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Matchbox 1/76, Morris C.8 Mk II, 17pdr Gun, Willy's Jeep set


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Had this one for a while now,  can't remember what is actually cost me, it was part of  batch of kits sold to me cheaply by a fellow club member Glenn Rance,  £3 or £4 I think.  Evidently cost someone £4.50 is 1993 though

51274112783_85a2065877_b.jpg50620944 by losethekibble, on Flickr

 

I wanted some cheap armour/AFV kits to practice on, and experiment with colours, as my research thread shows, started when I got the kits

 

 

I gave the parts a wash, using Deepio, which is commercial kitchen degreaser, not sure if they needed it  

51274668059_c70feb4590_b.jpg50620943 by losethekibble, on Flickr

 

I've been somewhat distracted by quest for acrylic Dark Earth and Dark Green....  anyway this made me tidy enough desk space to get to the cutting mat.  

 

I started with the 17 Pdr, and then did some of the jeep,  all going swimmingly I thought

51273938886_c6a45dc079_b.jpg50620945 by losethekibble, on Flickr

 

until the next day....

51274666899_d19c049f13_b.jpg50620946 by losethekibble, on Flickr

 

Ah. Yes, the spades on the trail legs.... upside down..... genius. :doh: (the pivot bit is just dry fitted) 

 

Anyway, I was able to lever them off, as I'd done them with TET, re-attached, and the found while the right way up... the wrong way round.

 

Eventually I got them right.   

 

The instructions do show all  the detail, but you really have too look, and also work on the sequence...

 

I did drill out the 17 Pdr, I was about to reach for the calculator to work out the drill size, Hmm, 76.2mm, divided by 76...is oh basically 1mm.....

 

I'm a bit further ahead now,   while everything does fit, needs a very careful clean up of seam lines and cleaning of mating surfaces, and test fitting to get everything to fit properly. 

 

While did do a load of Matchbox armour back in 79/80*,  I never did this one or any of the other bigger sets. 

Not sure how I would have coped with this back then, but i did have smaller fingers and lower expectations......

 

*Most of those have survived pretty much intact, but I have no idea where diorama bases went!  

 

Cheers

T

 

 

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Always loved these Matchbox armour kits Troy,probably the only one I never built was the Char B and Renault tank dio but plan to

soon as it's on re-release.Great start.

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Good to see you on board old fruit.The instructions are very densely packed illustrations and,with less than perfect eyesight,difficult to discern at times.All I can advise is lot of dryfitting to make sure all the bits go in before glue is committed to.I'm looking forward to seeing what you do with this one. 

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Hi Troy,

 

For British Military Vehicle paint schemes and markings I normally use a combination of Mike Starmer's guides (see mafva.net for downloadable copies of his basic colour scheme/paint mix info if it is still there) and the Warpaint series of books by Dick Taylor in the Mushroom range which either Mike or maybe the then curator of the Tank Museum David Willey recommended to me about 8 years ago. Whilst the Morris might possibly still be in G3 base colour, it is more likely to be SCC.2 or SCC.15. Lend Lease kit such as the Jeep was seldom repainted unless modified - eg Achilles and Firefly, and even then it was only supposed to be patch painted with SCC.15 where the new bits were so US OD is fine. The 17 pdr did enter service during the SCC.2 period but is probably more likely to be SCC.15 I would have thought in your chosen period, but entirely up to you. On tanks the painting of a disruptive pattern was not supposed to happen once SCC.15 came in, but that was sometimes ignored, as was the instruction not to use white paint in winter. Second line vehicles such as the Morris may still have had SCC.14 applied but as Mike says it was supposed to be dark on top and lighter working down. This is the one Matchbox kit I never did build so I will watch with interest.

 

Pete

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2 hours ago, stevej60 said:

Always loved these Matchbox armour kits Troy,probably the only one I never built was the Char B and Renault tank dio but plan to

soon as it's on re-release.Great start.

Up on Amazon at the mo for £12.49 posted.    Looks like retail is £18-20.  One I never did either, and doing this got me searching about.   I just ordered one.

This is worth a read

https://thetacticalpainter.blogspot.com/2019/09/painting-french-armour-for-1940.html

 

2 hours ago, Alex Gordon said:

All I can advise is lot of dryfitting to make sure all the bits go in before glue is committed to

Not just dry fitting, careful scraping of mould lines, deepening of corners,  and use of a flat file/and or scraping to true up parts,  I used TET on the 17 Pdr and jeep, and then back to superglue on the C.8

But the tarp on the C.8 I help in place/shape with gaffa tape, and the wicked in a little TET. 

Didn't like the bonnet construction, and did add a plastic card tab at the top.

But, with care, patience and triple dry fits, and looking at the box art, especially the side,  it all fits very well.  So far. 

I'm a bit further than this now.

51273940091_df1966b5af_b.jpg50620947 by losethekibble, on Flickr

 

52 minutes ago, PeterB said:

This is the one Matchbox kit I never did build so I will watch with interest.

Hi Pete

It's a fiddly one.  I did the research on the colours a while back, as the linked thread shows, and also found this, which has some great pics, by @Mike Starmer

https://www.keymilitary.com/article/mighty-mouse

 

The plan at the mo, as part of this is examples of British paint schemes

 

17 Pdr - SCC15

 

Jeep - US OD 9 with SCC14 disruptive

 

C8 - Body in SCC2 with SCC1 disruptive, but tarp in SCC2 bitumenous emulsion(slightly lighter) with SCC14 disruptive. 

 

This is unusual, but not unknown,  and an example is in the linked article, this one

 

img_80-1_49.jpg?itok=uqZWSwDX

"MTP 46 dapple pattern of SCC No. 2 (brown) and SCC 1A (very dark brown) with a dyed canvas tilt. Not exactly to ‘the book’;"

But I'll see how it look as I go.  I have paint already lined up.

 

see 

https://alliedarmour1940.wordpress.com/vallejo-paint-mixes-for-british-armour/

 

Also, looking at the diorama, the 'bricks' are about 1/35th scale.....    it mentioned Caen on the box,  and so a google earth street view wander around showed plenty of buildings in some kind of limestone/sandstone, with large blocks,  like this screenshot. 

51274993956_45ed7a05c1_b.jpgCaen street view crop by losethekibble, on Flickr

 

this also has light grey square block in the gutter,  (which is why I did the image, again, quite common on my virtual street tour, but I just wanted an image of the block, their colur, and the gutter block in one shot)

a pic of Caen street fighting show a Tommy lying on blocks like this,  or similar, which is what the roadway in the diorama look like

YJv5ykcvE7AO0AnOuAC2szxKCTFyx1KSwdrVWyEO

 

I'll also see if I can get a shot or two unpainted but assembled, for that proper Matchbox 'no need to paint for younger modellers' effect.  

 

While I am researching colours of the whole thing, I'm avoiding looking at the accuracy of the models,  as I just want to build them and enjoy the painting....

 

thanks for looking in and encouraging comments

 

cheers

T

 

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16 hours ago, TimJ said:

I built this kit OOB a few years ago following the painting guide on the instructions.

That looks fabulous Tim,  my paint witter is just because I find it personally interesting,  and am old enough to remember when British tanks were basically 'green' or 'sand' if in the desert! 

I even found a mid 70's articles on British armour colours in a mid 70's Military Modelling that wasn't much better.

 

The point about the buildings was just because I know you don't get bricks this big .... and well,  the ability to have a virtual wander around Caen to see if there was a style that could fit this blocks..... Turned out to be a good hunch :)     

 

The other thing that got me, was just how BIG a 17 pdr gun is....  and they then got one in a Sherman turret ?!?!?! ! 

 

cheers

T

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22 hours ago, Troy Smith said:

 

Also, looking at the diorama, the 'bricks' are about 1/35th scale.....    it mentioned Caen on the box,  and so a google earth street view wander around showed plenty of buildings in some kind of limestone/sandstone, with large blocks,  like this screenshot. 

 

 

Pretty sure that is Caen Stone (I’m not being facetious). Battle Abbey is partly built of it and if memory serves, The Tower of London.

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22 minutes ago, Avereda said:

Pretty sure that is Caen Stone (I’m not being facetious). Battle Abbey is partly built of it and if memory serves, The Tower of London

Thanks, males sense.   That name does jog a memory of the term.    I'll have a look at what that bring in a search.

2 hours ago, Alex Gordon said:

Oddly enough I thought the same about the wall when I built my Jagdpanther last year.I painted them as stone and it worked for me.

This is the only Matchbox diorama base I refound, And the brick size jumped out at me...., I thought of using it for some larger scale.

Weird thing, I have no idea where the others went...which is now bugging me, I know I still have built Matchbox , Firefly, 155mm Gun, Wespe, T-34, Stuart, Jagdpanther, Comet, Chaffee, maybe a couple more? Panther? 

Dunno, I'd have to find the box, where they are, except the Comet, that has been sitting in upper/lower and tracks off,  on my kitchen window shelves,  I gave it a wash, and reassembled today.   Painted as per the instructions so it's got bands of khaki over it...

I'll do a photo later if you'd like.

 

2 hours ago, Alex Gordon said:

Looking good so far old chum.

Thank you.

Nothing very pic worthy today, looked up seat colours for jeeps and the C.8, which seem to be a fabric (ie slightly lighter)( version of the main colour,  and spent time scraping and sanding the wheels so they look tyre like, which took longer than expected, but was quite relaxing. 

Cleaned up C.8 bonnet seam, but overall still very impressed how much difference a little prep makes to the entire fit,  which is nearly flawless.  Impressive design and moulding.

 

 

 

neat Jagdpanther too,  the tracks look identical to the Comet ones though :( 

If Revell tooled up some link and length accurate injected track for these that would really help..as otherwise these are still quite decent  kits AFAIK.  I've not tried searching for AM replacements  track......yet.

 

cheers

T

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Hi Troy,

AM track in this scale is not easy to find I think. I have used some resin ones from OKB Grigorov in the past and they were pretty good but at around 11 Euros plus postage back then cost as much as the kits - depends on the length/width of track I think and you probably get enough for 2 tanks. He has a good selection for German, US and Russian WWII tanks and a few British and French I believe, plus a few post war.

 

https://shop.okbgrigorov.com/category/6/1-72-resin-detail-sets-and-conversions.html

 

Pete

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Hi Troy and welcome to the LTAT GB. Great to have you here. Nice choice of kit too and it looks like you are off to a great start. :thumbsup:

Kind regards,

Stix

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Right.... more fiddling with tiny parts.  The C8 spring and axles are really tricky,  as they don't have a placement diagram, the rear springs fot one way, and the gear bulges are too one side...  The box art showed the front one so i sent with that.  And there was a little mould misalignment, which did affect the springs. 

I got the front done last night, but the back was not wanting to play,  and the SG wasn't grabbing, so I had the sense to leave it overnight, then scraped of the SG, and did some more adjusting, used some tiny blobs of tube glue, and it went on well and level. 

 

Onto adding more small bits, I may leave the random rifles and Bren out of the C8, they are not that visible and might of use elsewhere.

 

So, I dry fitted the wheels with blutack so I could set this up... 

 

without the tarps

51279611871_47a36f40ee_b.jpg50620954 by losethekibble, on Flickr

 

with

51279611641_514cf2612d_b.jpg50620956 by losethekibble, on Flickr

 

the building is just held with some tape.  The choice of plastic colour works well on this set, which is why I wanted an unpainted shot. 

 

cheers

T

 

 

 

 

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On 28/06/2021 at 22:06, Avereda said:

Pretty sure that is Caen Stone (I’m not being facetious). Battle Abbey is partly built of it and if memory serves, The Tower of London.

Indeed, when I stuck that into google...

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Caen_stone

"Caen stone (French: Pierre de Caen), is a light creamy-yellow Jurassic limestone quarried in north-western France near the city of Caen. The limestone is a fine grained oolitic limestone formed in shallow water lagoons in the Bathonian Age about 167 million years ago. The stone is homogeneous, and therefore suitable for carving.

The stone was first used for building in the Gallo-Roman period with production from open cast quarries restarting in the 11th century. Shipped to England, Canterbury Cathedral, Westminster Abbey and the Tower of London were all partially built from Caen stone. "

 

I had a play with the backdrop, the corner joint wasn't great, so I used some tube glue and added a couple of bits of square plastic strip to some cut outs, was still a bit flimsy, so then backfilled with CA and talc.

51286473480_847210b5cf_b.jpg50620959 by losethekibble, on Flickr

 

while I didn't  do anything to the vehicles, I did scribe in the missing vertical block lines that couldn't be moulded., as can be seen here

51286173169_9d37b270e7_b.jpg50620958 by losethekibble, on Flickr

 

the paint is first coat of a mix of Tamiya desert yellow and buff, which seems a reasonable match to the various images.

 

I have not done many pics, but have pressed on.

this is where I'm up too.

 

51286172884_fd6bbb1365_b.jpg50620957 by losethekibble, on Flickr

 

 The tyres can be seen on bits of skewer in the background,  I found a large tealight which made a good pincushion for the bits of skewer..

 

the paint used are in the pic, 

https://alliedarmour1940.wordpress.com/vallejo-paint-mixes-for-british-armour/

SCC (Standard Camouflage Colours)

SCC 1A (Dark Brown) - 70822 German Camo Black Brown [150] (Mike Starmer, 2011)

SCC 2 Brown - 70826 German Camo Medium [145] (Mike Starmer, 2011)

whicj is on the C8

 

 

SCC 15 (Olive Drab) 1pt 70888 Olive Grey [92] + 1pt 70924 Russian Uniform WWII [094] (Mike Starmer, 2009)

is the 17b Pdr

 

the US OD was 70887,  this one called 'brown violet ' but also ANA 613,  and was a decent match for a FS number quoted for US OD 9

the SCC14 black was XF-69 nato black.

which is one the jeep, though the canvas tilt was done in Russian uniform 70924, which was a looked like a OD canvas, though now mostly covered by SCC14.....

 

some more on the camo

https://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?/topic/60153-how-can-i-do-mickey-mouse-camo-scheme-in-72nd/#elControls_649648_menu

 

"I must point out that the so named 'Mickey Mouse' pattern was not an officially named design but merely a simple production means of applying the disruptive design set out in Military Training Pamphlet 46/4A. This specifies that the whole of the surfaces that are visisble from directly above the vehicle must be painted the darker colour. The drawing included with the order shows that in addition the cab window frames, bonnet and exposed mudguards maust be included. In addition any side windows on an office body must be at least partially included within a dark area. The darker areas are blended into the lighter colour using undulating edges which must be hard, NOT sprayed. That is how the Bedfords and AECs are done so brush is the correct method.

In many cases the 'MM' type patterning was applied by templates when it was applied at depots or factory. I have photographs of lines of vehicles all carrying exactly the same shaped patches in exactly the same places on each vehicle. One photograph I have of the refulling crews on a wartime airfield has 4 Matador 6x4 tankers all displaying exactly the same shaped patterns at the same locations. Oddly there appears to have been at least three different templates in use. The overall pattern was achieved by placing the template at a specific point on the vehicle and chalking around it so that the unskilled labour force, often women, could follow round and brush paint the marked areas. However there are many photographs of vehicles carrying what is described as 'MM' disruptive painting that strictly isn't, but hard edged lobes of darker colour. From collating pictures I believe that there was a particular layout for the dark areas on certain vehicles but so far I have not been able to work it out yet.

You don't have to use green and black either as the green SCC15 (Olive Drab) colour did not come into use until about April 1944. The basic colour was SCC 2 (brown) until then. The darker colour was mostly SCC1A (very dark brown) until mid 1943 then SCC14 (black) became the prefered colour so your QL can be combinations of those colours if you wish. Google MTP46, this shows examples of the pattern."

https://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?/topic/234931091-instructions-for-repainting-b-class-vehicles-camouflage-chart-no-15-may-1943/

 

WO_Camouflage_Chart_No_15_1943.jpg

 

cheers

T

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Hi Troy,

 

I seem to remember reading that the instructions said that no two vehicles in a unit should have exactly the same pattern, and the leaflet you have included seems to imply the same. I also see it says that they leave the factory with a "mechanically applied pattern" and that "it is better not to continue with this design when repainting", but then again I have seen instructions saying that vehicles should not be repainted unless absolutely necessary and some softskins etc still had a G3 base colour in 1944. It is just as complicated a subject as the paintwork on planes - I seem to remember that I have 16 different tins of Colourcoats paint for WWII British vehicles and even that is not quite the full"official" range as I can think of at least 3 other colours that were used!

 

Should look good when you have finished it.

 

Cheers

 

Pete

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On 03/07/2021 at 00:34, PeterB said:

It is just as complicated a subject as the paintwork on planes

indeed, and has certainly got me interested,  I know I keep on about it, but  looking at old Military Modelling mags there is just none of this information. 

Today i got a book I saw in the university library many years ago,  refound the title via google, and was rather disappointed at how blinkin' much used copies were,  finally the wonderful world of Amazon pricing algorithms turned up a 'cheap' copy of this

51n1W3p13FL._SX402_BO1,204,203,200_.jpg

 

I note now the price is back to "HOW MUCH" amounts as well!

It's a very readable account of pretty ridiculous story...  And has some good photos as well.

 

 

Anyway....back the model,  been playing with the base.

 

Did the road paving in Tamiya XF-20 medium grey,  then added an black/burnt umber oil wash thinned with lighter fuel, then stipple it with more Tamiya grey and buff, wasn't happy, drybrushed it hard with XF-20....

Not happy, left it, more drybrushing, then a paynes grey very very thin wash, and then more black and umber etc etc..  

the holes got more burnt umber.

The building got a base of approx 1 part Tamiya Desert yellow to 2 parts Buff, then oil wash, initially a dirty grey, then as it faded, paynes grey and burnt umber, using a fine brush, and very very thin, dot on and capillary action does the rest, and some washing on the blocks.  I did the fallen block on the road later, in the stone mix, and added some oil wash.  

One thing I have found, you can start slapping on the oil/lighter fuel mix as soon as the Tamiya is touch dry, which is great if you are impatient..

Also, trying to randomise adding more oil wash helps give a more natural look I hope. 

 

For comparison the bit  with the windows is just the base stone mix.   The photo is not great, be interesting to see how it look in daylight.    Theraod overall looks more like the bit on the left not catching the light.    I'll add some ground pastel chalk as well,  which really matts things down.

I think some drybrushing of the base colour on the wall, and picking the damage chips in fresh base may help.

51288881925_d0e91061b2_b.jpg50620960 by losethekibble, on Flickr

 

for comparison, here's the unpainted base

51279611641_514cf2612d_b.jpg

 

Not done much on the vehicles, painted the hubs is about it..... so wheels should go on next and detail bits,  and the figures, which look tiny, some touch up, decal, and then weathering. 

 

Thanks for looking in, be interested to see what other think of the base work,  suggestions? Omissions?

 

cheers

T

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David Fletcher writes some good books. I met him once when I spent an hour in the Tank Museum library - he is quite a character!

 

Pete

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Hi Troy. Great to see more progress with this project and it's looking good too! I like what you are doing with the scenic elements as well. :thumbsup:

Kind regards,

Stix

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On 05/07/2021 at 14:38, PlaStix said:

I like what you are doing with the scenic elements as well

yeah..  this has taken up quite a bit of time....  I spend time pondering one project while otherwise engagaged,  and end up in some interesting research areas. There are quite a few unedited reels of the George Stevens footage shot in color between D-Day and summer 1945, which are an absolute treasure trove, especially if you can downlaod them and then play in media player which has useful features like different speeds, frame by frame and snapshots facility, VLC Media player has all these.

 

Anyway, I went hunting images of French shops,  not that many to be seen unfortunately,  though I did find this

 

51294367456_b7c2f926f4_b.jpgvlcsnap-00001 by losethekibble, on Flickr

 

Not really what i was looking for,  but still useful. 

 

I also gave the tyres a dry brush with dark grey and did the jeep hubs.  Note my new bit of cardboard support for the skewers. 

 

The kit has a decal for '54 delicatessen 54'  which I wanted to use, problem is it's too small for the area, and has black damaged parts....  so, I spent some time trying to match the decal colour, got pretty close,  and then painted the shop front and first floor windowsills to match. 

I think the green bits on the sign are meant to be bunches of grapes?

 

51294541013_0288109e35_b.jpg50620961 by losethekibble, on Flickr

 

 Except it didn't very closely,  so with a fine brush I filled in the decal to match, and trimmed out the black... may not have been worth the bother, as the moulding implies that the place has burnt out,  so time for some fire damage...

 

51295366430_2c1404bc65_b.jpg50620963 by losethekibble, on Flickr

 

51294541453_833e28cb4e_b.jpg50620962 by losethekibble, on Flickr

 

First was an oil paint wash of paynes grey and burnt umber,  then a far messier one with black added, scrubbed on, then some ground pastel chalk and more washing about, a lot done streaking up, and then down with brushed damped in lighter fuel so a bit of the sign is visible. 

There is some more detail not really visible, tThe brown plastic when scrape back too look like hardwood,  and for contrast the sills chips show grey, as opposed to yellow/buff mix....  none is very visible under the smoke damage though.... 

 

In reality I suspect the sign would be more fire damaged and unreadable, as it did look before I removed some of the 'smoke'  but for artistic effect I wanted the sign vaguely readable. 

 

And i need to do the doorstep....  

 

Just dry fitted, the two wall bits are gluing,  I will have to paint the back bits black, as looks silly in bare plastic. 

 

 next is adding wheels,  paint touch ups and decals, the some weathering. 

 

Looking at the films I mentioned, if this is summer 44, it's more dust than mud for weathering.  I'm not that up on vehicle weathering so I go easy on that.

 

Thanks for reading,  suggestions welcome. 

 

cheers

T

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I've tried to keep from doing any real modifications to the kits,  but the figures were really stiff, arm by their side for the ones touching the steering wheel, so I went for making at least one hand on the steering wheel,  if possible...

 I also found out the brown plastic was really brittle, and tiny bit flew off....amazingly, I was able to find them, adjust them and reattach with tiny drops of tube glue. 

 

Slapped a bit of Mr Surfacer on the arm joins.  A bit crude close up,  but unless it's macro world, they pass. 

Initial coat of Flat Earth and Light Flesh, and also showing the flats I sanded onto the tyres,  easier to do them when still on the skewer.,.

 

51300893383_b185cb6b19_b.jpg50620964 by losethekibble, on Flickr

 

This is dry fitted figures and steering wheels,  I was doing this to get the hands to fit the wheels,  

51299964177_f788e365c8_b.jpg50620966 by losethekibble, on Flickr

 

and the 17 Pdr with wheels attached, trail legs glued and cross bar added.   

All the vehicles and gun  need a some touch up doing,  wondering if decaling might be easier before adding the wheels....  I'll add the figures later though, as they will get in the way.

 

The diorama base has been to the wall, and the back painted black with one if those little Humbrol pots, which was semi dried out but once restored with a load of water and flow improver brushed well.   Seemed a newer design to most that I have, so maybe they took the fine sand out of the formula..... :rolleyes:

 

thank for reading and reacting.

 

cheers

T

 

 

 

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Small update

 

51304493093_1c7d4bb08f_b.jpg50620968 by losethekibble, on Flickr

 

Pic is natural light, by a window, with a bit of paper behind. 

 

I gave the 17 pdr an oil wash with lighter fuel, this time I tired sap green/burnt umber and tiny amount of black, then the usual washing it of with neat fuel.  I need to remember the trick of using some cardboard to remove some of the excess oil in the paint, as I get glossy patches.  

Today, I threw cautions to the wind, and on a nail board rubbed various pastel chalks, (I bought a cheap set of earth tones)  yellow, brown, grey, mixed together.  Applying dry was OK, then I dumped the powder into a pallete, and added lighter fuel,  and brushed it on, it dries really fast, and you can adjust the deposition with a brush dipped in clean LF.  I was aiming for a dusty streaked appearance,  which had also been rained in, so streaked with dust, and in collected in the crevices, I brushed down the armour plate, and you can see how it has collected in the tyre tread and other places.    IIRC the soil in Normandy is like the soil in the South Downs,  the bedrock being chalk, and when dry it is a  light grey with a brown-purple tint.....  

Thinking about it, a drybrush with some lightened SCC15 mix would have been a good idea,  but it lets assume it's a rather new gun and not got faded ;) 

 

The figures, well, I had given them a coat of mr Surfacer, and then when I did the Vallejo  Flat Earth for the uniform, overthinned it, which then highlighted the top of the creases, a dark umber oil/LF wash then collected in the engraved detail, which being neatly done, shades the figure very easily.   same for the faces, which are not great, but look face like enough at any sane viewing distance.

Used Vallejo Khaki for the webbing, and the helmet is the  SCC15 mix,  I even looked up what British helmets were painted in, which seems to be what ever the main vehicle colour was at the time.   

The matt varnish is not as matt as I'd like,  I may have to experiment with adding some talc.  I may do a careful dry brush with some Flat earth as well.  

The crate is from the Airfix Forward Command Post kit I did in my youth,  and was too hand......  looking at the pics, some pastel dusting on the diorama bas would help as well.

 

Still procrastinating  a bit on the other vehicles,  did some touch ups and small additions,   so next one should be those nearing completion. 

 

Thanks for reading,

 

cheers

T

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Wonderful progress Troy! That really is coming together beautifully! I am really impressed with you work on the building! :worthy: The 17pdr is looking excellent too but I can see what you mean about he glossy finish on the figures. I'm sure you'll be able to sort them out okay.

Kind regards,

Stix

 

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Right, after some procrastination, and various little bits and pieces, some rolled fabric parts and the C.8 towhook,  I glued the wheels together, touch up paint and such like.

 

I used some Vallejo Model air dark blue grey for the SCC14 on the C.8 tarp, which was also done with a lightened version of the bodywork SCC2 brown.

 

51324554395_5159f07eb4_b.jpg50620976 by losethekibble, on Flickr

 

I did the C.8 tarpaulin,  wasn't really happy and have gone back over the pattern since.... if I really don't like it,  it's not fixed, I can do it again, and there are spare star decals as well.

 

Anwyay, I just spent a pleasing morning decalling,  

here they are, shiny in the sun, 

51322824667_ea2a87e2f9_b.jpg50620977 by losethekibble, on Flickr

 

The big star on the jeep is getting microsol at the mo.  I applied the decals using diluted Kleer, and a bit of my paint thinning solution, 95% de-ionied water and 5% flow improver. 

I also nicked some 11th Armoured Division bull flashed from Airfix Cromwell kits, as the one in the kit were horrible, there is one in the photo belwo the one on the C.8

I think the WD numbers on the C.8 re a bit too big, but that's what was supplied.  

Redo C.8 tarp, Matt varnish, weathering, wheels, drivers and steering wheels are what left...oh, and the C.8 light, I left it off as it would have made doing the WD number harder.....

 

Thanks for reading.

cheers

T

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