Jump to content

Russian PT-76B (03314) 1:72


Mike

Recommended Posts

Russian PT-76B (03314)

1:72 Revell

 

boxtop.jpg

 

The PT-76 was designed in the 50s, and the 76 relates to the size of the barrel, rather than the year, when Soviet tank doctrine became interested again in the light tank concept, and added the amphibious requirement to the mix to create a very capable platform that can ford a river without breaking stride, punch above its weight in a shooting match, and in later incarnations it was also fully NBC capable.   The PT-76B was an improvement on the original and could fire a new more potent armour piercing round, ran a new uprated engine, and had improved battlefield electronics to further increase the type’s capabilities.  It was in production from the 50s until the late 60s, and saw plenty of action, with many still in service today with a number of operators.

 

 

The Kit

This is another reboxing by Revell of a Toxso Model tooling, and there is a ton of detail included.  It arrives in a small end-opening box, with five sprues in grey styrene within, plus a small Photo-Etch (PE) fret, decal sheet and the instruction booklet, which has a length of fine wire taped to the front.  The origin of the tooling is less than 10 years old, and this shows in the level of detail included on the sprues, some of it thanks to slide-moulding.

 

sprue1.jpg

 

sprue2.jpg

 

pe.jpg

 

Construction begins with the low-profile “dalek” turret, which has a quartet of brackets fitted inside, then is outfitted with the detailed breech that fits into a ring glue into the bottom of the turret.  The two hatches, searchlight, spare track links, aerial base, and a choice of the NBC exhaust dome or its hooked extension.  The base for the extension has a pair of small sink-marks around the pipe, which should be easy enough to fill because the pipe is a separate part.  A pair of rails are arranged around the top of the turret, then the mantlet, hollow-muzzled barrel and the coaxial machine gun barrel complete the turret.

 

The lower hull has two water intake gratings moulded into the underside, and the two hull sides make up the rest of the lower.  Unusually, the road wheels are first attached to their suspension arms before they are fitted into the hull, with the drive sprockets and idlers installed first and some bump-stops that aren’t moulded-in (some are).  The wheels are glued to three styles of suspension arms, so take care which go where and follow the instructions carefully so that you end up with the pattern shown in a scrap diagram from the side.  The tracks are standard styrene lengths, and each run is made up from two parts that are wrapped around the road wheels and joined into a band to complete them.  The tracks are directional, so make sure you install them the correct way around by referring to the instructions.

 

The upper hull is assembled around the roof, with two side panels and the aft bulkhead that has the two water-jet exhausts and their covers moulded-in and glued on respectively.  The water pumps are depicted in full, complete with a two-part induction horn that runs from the intakes underneath to the exhausts at the back, and has the manoeuvring  jet take-off for the side vents too.  They are handed, and a scrap diagram shows their completed position within the upper hull.  Before the two halves are joined, the circular turret floor with a stool for the commander is inserted onto a short peg in the floor, which is directly under the turret ring once the upper hull is glued in place.  The completed assembly is decked out in pioneer tools, fuel canisters, hatch and vision blocks, headlamps, plus a few sundry small parts and the bow-wash deflector in front of the driver’s position on the glacis.  The engine deck has two separate hatches inserted into the holes, plus two PE grilles that glue over the other louvers, with some lifting handles added to the largest one.  Mudguards are added front and rear, a set of PE cages are folded up for the headlights, and on the left fender, a tapered pole is mounted on pins.  The turret is twisted into position to lock it into position, and using the wire supplied, you can make up the two towing cables using the styrene eyes that are included.  The photos I’ve seen online however show the cable as being braided, so you may want to look into that.  The supplied wire is also not as malleable as it could be, but it could be used as aerial wire to save wasting it.

 

Markings

There are two/three decal options on the sheet, both green as you may have expected.  From the box you can build one of the following:

 

  • Soviet Naval Infantry, unknown unit (with alternative turret codes)
  • Nationale Volksarmee DDR, 1970

 

profiles.jpg

 

decals.jpg

 

Decals are by Zanetti, which is a guarantee of good registration, sharpness and colour density, with a thin matt carrier film cut close to the printed areas.

 

completedmodel.jpg

 

 

Conclusion

It’s a nice kit with some features I wouldn’t have expected on a 1:72 kit, and somewhat advanced for its original release-date.  The inclusion of PE parts is just gravy.

 

Highly recommended.

 

Currently, Revell are unable to ship to the UK from their online shop due to recent changes in import regulations, but there are many shops stocking their products where you can pick up the kits either in the flesh or online.

 

 

bin.jpg

 

Revell model kits are available from all good toy and model retailers. For further information visit

 logo.jpg t_logo-a.png or facebook.gif

  • Like 3
  • Thanks 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...
  • 2 months later...

I would be wary of what it is, seems like Revell has continued its great tradition of messing up Russian vehicles! (I know it’s the old tosxo moulds. But Revell released it😁) the engine deck being recessed indicates a late B but the side height indicates a normal PT 76 the height of the sides should be a not insignificant 1.8mm higher at the turret ring and have a 4 degree slope towards the rear and although I have not confirmed it the front angle seems like only 45 degrees and not the 55 it should be ( I haven’t built I’d yet so it was only a rough measurement of the front angle) oddly the box art is correct 😁

Edited by Old pro
Additional information
  • Thanks 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 4 weeks later...

If you really want an in depth analysis of the problem with this kit,

https://www.tapatalk.com/groups/missinglynx/revell-pt-76b-for-those-interested-t329352.html
it is a nice kit, and for those who don’t worry about problems it looks to all intents and purposes like a PT 76. if you after building a specific vehicle or variant, then you will hit major problems.

 

  • Thanks 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
×
×
  • Create New...