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The Great Crusade (take two)


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I’m beginning to wonder about repainting the Tilly. I used “Dark Earth” knowing it to be too light for SCC2 Brown,, I’d hoped it would look ok, but I’m starting to think I’ll do a mix per Mike Starmer with 98 Chocolate and 29 Dark earth, in 5:4 proportions, or there are ready mixed colours available, but I don’t know if any of the acrylics are considered a good match. I’ve ordered another QLD to do with the tilt frame exposed, and might paint it SCC2, and repaint the Tilly at the same time. Could do a British Jeep at the same time, make a brown trio. I think the change to SCC15 was authorised a couple of months before D-Day, so I suspect repainting existing second line vehicles would not have been a priority.

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A change of pace this evening, two Jeeps, one US Army recon, built straight out of the box; the other British (no marker lamps in grill, no blackout lamp on fender, no rifle rack on windscreen and the rear Jerry can replaced with a WD pattern one - which will look better once painted so the filler disappears).
 

51359392036_27e67d695a_c.jpgJeeps by Jon Gwinnett, on Flickr
 

51359392076_c4d0c957ef_c.jpgJeeps by Jon Gwinnett, on Flickr
 

51360402015_4ac1d86ea3_c.jpgJeeps by Jon Gwinnett, on Flickr
 

Finally a reference photo I took a few years back, to show what I should be aiming for with the SCC2 brown.

 

51358643527_e20f502eaa_c.jpgJeeps by Jon Gwinnett, on Flickr

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Lack of updates due to a hasty (and now much regretted) bulk glazing session using Kristal Klear. While it worked well on the Beetle, I tried to get too clever doing the WW2 models, and applied it too thinly, with the result some parts dried much quicker than others, leading to nastily uneven windows, which looked terrible. Unfortunately, while fairly easy to apply, it turns out Kristal Klear is the very devil to remove, so most of the past two days have been spent picking rubbery glazing off models. Not recommended.

 

I did however make one new addition, while watching the Hundred cricket this afternoon:

 

51364142249_a8207a01d0_c.jpgBren / Universal Carrier by Jon Gwinnett, on Flickr
 

51362652692_8478084010_c.jpgBren / Universal Carrier by Jon Gwinnett, on Flickr

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Ok, summary of in progress builds. All need crew. I need to actually finish some of these.

 

Churchill AVRE - needs tow cables, decals, and dirt

M3A1 Ambulance half track needs decals and dirt

M4 Sherman - needs stowage, decals and dirt

M4A1 Sherman - still just an idea (on order)

M32B1 - needs rigging, tow cables, stowage, decals and dirt

M4A2 Sherman III ARV Mk 1 - started

M4A2 Sherman BARV - not started - researching

M10 TD - needs stowage, decals and dirt

Austin 10 HP Tilly  needs a respray, decals, dirt and glazing

Beep - not started

Jeeps - 4 in various stages of completion, two stalled awaiting better weather for spraying.

Seep - on order

CCKW - two need stowage, decals and dirt, one not yet started,  Vietnam era one needs glazing, and more dirt

Universal Carrier - started

Bedford QLD and QLT - need stowage, decals and dirt

 

Two Tigers, Panther, Beetle and Kubelwagen awaiting completion too. I clearly enjoy building more than finishing.

 

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I’ve taken the plunge and stripped the paint from the Tilly. No photos as paint stripping is only marginally more exciting than paint drying.

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I've been experimenting with oil-dot weathering. I've been a bit heavy handed but it has covered some iffy paintwork - a legacy from some damp varnish I put on a while back (Sherman Marathon). Also, bearing mind the fine yellowish dust that pervaded Normandy just after the landings a yellowish wash might mitigate your colour concerns?

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Time to experiment. 
 

Original Humbrol 29 Dark Earth

 

51343331296_6bd722a7c8_c.jpgAustin Tilly by Jon Gwinnett, on Flickr

 

replacement Tamiya NATO Brown 

 

51370736854_d866091ac1_c.jpgResprayed Tilly by Jon Gwinnett, on Flickr
 

The tilt colour is unchanged.


Tests on the paint mule:

 

51371856276_d5fd4c8010_c.jpgPaint tests for SCC2 Brown by Jon Gwinnett, on Flickr

 

The darker colour is a 1:1 mix of Humbrol 10 and 29 - Service Brown and Dark Earth. The paler colour is Model Air 71.038 Camouflage Medium Brown 


I then brushed a thin coat of the 10/29 mix on the front half of the Tilly, I think this will work.

 

51371096772_2948761b2d_c.jpgPaint tests for SCC2 Brown by Jon Gwinnett, on Flickr

 

To my eyes this has taken away the reddish tone and brought it back into the “drab” realm. A second thin coat once this is dry should prove it.

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Idly looking at images of troops loading at Weymouth for D-day, imagine my surprise when I realised there was a colour image of an SCC2 Tilly lurking hidden in plain sight.


51371510777_43be933e10_c.jpgUntitled by Jon Gwinnett, on Flickr

 

This has reassured me that my mixed colour is close enough, and also makes me think I shall have to add camouflage.

 

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Progress on the BARV has slowed due to the last day of the school holidays (never easy with an autistic child) but also because I don’t have dimensioned drawings to work from. I’m waiting for the Bradford book of drawings to arrive and in the meantime have been messing about with the interior. I doubt much of this will be visible, but it’s fun to do and I’ll know it’s there. Inspiration came from http://www.mapleleafup.net/forums/showthread.php?t=21391 which gave me something to aim for.

 

51381917071_eb554dbd27_c.jpgBARV by Jon Gwinnett, on Flickr

 

The turret inner ring is from a repurposed coke bottle (the ring the cap breaks away from) and where the commanders deck is indented, steps led down to the crawl space to the drivers seat.

 

51382159773_9e0d5e0723_c.jpgBARV by Jon Gwinnett, on Flickr
 

A blast of white paint brings it all together, I have some plastruct ladders on order which will do both for inside and hopefully also for the hull rear.

 

51382930175_120f7e24f8_c.jpgBARV by Jon Gwinnett, on Flickr
 

Meanwhile, I’ve been tackling one of the very few disappointing parts of the Rubicon kits, their jerrycans which have solid handles a bit like 1970s Tamiya. Fortunately good quality and reasonably priced replacements are available on eBay- the WD/German style cans are from Garner 3D printing, while the US style cans are from Zona 72 in Spain. No connection with either firm other than as a satisfied customer.

 

51382255133_458280550d_c.jpg1/56 Jerrycans by Jon Gwinnett, on Flickr
 

51382255103_ecdd350646_c.jpg1/56 Jerrycans by Jon Gwinnett, on Flickr
 

51382255068_05a189d372_c.jpg1/56 Jerrycans by Jon Gwinnett, on Flickr

 

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Good work on the BARV, not easy to scratch with all those angles! Thanks for the link, have saved that for when I get around to my 1/35 scale one. What’s the Bradford book?

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Hi Bigfoot, 

 

51385340249_8da7c74788_c.jpgBradford by Jon Gwinnett, on Flickr
 

one of a series, they seem reasonably priced and look reasonably reliable (others better qualified than me, may be able to confirm or not.)

 

my guesstimated dimensions don’t seem to be far off, maybe a mm narrow each side (easy enough to rectify with a 40 thou overlay) and maybe 0.5 mm too tall across the main roof. The tail end is too tall, but I’d already expected that as the angles looked off. About 4mm off should sort it, with the vent in place it’ll be about the height it is now.

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51385872602_b84b204d0b_c.jpgWider BARV by Jon Gwinnett, on Flickr
 

1mm overlays added both sides to bring it up to the correct width. I wouldn’t recommend black plastic for this as it is hard to mark up, but it was the only 1mm sheet I had in stock.

 

51385872582_9c0fc69291_c.jpgWider BARV by Jon Gwinnett, on Flickr
 

The “snot” is sprue melted in liquid cement, which, when dry, gives a solid filler that largely behaves like kit plastic. Patience is key now, to let it all dry thoroughly before cleaning up.

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28 minutes ago, Bertie Psmith said:

This is a fascinating topic. Your models are very precise and detailed for the scale. How many do you plan to do, or is this an indefinite project?

No grand plan, I model what catches my fancy, until I get bored or a new interest arises.
 

I’d like to place some in dioramas or even use them for wargaming, but I’m not so interested in the finishing as the process of building.

 

The great thing about kits in this scale is they are reasonably cheap and have accurate basic dimensions, a lovely canvas to add one’s own impressionist additions, and despite appearances, I’m not too hung up on precise dimensions or rivet counting, although in this case the amended proportions are worthwhile to my eye.

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