ArnoldAmbrose Posted July 9, 2021 Share Posted July 9, 2021 Gidday Guy, you've got a mammoth project ahead of you with this. It should be interesting. Regarding the wood deck, at that price I think you have the right to expect a pristine product. I'm looking forward to seeing the build. Regards, Jeff. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gisbod Posted July 9, 2021 Author Share Posted July 9, 2021 (edited) Thanks Terry, John, Pascal & Jeff, @Iceman 29 Pascal, Some great photos there. Can I ask what the tender/ship is that’s being unloaded? Very nice. Having already bought the Trumpeter/ I Love Kit/ Pontos set, realistically, I’m not going to spend another £200 on the aftermarket to effectively, get some decals and the cockpit. I’ll at least wait and see what the detail set adds. I could probably manage to scratch something for the cockpit, but I will be at a loss for the decals. I’ve got a friend who makes paint masks, but I think it may be a little much asking for them in 1/200 scale! I don’t suppose you’ve any left over Pascal? I’m only planning on making the two Arados. Did you use those chain railings? They look awfully fiddly! Guy Edited July 9, 2021 by Gisbod Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gisbod Posted July 9, 2021 Author Share Posted July 9, 2021 Ps Pascal, What colour did you use for the superstructure? Guy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
S-boat 55 Posted July 9, 2021 Share Posted July 9, 2021 (edited) Hi Guy/all, With the discussion re colours i thought this might be of some use, as mentioned I've a 1/350 Bissy to do at some point so invested in a set of Sovereign hobbies paints for her as they are widely held in high esteem for accuracy and usability. They spray the tops of the tinlets with the colour from that batch so literally what you get on the tin is what you get, Obviously the issue with all of this is my phone cam has changed the colour a little on some but not much on others and the set up of the screen your looking at this on will change it as well. I have two screens for work and looking at the same photo on each there is a bit of a difference but hopefully this is of use but there could be a pinch of salt to add. The colour for the antifouling changed the most so I wont add that image. Top right is the turret top grey - this has been lightened by my cam and screen, I'll try another photo when I test it on a bit of spare, Top left is the superstructure Hellgrau 50, which is slightly darker on screen than in person Middle is Hellgrau 51 for the hull sides, a little richer in person Bottom is ..wait for it schiffbodenfarbe III Grau 1 - for the boot topping/waterline which ever you feel to call it, The interesting bit is when taking a B/W photo of the super structure paints they come out about bang on some of the photos of the ship, As ever a change of angle, backing and light and they change colour; here hellgrau 51 and 50 are probably closer to in person but the outer two less so and bare little resemblance to the tin lid, I brush paint and I'm guessing at 1/200 you'll airbrush, but from what little I've used so far they go on very nicely by hand, I'll certainly get more, Hope this helps Sam Edited July 9, 2021 by S-boat 55 1 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gisbod Posted July 9, 2021 Author Share Posted July 9, 2021 That’s super helpful! Thanks Sam. That’s changed my mind re the Hellgrau 50, it looks so much lighter than the website shows. It just looked so dark to me, but it doesn’t there! Thanks for taking the time to photograph. Much appreciated. Guy 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gisbod Posted July 9, 2021 Author Share Posted July 9, 2021 Here you go… @Jamie @ Sovereign Hobbies Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Iceman 29 Posted July 9, 2021 Share Posted July 9, 2021 1 hour ago, Gisbod said: Ps Pascal, Quelle couleur as-tu utilisé pour la superstructure ? Mec It's not going to help you much, I used RAL 7000 and 7001 matte body paint cans as advised "Anatomy of the Ship The Battleship Bismarck, Jack Brower" book, it was an experiment, hopefully compatible with enamel for some touch-up. I'm not too focused on the colors at the end, because it's too complicated. It's a crazy finish. I concentrated on the construction and the details, the scenery, which is very long. I pretty much agree with that: Quote S-boat 55 said: ...Reason I mention it is that it has the various colour schemes she wore, I've not checked them against photographs, but in my opinion as her make up changed almost from day to day during her one sortie that you can legitimatly argue just about any scheme or mix thereof could be argued as correct, plus unless photos can be pinpointed to an exact time they can themselves be misleading, 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Iceman 29 Posted July 9, 2021 Share Posted July 9, 2021 As you can see the difference is small between 7001 and 7000: You can enter the RGB value in a drawing or photo program to compare directly. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gisbod Posted July 9, 2021 Author Share Posted July 9, 2021 Thanks Pascal, But that looks dark again, I think it just must be something in the way the computer renders it. I’m going to stick to Jamie’s Bismarck set - it looks perfect in Sam’s photos (particularly in the black and white one). My only concern now is the huge area to cover with a teeny airbrush. You don’t sell them in rattle cans do you?! Guy 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Iceman 29 Posted July 9, 2021 Share Posted July 9, 2021 It's much clearer than it looks in real life. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adm Lord De Univers Posted July 10, 2021 Share Posted July 10, 2021 On 09/07/2021 at 09:50, Gisbod said: so just to be sure, I gave her a bath… Looks like you need a bigger bath! Especially if you ever plan to get in for some playtime as well. David 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Richard E Posted July 10, 2021 Share Posted July 10, 2021 20 minutes ago, Adm Lord De Univers said: Looks like you need a bigger bath No, just a 1/200 scale Grimstadfjorden On 7/8/2021 at 11:21 AM, Gisbod said: This looks like it's going to be an epic project Guy. 1 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kevin Aris Posted July 10, 2021 Share Posted July 10, 2021 that deck looks fantastic, hope they resolve the matter for you Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArnoldAmbrose Posted July 11, 2021 Share Posted July 11, 2021 17 hours ago, Richard E said: No, just a 1/200 scale Grimstadfjorden That would be a ginormous diorama! Regards, Jeff. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gisbod Posted July 11, 2021 Author Share Posted July 11, 2021 I’ve actually made a start, Hull up first. There’s a cut out at the front of the bow. Not ideal, I presume it’s a moulding restriction? I always find it hard to totally eliminate a large seam. I’ve given it a quick spray with primer (not shown in the picture) and it looks completely smooth, but there’s still a ghost seam there. Hoping it will fade away under the paint. I can’t see how I can do anything else. Guy ps Come on England! 😃 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Iceman 29 Posted July 11, 2021 Share Posted July 11, 2021 I used two-part car body filler. It worked great, it's much easier to work with. You can't see anything at the end of the job. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gisbod Posted July 11, 2021 Author Share Posted July 11, 2021 2 hours ago, Iceman 29 said: I used two-part car body filler. It worked great, it's much easier to work with. You can't see anything at the end of the job. That’s a great idea Pascal, I’ll get some of that.. thanks Guy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johndon Posted July 11, 2021 Share Posted July 11, 2021 Having seen the technique on YouTube, I've recently changed over to a super glue/metallic pigment mix for filling and it has been an absolute revelation, I'd not use anything else now. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jerry L Posted July 11, 2021 Share Posted July 11, 2021 johndon, Do you have a link? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johndon Posted July 12, 2021 Share Posted July 12, 2021 1 hour ago, Jerry L said: johndon, Do you have a link? Here you go: In the past, I've always struggled to get a decent finish with pretty much any type of filler but the above technique has been a game changer. John 2 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jerry L Posted July 12, 2021 Share Posted July 12, 2021 John, thanks, it is a very interesting concept. I'll give it a try on the next build. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gisbod Posted July 12, 2021 Author Share Posted July 12, 2021 Thanks John, Thats a new one on me too! Will definitely be ordering some Ammo Gun Metal.. Although in such a large area (not a gap as such - more a ridge) I can see the car body filler working. I’ll have to experiment. The pigment method could be a game changer on aircraft fuselage seams. How do people discover this stuff! Guy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gisbod Posted July 12, 2021 Author Share Posted July 12, 2021 Question on railings. I don’t like PE railings. The long deck ones on my 1/700 Bismarck really don’t look great in macro mode. From having a model I’m pleased with to one I can’t be bothered to finish. Even in master modellers’ hands, if you really zoom in on their models there are slight gaps and glue. I know Tamiya did some PE posts with holes in - with wire looped through for their upgraded Yamato in 1/350. Any similar options in 1/200? I’m envisaging a post going into a drilled hole, then wired after they’re all fixed in place? Or any other ideas? Annoyingly, I still haven’t got the Detail Up set yet, despite the fact the kit and the set arrived in the UK depot at the same time and were processed together. I can’t really do too much until I know what I’m working with in terms of PE etc Not connected to this build but I saw these pictures on Facebook the other day, they say it’s a ‘paper’ model? Doesn’t look like paper to me! Can anyone explain what it is? How it’s done? Blooming good whatever it is. Thanks Guy 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johndon Posted July 12, 2021 Share Posted July 12, 2021 2 hours ago, Gisbod said: Although in such a large area (not a gap as such - more a ridge) I can see the car body filler working. I’ll have to experiment. The pigment method still works with larger areas, you just have to build it up. One huge advantage, of course, is speed, especially if you use the super glue accelerator. Another good thing is that is sands really well, far better than just super glue alone. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adm Lord De Univers Posted July 12, 2021 Share Posted July 12, 2021 Looks like some is paper and some plastic, metal etc? If paper is glue-infused or glued to a frame, I can't tell. Check out the 'paper' model MLP here. I got nothing from a railings search: so, er, scratch them all? might send you a bit 🤪. I'd be wary about doing long runs. In my case, my sausage fingers would wipe out an entire deck at once, most likely after spending days failing (flailing) at it, but right before the ship became airborne. I thought your 700 railings were fine, could put a figure leaning on offending ones? Or put them at battle stations? David 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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