since posting as life has got in the way. I'm at home at the moment self isolating and recovering from Covid. Thankfully I didn't get it bad and if every cloud has a silver lining its meant uninterrupted bench time, so here goes......  

Picking up where I left off here are some pictures of the flat bed.

There has been a load of additional details added with the lions share of the time spent on the tail gate and tarpaulin frames. The photo etch chains were a right royal pain and I think it will be the last time I attempt using such things. Knowing where to draw the line with some details is something to work on in the future I think.

The tarpaulin frames really needed handling with kid gloves during clean up and the photoetch brackets from ABER were so fiddly to assemble I binned them and scratch made them from spare pieces of metal bent on a jig in one piece. Stretched sprue was added for hinge detail.

I have no idea what these brackets are for. Any suggestions welcome. They are clearly visible in photos of surviving examples of the vehicle in the Nuts n Bolts reference book. The radius is just about perfect to hold a road wheel rim but it would be unusual to carry a single rim without tyre when there is a spare stored under the vehicle?  

If these fixings survive painting and assembly I will be happy. I had to add them as one was unfortunately broken on the sprue.

The reference picture I am using for the build shows the rear foldable part of the mud guards removed so I've left them off and placed the rear light in the alternative position which is accurate on some vehicles. The support brackets have been sanded down to thin them rather than using etch. 

Moving on to the cab. I've added the missing pioneer tools from a Royal model accessory set and Aber photo etch.

The clamps are from T-Rex studio productions. Highly recommended. Long live 3D printing!

I had to cut the backs off the clamps for these tools to get them to fit but you can't tell once installed. Painting the pioneer tools isn't going to be easy but for these at least they are accessible.

The brackets for the cab roof frame have been improved by cutting a slot with a razor saw and adding stretched sprue for bolt detail.

Finally some details to the air vents on the bonnet. 

That is it for now. I'm going to clean and prime these parts today so hopefully by the end of the week there will be more to show. As always thank you for looking 

 

[edjbartos]

Very nice build, I have just gone through the whole thread as I have somehow missed this previously. You have made some lovely additions along with a nice clean build. I'm looking forward to seeing some more especially with paint on..

 

Ed

[Lazy Modeller]

This is getting a tremendous jewelry job! I have the Tamiya variant that was really expensive, but think only will do it much in the future.

Cheers

LM

Edited January 17, 2022 by Lazy Modeller

[Lazy Modeller]

This is getting a tremendous jewelry job! I have the Tamiya variant that was really expensive, but think only will do it much in the future.

Cheers

LM

Edited January 17, 2022 by Lazy Modeller

[Lummox]

On 1/17/2022 at 10:29 AM, NIK122 said:

The clamps are from T-Rex studio productions. Highly recommended. Long live 3D printing!

 

Interesting. I've been wondering about these 3D printed clasps for a while Nik. At your recommendation I'll think I'll be giving them a go (anything to avoid the frustration of the hateful etch versions!)

 

Loving your work by the way - the additional detail really makes a difference, it's looking uber cool 👍

 

Paul.

[NIK122]

2 hours ago, Lummox said:

Interesting. I've been wondering about these 3D printed clasps for a while Nik. At your recommendation I'll think I'll be giving them a go (anything to avoid the frustration of the hateful etch versions!)

 

Loving your work by the way - the additional detail really makes a difference, it's looking uber cool 👍

 

Paul.

Thanks Paul. The clamp set is excellent value. There are x4 sizes, x16 of each open and closed. I had a little trouble fitting the pommel of the long shovel through the opening but it did go without cutting the clamp. I totally agree about trying to build photoetch clamps. My eyesight and slightly shaky hands are not up to the task

[NIK122]

Allo. Onwards. So some more has been done on this mammoth project. It's been going on for seven months now and I'm keen to get this kit done. I may well put this project aside and build something else for a break once the Famo is done. Stay posted for a British ARV. 

There were a couple of details to add before primer, starting with the head lights and Notek. The Notek is from Royal model with Aber photoetch.

After saying I wouldn't use photoetch chain again I couldn't help myself and leave off this small detail. Padlock fitted to the spare tyre holder.

The side panels for the engine compartment have molded on handles which is a shame as it means the handles are permanently in the locked position. A little scalpel surgery fixed this as the plan is to have the panels removed and stowed in the flat bed. As I was feeling lazy I only did one panel. They will be placed one on top of the other.

 

There were a couple of issues to fix after primer. Two obvious seams not sanded enough during construction.

And messy application of super glue that needed removing with 600grit Tamiya sponge pad. 

Some pre shading. Still trying to get to grips with this method. Either I'm not thinning the paint enough in later stages or just applying too much paint.

Once the colour modulation was done some small details and tools have been picked out by brush. 

I have used enamels for the brush work because using acrylics I find is a nightmare. If anyone can recommend a brush friendly acrylic range it would be appreciated. 

The colour the wooden handles have been painted is to act as a base that oils will be added to once a clear coat has been applied.

I wanted to show the dash with the central binnacle added but I've had a mini disaster with this and had to strip it of paint and start again. Next time. The decals on the dash board are from Alliance model works. In hindsight I should have sanded the raised plaques as the sizes didn't match all of the decals. I don't think the decal second from the right is correct but it was a good match for the raised plaque below. If anyone can read it then it probably says where it should go.

Finally some shots of the model dry fitted before I break it down to clear coat it all before weathering.

 

Thanks for looking

 

[Lazy Modeller]

You are doing an excellent job! The painting is also very well done! I've already got a chair to watch!

Cheers

LM

[edjbartos]

This is one amazing model, really looking forward to seeing it after it’s been weathered...

 

Ed

[vytautas]

Looks very nice. The front of the cab looks particularly good with nameplates and other details.

 

On 20.01.2022 at 20:41, NIK122 said:

If anyone can recommend a brush friendly acrylic range it would be appreciated. 

For brush, I use Revell water-based acrylic paint. They are thick, so they are good for a wet palette, cover well, and are cheaper than others (in Lithuania).

 

Vytautas

Edited January 21, 2022 by vytautas

[fittedkitchens]

That's a great eye for detail. as others have commented, the 3D clamps might be less frustrating than trying to bend 9and not lose)  micro-etch.

 

As for acrylics, I find that Humbrol acrylics work really well for brush painting of small items, tank wheel rubber, tyres etc... Dark Earth (29) and Tank Grey (67) are both great, but need a couple of drops of water added to whatever you use to get it flowing nicely. easier than tamiya, for example, though I love Tamiya for airbrushing.

[NIK122]

Hello and bon weekend. I've been plodding on so here are the results. The dash board binnacle has been rescued and installed. Below is a shot of the kit part and the Aber replacement. In hindsight I should have drilled out the binnacles and thinned the piece out but you live and learn. 

I've removed the raised detail and fixed it to the photo etch and sanded flat the kit piece.

Installed on the dash with decals. I'll add gloss varnish to the dials or I think there is a product for this but I don't know what its called off hand. Switches picked out with enamel flat black. Of note is the beige strip between the bonnet and cab which on the real vehicle was made of canvas. 

I've had a change of heart with this project and decided to press on with building the trailer as compared with the Famo its a straight forward build. It means that I can size the base for the finished models and start to think about the display. 

The Das Werk kit is a mixed bag compared with the Tamiya Famo. The detail isn't great and there have been some minor fit issues. My biggest gripe is the shear number of sprue gates on every part which I think is excessive and requires a lot more clean up than I would like. This brings me onto the 'Custom Scale' upgrade set which is also a mixed bag. The set includes a raft of missing details for the trailer but half of the parts are badly cast with air bubbles spoiling some finely made and impossible to repair details. I have opted to use what I can and make remake the rest using the resin pieces as reference. Below is the assembled leaf spring front bogie, axel and missing compressed air tank parts and brake actuator.

And assembled

Next are the rear mud guards. Some fit issues here and I recommend that the vertical, inverted T shaped reinforcing rib is only glued at the top at first to help with alignment with the lower pieces. Some filling was needed afterwards.

The mounts for the rear axel jacks. The resin parts are cast copies of the kit parts with bolt detail added. As air bubbles had resulted in some bolt detail not casting I opted to just add the detail to the kit parts.

Another fit issue was the mud guard bracket (immediately to the left of the stub axel. This needs gluing on after the jack mount or the jack mount won't fit.

The finished assembly with additional handle and bracket detail. Again the resin parts had missing detail due to air bubbles. Whether this is due to bad casting or that the detail is too fine I don't know.

Finally a shot of the central frame assembled to give an idea of scale when compared with the Famo.

As always thanks for looking

 

[NIK122]

Good evening. Some more of my modeling and musings. Thanks to everyone who comments and those of you who just take a look.

So this time I've been tinkering with the trailer some more. The Das Werk kit and after market have thrown up some problems that after researching a little need working on. The lay out of the jack, winch, tool box and 'cable roller guides'? don't appear to be correct. Below is the kits layout and a photo of the real thing.

As you can see the tool box is larger than the winch housing and both are slightly further back. There should also be a space between the tool box and winch to allow a cable to be run from the towing vehicle if equipped with one. The jack is mounted on the cross member of the trailer and not on the timber bed. There is a letterbox slot under it for a towing cable to pass through.

Here you can see the channel between the boxes to the rollers. The winch on the trailer is manually operated with a crank handle so I can see the benefit of a powered winch on the towing vehicle. The rollers the cable runs through are provided with the kit but are in a rectangular housing when as you can see they are in between two triangular brackets.

The 'Custom Scale' after market includes the roller housing in resin and a reworked winch. I mocked up these parts below and well...........

The more I looked at this the more wildly over sized the winch and roller housing look. They are way too tall. There would be no clearance for a transported vehicle.

The jack is missing in this shot but if it was fitted I'm going to hazard a guess that the top of the jack would be in between the height of the tool box and winch.

I've decided to use the kit winch and modify the resin rollers. The modification was straight forward enough if not a little annoying after shelling out for the resin parts. Below the part marked up to be cut. The height will be reduced by 4mm.

 

Cut down with the top saved to reattach.

And dry fitted with the horizontal roller lowered. There is some bolt detail to add and a little refining but I'm happy that it looks more in proportion. The winch needs moving to the right.

Reference for the mod.

Thanks for looking

[Pete in Lincs]

I just did a huge catch up on this build. You're putting an amazing amount of detail into it, the end result should really shine!

With the radiator hoses you mentioned a previous Ma.k build. If the detail is as good as this one I'd love to see it.

Any chance you'll have time to put it into the Sci Fi RFI section?