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Project 3 - 1990 Toyota celica safari rally winner


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Hi and welcome to the build thread for my third model. Its a Toyota Celica GT four 165. To be more precise i'm building the 1990 safari rally wining car sponsored by rep sol as a challenge to myself to improve the quality of both my decal work and white paint finishes. The kit is made by Aoshima /beemax and so far I have to say my initial impression is that there is lots of fine details and the quality of the mouldings appear to be top notch.

I dry assembled a lot of the kit in two sections looking for any potential problems and apart from the roll cage being a potential pain in the neck if the c7r I built as my first project was anything to go by I could only find two areas which I predict could cause me a few headaches. The first is the suspension as I found it akward to line it up correctly however when I finally got it right it seemed like a matter of alignment. The other potential issue is some of the holes are a snug fit before I add paint in to the mix but again i think this wont be to bad of an issue. My current plan is to drill out any of the peg slots if I cant get the parts to fit correctly as a last resort.

I am considering drilling out the brake disks with my new pin vice kit they wont be to visible should I goof it up and it will be good practice for when I build my next bike kit should I match the drill bit to the existing indents ? Would I be better of to do this before or after I have painted them in the base coat?

Had I thought of it I would of taken some pictures of the sprews before I started but I didn't think to so here are some pictures of the parts I have primed so far. I have had my first covid jab today and its knocked me for six so i haven't been able to get as much done as i would like to have done.

 

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10 hours ago, Scottey_b said:

Should I match the drill bit to the existing indents ? Would I be better of to do this before or after I have painted them in the base coat?

 

I've not done this before but if I was, yes I'd match the drillbit to the indents, and I'd do it before painting.  Looking forward to watching the thread.

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3 hours ago, galaxyg said:

 

I've not done this before but if I was, yes I'd match the drillbit to the indents, and I'd do it before painting.  Looking forward to watching the thread.

 

I just tried it a little while ago and it's not noticeable enough at this scale to make it worth doing as the paint fills some of the hole back in however I will definitely try it again on a 1/12 scale  bike or car kit as it would be a lot more noticeable 

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I drill the brake discs on bikes now and it works very well. As Galaxyg says do it before painting because there's a bit of crud left that needs sanding down.👍

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I built this kit about a year ago  . It went together well  , only problem area  , I remember being the front grille / pop up lights .

Following with interest 

Gary . 

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2 hours ago, Stef N. said:

I drill the brake discs on bikes now and it works very well. As Galaxyg says do it before painting because there's a bit of crud left that needs sanding down.👍

 

Thanks Stef N its definitely something I will be doing on my next bike build. I have just drilled out the exhaust tip I will have to re prime that area a bit but it definitely adds some depth to the exhaust when the exhaust is done I will put up some pictures so you can let me know what you  all think of it.

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20 minutes ago, Windy37 said:

I built this kit about a year ago  . It went together well  , only problem area  , I remember being the front grille / pop up lights .

Following with interest 

Gary . 

 

Thanks for the heads up windy I will be extra cautious with these areas now that I am aware of it 

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23 hours ago, Scottey_b said:

 

...The other potential issue is some of the holes are a snug fit before I add paint in to the mix but again i think this wont be to bad of an issue. My current plan is to drill out any of the peg slots if I cant get the parts to fit correctly as a last resort.

 

 

It needn't be a last resort to drill the holes for the pegs if the fit is too tight due to paint - I've often resorted to this and the plus is that with no paint on the contact you can get a stronger bond. It's certainly a much better option than trying to force a part in where it won't quite fit.

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I have had a bit of a more productive day today as the side effects of my first covid jab have worn of considerably i still have a numb arm and stiff shoulder but its not going to stop me painting and its a small price to pay if it stops me getting covid. Anyway i have managed to prime 75% of the kit. I have also drilled out the exhaust tip and experimented with drilling the brake discs. They have been primed and painted in alacad steel. This is my new go to brake color. I have also started painting the front skid plate,  I think that is what its called. Its gone a nice dirty  yellow color. i will be adding the white details and going over the bolts with a grey or black paint i haven't decided which yet.

The last thing i did was attempt to paint the wheels a nice white. I have started using the Mr hobby aqueous paints and i have had a slight hiccup. The mig one shot primer has bleed through the paint so i am going to have to strip it all off and start again with a different primer. No matter how many coats i put on it kept bleeding through after each layer dried the edges faded back. Im just glad it was the wheels and not the main shell. I have  the choice of mr surfacer white or ump white primer. I would have rather used something a touch darker so i could make sure its all covered however if its white any bleed through it should be less noticeable if i prime it in white. 

Any recommendations on which primer to try next i have had good success with the darker mr hobby primers previously but i have yet to try the white primer. and i had a couple of problems with some of the other ump primers reacting with the paints on the vfr build. 

 

any suggestions to stop the bleed through happening again would be appreciated as well as any recomendations as to which primer to go with.

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