Pete F Posted May 23, 2021 Share Posted May 23, 2021 (edited) Introduction My Special Hobby Harvard has arrived. I won’t dwell on the contents as they are well documented elsewhere. Suffice to say it is the 1/72 Academy T-6G reboxed with a set of three alternative canopies, some resin, etch seat belts and a nice set of decals. I intend to use the Harvard IIA parts to make a United States Army Air Force AT-6C from Number 6 British Flying Training School (BFTS), Ponca City, Oklahoma, December 1942. Background During the Second World War several schemes were developed to train RAF pilots and aircrew in the safer skies of the Commonwealth and the (initially neutral) United States. One of these, the British Flying Training School Program, saw the creation of seven pilot schools across the United States. RAF recruits were shipped across the Atlantic, on occasions on the Queen Mary passenger liner, to Canada and then travelled in civilian clothes (whilst the US was still neutral) by train to their respective schools. For these young men this was an incredible adventure that we can’t really imagine in our much smaller world. No. 6 BFTS was based in Ponca City, Oklahoma. Here US civilian staff trained the prospective pilots, initially in PT-17 Steermans. Halfway through the course those that mastered this aircraft would progress to the AT-6 Texan. On successful completion they would gain their wings and return to the UK. I will base my model on one of the aircraft pictured in the excellent book The Royal Airforce in Oklahoma. Probably this one. Edited July 6, 2021 by Pete F 7 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wez Posted May 23, 2021 Share Posted May 23, 2021 Welcome to the GB Pete. I got a delivery of these yesterday, when I can find a moment, I'll get myself to the bench to start on one of mine. Good luck with your build. 1 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RidgeRunner Posted May 23, 2021 Share Posted May 23, 2021 They are like London buses! It’s great to see another of these SH kits being built :), Martin 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete F Posted June 8, 2021 Author Share Posted June 8, 2021 The cockpit is ready for assembly. The fuselage to the rear of the cockpit was cut away to accommodate the new injection canopy. I decided to use the original kit control sticks as they appeared in the closest reference photos that I have to my subject. The PE seatbelts provided are good. Fine detail and just required some buff paint. Here is the cockpit tub assembled and ready to fit. The fit is very good and so far a pleasure to put together. The only negative comment concerns the decal instrument panel. This was quite crude and a far better result was obtained by simply dry brushing with white. 5 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
exdraken Posted June 13, 2021 Share Posted June 13, 2021 Looks great! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete F Posted June 28, 2021 Author Share Posted June 28, 2021 (edited) The main body of the kit is now together and primed with gloss black. I found that the new Special Hobby cockpit canopy rear section was slightly too short even though I followed the cutting diagram exactly. Nothing than a plastic shim wouldn't correct but there was a lot of fine sanding to get it to look okay. As is my rule, nothing gets stuck on yet that can be knocked off (i.e. anything). Vallejo Metal Color Aluminum applied. I am intending to use the decal strips method for the canopy so have sprayed some inkjet decal paper ready to do this. It’s getting close to the wire but I intend to finish it by Saturday. Edited June 28, 2021 by Pete F 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete F Posted July 6, 2021 Author Share Posted July 6, 2021 Finally finished. Here are a couple of pictures and I will take a few more for the gallery page. Not my best work but in the end it was a pleasant build and went together okay. Very light on decals. I had attached a wire to the antenna but its height and the lack of a decent foundation meant it was always pulled over. In the end I gave up. If I was doing this model again I would construct a new one that could be embedded more deeply in the fuselage. The work for the replacement canopy made this kit less suitable for a beginner but was useful in pushing my boundaries. Thanks to all involved in this group build. 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Derek_B Posted July 6, 2021 Share Posted July 6, 2021 Pete, that is very sweet! How do you frame your canopies? That's very clean and well-defined framing there. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete F Posted July 7, 2021 Author Share Posted July 7, 2021 (edited) 9 hours ago, Derek_B said: Pete, that is very sweet! How do you frame your canopies? That's very clean and well-defined framing there. Thanks Derek, I used the decal strip method. I claim no originality for this method - it is fairly well documented elsewhere but for clarity this is my method: I use inkjet decal paper. It is expensive - about £10 for a A4(ish) sheet but lasts a long time as for each kit I cut out a roughly 4cm square (size is dependant on the amount and size of the canopy framing required but this is usual). The canopy must be clear coated (e.g. Future/Pledge) for this to work well. I then airbrush a series of coatings on the paper depending on the inner and outer colours of the frames. In this case it was just two coats of Vallejo Metal Color Aluminium but sometimes there will be a first coat e.g. grey, interior green, before the primary colour so that has a front and back colour. I then usually apply a clear coat by airbrush - I have found that this holds the paint on the paper more securely. Once all the paint has cured the next part requires a fresh blade and a steel rule. I cut fine strips, by eye, from the paper and cut these to size. Then it is a case of applying these to the canopy using various different widths/lengths as appropriate. For straight runs they are easy to measure using a Vernier calliper or similar. For curves it is a bit hit and miss but a sharp blade helps if I overshoot. I did go though a phase of using a cutting machine for this but that was the road to madness. You don't need to soak the strips - just wet with a fine brush is fine. The brush can be used to remove the film and apply. As I go I apply a fine wash of diluted clear coat (roughly 2 pts Future, 1 pt water) to each strip once it is in the correct place. This dries and contracts around the canopy frame shape. Finally when all is done a few touches with the original paint my be required. It's quite a long process and is sort of the opposite of masking but with acrylics I find masking a bit more hit and miss. Edited July 7, 2021 by Pete F Typo Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wez Posted July 7, 2021 Share Posted July 7, 2021 Great end result Pete, well done Your method of dealing with the canopy is effective if, as you say, at the length of being a lengthy process. No wonder pre-cut masks are so popular! Thanks for taking part in this STGB. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Derek_B Posted July 7, 2021 Share Posted July 7, 2021 Marvellous Pete, thanks for the explanation. I tried the decal-strip method on my current build but the strips kept cracking and sitting proud of the framing. Your tips explain how to avoid that! Brilliant! The diluted clear-coat is the killer - thanks! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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