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Gallery Models UH-34D Seahorse 1/48 scale Operation deep Freeze


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I spent 7 1/2 years working on RAF Wessex 2, If I remember correctly the piece you call the lower leg is called the radius arm,and was interchangeable,you had Westland and Sikorsky,and you could fit either,but not mix,either 2 x Westland,or 2 x Sikorsky.

Maybe Pete in Lincs or Hendie  may know more

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Looking at the box art (ok, I know it’s risky using that as a reference!) I would say it’s the bent leg or radius arm you need. Photos of the real machine would help if any are out there in Googleland. You’re doing a fine job so far, look forward to more updates!

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Thank you all for great advice 

I  glue the front end and clamped , then went to work . I just got home the clamps pop off , man I got to clean and re glue 

Rick 

 

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The bottom fuselage I had little gap . I insert plastic card .

Rick 

 

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Worked on the front nose . I applied liquid plastic glue . Smooth that out , then applied Tamiya putty

 

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On 6/4/2021 at 4:21 AM, Plasticbasher said:

Photos of the real machine would help if any are out there in Googleland.

The reference photo that Dennis @Corsairfoxfouruncle linked to is the same machine as depicted in the box art, so bent lower leg. I've a Hobby Boss kit & max decals to do the same machine at some stage.

Steve.

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Ok, I've just looked on the intergoogle. The H-34 seems to have had the radius arm undercarriage. The radius arm set up was the first fitted to the H-34 series. Problems with ground resonance, where the aircraft was in danger of toppling over if the pilot reacted slowly and this lead to the fitting of the 'A frame' type, which gave a wider track. The US seem to use the start up with the rotorbreak off, allowing the rotorblades to wind up with increasing engine revs. I could be wrong as the airframe served with ll four services in the US and each may have had it's own system of start up.

In UK service with the Wessex we used to start up with the rotor break on. Only when the engine/engines were up to speed were the rotors engaged. Yes there was still a chance of ground resonance but if the pressures in the main oleo legs were correctly maintained the problem did not usually occur.

Italeri on their painting guide, show the Operation Deep Freeze as depicted with the A frame u/c set up. I don't have the Gallery kit with these markings, so can't comment on the accuracy there.

 

Hope the above has been of use to some of you?

 

Colin

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Hello Rick,

What's not to love ??

Bees for honey and a pretty good looking USN helo !!

Congrats for the build and painting....

Now, I'll put this UH 34 on my buy list...

I already have the Revell one waiting  in the stash...

May I take a stool at the bar and watch over your shoulder ?

Sincerely.

CC

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On 6/8/2021 at 1:54 AM, heloman1 said:

 

 if the pressures in the main oleo legs were correctly maintained the problem did not usually occur.

 

4 fingers extension if I remember correctly.

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looking good. Are you doing the Orange version?

 

Just now, shark 64 said:

looking good. Are you doing the Orange version? I will one as well but in 1/32

 

 

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Great recovery on a oops moment. The gremlins have struck. Has come together well. I'll look fantastic in arctic colors.

 

All The Best,

Ron VanDerwarker

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6 hours ago, infofrog said:

Worked on the front nose and add PE

Rick  

 

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the nose is two separate doors that open to access the engine, Did u putty the nose has one piece?

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17 hours ago, shark 64 said:

the nose is two separate doors that open to access the engine, Did u putty the nose has one piece?yes 

Yes I did putty them together. 
I guess I need to put panel line in the middle

rick

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Shark 64  quoted 

the nose is two separate doors that open to access the engine, Did u putty the nose has one piece?

Yes he is correct . I did  not know this . I seen a good photo on the nose . 

Since i glued and filled the line , I re scribed a panel line 

 I hope this looks the part . 

Thanks Shark 64 

Rick 

 

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