F4F-4 Wildcat B5N2 Kate Airfix Dogfight Double

[VT Red Sox Fan]

Hello everyone,

 

This entry will focus on building up Airfix's rendition of the Sakae 11 engine.  While not a radial, I took inspiration from G's @giemme 1/32 Stuka build  along with some of Martin's @RidgeRunner colorful builds.  As I am learning, WW2 Axis aircraft require a certain amount of judgement on detail colors and I have done my best to outline base information and the inferences I have made.  That said, I know there is a tremendous bench of talent and knowledge on this blog, so I welcome any perspectives on where I missed the bulls eye.  I am always reminded of Johnny @The Spadgent when he said something to the effect that the correct info always appears after the final air brush coat 🙌

 

I decided to base the colors of this Sakae 11 build on the A6M2's better known Sakae 21 engine.  Given the paucity of color info on the early war -11, I decided the better known -21 would provide a good basis since it is from the same manufacturer (Nakajima), engine family and timeframe. 

 

For this build, I used Airfix's engine and first painted the exhausts crankcase and cylinders Tamiya AS-12 to create a metallic lacquer base for follow on enamels/acrylics on all engine parts.  I then attempted to create heat produced discoloration on the exhausts by layering airbrush coats of Alclad Burnt metal, Alclad Jed Exhaust and Alclad Hot Metal Sepia.  I then used Tamiya enamel wash on the cylinders--I was torn about this as I understand early war Sakae family engines had their cylinders painted black, but the book, Wings of the Rising Sun has really good Allied photos of the captured Alaskan Zero engine--the cylinders are clearly black but normal wear is seen on the cooling fins.  This falls in line with what @Nick Millman points out in his Combat Colors No 9 on the Zero.  In order to achieve the desire effect of darker cylinders, I simply applied multiple coats of Black Tamiya Accent Wash till I was at "the looks about right stage."

 

I then brush painted the crankcase Mission Models FS 16473 MMP-102 and then painted the bolts in a NMF--I find Mission Models paints work out great brush painted for small details.  The crankcase color choice was hard for me to make as some builds are silver while others are grey.  In the end I did not go with a NMF crankcase as I believe this would have been unlikely this early in the war(I am no expert though).  I then brush painted the ignition lines Alclad Airframe Aluminum--for some reason Alclad works well for me on small details.  Following the basic colors, I then weathered the engine with AK Engine Wash and Engine Oil.

 

 I then used AK pigments to further build up the exhaust high heat area and attached to the airframe.  I decided to paint the cowling Mr Color No 125 Cowling Color as it is pointed out in some sources that cowling color was an IJN standard vice manufacturer standard. 

 

Cylinders with photo etch leads

 

 

 

 

Up next will be the cowling, prop, flaps, torpedo and wheel wells--hopefully, I might actually join @opus999 and finish my WW2 Japanese aircraft build🤣. Thanks for looking and thanks for any thoughts folks might have--best, Erwin 

Edited March 4, 2022 by VT Red Sox Fan
grammer

[RidgeRunner]

Well, you are ahead of me Erwin @VT Red Sox Fan as I have never used Alclad lacquers. I often think I will try them but get put off by reports of high fume levels. I might give them a try at some point to prove to myself that they are okay :).

 

Martin

[giemme]

Heck of a job on that engine, Erwin!  Definitely looking the biz! 

 

Ciao

[The Spadgent]

Thats a lot of metallic looking pots that went into that engine. Looking snazzy. 🤩

 

 Johnny.

[opus999]

That engine looks terrific!  It makes it hard to believe its 1/72.

[VT Red Sox Fan]

Thanks @RidgeRunner, @giemme, @The Spadgent & @opus999 —really appreciate your inputs—best, Erwin

[VT Red Sox Fan]

Hope everyone is doing well--finally found some time to provide a quick update on my glacial paced Kate build.    I hope Johnny @The Spadgent notices, but I used Flory wash for the first time--it is awesome stuff and will now be a regular addition to my builds. 🙌 Not much to add to the forum's knowledge, it works as advertised and is VERY forgiving.  I used Dark Dirt Weathering Wash for the general airframe and Light Weathering Wash for the darker cowling areas. Once the wash was complete I took the masks off the canopy (couldn't wait any more) and started to focus on finishing touches starting with control surfaces and Microscale Krystal Klear for the navigation lights. (These will be painted appropriate Tamiya clear color later)

 

 

 

 

Once the overall airframe was washed, I focused on the wheel wells, landing gear, prop and cowling.  I used Nakajima built A6M2 paint references from Nick Millman as the basis for interpreting these colors.  I decided to go with an Aotake wheel well color based on Zero painting guidlines (I believe the controversy is if this area was painted the airframe color or aotake).  Also, I decided to go with dull aluminum struts vice the gloss black struts on the A6M based on multiple period photos.  I used foil for the bare metal/shiny shock absorbers and used the Eduard set for the oleos, brake lines and various interior bits around the well.  Airfix did an amazing job with the landing gear on this model--the struts fit perfectly angled.  With gear installed, I touched up over spray ares in the well and used various AK landing gear weathering products to add depth and wear.  

 

I went back and forth with using the gear doors supplied by Airfix, vice those in the PE set.  In the end, I settled on the kit doors as the interior of these parts looked more convincing.  While probably a smudge out of scale thickness, I believe the details on the plastic are more convincing as the photo etch looks too flat when compared to period photos.   Once the gear doors were installed I used AK Kerosene effects around the fuel tank fueling points and around the underside's engine areas where oil would have likely leaked.   

 

The cowling went on perfectly with no hassles.  I then used a technique I saw either G @giemme, Johnny @The Spadgent or Bill @billn53 use for attaching photo etch to their aircraft for this Kate's torpedo targeting sight. (Gents, apologize I cant remember who)  First, I used the actual Eduard part to mark the location of the sight on the cowl, then drilled shallow pilot holes and finalized with CA glue.  I then used CA kicker on a tooth pick to dry everything up.  I then painted the PE sight and the glue areas Tamiya Flat Black given that my research indicated these surfaces needed to be non-reflective vice the deep glossy IJN blue/black cowling color.  Finally I installed the kit prop (painted Alclad Aircraft aluminum in the front/ Tamiya Flat Black for the back of the blades--this rear blade color was a bit of a leap/judgement for me--I understand the A6M2 Zero prop back were generally a reddish brown--I nearly went that route, but given Hasegawa and Airfix both call for flat black, I decided to go with their research)

 

 

 

 

 

Weathered gear and wheel well touch ups for paint over spray

 

AK landing gear effects washes used and gear doors installed.  Also kerosene stains for fuel points and engine leaks on underside 

 

 

 

Up next will be the Type 91 torpedo build/install and then the final touches.  Thank you all for looking, patience with my pace, encouragement and your willingness to share knowledge and the joy of the hobby.  Now if only I could find a shark mouth Kate to join @opus999's amazingly toothed Typhoon!  Happy building--Best, Erwin 

Edited March 23, 2022 by VT Red Sox Fan
grammer

[billn53]

Nice technique with the targeting sight, but it wasn’t me you got it from. Must have been one of those other guys 😆

 

This (your build) is looking really great, by the way!!!

[mark.au]

Definitely worth the wait for that update.  Great work Erwin.

[giemme]

Agreed, definitely worth the wait - excellent progress, Erwin   

 

Ciao

[opus999]

There's some nice weathering going on there!  Looks great!

[The Spadgent]

Excellent Flory action. As for the PE thing? Who knows, I can’t rembember what I came into a room for most days. 😉

loving the blue wheel well colour. Is so nice. Looking forward to my first eastern build.  Looks like you’re pretty much done. 🤩. By the way apologies for my last gobbledegook post. ( now corrected ) this new phone seems to want to “help” a little too often than I’d like. 
 

Johnny

[VT Red Sox Fan]

The glacial build is coming to an end--one thing about any kind of bomber or torpedo bomber is there is a lot going on at the end.  This segment will focus on the Type 91 torpedo which will arm my Kate.  After much contemplation, I came to the conclusion that Kates armed with the torpedo had the plywood fins installed which disintegrated on impact in the water to assist in guiding the weapon to its target.  I based this conclusion both on photos of the Kates, but also Jill's as I sought for photos beyond Pearl Harbor raiders.  Not sure if this conclusion is correct, but as Johnny @The Spadgent might point out, sometimes you got to go with what you have and wait for the subject matter experts to tell you otherwise for your next try.  Wikipedia actually has a great rundown on the Type 91, so I will link it here.  

 

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Type_91_torpedo

 

Also, though not a primary source I noted the Japanese-aviation forum pictured the disintegrating fins as well, so I decided to go against Airfix's instructions and use the disintegrating, larger fins.

 

https://japanese-aviation.forumotion.com/t17-45-midway-islands-battle-june-4-1942

 

First, I attached Eduard's front photo etch fins.  Then the Type 91 torpedo was painted in Alclad and given a black nose.  Once done, I used AK's engine oil to replicate the oily surface talked about in some of my research.  Finally, I attached the straps to the weapon before attaching to the B5N2.  Again, it would be interesting to learn more from the Japanese aviation experts I know are lurking about--once painted the torpedo went on with no problems.

 

 

I used Krystal Klear and Tamiya clear colors for the navigation lights before attaching the weapon.  Based off of Nakijima built Zeros, & grainy early Kate photos from pearl Harbor I decided that I would cover the entire transparency instead of the bulb with a clear transparency.  I also lightly weathered around the fuel tank ports with AK's kerosene.

 

 

 

Finally, I attached the Type 91 torpedo and the tail hook w/Eduard photo etch (painted according to Nick Millman's A6M2 Nakajima reference with aotake/black)--and this Kate is done!  What can I say--Airfix did an amazing job--the kit goes together very well and I think the details are reasonable.  It would be nice to know where Airfix got their research info--for example, I am not convinced the large cylinders are accurate for an early way Kate since later in the war this may have been associated with electronic equipment.  That said, it could very well be compressed air to operate on board systems like on the much smaller Zero.  Airfix's clear parts are amazing--crystal clear and they fit very well--you will notice that I can switch out the canopies--everything stays in place with very little tackiness required to settle the parts down.

 

One thing I really enjoyed about this build were Mission Models paints--accurate colors but they are a little different than other blends--bottom line is I had trouble thinning more than 60% paint/40% thinner ( the paint would not provide smooth coat)--that said, I found I had more of a filter than a coat of paint at about 70%  paint/30% thinner.  When thinning this much, their poly is a must, although I imagine any product which increases drying time will make a big difference.  Also, I really enjoyed working with ColorCoats--best enamel I have ever used. 

 

Well, I would like to thank everyone who helped me on this journey--I now feel like I learned a lot about early WW2 USN and IJN aviation.  A project like this with the amount of questions I ask really requires me to reach out and say a few thank yous to folks who made time to make these builds a fun learning experience for me--@expositor, @zegeye, @dov, @Blimpyboy, @fishplanebeer, @Greenshirt, @Marco1965, @Denford, @Jackson Duvalier, @dogsbody, @alt-92, @mark.au, @ModelingEdmontonian, @RidgeRunner, @GlueDad and at @opus999 for the info on marbling and stencils--they really helped me work at attempting a well worn and maintained but deteriorating IJN D1 green coat.   In particular for the Kate, I really appreciate everyone's help--this was my first serious attempt at a Japanese aircraft upon returning to the hobby and all the insights at least made me feel my interpretations were based on logic.  Works by Nick Millman and Robert Mikesh provided much needed references as well--I would highly recommend these authors to anyone wanting to build a WW2 IJN/IJA aircraft.  Also, I apologize if I missed anyone--I am really grateful for everyones input and thoughts on how I can get better.

 

Now it is on to my next build--it will be a 3 some 1/72 build--Academy's F6F and Eduard's F6F-3 and F6F-5 to round out my Grumman plastic Iron works--but before then, I hear Johnny @The Spadgent, Bill @billn53 and G @giemme telling me to finally get the Ready for Inspection blog ready 😎 best to all, Erwin

 

  

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Edited April 20, 2022 by VT Red Sox Fan
grammer

[billn53]

Looks really great! Where’s the RFI?
 

😜

 

[mark.au]

It was a great pleasure following along on these Erwin, and the results are most excellent.  I’m looking forward to the next one(s).

[giemme]

Heck of a job, Erwin!   

 

One minor point, if I may: I don't know if it's the photos, but it looks a bit too shiny in places, like the engine cowling and part of the underside - might be worth a quick clear flat spray.

 

Ciao

[VT Red Sox Fan]

Thanks @billn53, @mark.au, & @giemme--your compliments mean a lot.  G, thank you for your gentle thought on the glossy finish--the good news is the Kate does not look as glossy under normal light and I was trying to get the cowling glossy as this was part of how Kates were painted (for 1/72 semi-gloss is what is what I was shooting for).  That said, you have a valid point as the finish is not as dull as I would have hoped, but I dont want to destroy the topcoat decals at this point.  I think there are 3 things going on: 1) I am probably not photographing the models well (least impact) 2) I getting good at shooting gloss coats for decaling, but I am struggling spraying flats (most impact) & 3) I am having issues with the Mission Models clears--they seem to spray glossier and peel a bit for me--its probably me, but I find them a bit more temperamental than the paints.  With that, would you have any advice on spraying glosses and flats for my next build?  Maybe I need to adjust pressure, maybe I need to think more about the distance of the airbrush to the model (different for flats vs gloss clears)--thanks for your thoughts--I really appreciate you pointing this issue out & thanks for pushing me to be better--best, Erwin 

Edited April 20, 2022 by VT Red Sox Fan
Grammar

[giemme]

Erwin, the flat coat is always quite a peculiar beast to tame. I did experiment myself quite a bit before settling to the system/combination I use now, which is Windsor and Newton Galeria Acrylic Flat Clear (suggested by our own @CedB). I use it thinned 50/50 with distilled water, and spray at 0.8-1 bar trying not to stay too close to the model. If I want a more satin finish, I just mix W&N Gloss with it (normally 80 Gloss and 20 Flat, but I very much eyeball it).

 

I have no experience with Mission Models clears; all I've ever used in their range are Flat White and Light Gull Grey. I thinned them with literally a smear of water, and they sprayed very well.

 

As for testing with flat clear coats in general, try first on a scrap part, because sometimes the unwanted effect you get is that the coat turns white in places, and that can be hard to fix/remove

 

HTH

 

Ciao

[VT Red Sox Fan]

G @giemme, thank you so much for the info above--I really appreciate the W&N info--will have to give that a whirl.  I used use the Testors Dull Coat--out of the can, I would sometimes get frosting, but the bottle stuff cut with lacquer thinner never let me down out of an airbrush on enamels.  Now that I am using more acrylics, I am in the hunt for a new system so your perspective and others is much appreciated--thanks for your help in getting me this far--best, Erwin 

[Jackson Duvalier]

Hi Erwin, good to see your projects moving along smartly.  😎

 

When I'm going for a very matte finish (e.g. a worn tyre), I find Tamiya flat clear thinned with alcohol gets a good result.  As a counter-example, Mr. Leveling Thinner, much as I love it, tends to allow the flat clear to smooth out too much and remain too shiny.  

 

I've been using 91% IPA* for this but it does go chalky sometimes, well... quite a bit actually.  I've found going back over it with more 91% IPA/flat clear tends to fix things.  My guess is the high-test alcohol can evaporate too fast for the acrylic binder, hence chalkiness, but Tamiya's perpetually alcohol-soluble paint formulation responds well to a resurfacing.  

 

I'm going to try with 70% IPA sometime soon and see how that goes.  I think the slightly retarded evaporation rate may get the dead-flat finish without the whitish residue.  "Chalky" is just "really really flat" taken a notch too far.

 

I know W&N Galeria Matte is often mentioned on Britmodeller but it's hard to find here in Burgerstan.  I've recently been trying Liquitex Matte Medium cut with Liquitex Airbrush Medium, as I can obtain it locally.  Seems to work like Vallejo and leaves a slightly satin finish that I think works well for 1/72.  It's one of those acrylics that works and plays better with water and detergents than alcohol.

 

 

* IPA as in "Isopropanol" not "India Pale Ale," which TBH was a bad idea in the first instance and has only gotten worse as half-trained brewers use it as a catch-all term for this recent glut of overhopped plonk.

[mark.au]

Hi Erwin.

I use a 1:1:1 mix of Windex, Future and Vallejo Matt.  The inclusion of Future is a little counter intuitive but I find that it smooths out and hardens the finish avoiding the “powdery” look most flat finishes have (to my eye, at least) and their associated fragility.  I can get a very flat finish by just slightly increasing the Vallejo component in the mix but as there are very few very flat finishes on real aircraft I rarely go very flat on my models.

 

Hope that helps, or at least offers an alternative option to the more conventional (and very effective) alternatives offered.

[VT Red Sox Fan]

Thanks @giemme, @Jackson Duvalier & @mark.au--with everyone's advice, how can I leave well enough alone   So, I am going to pull out plastic scrap and work on getting duller--but not with my humor. 😎  I think if I get this right, then the Kate will be one of my better projects--given the amount of research and the unique scheme, it is well worth the effort.  I will call it a run batted in once I circle back across the finish line--thanks all for your inputs and thoughts on how to improve--the help is always impressive on this message board--best to all, Erwin 

[Marco1965]

That is a very nice collection!  Nice Nakajima, that is how my next Kate should look like, with a torpedo hanging from the belly!

 

Marco

[VT Red Sox Fan]

Marco @Marco1965—thank you for the kind compliment and help during this build.  Updated picture are soon to come now that I have a better understanding of Mission’s flat clear—best, Erwin

[VT Red Sox Fan]

Hello everyone--based on the prodding above, I went ahead and re-did the flat coat.  I continued to use Mission Models flat as I did not want to jeopardize the Mission Models IJN D1 worn salt topcoat.  My experience this time yielded better results spraying the flat coat 1) without thinning, keeping the distance about an arms length away & spraying at about 18 PSI (for reference I had originally thinned per Missions instructions, sprayed at about 12 -15 PSI & was about 4 to 6 inches away from the aircraft).  My new technique resulted in a dusting of the flat and I was able to control the dull build up pretty well.  As I practiced it occurred to me that it is probably best the dulling occurs slowly so you can create the effect you are looking for.  Also, I found applying the flat coat was more like dusting than painting--not sure if others mileage is the same, but that is what I learned this go.  Once my trials were over I went on to mask the clear parts/engine/metallics to start the re-dulling the B5N2's finish.  

 

I initially removed the cowling and sprayed that separately as I wanted this to be a semi-gloss vice the gloss G @giemme pointed out earlier.  I did this because my understanding is that the cowlings of Sakae engine equipped airplanes tended to have cowlings glossier than the rest of the the airplane due to the mechanics of the engine.  I believe the Hiryu B5N2  below backs up this theory (granted it is a Pearl Harbor raid picture). I also liked how the dull coat worked with some of the chipping around the radiator and I believe it bought attention to to the aircraft's data plate (as an aside, my research revealed 3 lines of thinking on the manufacture's data plate--1) masked so it creates an ameiro rectangle (some Pearl Harbor wreck bear this theory out, 2 Over painted--supported by Pearl Harbor wrecks as well and finally 3) The manufactures tail data plate re-applied over the unit level painted IJN D1 (both Air Fix and Hasegawa support this theory, but I could not find a photo--in the end I went with option 1.  Additionally, since Nick Millman's research on Nakajima built A6M2s indicated the ameiro color maintained much of its luster on early war aircraft, I decided to shoot for a semigloss look on this factory applied finish while the IJN D1 green would have a flat, chipped and worn look given that this was applied at the unit level.  Finally, I touched up some of the weathering pigments/fuel stains as I was not going for a "blended" look on these wear points.

 

 

I also took advantage of sunlight and photographed the B5N2 under more natural lighting--I think I will need to follow some of Johnny's @The Spadgent (& @giemme's) advice and spend some more time on my photo set up.  I really do think G had it correct on the earlier call--the further reduction of gloss has really improved the overall look of the model.  I think my next learning curve with the Mission Model clears is is how to spray them in finer detail.  I also want to get experiment with their semi-gloss.  I think once I get the hang of Mission's clears they will work out well for me in my local conditions.  I was also happy to see the canopy swaps still work.  Hope you all like finish line 2 & asn always thoughts on how I can improve are always welcome even if it means creating a finish line 3 🙂. Best, Erwin

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Edited April 25, 2022 by VT Red Sox Fan
grammer