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Tamiya 1/35 Panther Ausf.A


Ned

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I thought that I was being clever buying this for its size/cost ratio as something to practise on, but I see that I'm not the first to have this idea!

I'm just going for a quick build so that I have something to try things like hairspray chipping on, and it certainly goes together quickly. Two empty sprues on day 1 must be a record for me.

I have at least closed up the underside of the hull to stop daylight showing through the engine deck grilles. I've seen someone else on here stick a picture of the radiators and engine under the grilles, so I might try something similar.

Up until now my son has only seen my Panzer I/II/III builds, so he was immediately impressed and declared it 'the best one', it certainly is imposing compared to them (but I still prefer the silly little ones). I built one of these 40 years ago and remember it being the first kit that I was really pleased with afterwards, so we'll see how this goes. I'll give it to him when it's finished because it doesn't fit in with anything else - the gun barrel alone is the same length as a Panzer I.

Wasn't going to do a WIP, but I might have some questions for you all when I get my hairspray out :)

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17 minutes ago, Stef N. said:

These Tamiya kits are ideal for trying out new techniques. Are you going to give zimmerit a go or give it a wide berth this time?

No to zimmerit because it's not something that I would normally need for what I build. Having to scribe the interlocking edges of armour plate is new enough for me this time. It's for painting practise pure and simple. I'm even going to use the rubber tracks.

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Ready for some primer :)

Building it OOTB the biggest niggle has been that all of the holes for handles and hooks are too big and have had to be filled and redrilled smaller. The rear plate isn't a good fit, but it's not really designed to be due to the kit's origins as a motorised model.

Having something built and ready for paint in less that a week without breaking a sweat has been satisfying in itself.

I'm going to slide some pictures under the engine deck grilles when the painting is done.

The deliberate 'bit that I'll sort out later but never do' is a round hole on the engine deck that I think needs a forward facing air scoop making. I might have a go with a bent drinking straw, or I might not ;)

I'll be Googling hairspray chipping later on, if anyone has any suggestions then feel free to comment.

Spray from the can, or decant it into an airbrush?

Red oxide primer, hairspray, leave it 20 minutes, spray Dunkelgelb (Vallejo acrylic), leave it 20 minutes, attack with wet toothbrush? I'm not planning on going mad, just a bit of red showing through around the edges and hatches (famous last words!)

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Well, what can I say. Tried hairspray chipping again. I think I've had enough of it! All I get is big lumps of paint tearing off. Either too much/not enough/too near/too far/wrong kind for it to work.

This was just roadwheels, so I've got plenty more to try with, but I just don't think I want to play with this technique any more. For the half dozen kits I'll build a year, I think I'll just stick with what I know I can do in a repeatable way.

Smells nice though. Cocunut makes a pleasant change to choking chemical fumes :)

 

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Well now, this morning it just looks even worse! I guess I put too much on and/or didn't let it dry for long enough. I'll have another go and put less on.

As an ex-Goth, I thought that there was no such thing as "too much hairspray"!

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5 hours ago, Model Mate said:

I've heard (though not tried it personally) that Vallejo paints don't like hairspray and don't chip well. Tamiya paints definitely do though, and can be left for anything up to 24 hours before chipping if necessary.

As for Tamia, it's true, I use them and it works.
A disaster can happen from the wrong hairspray. Not all hairsprays are suitable. I once bought a Taft hairspray (remember the bottle was black with gold letters) that melted Tamiya acrylic paint. I was lucky because I tried it first at the bottom of the tank. 
Looking at the photo, it is possible that you sprayed on a too thick layer of paint. I spray very thin, highly thinned layers of paint.

If too much paint peels off, it can be easily corrected. In this case, I partially paint over such areas with a sponge. Everything is like with chipping, just the vice versa, instead of dark steel, Dunkelgelb is used, that is, the color you painted.

I usually use not one but several layers of different shades with hairspray layers in between them. 

Imho, the more shades, the better the model looks.

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Vytautas

Edited by vytautas
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On 6/30/2021 at 8:56 AM, Ned said:

Well now, this morning it just looks even worse!

Onwards and upwards, mate. setbacks are only there to be overcome; and there's always mud as a last resort!🧑‍🔧

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Vallejo paints dry to a vinyl sheet on your model, and peels off in any which way you don't want it to. For the same reason it doesn't sand at all well either. Try Tamiya paints as suggested, which should work much better.

Edited by Arild Moland
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Thanks for your comments. I had another go last night using much less hairspray, and although the results were better I still found it took off too much paint and was uncontrollable. I wouldn't want to risk it on an expensive build.

I can understand it being down to the Vallejo paint, it doesn't like too much rough handling. I haven't used Tamiya paint for years, I found them awful back then, but that was all down to my lack of knowledge, using them straight from the bottle. Next time I place an order I'll add a couple and give it a go (will need another cheap big kit...)

 

Unhappy tank :)

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30 minutes ago, Ned said:

Unhappy tank

It's irritating when a new technique goes pear-shaped. I've been trying oil dot weathering - wrecked an SU152. Fortunately it was only a Pegasus Hobbies quick-build kit I got 2 for £10.50. It's sad one is gone as the pair looked quite good together. Still, one lives and one learns..........hopefully. :banghead:

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7 minutes ago, echen said:

It's irritating when a new technique goes pear-shaped. I've been trying oil dot weathering - wrecked an SU152. Fortunately it was only a Pegasus Hobbies quick-build kit I got 2 for £10.50. It's sad one is gone as the pair looked quite good together. Still, one lives and one learns..........hopefully. :banghead:

There's only one way to learn - buy more kits! 🤪

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  • 2 weeks later...

Cheers Longbow. I watched this one a while ago. He makes it look so easy. which I guess just comes with repetition of a learned technique. I'll have another go when I next do an order and can get some Tamiya paint.

I haven't had much time over the last week for much, I've just been getting the running gear done and the rubbery tracks prepped. I've been having some frustrating times with my airbrush lately, but managed to clean out a lump of crud that was the root cause so will be back onto it soon.

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  • 2 weeks later...
On 7/13/2021 at 12:37 PM, Ned said:

Cheers Longbow. I watched this one a while ago. He makes it look so easy. which I guess just comes with repetition of a learned technique. I'll have another go when I next do an order and can get some Tamiya paint.

I haven't had much time over the last week for much, I've just been getting the running gear done and the rubbery tracks prepped. I've been having some frustrating times with my airbrush lately, but managed to clean out a lump of crud that was the root cause so will be back onto it soon.

No problem, Ned. 
The trick I found, using Vallejo paint, was to use a smaller, stiff’ish brush, with absolutely minimal water. 
As soon as the paint starts to chip, move away from the area, to another spot. 
Them come back to the first area once it’s dried. 
 

It’s time consuming, but that way you can control the chipping. 

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