Time to attach the canopy ...

[aharris57]

Firstly thanks to everyone who replied to my Hunter colour scheme worries on the cold war forum.  I now have a new source of anxiety.  I've reached canopy and windscreen attachment time and come to a halt as I'm scared stiff of screwing up the glueing process.  I have ready many threads on PVA, Clearfix, UV resins.  The chap at the model shop reckons I should just stick with my liquid polystyrene cement and go carefully to get the best bond.  I need a good join all round as I'm going for a closed canopy and I'll be airbrushing the whole lot when masked up.

 

So, should I just throw caution to the wind and go for it?

 

[aharris57]

Also, which order to work in?  Windscreen to canopy then the whole lot to the fuse in one go, or windscreen first to fuse, canopy next, or canopy first then windscreen?  So much to think about!   

Edited June 11, 2021 by aharris57
Author's stupidity

[theplasticsurgeon]

Has your canopy been dunked in Klear - or its current equivalent?

If not then you'r risking fogging with cement.

I dunk all my canopies for that crystal-like finish, then attach with Clearfix.

 

 

As for which first.   Windscreen to aircraft, that's a permanent joint, hopefully without gaps.

[aharris57]

Thanks @theplasticsurgeon.  Windscreen first then, excellent. 

 

You have Klear (Pledge Revive it / Pledge Multi-Surface Wax) available in the UK.  A fair bit of googling suggested nothing similar is on sale down here in Australia - had hoped to go into my local supermarket and pick it off the shelf, but no such luck.  Australians: what do you gyus use for canopy dipping now?  Cheers.

[theplasticsurgeon]

Pledge One Go.

Company making it is S.C. Johnston.

 

[Shin]

an alternate option - I polish the canopy instead of coating it with anything. This was for clarity though, not for preventing fogging. I used to use PVA glue to attach my canopy pieces (assuming good fit), but my last couple I went with Tamiya Extra Thin (I assume it's similar to the Plastic Magic in your photo) and didn't have any issues with fogging. I think after I saw none of the clear pieces I was using TET fogged up (smaller pieces on armor or other aircraft), it was safe to use on canopy.

 

Obviously the downside is if you ever need to get back in, you won't be able to - whereas PVA you could potentially pop it off.

[AltcarBoB]

My last 3 builds I have used Ultra Violet setting resin. It's optically clear but takes paint quite well, it can also fill small gaps. I mucked up the first time I used it but I carefully split the joint with a new 10A scalpel blade scraped off the resin with a fingernail and reglued.

[lesthegringo]

On 6/22/2021 at 8:01 PM, AltcarBoB said:

My last 3 builds I have used Ultra Violet setting resin. It's optically clear but takes paint quite well, it can also fill small gaps. I mucked up the first time I used it but I carefully split the joint with a new 10A scalpel blade scraped off the resin with a fingernail and reglued.

Agree with this, UV resins also give you the chance to apply and clean up excess before comitting to curing it, plus you can push the clear parts fully into place and cure; very helpful when the canopy part is curved slightly differently to the locating part.

 

Les