Fixing Decals to Airfix Phantom 1/72

[Alan W]

HI,

 

I've built and painted the Airfix Phantom, kit no 04013 (I think that's right) but have had problems getting the large tail fin decals in place. Fortunately the kit came with a duplicate decal sheet so I can have another go.

 

When I tried the first time round I soaked the decal in warm water until it slid off the backing paper, then applied it to the glossy surface. As I wasn't quite satisfied with the positioning I tried to use water and a brush to adjust the position, and the decal disintegrated!

 

The decals are it seems to me very very thin.

 

I have ordered Micro Sol and Micro Set but never used them before. Any tips?

 

Thanks

[Mark Harmsworth]

I'm not quite clear on your method but with decals generally a quick dip in water then leave on a non-porous surface until it straightens out. Then the decal should move around on the backing paper and it can be applied to the model. From your description I think you left it in water too long. Decal softening products are useful once the decal is in place.

Mark

[Alan W]

You are correct, the decal was left in the water until it slid off the backing paper - so I take it out after say about 10 seconds then let it rest before trying to apply?

 

Do I apply anything to the model before the decal to make adjusting it easier?

 

Alan

[Dr. Quack]

I'm not aware of anything to apply to the model to specifically improve adjustability. All of the decal solutions I'm aware of (including Miro Sol / Set) will aid adhesion or allow the decal to follow irregular contours and do so by softening the decal material.

 When I've been in the position of needing to move an adherent decal which can't be safely moved with a brush, then I've applied a water drop to one edge of the transfer and carefully lifted that edge with a pointed brush tip, allowing the water to run under by capillary action. This usually allows some adjustment or even complete repositioning - it is sometimes possible to fully mobilise a decal by carefully sweeping the brush under it until it is released. Care is definitely required otherwise thin transfers can curl up or tear.

 

Hope that helps.

Q

[Alan W]

12 hours ago, Dr. Quack said:

I'm not aware of anything to apply to the model to specifically improve adjustability. All of the decal solutions I'm aware of (including Miro Sol / Set) will aid adhesion or allow the decal to follow irregular contours and do so by softening the decal material.

 When I've been in the position of needing to move an adherent decal which can't be safely moved with a brush, then I've applied a water drop to one edge of the transfer and carefully lifted that edge with a pointed brush tip, allowing the water to run under by capillary action. This usually allows some adjustment or even complete repositioning - it is sometimes possible to fully mobilise a decal by carefully sweeping the brush under it until it is released. Care is definitely required otherwise thin transfers can curl up or tear.

 

Hope that helps.

Q

Thank you for that explanation - it was gently running a brush across the top of the decal loaded with water that led to its destruction! Not an issue I have had with Tamiya decals which I have been able to adjust in this way but definitely a method to note and be wary of with some of the decal sets I am now buying.

[Alan W]

Ok, still not having any luck with these decals.

 

I dipped in water for a short period then left on a piece of plasticard to straighten.

 

As soon as I touched it to move it on the backing paper the decal broke up.

 

Are they simply too old? Should I try using Liquid Decal Film or give them up as a bad job?

[CasualModel98]

To move decals you almost need to "float" them by applying a lot of water. I think the decal disintegrated as some parts of the decal was till stuck.  Gently move the decal until the entire decal is freemoving or else apply more water underneath.  Do not apply any softening solution when moving the decal as these will soften and weaken the decal.

[Alan W]

Hi CasualModel98,

 

Thanks for your advice. I definitely think however that the decals are either faulty/too thin or have decayed due to age. (probably 20 years since I brought the kit)

 

I gave up on decaling the Phantom and moved on to my Spitfire and Dakota, both of which I have been able to apply the decals on and adjust positioning with a fine brush and water, as you suggest.

 

I'm thinking of using the liquid decal film on one or two smaller decals then if that works have a go with the tail fin decals from the spare sheet. Otherwise it's £10 or so for a new sheet.

[iainpeden]

Alan

When I first read this I assumed that you were discussing the recent Phantom FGR.2 (British F-4s).

However I now realise that you are talking about the older Airfix kit. That probably means your decals were printed sometime in the 1980s and are past their shelf life.

However, all is not lost and you have 2 options. First is to use a coat or 2 of microsol decal film which may save the sheet; the 2nd option is to pm me the unit marking you are after because I probably have a spare in my stash.

 

You find the same with many older decals (never trust anything over 10 years old); in particular the older Esci ones break up as soon as there is a cloud in the sky - slight exaggeration but only just!

Get in touch and I'll try to help

Iain

 

(Whose current Phantom collection stands at 185 with far too many decal sheets in store!)

[stevehnz]

@Alan W have a look at this method for decals, it should solve your problems I feel. If you don't have Klear or an equivalent, do a search on here for it, there are alternatives out there.

Steve.

[Alan W]

Thanks Iain, pm sent.

 

Thanks Steve for the link.