What tool works best to remove PE from the sheet?

[Stalker6Recon]

Hello all, I need some advice on what tool works best to cut PE off the sheet? I have seen mainly xuron cutters, but in the Philippines, they are very hard to find. I know that I can also use a flat edge razor blade, and gently rock it back and forth, but I prefer to have the right tool for the job, to avoid accidents/damage and leave the lowest amount of clean up possible.

 

Suggestions will be appreciated greatly,

 

Anthony

[Dr. Quack]

I tend to use a scalpel blade and rest the PE fret on a surplus wall tile. The tile is rigid, unlike a cutting mat, and the part therefore does not distort with pressure. Taking care it is possible to trim a part without leaving any fret stub to cut back.

Everybody probably has their own method.

Q

[busnproplinerfan]

I used a beat up xacto on a hard block of wood. Worked sort of ok. Have to finish the edge a bit. I do have a cutter tool but with tiny parts, they could go flying. I’ll have to try the tile to. I just know to put small bits on tape.

[dnl42]

A round-edge blade on glass or tile. The round-edge can be rolled over the part to be cut. The glass or tile prevents deformation of the part. Be sure to hold the to-be-cut part firmly to avoid a hyperspace jump. A 4-cut Swiss-pattern needle file run along (not across) the edge cleans it up.

 

Mr Metal Primer readies the part for painting.

 

HTH

-- 

dnl

[Black Knight]

I put some double sided sticky tape on an old piece of a cutting mat. The p/e is pressed onto that then I use a number 10 blade in a SM no 3 handle to cut through the p/e tag. A number 10 blade has a curved cutting edge;

https://assets.londongraphics-static.co.uk/media/catalog/product//L/-/L-7518000073_Swann_Morton_No._10_Scalpel_Blades.jpg

[JeffreyK]

Another vote for a round edge blade on a hard surface, my preference is a large steel ruler, but glass or ceramic tile are fine as well. You simply roll the blade over the connecting tab, repeat until it breaks. I have Xuron cutters as well, but I find the can distort or even destroy delicate PE parts.

Jeffrey

[Scimitar F1]

17 minutes ago, JeffreyK said:

Another vote for a round edge blade on a hard surface, my preference is a large steel ruler, but glass or ceramic tile are fine as well. You simply roll the blade over the connecting tab, repeat until it breaks. I have Xuron cutters as well, but I find the can distort or even destroy delicate PE parts.

Jeffrey

And to keep the blade nice and sharp get a small whetstone off eBay for a couple of pounds - you will basically never need a new blade again.

[Stalker6Recon]

Good suggestions all, especially the tape to prevent premature launch to the carpet monster. Sounds like the consensus is a good old fashioned razor knife, so no reason to spend the piggy bank for a specific tool. It seems to reason that no matter what scale PE you work with, the tabs should generally be the same size. Since I work mostly in 35th, the parts remain a bit larger than some of the ship scales, a bit easier to keep track of. I also have several wet stones and even a diamond set of sharpening plates that I have yet to try, probably perfect for razor blades. I will leave the stones for the big jobs in the kitchen.

 

Thanks to all, you have lowered my anxiety quite a bit!

 

Cheers,

 

Anthony

[Ray_W]

On 6/12/2021 at 10:43 AM, Stalker6Recon said:

I have seen mainly xuron cutters, but in the Philippines, they are very hard to find.

 

That's a shame, easily one of the best bits of kit I possess.  Usually you can remove without having to clean up the nub or if need be go back and remove micro slivers. I have had them for years, done heaps of work, take care of them and still never re-sharpened. Apologies my reply is not helpful in your case.

 

My fall back position is @Black Knight's method although I do find removal from the double sided tape can be a problem and alternatively may tape the fret down, keep the required piece free, lightly clamp it with a sharpened wax positioning pencil ("picker pencil") held in my free hand and scalpel cut with the other. Much of the PE I use these days is quite soft or I anneal and have found a straight blade 10A will do the job for small pieces. I just find it easier and more accurate - a me thing. 

 

The picker pencil is also very useful for positioning small PE to avoid the "ping" tendency of tweezers. The real reason I have them.

 

Ray

 

 

[dromia]

I use a round blade on a piece of HDPE (kitchen cutting boards are made from the stuff). It is stiff so as to support the piece and allow a clean cut rather than bending it but is softer than glass or ceramic so it doesn't rapidly dull the blade as ceramic and glass does.

[Stalker6Recon]

Excellent points all, especially like the wax pencil to hold down the part while cutting the stub. You may have the answer for the next question regarding the xuron. It appears that the primary cutter is the 9180, but it apparently comes in different blade types. Serrated blades and non-serrated, the "xuron 9180NS". If I do find one thag doesn't cost me a leg and my first born, what type do you recommend? Well nevermind, I just found the details on xurons website. They make the 9180NS for cutting arymid yarn(sp), basically Kevlar used in fiber optic cables as a pull string. I used to work in IT,  so have lots of experience with that. The one modelers need, is the 9180ET (etch, or photoetch).

 

It's difficult, but not impossible to buy here in the Philippines, just got to deal with aliexpress or ebay and hope not to get killed by the shipping cost or ridiculous time it takes to arrive. The average package take more than 2 months to arrive. I will keep an eye out for the ET model, anything to make the job easier is exactly what I need. My hand/eye coordination has taken a tumble as my age goes ever skyward.

 

Cheers,

 

Anthony

[Stalker6Recon]

7 minutes ago, dromia said:

I use a round blade on a piece of HDPE (kitchen cutting boards are made from the stuff). It is stiff so as to support the piece and allow a clean cut rather than bending it but is softer than glass or ceramic so it doesn't rapidly dull the blade as ceramic and glass does.

Good call, I can buy a tiny board here for about a dollar. Just to be certain, you are talking about the white plastic cutting board found in nearly every kitchen?

 

Thanks,

 

Anthony

[dromia]

Yes that is the stuff, I got a couple of 4" square 1/2" thick pieces as free samples from an online supplier.

[dromia]

The xurons you want are the 9180, they cut etch well and cleanly, however must etch manufacturers leave little space on the fret to get the cutters in to make a clean cut at the correct angle hence my preference for the craft blade and HDPE.

Edited June 13, 2021 by dromia

[busnproplinerfan]

I forgot. I also sometimes get close with the cut and use a small file or the sanding drum on my dremmel to clean the nib off. Plastic cutting board might be a good choice. Wonder if some other hard scrap plastic would work to.

[Ray_W]

38 minutes ago, dromia said:

The xurons you want are the 9180

 

Also a vote for the 9180 and agree sometimes difficult to get in close. I will even knife cut to remove and trim with the Xuron. They're that good.

 

Only use them for PE and careful of the condition of the tips so you can get in close. 

 

Ray

[Stalker6Recon]

49 minutes ago, dromia said:

xurons you want are the 9180

Thats what I saw on their website. But you have to be careful, the cutters have extentions, like NS (non-serrated) and ET (etch, or photo etch). When buying, its important to get the correct ET version. I would hope that most decent model shops only carry the ET model, but it definitely pays to make certsin they have the correct cutters. I doubt the cutters for Kevlar will hold up against metal, since it's not designed for such work.

 

Upon double checking the site, the NS is still for metal, but the ET is specifically designed for photo etch, as seen in the picture below.

 

 

Here is a link to their website.

https://xuron.com/index.php/main/consumer_products/4/78

 

Cheers,

 

Anthony

 

 

 

[dromia]

22 minutes ago, busnproplinerfan said:

I forgot. I also sometimes get close with the cut and use a small file or the sanding drum on my dremmel to clean the nib off. Plastic cutting board might be a good choice. Wonder if some other hard scrap plastic would work to.

Afore I got the HDPE I used DVDs, not as good as the HDPE but definitely better than glass/ceramic, acrylic perhaps?

 

Regarding the Xurons mine just say 9180 on the tangs and they seem to be made for cutting brass, as has been said I only use them for that purpose.

[Ray_W]

1 minute ago, dromia said:

Regarding the Xurons mine just say 9180

 

Mine are the same. They just say 9180 and were advertised for PE a few years ago. Maybe Xuron have since added to their 9180 range. Mine do not have a serrated blade.

 

 

[dromia]

That is the same as my tang and mine has no serrations either.

[Ray_W]

And it is an easy query to respond to as it is just what I am doing at the moment. 

 

 

[Stalker6Recon]

10 hours ago, Ray_W said:

And it is an easy query to respond to as it is just what I am doing at the moment.

That leads right into my next question. What tools do you use to fold and glue PE parts. Is using a soldering iron the only method to seal up PE joints, like boxes made of PE. Is soldering safe for painted PE parts? What size/wattage soldering iron is required for such intricate work?

 

Thanks in advance,

 

Anthony

[dnl42]

I have been using The Bug for quite a few years. Very handy and compact, The top rotates to expose different tools and its small size means it's easy to manipulate. I'm sure somebody will suggest alternatives.

 

Be careful using tweezers to hold PE. Squeeze too tight and you'll end up with a hyperspace jump. This is also one of the reasons to have good tweezers as they'll launch fewer parts. Some people use wax pencils; there is also Pulpdent Pic-n-Stic. I've had OK success with these things but do give it a try.

 

Thin CA wicks very nicely into well-folded parts. @Heather Kay is one of our soldering experts; she can comment further.

 

I mostly use thin or medium CA to attach small PE parts or medium and large parts with edge joints. For surface bonds I recommend a flexible glue, like Zap Formula 560 Canopy Glue or a PVA.

 

HTH

-- 

dnl

[Ray_W]

Hi Anthony, 

 

What size PE and application are you bending? I saw your sensible response in the other post: https://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?/topic/235087149-recommended-size-of-pe-bending-tool/

 

 I am mainly building aircraft and AFV and The Bug meet my needs. No long ship railings. I also use tweezers, square edged flat pliers (these were cheap ones and I dressed the edge) and smooth round pliers. They seem to meet my needs. Square edged pliers for PE folding are available. 

 

 

I  also just use thin CA to wick in on joins, where needed, and a gel CA for some attachment requirements. I have always been inspired to do some soldering based on videos like the following from Paul Budzik but due to my circumstances - rarely at the home workbench - have found the CA solutions meet my need.  

 

 

Plasmo's video is also practical.

 

 

Ray

 

[Heather Kay]

2 hours ago, dnl42 said:

one of our soldering experts; she can comment further

I think the videos linked by Ray answer most questions.