About as green as they come.

[frasier013]

Hi everyone.

 

Thought i'd say hi and explain why i'm here.

I work from home a lot (even before COVID) and I get to watch/listen to a lot of programs etc whilst working. Recently i'd been watching Adam Savage's Tested on YouTube and watched quite a few of his modelling videos which has given me the itch to try and get in to modelling. I don't know if i'm going to be any good or if i'll even stick with it but I really want to try it. Needless to say I have zero experience. I'm 47 now and I did make a couple of model kits when I was a child but that's about it.

 

So if anyone can suggest some basic equipment like brushes, paints or whatever else, to get me started and maybe good place to get my first model from, it would be appreciated. I'm happy to spend a little money on gear to start with, but until I get the bug I don't want to go all out.

 

In advance, i'd just like to say thank you and appreciate all your help and advice

 

Thanks guys.

Dave

[Graham Boak]

You need a sharp knife (Xacto, Swan Morton or similar), at least one needle file (cheap sets are available), and either a bottle of glue which comes with a small brush or something similar (I like the Revell Contacta with a fine tube for applying the glue).  A pair of tweezers is a useful bit not vital extra, as are sanding boards - readily available at any local chemist for nail treatment.  For beginning, get one of the Airfix starter sets which come with some acrylic paints, but you will need at least one fine and one medium brush.  Anything else is an optional extra.  You can get all these and much more from Hannants, but I'm pretty sure Manchester will have a Hobbycraft or a railway model shop somewhere which will stock most if not all of these.  There's always Hattons at Widnes.

 

There's a lot to be said for getting good stuff (brushes, tools etc) early on, but the cheaper stuff will do to get you started and then can be relegated to secondary use when you have a better idea of just what suits you, and you actually need.  It is very easy to end up collecting specialist tools which never get used.  Art shops are a good source of decent brushes, varnishes etc. once you get a bit if a feel for things.  But for beginning, it is more important just to enjoy yourself.  If the hobby gets a grip then you will have plenty of opportunity and options for the more specialist bits.  Don't get too ambitious early on, this can prove expensive and kill enthusiasm.  Let it grow,

[frasier013]

18 minutes ago, Graham Boak said:

You need a sharp knife (Xacto, Swan Morton or similar), at least one needle file (cheap sets are available), and either a bottle of glue which comes with a small brush or something similar (I like the Revell Contacta with a fine tube for applying the glue).  A pair of tweezers is a useful bit not vital extra, as are sanding boards - readily available at any local chemist for nail treatment.  For beginning, get one of the Airfix starter sets which come with some acrylic paints, but you will need at least one fine and one medium brush.  Anything else is an optional extra.  You can get all these and much more from Hannants, but I'm pretty sure Manchester will have a Hobbycraft or a railway model shop somewhere which will stock most if not all of these.  There's always Hattons at Widnes.

 

There's a lot to be said for getting good stuff (brushes, tools etc) early on, but the cheaper stuff will do to get you started and then can be relegated to secondary use when you have a better idea of just what suits you, and you actually need.  It is very easy to end up collecting specialist tools which never get used.  Art shops are a good source of decent brushes, varnishes etc. once you get a bit if a feel for things.  But for beginning, it is more important just to enjoy yourself.  If the hobby gets a grip then you will have plenty of opportunity and options for the more specialist bits.  Don't get too ambitious early on, this can prove expensive and kill enthusiasm.  Let it grow,

Top man, thank you.

I'm more than happy to spend a little on getting decent gear to start off with. I just meant I didn't want to go all out and buy everything to start with.

[TonyW]

Graham covers it pretty well there, all sound advice.

 

I'll add a few thoughts to the list.

 

Buy a kit you like rather than anything just to get going. Probably the most important decision to make really.

Try to get a recently made kit, rather than a very old moulding that might disappoint a bit. Any recent Airfix release would be a good starter. They go together well and look the part once done. There are a few really old kits in their range though, so watch out for them. 

Maybe go for a larger scale model, 1.48 rather than 1.72 for instance. Bigger bits are easier to fit and paint initially and there's usually a few more parts to practice on.

 

Have fun.

 

Tony.

 

[spruecutter96]

Hi, Dave. 

 

Welcome to the hobby.

 

First of all, I would say don't get discouraged if your first efforts don't come out as you are expecting. I get the impression that some modellers get really put off when their early models don't look professionally made. The fact is, unless you have huge amounts of natural talent (very rare), your earlier models are going to be pretty "basic" - but if you learn something from every one, then they are definitely NOT wasted effort.   

 

Like a lot of hobbies, model-making has to be learnt over a number of years. Read books, watch Youtube videos (there's dozens), peruse Britmodeller and similar sites, maybe join a modelling-club (when they can get back together!), make models and learn the craft. It is very much a learning process (to state the really bleeding obvious!). 

 

I'm assuming you aren't going straight in to buying an airbrush (wouldn't recommend it when you're starting out, maybe in a year or two). When buying paint-brushes, I'd recommend buying the most expensive you can afford. The real sable-hair brushes aren't cheap, but they are worth every penny. The paint will go on smoother with a better brush. The 2 quid brushes you get in model-shops are only really good for stirring your paint, to be honest. For applying paint, I would avoid them.  

 

When it comes to paint, ALWAYS use the maker's preferred thinners and NEVER go straight from the bottle to the model. Using a piece of plastic card or similar, place a lump of paint on the card and work it with a paint-brush until it's the right consistency (add more thinner now, if required). The paint will lay down on the kit much better if you use this method (it should pretty much eliminate visible brush-strokes).  

 

As for types of paint, I use a lot of acrylics, which go on well once they've been thinned a little, but they really need a primer-coat to "grip" on to. They have a reputation for not being very resilient (when compared to enamels), but I think that's occurred because folks use them without putting a primer on first. You can buy good primers in aerosol cans at Halfords or similar. They're intended for car re-spraying, but also work on models. Some folks sand the primer lightly, for a smoother finish - I've never bothered. 

 

The last thing with paint..... don't be impatient. Some types of paint let off vapours as they dry - these gases have to be fully absent before you add new paint. If you don't leave enough time between coats, it can cause problems. 48 hours is usually adequate, but 5 or 6 days will make sure that the paint is fully cured. For this reason, some folks will work on two or more models at a time. 

 

Good luck in picking up the hobby, my friend. If you really get into it, it's an amazingly absorbing past-time.

 

Chris.  

[spruecutter96]

Just one more thing - get some thin model-making cement. Tamiya's glue is very good, but I don't like their Extra Thin variety all that much. Don't bother with the really thick stuff that comes in a tube. The tube glue is WAY too thick and cumbersome for most model-making and when it starts to ooze out between joins, it can make a very big mess. The thin model-cement is easy to control and just a lot "better".  Just use the brush that's moulded in to the cap to apply. 

 

Cheers. 

 

Chris. 

[frasier013]

Appreciating the advice guys

[ckw]

1 hour ago, spruecutter96 said:

on't bother with the really thick stuff that comes in a tube

I'm going to disagree with that. Tube glue does have it's uses. The key point is that it is slower drying, which can be very useful when attaching parts which may take a bit of time to get aligned (e.g, landing gear struts). Liquid cement dries off more quickly.

But I wouldn't apply direct from the tube - I squirt it into a dish then use a toothpick to apply the correct amount.

 

There are many possible glues you can use - each works best for certain things but may be used elsewhere in a pinch. In my collection (bought as required) I currently have:

 

Tamiya liquid thin (used to run along plastic seams)

Tube polystyrene (used where quick drying can be an issue)

White glue (wood glue or Krystal Klear) where a transparent, non-reactive bond is needed (tranparent parts, rigging)

Superglue thin liquid

Superglue thick (more slow drying than the instant thin stuff)

2 part expoxy (slow drying strong bonds)

 

Note that many kits are multimedia and contain metal and resin parts - polystyrene glue won't work for these.

 

Cheers

 

Colin

[Graham Boak]

me again..  One thing not mentioned is fillers.  Everyone has their own favourite likes and hates but rarely agree on which or why.  For a first few models just buy whatever you see (eg Revell, Humbrol) and learn why people get so uptight about them!  They're good enough for learning techniques and when handled properly do fine.  Just don't slaver them on massively, as in some examples on this board.  Place them where they are needed and avoid much landing outside the place they are needed.  Then see what people say are good and bad points of different fillers and understand why.  Cocktail sticks are useful for applying fillers where and when required, plus other modelling uses.

 

I would agree that if you want to get good brushes, then do so.  They will always have other uses outside of hobbies.  I would also recommend a PVA-based white glue, a quality one that dries clear.  Using ordinary glues can result in permanent damage to transparent parts, so use white glues to cement transparencies together or to other parts.  because they are reasonably thick and easily removed with water ( or spit) they are also useful for gap-filling between transparency parts and others.  They can be used as a gap filler elsewhere.

 

However I would not recommend getting a multi-media kit requiring superglues as a starter.  Similarly a vacform or resin, even if they are the one type of aircraft you always wanted (otherwise good advice).  Not that you need ten years experience or anything like that but you certainly will do better with some. 

 

As a life-long 1/72 modeller I would not recommend 1/48 or larger kits for the reasons given above.  Nothing wrong with them, lots of them are truly excellent, but those suitable for beginners tend to be older and simpler.   A modern toolmaker will produce parts as small as the limits of this tooling (do not buy a 1/700 Flyhawk ship kit, beautiful as they are, as a starter!) so the smallest part of a 1/48 kit will be every bit as small as the smallest part of a 1/72, but in the better kits there'll be many more of them.  They are also more expensive, and for your first models keep it cheap.  You might want to bin at least one of your early attempts.

 

After the first few projects, look wider and try some of the products mentioned here.  Pay more attention when people dislike something (whatever it is) if they give reasons as this is more likely to be helpful than wide-eyed wonder.  But then some peoples' hates are another person's loves.   You can then start worrying about references...

 

 

[Corsairfoxfouruncle]

Hello Dave  …   from the windy city of Chicago, Ive been building since 1979 and am mostly aircraft myself. These guys have given you some good answers already, but I will repeat and add. Patience with this as it is a learning curve. DO NOT build to anyone elses standards, build only for yourself. Youtube and Adam Savage are great sources but they've probably been building since they were kids. It is something attainable but it will take time. Ive been at it since 79 and I think Im close to happy but not quite there yet. 
 

Dennis

[spruecutter96]

"Build to please yourself" is probably the best, single bit of advice on here. If you think you've made a great job of your latest build, then that's about good as it ever gets.

 

While it's great to aspire to emulate the work of others, there will ALWAYS be modellers who can produce stunning work, apparently with very little effort on their part (I'm sure that the exact opposite is - in fact - true).

 

Above all else, enjoy what you build, my friend! There are more subjects, more kits and more variations floating around out there than will ever get built, but we can look to the stars, can't we?

 

Chris. 

 

 

[jackroadkill]

Amazon are doing Airfix's lovely little mk1 Hurricane kit for something insane like £4.46 at the moment - that might be a good place to start.

 

Wherever you start, be warned - it's a slippery slope!

[ArnoldAmbrose]

Gidday Dave, welcome aboard. I won't give you advice on what kits, equipment and tools to buy as I'd only be repeating what's been said above. But what Chris Spruecutter says immediately above covers the first two of three rules of modeling that I follow:-

1. Have fun and enjoy it.

2. Build to your own standard, not others. Learn from others though to improve.

3. Repeat rules 1 & 2. 🙂

 

And as for looking to the stars, I often see stars, but usually if I've walked into something. 😁   Regards, Jeff.

[frasier013]

Well i've ordered my first two kits.

https://smile.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B078Y7G6TN/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

 

And I suspect this one might be a little more advanced but i'll give it a go...

https://smile.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00TQOKR0Y/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

 

Going to do some homework on brushes and paint etc.

[Nigel Bunker]

Hello Dave

 

Just a few things to note - firstly your builds will improve over time so don't be looking for perfection with your first builds. I'd suggest starting with the Spitfire, as it's a fairly simple kit.

 

Secondly, as lockdown lifts, model clubs are starting up again. they are a great place to meet other modellers face to face and to get good advice. I can't recommend any clubs in your area personally but I note there is an IPMS Manchester branch which might be a starting place.

 

lastly, remember that no question is too daft to ask on Britmodeller - just take a look around the forums and see.

 

Good luck

 

Nigel

[frasier013]

What is the difference between cement and glue? Or are they the same thing? I already have some Contacta Professional, would this be good enough for Airfix models?

Also, what are fillers? Are they what they sound like... for filling gaps in models? I wasn't sure if this was just another term for a glue? Any recommendations?

[ArnoldAmbrose]

Gidday, as far as I know cement and glue are the same (I think). It could depend on the name the manufacturer places on the tube/bottle. Hopefully others will confirm if I'm correct, or enlighten me if I'm wrong.

     Fillers are exactly that, for filling gaps in a model. There are a number of types. I'm rather basic in my methods and builds. I mainly use Tamiya putty or liquid paper. If I want some strength as well I often use 5-minute Araldyte epoxy glue as a filler. Again, hopefully others will enlarge on this soon. HTH. Regards, Jeff.

[spruecutter96]

I think that "cement" is what our American friends tend to call glue. 

 

Chris. 

[Corsairfoxfouruncle]

2 hours ago, spruecutter96 said:

I think that "cement" is what our American friends tend to call glue. 

 

Chris. 

I call it glue and been American since I can remember ? 😉 I think that its a manufacturer thing. But Ive also seen “Tube” Glue, and “Liquid” Cement so who knows really ? 

[frasier013]

Okay, i've been on YouTube and seen the difference a spray gun makes and the perfectionist in me wants to get one already! I know my spraying wouldn't be up to the same standard but I really want one 🤪. I don't think it's something I will invest in just yet. Think I should get a few models under my belt first. I imagine you need more than just a spray gun though? Do you need a compressor, needle selection, cleaners etc?

[Corsairfoxfouruncle]

11 hours ago, frasier013 said:

Okay, i've been on YouTube and seen the difference a spray gun makes and the perfectionist in me wants to get one already! I know my spraying wouldn't be up to the same standard but I really want one 🤪. I don't think it's something I will invest in just yet. Think I should get a few models under my belt first. I imagine you need more than just a spray gun though? Do you need a compressor, needle selection, cleaners etc?

Wise choice, it is an investment and an incredibly steep learning curve. Yes on the compressor, as for needle sizes well that depends. I have 3 Airbrushes each with a different size needle, Though I only really use two as the third is set up for big jobs. I found a needle of .35 will use just about any kind of paint and keep going. My Iwata Neo is that for me. The Iwata HP-B+ .2 needle is strictly for Lacquer and some Enamel. All acrylics go through the Neo. Back to the learning curve, it will take you a bit to get used to consistency in the paint and pressure from the compressor. Until then you will have some frustration. But as with anything please ask the only bad question is the one not asked. 
 

Dennis

[Eric Mc]

My advice for starters in the hobby is "learn to walk before you can run".

 

The newish 1/72 Airfix Spitfire is not a bad kit to start with. 

 

I am not a fan of the paints supplied with Airfix starter kits.

[Col Walter E Kurtz]

Welcome and I'd just like to add my experience to help you also.

I found the Tamiya kits in 1:48 scale a great place to start. The scale is easy to handle and see what you are doing and the kits are superbly engineered.

i use a primer first my fav is Vallejo grey Primer. You can brush this on or airbrush it . 

Dont be afraid to make your first mess and absolutely enjoy it.. make every model for yourself and not the opinoins of others.

You will learn what works for you in time  and you can buy an expensive airbrush for example later on.  Get a good supply of toothpicks or cocktail sticks and cheap cotton buds.. I use a lot of both when making a model!

 

kind Regards, Andy

[ddw867]

Hello,

Just thought I'd provide a link to a site with a free brush painting resource to help new modelers, or people like me getting back into the hobby after a long break.

https://www.modelairplanebuilding.com/brush-paint-ebook.html

 

Hope this helps, they also have an ebook for airbrushing (not free though)

 

p.s. admins please feel free to delete this if I've violated any taboos, certainly not my intention, just trying to be helpful is all

[Bullbasket]

Just one point that you may or may not have realised from posts regarding glues. Both tube cement and thin liquid cement work in the same way, but as has been said, the time they take varies. I use MEK (which some people don't like). It works well, so long as you adhere (no pun intended) to common sense in it's use. It's applied by holding two parts together and applying with a thin paint brush to the joint between the two parts. Capillary action draws the liquid between the parts and melts the two surfaces, so welding them together. There are several brands of thin liquid cement, but MEK can be purchased from plumber's suppliers in bulk, for a lot less.

If you do use "cement", something such as Contacta is good, as it has a very thin steel tube, so that you can apply it just where you want it.

HTH's.

 

John.