1/350 HMS Poole, Bangor Class Minesweeper, Starling Models

[socjo1]

All these Micromaster's boats and rafts are really pearl in the crown

Whaler looks being almost bigger than ship. 😉

Glazing is great. You said - no foil, no transparent sheet, only glue?

Is it something like Microscale Kristal Klear?

Regards,

Michał

PS. It looks hull plating disaperaed so far. I wait for your weathering magics, hope it will be more visible then.

Edited December 28, 2021 by socjo1

[Faraway]

@robgizlu I’ll have to get some more ‘buckles’ , my stock is running low, I tend to have more ping off into the great unknown, than I seem to actually fix to the ship. I know what you mean about them being, how shall I put it ? “difficult to thread”, but yeah, lots of light, lots of magnification AND make sure you can actually get at them AND they are facing the right way. You are spot on about knotting the line, seems to work well. My biggest problem is figuring where to put them.

Jon

[Modelholic]

Don't know what 'Bob's Buckles' are made of, but maybe if they're magnetic a sweep of the floor would get some back.

Tom

[Faraway]

1 hour ago, Modelholic said:

Don't know what 'Bob's Buckles' are made of, but maybe if they're magnetic a sweep of the floor would get some back.

Tom

I’ll let you know 

Jon

[Modelholic]

Oh!

Come on guys

...It's a minesweeper (sweeping for magnetic mines. Well buckles!)

There's a pun there somewhere.

Tom

Edited December 28, 2021 by Modelholic

[robgizlu]

On 12/28/2021 at 12:07 PM, socjo1 said:

All these Micromaster's boats and rafts are really pearl in the crown

Whaler looks being almost bigger than ship. 😉

Glazing is great. You said - no foil, no transparent sheet, only glue?

Is it something like Microscale Kristal Klear?

Regards,

Michał

PS. It looks hull plating disaperaed so far. I wait for your weathering magics, hope it will be more visible then.

 

Hi Michal

The portholes are PVA canopy glue.  The bridge windows are plastic (acetate) sheet cut in thin strips and stuck down with "Klear" floor polish.

You're right, the hull plating is not pronounced enough and is disapointing 

Rob

[dnl42]

That looks outstanding! Very well built and finished. 

[Adm Lord De Univers]

18 hours ago, robgizlu said:

the hull plating is not pronounced enough and is disapointing

It's probably more in scale than if it were of the 'pronounced enough' variety? Understated perhaps, but more realistic. Either way I liked it (looked to me to be similar to the photos posted above), but if you don't maybe some wash (or judicious lighting for photos) would bring it out some more?

 

Thanks for the tip on PVA canopy glue, ordering some in now.

 

David

[Bobs_Buckles]

On 12/28/2021 at 3:49 PM, Modelholic said:

Don't know what 'Bob's Buckles' are made of, but maybe if they're magnetic a sweep of the floor would get some back.

Tom

Hi Tom,

 My weeeeeeeeee Buckles are made of annealed copper wire. A magnet won't help! 🤪

 

A rag impregnated with tacky wax might do the trick, but you also have a high chance of collecting errant nasal hair in the process 🤣

 

Cheers,

Bob

 

P.S. Happy New Year One And All! 

[Bobs_Buckles]

On 12/28/2021 at 11:36 AM, robgizlu said:

Thanks Jon

I use the 1/48 buckles.  I have used the "Micro" buckles that are even smaller.  It wont be a suprise to learn that threading them takes three times as long particularly with the thinner "thread" which is somewhat paradoxical - the reason being that it won't thread straight because it's so bendy.  I use as much lighting as I can bring to bear including having a Petzel headtorch right next to the model and use an Optivisor.  It can still take a while.  I no longer rely on supergluing the attachments as I've had too many come adrift - I now tie all the major anchorages using  3 bights with 2 pairs of tweezers.   That said I'm not certain how you'd manage without these buckles.  THANKYOU @Bobs_Buckles once again 

Rob

 

Hi Rob,

 Thanks for the kind words - much appreciated. 😉

If you ever need a slightly larger eye whilst retaining the fine gauge wire of 48th eyelets let me know. Always happy to adapt to fit the situation.

 

Happy New Year!

Cheers,

Bob 

[Modelholic]

Nasal hair might be the least of the 'hair' problems.

Naked Modelling might not only be a way of saying  'don't paint it to show off the workmanship!'

Happy New Year All

Tom

[Faraway]

3 hours ago, Bobs_Buckles said:

 

Hi Rob,

 Thanks for the kind words - much appreciated. 😉

If you ever need a slightly larger eye whilst retaining the fine gauge wire of 48th eyelets let me know. Always happy to adapt to fit the situation.

 

Happy New Year!

Cheers,

Bob 

Hi Bob.

For me, the 1/48 are just right, making the eye bigger would possibly make them more obvious.
I will definitely be ordering more soon.

Happy New Year.

Jon

[robgizlu]

The "main" mast (all be it shorter than the foremast) is stepped further forwards than that for HMS Rhyl which Mike McCabe has modelled.  It also has a stut which extends aftwards...

 

 

The strut " lands" where Ryll's mainmast is stepped.

There's some lycra thread already threaded throught the gap beneath the (?) lookout cage.  I try to antipate now rather than attach items and then find them tricky to thread etc

 

This thread is strung out to form the radio antennas.  Sadly I got some CA glue on the port antenna which sat there and rankled.  I'd overtensioned the line and it had steadfastly refused to Stick to the yard arm.  The yard was getting rpecarious with multiple threads attached and I dare not remove it

The Web suggested acetone would remove super glue so the following day - I rigged a test piece to check that the acetone would not dissolve the lycra.  Mrs M was duly petitioned and acetone was donated for rescue purposes.

 

The acetone slowly dissolved the dried Superglue on the lycra and did not perish the lycra

 

Learning point:  CA glue will dissolve with repeated gentle applications of acetone and does not perish Lycra

 

 

 

 

The other construction evident in the pic are the railings around the 2 pounder.  Curiously Mr McCabe does not provide for the gun platform extension so the spares box was raided.  Thsi will be further covered by splinter mattresses that the original photos confirm.

 

 

 

The next order of business was to add the large number of vents, and once these were attached to fit the railings.

 

I confess - at the risk of contradicting the published consensus, I find it far easier and less painful to use Loctite Powerflex Gel (Super Glue) to attach railings rather than diluted PVA glue - I find the technique which works best for me is to glue it in sections starting with one end, ensuring that the railing runs flat to the deck and then using my accupuncture needles I add glue in dabs along the length sticking it down actively using my thin tweezers to push the bottom "rail" against the deck.  I always find attaching railings nerve wracking - the huge  potential to get things wrong approaching the end of the build and spoil the whole project   Thankfully not on this occasion...

 

 

 

So all that's left to do now is:

Railing painting 

Hull weathering

Flag attaching

Final detailing

 

And BTW,  the hull plating is a little more evident in this above shots

 

Finish should come soon

Thanks for looking 

Happy New Year

 

And for those of you who haven't I highly, highly recommend "Succession" on Sky Atlantic that I get via BT Sport.  My best TV watch of the year - sensational!

Rob

[beefy66]

Looking Great there Rob I am sure those hull plates will pop when you add your weathering magic to it.

 

And Happy New Year to to you

 

Stay Safe

beefy

[Courageous]

Liking what you've done and your sequence of jobs is helping lots.

 

Stuart

 

[socjo1]

10 hours ago, robgizlu said:

I confess - at the risk of contradicting the published consensus, I find it far easier and less painful to use Loctite Powerflex Gel (Super Glue) to attach railings rather than diluted PVA glue - I find the technique which works best for me is to glue it in sections starting with one end, ensuring that the railing runs flat to the deck and then using my accupuncture needles I add glue in dabs along the length sticking it down actively using my thin tweezers to push the bottom "rail" against the deck.  I always find attaching railings nerve wracking - the huge  potential to get things wrong approaching the end of the build and spoil the whole project   Thankfully not on this occasion...

 

May I join you? I used similair technique during both my ship-models buildings and I agree with you. CA gives strong joining and thanks to this better, much precisely fitting. Sometimes it is necessery to use some pressure to attach railing and deck and once again CA shows its adventages. And you can gently sand CA when when there is a need.

 

Regards,

Michał.

[Iceman 29]

Fine details as usual.

 

Can't wait to see it with its anchors.

[Iceman 29]

Fine details as usual.

 

I can't wait to see it with its anchors, which I find a bit too big.

 

 

[robgizlu]

Thanks Pascal - see what you mean - I hadn't noticed.  Sadly the port side is superglued.  She'll be at anchor so no Stbd.

 

I've tried to make the base a little more dynamic with some white water.  Let's say an upper 4.  I prefer the AK foam to cotton wool for this.  I'm undecided as to how successful it is.

 

 

Hull weathering with oils - no more than 4-5.   On this occasion I tried some Dark grey shadow in AK which seems to work.  The original photos do not show heavy weathering so the effect is deliberately restrained

 

 

 

 

 

Seeing these pics in close up I've gone back and restrained some more.

 

I've attempted to accentuate the hull plating

 

 

The portholes have also been filled with "Formula 560" Canopy glue.

The ensign has been fitted using some 0.2mm bendy wire - always a fraught exercise and its placment is a compromise.

The Splinter mats are fitted and weathered with Mig productions neutral grey wash.  These are the new ones from Micromaster and they are just Fab.

Large Cowl vents are fitted together with deck fairleads

The stbd ladder is finally fitted 

The 2 pdr pom pom is fitted

 

She's now ready to be "planted" permanently in the base.

 

 

 

And the shroud and ariel insulators are made using repeat gentle touching with watered down PVA on a cocktail stick - once again fiddly.  hard to see in the following pic because they aren't painted yet

 

 

 

RFI close - just need to get some Appraisal work done (hopefully my last) 

Thanks for looking and all your mind comments

Rob

 

[Modelholic]

Simply amazing.

Curious to know if the ensign gaff should have some rigging holding it up?

Tom

[socjo1]

Magic works 😉

[Courageous]

Looking fab. 

2 hours ago, robgizlu said:

Appraisal

Who's yours? They tried to appraise me before I retired....

 

Stuart

[dnl42]

That looks fabulous! 

 

I'm curious though about the sweep gear? I thought there would eventually be some on-deck. I also don't see any booms or other handling equipment to manage the sweep gear.

I'm familiar with the US YMS (& BYMS) so I suppose I'll need to read a little to see how these vessels worked.

[Faraway]

Ooooo. That does look very good, I do wish I could do weathering like that. Interesting about the AK Water Foam, what exactly is it ?

Looking at your railings has made me think, I’ve never considered doing the stanchions a different colour from the actual rails/chains, I think will be looking at this on HMS Mourne.

Jon

[socjo1]

 

Rob,

I don't know if you will fix any minesweeping gear (untill now I thought there will be).

What about it's bases? I think these woody colours will look strange on these.

 

 

2 hours ago, Faraway said:

Ooooo. That does look very good, I do wish I could do weathering like that. Interesting about the AK Water Foam, what exactly is it ?

Looking at your railings has made me think, I’ve never considered doing the stanchions a different colour from the actual rails/chains, I think will be looking at this on HMS Mourne.

Jon

Agree, I must try it on my next ship too.

Regards,

M.

Edited January 4, 2022 by socjo1