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F4F-4 Wildcat B5N2 Kate Airfix Dogfight Double


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Hello forum,

 

About to start on my next 1/72 Airfix Dogfight Double Midway F4F-4 following my Fw-190/Hawker Typhoon build linked below. 

 

 

Given Johnny's @The Spadgent's build of the same kit, along with Detail and Scale's review, I am looking forward to a straight forward where effort will be spent on the engine, wheel well intercoolers, Photo etch cockpit & working on getting the colors correct.  @giemme's builds always inspire me to push on some of the overlooked details on excellent kits like Airfix's F4F-4.  Unlike Johnny, I am going to do this with the wing's extended.

 

 

For reference, I am using @Dana Bell's F4F Wildcat, Aircraft Pictorial #4 book, Detail and Scale's F4F Wildcat (E-Book), Detail and Scale's US Navy Carrier Based Aircraft of WW2 (e-book), WW2 In Review No 30 Wildcat (e-book), F4F Wildcat vs Zero Sen (Edward M Young-e-book) and this website I found useful https://www.angelfire.com/dc/jinxx1/Wildcat/F4F_pt1.html . Given the overall quality of Airfix's decals and research on previous Dogfight Double's I have built, I decided to build LCDR Thatch's aircraft with their markings.  Additionally, I noted in Airfix's instructions that Starfighter decals assisted with developing the markings so I feel good about their accuracy--I have always been impressed with their products.  About the only error I can find, and it seems to be common with all Airfix Wildcats, is most F4F-4's carried Curtiss Electric propellors and not Hamilton Standards, so the propellor stencils will need to be modified.  In this scale I have decided to just use the technical stencils on the cuff & cut off the red Hamilton Standard oval--I purchased Yellow Wing's 1/72 manufacturer propellor logos so I might use the Curtiss Electric Seal--that said, I think photographic evidence in @Dana Bell's book points to no manufacturer seals on Midway Wildcat propellors.   I have read that Thatch's aircraft is pictured below prior to the Battle of Midway--a great resource that I will use on the build.

 

F4F-4_5171__VF-3___Kaneohe__May_42___1.j

 

 

 

 

 

My 1st order of business is to figure out what colors to use for the project.  I initially purchased Colorcoates as I trust their research and have heard nothing but good things about them.  However, since I plan on thinning the paints I like to use the manufacturer's proprietary so I can save unused paints/avoid complications--it has been next to impossible for me to get their thinner, so I decided to use the lids as paint chips to compare other manufactures against. (I am very impressed with the research put into Colorcoates and will use them in the future when I get thinner--I also understand they paint the lids with the actual color in the tin). 

 

I decided to give AK Real Colors a try based off one of @billn53's builds, Gunze, AK Acrylic (Bronze Green) and Tamiya (experiment with XF-5 for cockpit bronze green only) and Vallejo (cockpit bronze green).  A quick eyeball check against Colorcoats and @Dana Bell's book convinced me to use AK Real Colors Bronze green for the cockpit.  I am thinking that AK's Blue Grey and Light Grey will work for the exterior, but I am still going back and forth with Gunze's near matches--I know this is very unscientific eyeballing, but I think it will hit the mark.   For the elusive Grumman Grey Primer, I am going to trust at Eduard's Hellcat instructions juxtaposed with Detail and Scale's Hellcat book and go with Mission Model's Light Gull Grey.  Paint swatches I created against light grey are pictured below:

 

 

DSCN3251

 

 All comments are welcome--including those that think my color interpretation needs improvement.  Also, please do not hesitate to add to my Wildcat knowledge if my research is off--I am always amazed at the bench of historical and craftsman knowledge on this site.

 

Best to all,

 

Erwin 

 

Edited by VT Red Sox Fan
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Hi Erwin,

 

I'll be watching closely, too - I've just started one of these over on the Less Than A Tenner GB, but my build speed is so slow you'll overtake me in no time!

 

Cheers,

Mark

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  • 2 weeks later...

My R-1830 Twin Wasp saga--the tale of stretching growing skills to circle back to improving the kit part--interested?  Then read on.  

 

For this build, I decided to attempt what I think is my 1st radial engine since posting on the blog (ok, not quite true as my Fw-190 A-8 has a hard to see radial engine that is not as "open' as the Wildcat's).   As @opus999 correctly pointed out in my Typhoon build, most of my cockpit efforts are hard to see in 1/72 scale fighters. Inspired by @giemme, @The Spadgent, @billn53, and many other brilliant additions I decided to spend some time on this part of the build knowing this detail effort will be well seen on a Wildcat.

 

As many of  you saw I purchased a Quick Boost engine for this build as I thought the details were crisper than the Airfix part--they are, but the push rods and wire harness are not molded nor included as photo etch.  Given this would be my 1st resin radial & 1st wiring without photo etch, I decided hedge my bets & cast a duplicate to use and improve Airfix's engine just incase I skoshed the resin build. (I have to agree with Johnny and Detail & Scale that Airfix did do a great job on this part, so I could improve it with little effort).  Regardless of what engine front I used, Quickboost's Twin Wasp rear section will fill the void left by Airfix in the wheel well.  I also decided to try out AK's Aircraft Engine Effects on this project for the 1st time. 

 

The photo of Thatch's aircraft and @Dana Bell's Aircraft Pictorial Wildcat & Detail and Scale's books show silver wires to what I believe are magnetos and the prop intervalometer on the Twin Wasp's crank case when installed to F4F-4 (and many period FM-1s for that matter).  Given these period photos, I decided to leverage the Smithsonian's FM-1 restored to F4F-4 standards by Grumman employees who built F4F-4s (I understand the term "restored" can lead to many concerns given the bench of knowledge on this forum--that said, I felt good about using the photos linked below given supporting period photo documentation coupled with Mr Bell's reference to Smithsonian's restoration's cockpit in his Aircraft Pictorial book on the Wildcat--cant wait to work on the cockpit). Since not all of these details are well represented on either the resin or kit engines, I decided to attempt to add them with scrap resin cut to shape where applicable and lead wire as appropriate.

 

Smithsonian Restoration:

https://www.si.edu/object/eastern-division-fm-1-grumman-f4f-4-wildcat%3Anasm_A19610122000 

 

Thatch F4F-4 claimed to be aircraft flow at Midway

F4F-4_5171__VF-3___Kaneohe__May_42___1.j

 

Period color F4F-4 with good look into crankcase area

4F4F-4_EW.jpg

 

 

 

 Turning to Quickboost's resin, I decided that I would attempt to use .015 lead wire to simulate the push rods & .010 wire on the engine spark plug lines.  I created a jig and then painted.

 

DSCN3172

Push rods (Quickboost):

 

DSCN3175 DSCN3177

Wire harness (Quickboost):

DSCN3178 DSCN3179

 

Then I went about hedging my bets by improving the Airfix engine--I can hear the groans now, yes I wired the engine on the sprue to assist in handling the small parts 🙂. I ended up with what I called a Franken engine of the Airfix, Quickboost, wire and scrap resin all matching period photos/the Smithsonian's example (at least as best I could get it anyway)

 

 

DSCN3194

 

DSCN3196

 

DSCN3201

 

At this point, I thought the Quickboost wired engine had a slight edge over the Airfix Franken engine but then I began to paint (Tamiya spray aluminum and then a basic wash).  I discovered that I had ham fisted the CA glue attachment points on the Quickboost resin covering up much of the cylinder head detail (also, the wiring to spark plugs did not look to scale). I was a bit dismayed, but was also happy with the Franken engine under initial paint.  

 

DSCN3202

 

The weathered Airfix Franken engine process:

 

DSCN3222 DSCN3224 DSCN3225 DSCN3227

 

At the end of the engine journey, I think I ended up with a great engine from the kit parts combined with aftermarket, scrap resin and wire assisted by a lot of research.  I plan on installing the Airfix Twin Wasp Franken engine in this build.  That said, I was happy with the jigs that I made to make the Quickboost resin work and feel my efforts on the resin part came very close.  Does anyone have any thoughts on what I could have done better on the Quickboost part?  I am thinking thread for the wire, but I think my use of CA glue was sloppy (I apply it with a tooth pick). Drilling might be the key to secure the wires, but it seems that it might be bridge too far in 1/72.  Self critiquing aside, I am very happy with how AK Weathering effects really enhanced the look of the engine following an application of Tamiya's black panel accent over the aluminum paint and Model Master Engine Grey (one last question to the forum--any thoughts on what a close color is to Model Master's engine grey since they are closing their line?  )

 

Thank you all for making time to read this far and I appreciate thoughts on areas to improve--hope this was useful to the forum--best to all, Erwin  

Edited by VT Red Sox Fan
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Your modelling skills have greatly improved since you started posting here, Erwin.  I also notice you "finding your voice" with respect to your write-ups, very commendable.

 

I'm no expert when it comes to wiring up radials, but when possible I prefer to drill completely through any wire attachment point and apply glue in the rear, where it won't be seen.  This won't work in every case of course, especially on solid resin castings.  I made a super glue applicator (dubbed "The Supergluminator") by stabbing a small steel sewing needle into a glue-filled hole drilled into a bamboo chopstick, then filing the end of the eye off to form a sort of Y-shape.  Surface tension holds a tiny drop of superglue in place in the eye until capillary action draws it into whatever tiny join I'm trying to bond.  Dried superglue clogs it up after two or three dabs, but it burns right out with a butane lighter and she's ready to go again.  Not a perfect solution but less of a blunt instrument than a cocktail pick.

 

Another thought: given the unlikelihood of there ever being much stress placed on engine wiring detail, using tiny dabs of a heavy PVA/acrylic glue like Formula 560 or Gator's Grip might be an easier way, or at least easier to tidy up when the inevitable mistake occurs.

 

I think both engine fronts are quite acceptable, but the Franken-engine has the edge.  Installing pushrods in 1/72 is fiddly business, not for the faint of heart.  You've nailed the crankcase colour.  

 

The Wildcat is a really good little kit, it's slightly more involved than the usual Airfix 1/72 single-engine kit.  I understand there are some shape issues, but I'm quite proud of my OOTB build in Marion Carl's Guadalcanal livery.  I've forgotten what I used to represent Bronze Green, but I think it was Model Master Marine Corps Green.  I need to find a Tamiya mix to standardise on; XF-5 isn't quite there but I think a mix of XF-5 and XF-26 Deep Green might do the job.

 

You might wish to address the hatches slightly forward of the windscreen on either side of the nose.  These did not stand proud on the real aircraft.  I scribed around the edges (somewhat tricky due to the odd moulded-in bevels) then sanded them flush.  A section of stretched sprue will stand in for the piano hinge across the top.  

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Fraken-engine looking the biz, Erwin :clap: 

 

I second what Jackson said about the wiring; in addition, in case I can't drill a pass-through hole, (like in a resin engine), I drill a blind hole, pour a drop of very thin CA glue on a scrap piece of alu foil and dip the end of the wire in it, making sure it picks up just the right amount of glue. I then fit that end into the receiving hole and wait a few minutes for it to cure, before applying any bends or the likes. HTH

 

Oh, I almost forgot the most important thing: I only do propellers in 1/48.... :rofl:  :rofl:  :coat: 

 

Ciao

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37 minutes ago, VT Red Sox Fan said:

I cant wait to see G change course and dive into a 1/72 prop 😂

No way! :rofl: 

 

Ciao

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8 hours ago, Jackson Duvalier said:

 I made a super glue applicator (dubbed "The Supergluminator") by stabbing a small steel sewing needle into a glue-filled hole drilled into a bamboo chopstick, then filing the end of the eye off to form a sort of Y-shape.  Surface tension holds a tiny drop of superglue in place in the eye until capillary action draws it into whatever tiny join I'm trying to bond.  Dried superglue clogs it up after two or three dabs, but it burns right out with a butane lighter and she's ready to go again.  Not a perfect solution but less of a blunt instrument than a cocktail pick.

 

This is the cut-off sewing needle eye that I use for superglue. It's mounted in an old pin vise.

 

27870158927_5892864c01_c.jpg

 

27870158947_fd0e5bbe2d_c.jpg

 

 

 

Chris

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@Jackson Duvalier--thank you so much for the kind words--means a lot.  Do you have picture of the "The Supergluminator"?  I am more of a visual person, so seeing this idea would be helpful--it sounds like a great idea for the issues I had.  Also your idea of PVA Glue (Formula 560) is a great point--I have been using Microscale Krystal Klear in combo with CA in cockpits, but was a little daunted for this application.  Never the less, I think PVA would work well with your thoughts/tools.

 

Do you have a link to your Wildcat build?  I would like to check it out--do you have any opinions on AK's Real Color Line? (their Bronze Green and cammo grey look pretty close to me, I am beginning to move away from their light blue for this build)  When I did my color dabs, they seemed very close to Colour Coates (only wish their thinner was easier to come by here in the States) & @Dana Bell's reference in his Aircraft Pictorial book on the Wildcat.  Interestingly, a lot of folks talk about the blue hue of Bronze Green and the only way I could fully mix the blue into the green in AK's Bronze Green was to use an agitator (hand stirring and shacking did not work).

 

You are very much correct on the the forward access hatches & minor shape issues in Airfix's Wildcat.  There is also a rear fuselage access hatch that stands proud--I believe Airfix has also hired some gremlins as part of their reinvigoration program 🤣--I am thinking of their Spey engine F-4 which I have in the staff that is missing obvious details like the vents on the intakes.  It mars otherwise spectacular kits that are still very competitive with the competition.  For this particular build, I spent a lot of time looking at my National Museum of Naval Aviation Wildcat photos from Pensacola FL & decided to live with Airfix's renderings on the hatches for the following reasons (this is an area where are "art" meets the engineering/science details)--1) period photos seem to show these hatches as distinctive areas that were frequently opened (mute point with my build since I believe the F4F-4s at Midway were minimally weathered) & 2) Airfix's efforts on these hatches really captures the "feel" of the machine to my eye.  That all said, I would like to emphasize you are correct and that Airfix created a situation for us to look for compromises in otherwise outstanding new releases.  

 

Thank you again for the compliments and look forward to more inputs from you on this and future builds (I will warn you, I am a super slow 1/72 builder--it is the journey, not the production rate 😎), Best, Erwin 

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Hello everyone, its been a while since I have posted on my own work, but Johnny @The Spadgent, & @giemme have graciously allowed me to leverage their on going & outstanding P-51D builds to share information--sometimes I think my projects are out step with the "in" crowd. 🤣. Johnny's great work on his Wildcat linked here was a great inspiration to me in putting this together.

 

This installment will be the initial cockpit build up.  As Johnny and Detail & Scale's reviews pointed out, Airfix did a great job on the cockpit area for this kit.  The biggest flaw I can find is that the side walls as molded in the kit part, blocking the view to the bottom windows.  The F4F-4's cockpit really had tracks for the pilots feet-- I think Airfix captured this "floor" rather well allowing for simple cutting to replace their sidewalls with photo etch sills.  

 

In planning this build I decided that I would not use the PE rails that attached the seat to the rear bulk head--the kit's look in scale and 3d to my eyes.  If there is one disappointing aspect of this kit, and our resin aftermarket industry, it is that their is no gas tank provided for under the floor which can be seen at the correct angle and there is no oil tank for the wheel well area.  With all that said, these features really will not be seen through the cockpit, underside windows or gear bays so I decided to press forward with finalizing my Bronze Green selection for this build and using the Eduard photo etch to upgrade the side panels & front instrument.

 

I find @Dana Bell's Aircraft Pictorials to be an absolute must when developing a comfortable "thats about right" for World War 2 US builds--his Wildcat book is exceptional.  After reviewing @Jackson Duvalier's kind praise I went back to my color plate comparing AK Real Bronze Green with Colour Coates Bronze Green and Dana Bells's picture from the restored Smithsonian cockpit--I felt that AK's Bronze Green was a spot on match to both these references.  Given this, I decided to airbrush the cockpit area AK Real Colors Bronze Green.  I also decided that I would brush paint Eduard's Photo Etch sills when attached since they are painted in Eduard's interior green color--passable for a P-51D in this scale  but too far off from Bronze Green.  The paint would reinforce the PE/plastic joints, but the trick would be painting around the details.  The last detail to be considered was the what I believe is an O2 tank behind the pilot--Detail & Scale indicates this bottle was painted green with metal straps--I replicated this with Tamiya Green and Tamiya Gunmetal--I did not give it much further thought since this area will not be seen behind the pilot. 

 

Thats a lot of words for part 1 of a 1/72 prop cockpit,  linked below are color references and 1st cockpit photos--best to all and thank you for your thoughts and ideas for improvement, Best to all, Erwin   

 

Color Comparisons

 

DSCN3251

 

Interior Green sill and Bronze Green cockpit:

 

DSCN3231

 

Cockpit phase 1 complete with AK Real Color Bronze Green painted around PE details/paint reinforced joints

 

DSCN3232 DSCN3233

 

 

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As handy as printed etch can be be, I sometimes wonder who signed off on the final colours, they're simply that far off of any generally accepted benchmark for the colours they represent.  Happy to see you're not afraid to splash some paint on them!  The cockpit is looking good indeed.

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The office is looking lovely. I don’t think I had PE in my build but painted over some of the decals to make them look a bit less rubbish. Yours however looks grand in situ. Popping that seat in should be the icing on the cake. 🙌

 

Johnny

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I totally agree with Jackson and Johnny here, cockpit looking the biz! :clap: 

 

2 hours ago, Jackson Duvalier said:

As handy as printed etch can be be, I sometimes wonder who signed off on the final colours, they're simply that far off of any generally accepted benchmark for the colours they represent.

I couldn't agree more about that too! 

 

Ciao

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On 6/8/2021 at 11:20 AM, giemme said:

in case I can't drill a pass-through hole, (like in a resin engine), I drill a blind hole, pour a drop of very thin CA glue on a scrap piece of alu foil and dip the end of the wire in it, making sure it picks up just the right amount of glue. I then fit that end into the receiving hole and wait a few minutes for it to cure, before applying any bends or the likes

 

I’m a bit too late to the conversation :blush: but I agree with G’s method - save that I use medium CA as I’ve found that it ‘beads’ better and more easily on the end of the wire compared with using the thin stuff.  But it’s probably brand specific.

 

I also agree that the cockpit is looking the biz Erwin

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Cockpit update.  

 

Things are progressing very smoothly--the AK Real Colors Bronze green sealed up the Eduard Photo Etch really well.  I am very impressed with how Eduard's PE sets pay big dividends on these Airfix kits.  Since I plan on crewing this model, I decided to go with Airfix's seat instead of the PE one--I was pretty impressed with how the kit's cockpit looked in Johnny's @The Spadgent build.  Based on the references, the cockpit really elevates with Eduard's PE/coupled with cutting out portions of the floor.  I also used Gunmetal on the O2 tank straps based on Detail and Scale's photos.  The part I am least confident is the radio fit, not the quality of the build, but if I have the correct "boxes" for a Midway aircraft.  After pouring over @Dana Bell's book and Detail and Scale, I believe Eduard is on target and went with the PE parts without modification.  

 

DSCN3253 DSCN3256 DSCN3257 DSCN3259

 

Then, in order to build depth, I used Tamiya's Brown panel accent and dry brushed with aluminum/gunmetal before I attached the seat.  I did use a little Tamiya black panel accent, but Bronze Green is a very dark color--my goal was to highlight with an emphasis on lightning up.  I also glassed up the dials with Microscale Krystal Klear.  The headrest was painted Tamiya Gloss Black based on period photos and the F4F-3/4 discovered at Pacific ocean carrier wrecks.

 

DSCN3263 DSCN3266 DSCN3267

 

 

 

Finally I installed the seat, dry brushed it and called it good since I will crew this model.  My plan is to improve the gunsight once the assembly is in the fuselage with seams sanded down

 

 

DSCN3287 DSCN3286 DSCN3288

 

Minus adding a lens to the gunsight/dry brushing I am going to call the cockpit good--I am not worried about belts since this model will be crewed.  Next up will be the wheel bay--G @giemme's Stuka really got me excited about this part of the Wildcat (I was dreading it).  Given the outcome of his interior details on a much larger scale, I am looking forward to what I can accomplish with the F4F's wheel bays which could be considered windows into the fuselage.  

 

Thank you all for your thoughts and areas for improvement--Johnny, I can't wait to hear about the silly putty on the cutting board 😉:laugh: Best, Erwin 

Edited by VT Red Sox Fan
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2 hours ago, VT Red Sox Fan said:

My plan is to improve the gunsight once the assembly is in the fuselage with seams sanded down

 

Probably a wise decision, but I'd be very careful to not get sanding dust into the cockpit opening after all your work to install windows and make a see-through floor .  On a simple early-war USN reflector sight, a punched-out disk of clear plastic is almost all you need.  If you don't have a punch-and-die set of appropriate size I'd be happy to send you some clear plastic disks.

 

If I remember correctly, this is one of those Airfix kits with super-tight tolerances between the fuselage halves and transverse bulkheads.  If you dry-fit these conscientiously, you ought not need much cleanup work on the fuselage seams fore and aft of the cockpit opening.

 

Have you ever tried scraping seams smooth (as opposed to sanding)?  It works really well when you can get a bead of melted plastic to ooze out along the seam, and since you can scrape away from sensitive areas it's less likely to get shavings where you don't want them.

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Thanks @Jackson Duvalier--great points--I think it is better for me to say smooth out the seams as there are a number of issues that can come up during a build.  In the spirit of my galacticly slow builds always seeking new research, @The Spadgent knows first hand how I always go back and forth about details :laugh:, I learned that I had the incorrect Bu No for White 23--the photo above is of of Bu No 5171  which is actually the "White F-1" also flown by Thatch.  White 23 flown by Thatch, is actually Bu No 5093.  My understanding is that unlikely that White 23 did not shoot down the Kate depicted in the Dogfight Double--it was Thatch in White F-1.  Thatch did fly White 23 in the Battle of Midway though while flying escort missions to attack the IJN fleet.  

 

Of course, this observation triggered a melt down for me:laugh:  So I turned to the the forum's WW2 discussion era thread which was so helpful during my Typhoon build--special thanks to @zegeye--he found a thread from Armada Hobby on FV-3 at Midway which has a still of White 23!  Thank you!  (I am no @Dana Bell, but I think the photo is of Bu BNo 5093 marked a White 23). That said, I will have to rely on some informed guesses to decal placement/paint demarcation lines as the movie still from the 1942 footage of White 23 really helps for only the front 1/4 of the aircraft --thanks again to everyone for the help & without further ado, here are some of the additional photos I will use

 

Best to all, Erwin

 

thach-23-web

http://armahobbynews.pl/en/blog/2021/06/11/f4f-4-wildcat-fighting-squadron-three-vf-3-and-jimmy-thach-in-the-battle-of-midway/

Not White 23--but  more F4F-4s at Midway to assist in painting

Black 13 1942_06_04_k_f4_from cv5

 

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On 18/06/2021 at 03:56, VT Red Sox Fan said:

Johnny, I can't wait to hear about the silly putty on the cutting board 😉:laugh: 

My old brain. 🤔 is this me? I don’t recall silly putty. 🤪

I stand by my previous. She’s a lovely looking cockpit.
One piece of advice,(which I should take myself) and @giemme always seems to nail is, while taking pics or at least final pics either use a blank piece of card or a clear part of your board with not so many things in shot. This will draw your eye to the wonders you have created and not so much to the background scenery.  Bloody nice work mind. 😍

 

Johnny.

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