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1/350 HMS Poole, Bangor Class Minesweeper, Starling Models


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Thanks Fellas.

 

The Bangor class vessels, like so many RN wartime designs varied enormously,  HMS Rhyl had soe Scalloped hull sides leadind down to the quarter deck.  Neither Seaham or Poole had these instead opting for "square".

 

Some whittling is called for ...

 

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The Carley platforms are modelled - details from photos are obscure, so there's an element of "guesstimation".  

 

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Skylights are drilled and it's noticable that the PE for the lockers next to the 2 Pounder mount are too big - similar for the locker forward on the 12 Pounder deck.  I lived with this for so long and then removed the PE and filled down to size.

 

The 2 pounder deck extension is added 

 

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I drilled out and carefully filed the wind deflectors on the bridge part - some of had not been moulded "open"

 

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The bridge superstructure needed quite a bit of filing to sit "vertically" on the deck.

 

The Bridge window surround was carefully detached from the fret and filed with a Tamiya Diamond file (A thousand thank-yous @Ex-FAAWAFU Crisp for that invaluable tip).  Sadly it appears too big, unless the intention is for it to sit at the "outside" of the wind deflectors, though the roof piece was still too small.  I think it's a minor design flaw (so be warned) though I stand to be corrected.

 

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The quickest solution is to cut the front of the window surround and shorten it by approximately 1mm.  The port front window will then obviously be smaller and not symmetrical - tant pis!  That's my SMW gold medal gone then ;)

 

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It was hard to know whether to the put the Carley support girders up as it will complicate painting - the advantage of doing it now being that the plastic will stick easier being "bare".  Up they went...

 

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The next challenge is the Bridge roof.  Rhyl had railings around a searchlight - many of the later builds had a distinct apparently solid wooden "pulpit" as did Poole, together with additional railings to both sides.  Here's a good pic showing the pulpit on the bridge roof

 

HMS_Caraquet_FL7505

 

There's a piece of etched metal that was designed for the inner bridge that will suffice.  A piece of platikard was cut and shaped to replace the resin roof version that was only for the forward part of the roof.  

Shaping the wind deflector on the pulpit and adding railings comes next.

 

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Thanks for looking 

More soon

Rob

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Thanks Fellas

 

One of the joys of modelling for me is to listen to Radio 4 or in more recent years podcasts.

Here's a shout-out to one that has completly grabbed my attention and it's a big thanks to Stanley one of my oldest mates for pointing me in it's direction

 

The Rest is History

 

Historians Dominic Sandbrook and Tom Holland riff away - it's addictive.  ( Tom Holland is the Classical historian, his brother James is the WW2 expert)

You heard it here first!!!

 

So on with the modelling

 

Primer.  I learnt on the Spruecutter's Union Podcast the other day that Mig Ammo "One Shot" is in fact Stynylrez :hmmm:

It's good whatever it is

 

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This is a tip I picked up from @beefy66.  Using primer to form plate (panel) lines.

 

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The Starling hull is smooth so the attempt will be to emulate the plate lines that this profile highlights

 

Scan0183

 

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And whilst that's drying - work continued with the bridge 

 

The Wind deflector on the Flying bridge was done with 0.3 x0.5mm Plastruct - the edges being cut at an angle using the Cutting mat template.  spare railings were cut and shaped.  poole was unusual in that she seems to have had railing around nearly the whole of the aft roof

 

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And using another tip from the Beefster ( @beefy66)  He's a Grand lad :winkgrin:

 

Spray dodgers are made using cigarette papers soaked in a very diluted PVA solution (use the Fine papers)

 

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I was pleased to see on Fbook that Atlantic Models are close to releasing their Hunt class type 2 - Stroll on HMS Avonvale :)

 

Thanks for looking

Rob

 

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On 29/11/2021 at 21:18, robgizlu said:

I was pleased to see on Fbook that Atlantic Models are close to releasing their Hunt class type 2 - Stroll on HMS Avonvale :)

 

 

Today "Everything is change" but one thing not. I mean kind of White Ensign Model's spirit and quality. Even in XXI century. To be honest especially these white metal parts always scared me very much. Of course, I wish all the best for Atlantic Models but really thanks God for Starling, Black Cat Micromaster and so on...

😉

Regards,

M. 

Edited by socjo1
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On 11/29/2021 at 8:18 PM, robgizlu said:

And using another tip from the Beefster ( @beefy66)  He's a Grand lad :winkgrin:

 

Spray dodgers are made using cigarette papers soaked in a very diluted PVA solution (use the Fine papers)

 

On 11/30/2021 at 3:05 PM, longshanks said:

Nice bit of micro engineering Sir with due credit to Keith. I hope he's defrosted by now

 

Kev

 

Glad to see someone using my tips makes me feel use full.  :yahoo:

 

Yes warming up a treat now Kev power back yesterday but just to much to do to get on the computer until now.

 

This shaping up a treat Rob and picking up a few tips to add to my little book as well Cheers

 

Stay Safe

beefy

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On 11/30/2021 at 10:19 PM, socjo1 said:

Today "Everything is change" but one thing not. I mean kind of White Ensign Model's spirit and quality. Even in XXI century. To be honest especially these white metal parts always scared me very much. Of course, I wish all the best for Atlantic Models but really thanks God for Starling, Black Cat Micromaster and so on...

😉

Regards,

M. 

 

Hi Michal.

I understand.  On the plus side you get excellent moulded resin and Photo etch.  You are right - the white metal bits now belong to a past era.  That's the beauty of having Micromaster (Currently dead in the water due to catastrophic printer failure :weep:) and Black Cat models.  You can get all the detail bits.

I'm really looking forwards to it - who hasn't got a soft spot for the Ugly duckling :winkgrin:

Best 

Rob

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I constantly reference the original photos.........

 

HMS Seaham - Copy

 

Looking at the aft Carly raft aft suddenly struck me that the supports came down to the deck rail, logical really that the support should allow the raft to slide directly into the water.  Which of course begs the question how I manged to coome up with this..

 

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I should like this and several other misdemeanours to be taken into consideration.............:oops:

So strip that nonsense away to replace it with more nonsense

 

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I feel happier :mellow:

 

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Whilst work continues "plating"

 

 

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And the base is painted glossed - touched up and glossed etc.  I've used a different sea colour in each of my builds to date.  This is the lightest to date and I

quite like it

 

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I Couldn't resist some preliminary deck painting

 

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B55 - I absolutely LOVE this colour.  (I like colour :nerd:)

 

And here's a quick plug for You know Who !

 

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Once again referring back to the original photos and the CB3098(R) May 1943 Ship painting directions - I originally looked for the G20 and dismissed it as being absent.  Then looking more closely with the photo magnified - there's the evidence staring me in the face....

 

F4c_0031 resized.preview

 

Capture

 

 

G20 on bridge

 

You can clearly see the "arc" of G20 over the B55.  The photos match the Admiralty designated scheme exactly.

 

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Now "teak" decks are almost always represented as a sandy yellow colour, which I'm sure is what they appear when they are scrubbed or when newly laid.  Walk around any yacht marina and the first thing that will strike you deckwise is how grubby and weathered most teak decks get.  Here's a pic of my mate's current stead

 

IMG_2770

 

Nothing sandy yellow there then

 

Minesweepers were hard working little ships that I suspect did not have the attention lavished on them that the largers Destroyers, Cruisers and Capital ships did.

So this teak will be a little dirtier

 

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The shade will dirty up with a deck wash.

 

So ....when it came to peeling off the plating masking I encountered the dreaded "paint lift":fool:  It doesn't often happen as I'm fairly scrupulous about washing parts.  Clearly Not well enough on this occasion

 

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So it's back to primer, sanding, priimer sanding and primer plating, leaving at least 12 hrs between each coat - so a 3 day delay:banghead:

Definitely a case of 3 steps forwards, 2 steps back

Thanks for looking 

Rob

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Look at these two pictures and find any differences:

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UXjZjNO.jpg

Of course, as you I washed and cleaned my HMS Jed with alcohole before spaying primer too...

So I think it's not a question of cleaning, just this resin is very risky and demanding stuff for masking.

That's why I later used later Alclad's Blackprimer & Microfiller instead of Mr. Surfacer. It was much much better and adhesive however in a few places I still had some trobles with paint's chipping and peeling.

NmQ5c6P.jpg

I heard a few generall rules: dry a few days resin in the sun or on the wall-radiator wraped tightly in paper-towel. Then clean with alcohol and so on.

Stinky, aggresive primers (Citadel's chaos black, Mr. resin primer, Tamiya primer in rattle can)  are better than acrylic primers (for example One Shot/Stylesomething...) - @Michael M is great fan of Tamiya surface primer too.

 

Regards,

Michal.

Edited by socjo1
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Rob, the paint peeling/lifting issue is my worse nightmare.  I've mentioned before that I've been using a generic grey automotive primer in rattle can.  Dries quickly & hard. sands easily, & most importantly sticks like glue to bare unpainted wood, plastic & resin surfaces.  The Scotsman in me likes it too, since it's cheap.  I've applied top coats of both oil based & acrylic paint over this primer with no lifting or peeling issues (so far 🤞).  The only caution I have (based on experience :angrysoapbox.sml:) is the the automotive primer shouldn't be applied on pre-painted uncured surfaces (other than coats of the same primer) as it will lift the paint. 

 

John

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Thanks Fellas

 

It's the first time this has happened to me with resin so it's a least reassuring to know that others have had similar.

I still think it was poor washing technique and interestingly - with repeat washing, the paint now seems to be adhering.

I'm extremely wary about rattle cans as when I've used them previously paint delivery is at best erratic.

 

The answer for me in the future will be to use Alclad, as suggested by Michal.  I have used it in the past and what's not to love, apart from the smell and hassle :mellow:

C'est la vie. 

The main issue here was to prepare for the Camouflage masking and pennant number masks.  It would have been a real nuisance for it to have lifted at that late stage.

 

Here's the repaired version with some deck stain added to the "teak"

 

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More soon

Rob

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Looks very neat great recovery my go to primer is Halfords auto primer Grey,Red Oxide and Matt Black 

Never had any problems with them so far🤞

Stay Safe

beefy  

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  • 2 weeks later...

Masking after spraying Klear over the 507C

 

I apply some Tamiya tape onto the hull - then pencil on the camouflage outline.  Gently remove and then cut wth a No 11 blade on a cutting mat freehand

 

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The pennant stencill was placed on before spraying.  i get these custom made from Maketar.

The Dark grey is G10

 

Rob

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