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Good morning fine folks of BM.

 

Now then, I new this may happen, my modelling interests are shifting and I find myself looking more at figures and vignettes, the two are bedfellows and make fine projects but I have a few questions if I may.

 

I only have 3 figures, a set from CGS Military Figures. WB01,WB02 and WB03. the first, Field Marshal Von Bulcher, the second Emperor Napolean Bonapart and last but not least, Authur Wellesley, 1st Duke of Wellington. This set is superb with crisp casting and incredible detail and I want to do it justice.

 

Firstly, what are the best brushes, brand and size for figure painting and how best to maintain tip condition? I purchased some Abteilung 502 Gel for brushes but it seems to set and is not easy to remove from brush....unless of coarse I am doing something wrong, which is most probable. Smells great though.😆

 

Secondly, I have found this book; https://www.aviationbookcentre.com/general_modelling/faq_figure_painting_techniques_/21014_p.html.

 It weighs in at a very hefty £75.00 so is it any good or worth it? If not, any other recommendations please?

 

Lastly, I hear more and more about a 'wet palette, I get the idea of what it is, shelf explanatory really, but what is the principle behind it and does it make a difference?

 

I won't be giving up on winged things and other distractions but I feel this subject has a more 'human' involvement with it and I am finding it more of interest.

Thanks for looking

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3 hours ago, Head in the clouds. said:

Good morning fine folks of BM.

 

Now then, I new this may happen, my modelling interests are shifting and I find myself looking more at figures and vignettes, the two are bedfellows and make fine projects but I have a few questions if I may.

 

I only have 3 figures, a set from CGS Military Figures. WB01,WB02 and WB03. the first, Field Marshal Von Bulcher, the second Emperor Napolean Bonapart and last but not least, Authur Wellesley, 1st Duke of Wellington. This set is superb with crisp casting and incredible detail and I want to do it justice.

 

Firstly, what are the best brushes, brand and size for figure painting and how best to maintain tip condition? I purchased some Abteilung 502 Gel for brushes but it seems to set and is not easy to remove from brush....unless of coarse I am doing something wrong, which is most probable. Smells great though.😆

 

Secondly, I have found this book; https://www.aviationbookcentre.com/general_modelling/faq_figure_painting_techniques_/21014_p.html.

 It weighs in at a very hefty £75.00 so is it any good or worth it? If not, any other recommendations please?

 

Lastly, I hear more and more about a 'wet palette, I get the idea of what it is, shelf explanatory really, but what is the principle behind it and does it make a difference?

 

I won't be giving up on winged things and other distractions but I feel this subject has a more 'human' involvement with it and I am finding it more of interest.

Thanks for looking

 

As someone who's been doing 28mm figs for a while, and (more recently) larger scale busts, I'll venture a few thoughts. No doubt others will be along in due course as well. It's a very different skill set than aircraft modelling, so don't get discouraged if it seems baffling at first!

 

(All the advice below assumes you'll be painting with acrylics,)

 

Brushes: You'll be wanting a small selection of decent natural (kolinsky) sable brushes for detail painting, as well as some cheaper synthetics for base coating and less detailed work. To some extent the brand is a matter of preference, but Winsor & Newton Series 7, Rosemary and Co, and Raphael are all generally well thought of in the sable department. In terms of size, I would personally say one each of size 0,1,and 2 would be enough. If cost is an issue, perhaps just a size 1, with synthetic alternatives for the larger sizes. Try to avoid the temptation to go for the really tiny sizes (00 3/0, 6/0, etc.) as these hardly hold any paint and you'll get just as fine a point on (say) a size 0 or 1.

 

Especially with the sables, don't get paint more than halfway up the bristles to avoid it wicking into the ferrule; a sure way to ruin them in the long run. Other than that, rinse them out well asap after use, and don't jam them down in the water jar to avoid damaging the bristles. (It sounds like the gel you're using might need a soak in water to remove). Masters Brush Soap is often recommended for brush care - it's pretty mild.

 

Resources: The book you've linked to is great (I have it), but also pricey, as you probably noticed. If you think you'll be painting a lot of figures it may be a worthwhile investment. There's a lot you can pick up from Youtube as well. Here's a selection from channels I subscribe to.

 

Basics (mainly smaller scales, but techniques all relevant): 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=v-BlVYFxfRA

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=I7hWnZycZxE&t=122s

 

Busts (Vince Venturella has a great channel with useful videos on various topics):

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_yy7Lz90iZM&t=130s

 

Wet Palette: Definitely worth it if you're using acrylics, which tend to dry out rapidly on a regular palette. At the very least they'll keep your paint usable for most of a painting session, by slowly drawing water up into the paint by osmosis. You can make one cheaply from a plastic food tub, thin sponge, and parchment baking paper. Images of mine below the links. They can also be bought if you're after an off-the-shelf option. 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JzGae5S828k

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yQDOSnhtIyw

 

51244859290_f97c145af4_o.jpg  51243803611_da9d0f681d_o.jpg

 

Best of luck! Feel free to come back with any questions.

J.

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Thank you Jason, a very comprehensive answer to all of my questions. As you say, others will have other preferences, I feel that can be the longest road in modelling, finding what suites you across the spectrum of tools, paints styles etc.

 

Great tip on brush care, I think I may overload my brushes somewhat and that is what my be ruining them, my feeling is for figure or bust painting less is more.

 

As for the book, I am a lover of the printed word and a good book is always worth the investment, I do find many articles in magazines a little vague on detail of 'technique ' sometimes and leaves me with more questions than answers. Onto the gift list it goes then...😆

 

Probably will be using acrylics, although my understanding is Tamiya are no good with hairy sticks but Vellejo are better in this respect. Could you suggest any others please.

 

Cheers

 

Gary

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Gary,

 

I'd avoid Tamiya for figures, definitely the wrong tool for the job, unless airbrushed for a base coat. There is an ever increasing (and baffling!) range of paints suitable for figure painting. If you like to fondle before purchase, then it might be a case of whatever your local shop has, and if you're anything like me, you'll end up buying paints compulsively!

 

- Vallejo (Huge selection, widely available) Most of their ranges are suitable for brush painting, Vallejo Air is actually thinned to a rather good consistency for hairy stick.

- AK Interactive (New '3rd Gen' range is getting good reviews)

- Citadel/Games Workshop (Good range, 'Base' paints have good coverage, poor whites)

- MIG Ammo 

- Pro Acryl (been impressed with the ones I've got)

- Scale 75 (gel medium - can be tricky to get to grips with, 'Fantasy and Games' range is more regular in consistency)

 

Element Games are a good online shop, and stock many of the lines above.

 

Most if not all should be thinned to some degree; one cardinal sin that many first time figure painters commit is to put paint on too thickly. Always assume that more than one coat will be needed to get adequate coverage.

 

J.

 

 

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3 hours ago, Head in the clouds. said:

although my understanding is Tamiya are no good with hairy sticks

Myth. works fine , but needs to be thinned with a small amount of water,(I use de-ionised, sold in supermarkets for irons)  which has had a say, 5% flow improver added. I use a pallete and small syringe, aim for milk consistency,  and for larger areas, use a flat brush, same for all the acrylics I have found.   The water stops the paint drying too fast, flow improver lowers surface tension.  

 

the water/FI mix is made in  the syringe.  

Same works for Vallejo, though Vallejo is better for figure work.

I'm a fan of doing the  base colours, adding a wash of artist oil diluted with lighter fuel, burnt umber is good (Lighter fuel  is the trick, its makes a very very thin wash, that flows into any detail, and evaporates fast, and the oil dries fast too) 

 this wash can be pushed about and removed with a brush wetted with LF.  You can dry rush some of the base colour on the highlights.  Does need a matt varnish as shiny otherwise.

 

makes adding fine dark outlines much easier

 

this is how this was done, 1/32nd Airfix Paratrooper

49823226142_7d5b2c1400_b.jpg

 

more info here

https://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?/topic/235072084-132-airfix-paratrooper-officer/

 

also

https://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?/topic/235054365-airfix-132nd-us-paratroopers/

 

 

for brushes

https://www.artsupplies.co.uk/item-the-masters-brush-cleaner-and-preserver.htm

 

I find acrylics tend to build up in the brush, this does a great job of cleaning that  out.  

 

My brushes are nothing special.  

HTH

 

PS the uniform on this is Tamiya

48346776227_a73a383078_b.jpg

 

https://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?/topic/235058385-airfix-132nd-commandosnot-the-best-pics/

 

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Great pointers there Troy, I have heard of lighter fuel being used somewhere before but the way you use it makes sound sense.

 

I think a cross section of paints are the way forward then with Tamiya among them.

 

I do have some flow improver but never use it for some reason, just forget it's there really. Must remember to use them more.

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